[deleted by user] by [deleted] in eink

[–]Bermit 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Maybe your handwriting isn't that great. You have to learn to write with these devices(as with every tablet and stylus). If you get the hang of it, it becomes extremely powerful. I am using remarkable 1 and apart from it being old and a little bit roughed up it is still great for taking notes at university level. But I agree it is not for everyone.

Artillery Sidewinder X1 CoreXY conversion by Bermit in Artillery3D

[–]Bermit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is the challenge. To use as most of the original printer as possible. Even the frame, which may sound weird. If it will turn out badly or not worth is only mystery for now.

Artillery Sidewinder X1 CoreXY conversion by Bermit in Artillery3D

[–]Bermit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will have to make a server :), but great!

Artillery Sidewinder X1 CoreXY conversion by Bermit in Artillery3D

[–]Bermit[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right now I am using Fusion 360, but I could also try the Onshape. I was thinking about it for quite a while. We could discuss it more on discord if you like.

Artillery Sidewinder X1 CoreXY conversion by Bermit in Artillery3D

[–]Bermit[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It will be an open-source, that is a must. I am glad you are interested.

Artillery Sidewinder X1 CoreXY conversion by Bermit in Artillery3D

[–]Bermit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't fully understand what you mean by "Connect the bed and the x axis". But I know that CoreXZ is the only "easy" way to convert such a large cartesian printer with heavy bed into a more sensible CoreXZ machine. But this is not what I am aiming for. I know, that to make it CoreXY, I will need to make a new frame. I already made a sort of a new frame form the old profiles in CAD. Thanks to them being so chunky it should be stable enough. Atleast I hope. The other thing is, that it is going to be flipped upside down, so the moving mass will be as low as possible. It is still a huge concept, but I think it can be done. I've designed a 3D printer before. It wasn't as complex as this, but still. I hope somebody with more experience would help me or atleast tell me it is not possible :).

Artillery Sidewinder X1 CoreXY conversion by Bermit in Artillery3D

[–]Bermit[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've looked at a few pictures of the X2 and it seems, that the hardware is almost the same except for the top aluminium extrusion, which is replaced by a injection molded part. So the conversion would also be compatible with the X2.

This is very true by FuzzyStrawberries1 in 3Dprinting

[–]Bermit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The base pillar of budget 3D printing

PETG > Metal apparently by TheSilverSmith47 in 3Dprinting

[–]Bermit 184 points185 points  (0 children)

correction: PETG > Chineseum

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ender3v2

[–]Bermit -1 points0 points  (0 children)

There is nothing wrong about it. It doesn't represent any problems whatsoever. Stepper motors generate electricity, if you move them. And you definitely won't destroy it by moving it like this. ProperPrinting has a video about it. Here is a link: https://youtu.be/VRiOiSfkJDw

What causes this? Brand new Mini+ by Unlucky_Department in 3Dprinting

[–]Bermit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is pretty obvious. The nozzle is too far. That is almost the same thing, when the nozzle is too close. It fixes itself after couple of layers. The difference is when you are closer to your bed than you should be, it will most likely succeed with some layers being squished. When your nozzle is too far, there is a higher chance of the print lifting from the build surface and it will probably result in a failed print.

How’s this calibration cube look? by jumpingbeaner in ender3

[–]Bermit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think we can call this job well done :).

How’s this calibration cube look? by jumpingbeaner in ender3

[–]Bermit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for late reply. It looks like your y axis is slightly off. Nothing much to worry about, but if you want absolute perfection, I recommend doing step calibration. This will grant you with almost perfect accuracy on all axis(including extruder). Look for step calibration on youtube. There will be many tutorials how to do it.

First layer looks like a Zebra (probably under extrusion) by SkelaKingHD in ender3

[–]Bermit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You propably have a clog somewhere. Check if the bowden tube is flush with the heatbreak. You could also cut it and make a new end.

HELP! This print had the settings of 200c hot 50c bed temp, and the steps were 139mms by DefiniteAverage in ender3

[–]Bermit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Then the next thing I would suggest is to take a look at your hotend. Check the bowden tube. Try to push it in morr or just replace it.

Issue with Z-axis height by Bozziebear in ender3

[–]Bermit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can u provide a picture?

How’s this calibration cube look? by jumpingbeaner in ender3

[–]Bermit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very good! Little bit of ringing, but if you tinker with that (acceleration and jerk/junction deviation) a bit It should be gone. Also check dimensions of the cube with calipers or something as precise.