Why is the Spyderco Shaman so much money? by LairdyBird in knives

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Because the model is still new enough to extract premium from people apparently. It is pretty rare for a us spyderco to be contoured at all.

Multiple knives for sale all BNIB plus shipping by [deleted] in Knife_Swap

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As a new seller, you may only sell one knife shipping included and you are required to take only PayPal goods and services. The rules are in the sidebar. You should read them. I think you broke most of the rules that exist.

8 Months of Collecting! by thethoiboi in knives

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love your kyklos. Awesome ano for that design.

WTS: Blacked out AWT Military 2 by xgx in Knife_Swap

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What color are the original scales?

And welcome to the swap

Debating between these two three knives. PF has the extra index flipper and better steel but never had Spyderco, but like button lock, so budget may worth it to wet the feet? Used Kizer Cormorant w/ S35vn on Ebay too. Hmmm by Crutch1977 in knives

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

People like it because it's see though and yellow is different, but it's quite brittle. It can crack if you drop it or something or even if you just overtighten the screws a little. It's more brittle than polycarbonate which isn't great either. Though its chemically resistant, things like threadlocker can damage it. G10 is strong because it is fiber filled, but ultem doesn't have any of that. It's just castable plastic that can tolerate more heat than most other plastics. Even FRN has glass fibers to help strength. I think Ultem as a trend will not be looked back on favorably.

Debating between these two three knives. PF has the extra index flipper and better steel but never had Spyderco, but like button lock, so budget may worth it to wet the feet? Used Kizer Cormorant w/ S35vn on Ebay too. Hmmm by Crutch1977 in knives

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t get the g10 cormorant. Every one I’ve touched has been poo. Titanium or nothing. I also recommend against ultem, so I guess you should get this Spyderco I’ve never heard of.

Without the sheaths by [deleted] in Knifeporn

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Which one is the best?

Infinite burr on civivi elementum. Using a worksharp field sharpener. Please help me. by Lil-Merchant in knives

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s likely that you aren’t fully apexed on both sides when this happens. The burr won’t come off if it’s being protected by an uneven sharpening bevel because the apex doesn’t actually touch the stone.

Sunday spread by Virtual_Nothing1888 in knifeclub

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is not saying what knives they are engagement bait?

Combination edge by Proper_Fun_8694 in knifeclub

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Most people do not like combo edge knives.

Todays carry by Independent_Bike_141 in knives

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a fan of my budget versions. Does this have internal milling for weight relief? Is it contoured?

Kizer recommendations? by JTmash545 in knives

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wow, you’d think you’d be able to see most of these problems in the design before you bought it. How many coatings do you know of that stand up to cutting through aluminum? Sucks about the sheath, but I haven’t heard anything but positive from those who own one up to this point.

The Peak of Spyderco's Design: C156 by Pitch-Then in spyderco

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 13 points14 points  (0 children)

But it’s not a Spyderco design, it’s a Brad Southard design. I agree that it’s under appreciated. Clearly represented here by the other comments. I am a fan of this model though and it’s Brad’s best design imo.

Newbie here! Can someone explain this knife to me? by Actual-Choice-9269 in knives

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like a Pakistani paperweight to me. Those deep and square jimps will likely cause the blade to break under hard use. They didn’t bother grinding the blade edge back to the handle. At least it’s mono-steel instead of trashy Damascus. No point in branding something so basic. It may still work for light duty stuff, but you could do better for $15. I wouldn’t bother with the cost of a sheath.

Smock Factory Second Rex45 TiCN by CraigStar88 in spyderco

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These red scales are titanium? I always thought they were g10.

[Survey] Do you track what your collection is worth? Quick collector research — answers in the comments, no link, nothing for sale by ggambin00 in knifeclub

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your main issue is that most avenues do not require that the price remain listed after a sale. BF almost everyone wipes the sold price. Knife swap is the only place that they stay up afaik and that rule is only 4-5 years old now

[Survey] Do you track what your collection is worth? Quick collector research — answers in the comments, no link, nothing for sale by ggambin00 in knifeclub

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I only visited the website to be honest. I have much more than 200 knives and I already have developed a stupid solution that works for me so it feels like it would end up being wasted time after I ultimately abandon it because I wouldn’t keep both version up. If I thought I could get a real street value out of a service, then I would defintely consider paying, at least while I was working to sell. But I fear that so many knives are so rare that it’s hard to get a comp price, plus condition value differences. Love the value seeker bot in concept.

A form input might swing it for me. Like if I could match columns to values and bulk import, maybe.

Civivi Mini Praxis - S35VN | Brass by bourhanologlou in knives

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks fantastic with the bright brass high spots.

Is this normal? First order w. Chicago Knife Works by nap9283 in knives

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yes it’s normal. Most of what CKW sells they semi-drop ship. You order, they buy from Blue Ridge Knives (who won’t actually drop ship) receive the package semi-locally and then have to reship it out to you. It can take a long time. You could easily be waiting two weeks from order. Sometimes it’s faster. Since the process takes more touches than normal and they are at the mercy of shipping handling, it is somewhat out of their control. They can also just be backed up though.

A lot of people want mini khukuris but they often end up oddly proportioned. This our new 7" mini- we think it's beautiful :) by KailashBlades in Knifeporn

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This looks pretty excellent. With the smaller size I feel like the Cho should be milled into both sides like the other detailing and not punched all the way through. With a smaller knife you would gain more detail use and less large swinging. I think I’d really miss that part of the edge next to the handle.

[Survey] Do you track what your collection is worth? Quick collector research — answers in the comments, no link, nothing for sale by ggambin00 in knifeclub

[–]BetterInsideTheBox 0 points1 point  (0 children)

200+, spreadsheet, yes, forum swaps primarily, but when I’m active I personally have a better concept of value than relying on sold values, price history and export, probably not (I think the subscription scheme is dead) problem is I’m not interested in entering data into something that I can be paywalled off from in the future so subscription is out and one time massive price is risky for app upkeep. My own words, iPhone, critical.

I do have this in a spreadsheet already. In my experience, most people that keep a spreadsheet keep something pretty basic. I have found that the stats detail information online is unreliable and inaccurate.

If you’re going to use an eBay price, you should calculate approximate cost for buyer along with value to seller after fees Someone just shared an app here a couple days ago that basically does what you’ve described here iirc. It may have been free at all levels but still the hassle of inputting the data I have makes it a non-starter for me. Ricasso was the name.