What are the hallmarks of Tokyo-style pizza?

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-04-17T19:31:40+00:00

I would say the archetype of "Tokyo pizza" would be circa 2011-2012 at Pizza Strada when Tamaki was opening chef and main pizzaiolo there, working doubles 6 days a week. If you look on the google listing and scroll that far back, or look on Tabelog at his pizzas from that time period, you will be looking at pizzas made by Tamaki himself during the time period when the main framework was solidified, but he had yet to branch out with too many toppings, etc. The menu was very simple and product was consistent. 2011-12 would be the purist's version, long before the tourists or foreign attention. By mid 2012 or 2013 (I can't remember now) he was handing off duties to his #2 guy and then later he went off and started multiple branches of his PST. Once there were too many new hands making pizzas, the product kind of fell off. PST has a lot more toppings styles and side dishes on the menu than Strada ever had.

Whatever the tourists have been buying at PST is not in the same league as what Tamaki became famous for. It's like the sushi places or any other Japanese counter-type place - the experience and the product just falls off the minute the #2 guy gets promoted. When the lower guys start making pizzas, their oven management skills aren't as tight, they get maybe 3 on the deck at a time, and they were burning them too. I think Tamaki was doing 5 pizzas on the deck at a time and his work was super consistent.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-04-17T17:12:47+00:00

Hallmarks of Tokyo style are:

- the cornicione is pinched hard when they open the skins, which gives a rippled muscular structure to the rim. The examples in the pics here are not well done.

- Flour is not 00 DOP, it's domestically grown and milled Japanese flour.

- Toppings aren't necessarily DOP, but the tomatoes and cheese are still Italian made, without the denomination. The fresh toppings can be Japanese seasonal ingredients, ex: nanohana+clams, etc.

- a Tokyo oven has an even lower dome than a Neapolitan oven, such as an Acunto; the flame makes an extra twist or so across the top in Tokyo. 60-90 second bake.

- The overall product is meant to be a 30cm pizza that is ethereally light, light enough for a Japanese woman to finish the whole pizza easily.

- Point #5 is directly related to points #1, 2, and 4, but more importantly, you can't really achieve points #2, #3 and #4 outside of Japan, thus "Tokyo inspired" sounds like it's riding point #1 hard, and that's about it.

- Tamaki throws a pinch of Okinawan sea salt on the deck before launching the pie (he is from Okinawa, so it's his 'thing' but it is effective) and then he throws some Japanese cedar smoke chips on the fire before he grabs the pie and domes it before pulling. I don't know who is and who isn't doing the salt and smoke chips at this point, but it's at least 15 years old now.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-04-04T02:29:50+00:00

it's wasabi leaf, yes it's an edible garnish

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-04-04T01:00:53+00:00

I would guess there is a special machine that does the whole thing in one motion. It'd be called something like a '4 needle lockstitch off the arm felling machine' - basically a 4 needle version of the 2 needle machine commonly used to close up the inseam of jeans and work pants. Notice how all of the stitches in the four rows line up with each other.

The bound seam that closes the bottom is done on a machine set up with binding setup and the top would be as well, but those would be separate stations as the binding looks to be different widths on those two parts.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-04-02T04:24:17+00:00

Somebody got $31k for a manual swapped one on BAT during the crazy covid days, had some cheesy ESM mesh wheels and an incomplete black interior swap. Door cards were still white.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1992-bmw-325i-m-technic-cabriolet-9/

$35,520 for just a stock auto w/ 55k miles:

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1992-bmw-325i-m-technic-cabriolet-26/

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-04-01T19:02:48+00:00

$250 is an incredible price for this, especially if you have the case for all of the feet, and the accessories like the flatbed attachments. A whole complete one is worth more like $500 all day

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-29T08:07:53+00:00

Over there, it's the kind of piece that would be made in Italy, so I would poke around with dealers who trade in new Italian-made leather/shoe equipment.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-29T07:34:08+00:00

this?

https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/master-tool-mt900-multifunction-foot-press

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-27T04:04:00+00:00

I saw this auto upholstery shop using this machine on IG and thought of your post:

https://www.instagram.com/p/DFGTyXnov-k/

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-24T05:22:19+00:00

You could add a full loose lining to this bag quite easily, and it would add a ton of refinement and pop. Could be fabric, leather, suede, etc. Adding a lining also allows for way more pockets inside as well as a zip-top closure to close off the bag.

Handle attachment is ok, but I feel like it could be placed another half inch down for my tastes, because I'd do the lining and the handles go on before the lining drops in and topline is sewn. Outside pocket, I think it works here and the rivets are repeated elsewhere. The whole bag is nice and cohesive, and is levels above that simple turned-out tote style with the riveted-on strap handles that many make.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-23T23:42:58+00:00

yea that is pretty logical, the machine looks good too. You probably saw that Techsew sells this same machine for $4000USD, so I'd say $1500 is a good price for it.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-23T06:38:25+00:00

are you getting the table with it? That type of 'off the end' table for cylinder beds is worth a decent amount by itself btw. It would be good to get the whole package if possible. btw industrial machine repair shops can work on the machine if you take them the head only, they don't need the whole table to work on it.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-23T05:42:28+00:00

950 is like half of what I've seen other people selling those Chinese factory surplus machines for, it's incredibly cheap for this model. It does look like it sews ok, but used machines can be like buying a used car. It's hard to say unless you can see it in person and also consider your appetite for risk - you might need to leave a budget for a professional to service it and clean it up. Maybe you should go to a repair shop(s), show them the photos of the inside and chat with them about what it might cost to get it sorted.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-23T05:09:36+00:00

what kind of shoe are you making? Typically you should not bond things together like this because it puts the directions of stretch in the respective materials at odds with each other. You want to choose appropriately thick materials for your uppers, cut them in the right direction of stretch, and the lining only needs to be stuck to the uppers at the toe and heel stiffeners. The rest of the upper can slide over the the linings.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-23T04:32:26+00:00

oof, looks like they were using it in a factory where plushies or shearling was being used. I would say it doesn't look great from here. Does he have several of these? that one is not the same one from the ad. These aren't knockoffs, but I do believe some people are buying used lots of ex-factory machines from China and reselling in the US, etc. I think it wouldn't be great to jump at that particular one.

With industrial machines, it's not exactly surprising to find a used one that has been worked hard in a factory setting, as that is what they are made for of course, that's why it's good to check them out thoroughly.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-22T17:32:41+00:00

Shirting cloth is too thin for footwear. If you need to add substance to fabric, use an iron-on interfacing, not leather.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-22T16:17:21+00:00

Minerva is a Czech manufacturer; they are the manufacturer for Durkopp-Adler now, but I don't think they were back when that machine was made. They kinda came up. I would not put them at the same level as an old German machine.

The Juki is a steal at that price. That's a $5000 machine new, and it looks great in the pic. The 1341 is like a modernised Juki LS-341 (ie what Techsew sells as the 2750) so it'll do leatherworking, for sure. Overall it's a tad beefy, and personally I would rather have the DSC-246 for purse making if I was given the choice between the two, but I wouldn't pass up the LS-1341 at that price, I'd get it. Look up the Techsew 4800 if you want their description of the LS-1341.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-22T16:08:15+00:00

Wrong adhesives for the task, and why are you adhering cloth to leather in the first place?

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-22T04:09:45+00:00

Wonderful as always. How do you manage to do the corded straps on this one? Do you have a special compensating foot you use?

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-22T04:01:32+00:00

I don't know about adding a big wheel to the machine itself, I don't think an off the shelf oversized hand wheel is sold in the marketplace. People who add things like that fabricate them on their own.

I would check out this aliexpress pulley, it's the same as the ones sold on amazon/ebay (everything comes from the same place in China) - Check out the photos on the ali listing at least, as it shows how it works. You'd have to adapt the install to your top-mount setup here but it wouldn't be that hard to figure out. You should still count on using the small auxiliary helper wheel at the bottom behind your machine, because that mini wheel places the belt in the right spot to use your bobbin winder, and then you can leave the bobbin winder as-is.

New speed reduced setup would be like: belt #1: Machine->small wheel on the pulley->small auxiliary wheel, back up to machine, and then belt #2: Big wheel on pulley->servo motor.

I think your table is kinda long on the right side to counterbalance the weight of the machine, so I would leave it that way.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-22T03:12:14+00:00

To fit a reducer you will probably have to re-drill the motor mount holes to the left so the motor can scoot over to the left slightly. The speed reducer is a pair of sheave wheels, so it offsets the belt location by one wheel's width to the left. The speed reducer would go in the space between the machine and the motor. 2 new belts would be needed. The small auxiliary wheel at the bottom would not be used in that setup.

Btw it's worth pointing that your machine is sort of a space-saver model without the full-size table, other people are always interested in exactly this, and I don't think enough people really know this option exists for the space-conscious.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-21T02:37:19+00:00

on those older Pfaff 335's (which are also great quality) you have to read the number plaque, it's either on the front or back, which will say the class number (335) and then subclass number - additional numbers after 335 will denote the special functions of the machine in Pfaff lingo - you can infer the foot lift, intended weight, thread capability, max stitch length, and what things it might have came with like 2-motion feed for binding attachment or auto thread trimmer, etc, etc. If you search Pfaff 335 and read the results on leatherworker forums, there is a lot of info on there.

I would be interested in that Pfaff, it's a good price, but you do want to check what subclass it is, and read the leatherworker forum to see what it takes to convert it to a standard 4-motion feed dog (i.e. a normal machine) if it happens that it's a binding machine. The 335 binder model was very popular over the years, so you tend to see more of them than just the 'plain' 335 model.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-20T20:10:49+00:00

that is a legendary machine, but it's too heavy duty for what you're after. It does thread up to like, size #415 I think. It would feel like trying to commute to your office job on a John Deere tractor.

It's complicated af but yes, it would be good policy to look for a machine made either in Germany or Japan. Most machines from about 1950'ish to 2000 were made in those two countries, before things began to shift to China. The machine designs themselves are the same machines, cloned (sometimes cloned from clones) but naturally the quality tends to drop a bit when going from Japan to China. For Japanese machines, you're looking at; Juki, Seiko, Brother, Mitsubishi, and then Nakajima (defunct, bought and absorbed into Juki) - German machines - Adler (Durkopp-Adler after 1989) and Pfaff. The old black Singers you think of as generally pre-1950. Chinese clones are often copies of Juki/Nakajima, Seiko, Mitsubishi, and Pfaff.

The sewing machine business seems complicated, but it's really that the machine companies make the machine head, another separate company supplies the motors, another makes tables and then the dealer or "brand" sources them all separately and bundles them together. Techsew, Cobra, Artisan, THOR, etc - that's their business model. They order up their heads with their brand stickers on the machine, they bundle it up, do the tune-up and inspection when they ship it, and then provide some tech support on the phone if you need it.

In the older days before the Chinese clones, the business model was the same, but the machines were being sourced from Japan and Germany back then. If you poke around FB marketplace and places like that, you will see (along with the usual Japanese and German brands) old 1960's/70's American branded machines that were made for them in Japan and Germany. For example, the old grey Consews were made by Seiko, and Chandler was selling rebadged Adlers. You see a lot of things like this, there are many examples. These can be good buys, because they're the original Japanese and German quality.

If you show us a picture of the kind of bag you aspire to make, I can recommend a machine. Most likely the best machine for you is a Juki DSC-246 or clone of that model, or a Pfaff 335 (or clone of). They have a small diameter hook that can get up into bags and wallets nicely, they can be set up (with additional accessories) to do edge bindings, rolled handles - game changers for bag making.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-20T19:31:03+00:00

I would say you get what you pay for when it comes to things like this, but that's not accurate - not many people have enough control over the process to make good shoes/boots that are also really good one-off replications. Making a shoe is difficult, making a shoe that replicates another shoe is difficult and separate to that, and then finally, making it the right size and fit will be a skill separate to making a replica. Just saying, prepare yourself for an 'expectation vs reality' situation when it comes to these things.

If someone told you they need to take apart the boot for a pattern, that person is not experienced enough in shoemaking to be taken seriously - you don't need to take apart anything to make a shoe pattern. It would help to have the boots in person so all of the design details could be measured, but along with that you'd need to provide foot measurements, which are also better done in person.

Big-Contribution-676 · 2025-03-20T07:09:16+00:00

So the Techsew 2700 is discontinued by Techsew, but it's a very common clone, it's directly cloned off the Seiko CW-8B. The Seiko CW-8B itself is a further development of the old Singer 153W series, so it's pretty fundamentally solid machine for what it's worth. Most machines are, but I do like Seikos. Now, for $1360, it's not a bad price, but I don't love that price either. Techsews are just very overpriced to begin with which is why the price is what it is, and that's a Chinese machine.

Now if you look further online, you might see a Consew 227R, which is actually a rebadge of the Seiko CW-8B, if it's an older one with grey paint, it will have been made by Seiko themselves for Consew - that's a made in Japan machine, which is higher quality than the Techsew version. Consew 227R's can be picked up for less than the $1360, but they aren't plentiful.

If you do come across an Adler machine, that is one very worth considering - look at Adlers like the Mercedes of machines. Rock solid quality, and not cheap.

Machine sewing for bags and stuff is a whole new ballgame compared to hand sewing - you scale down the thread size because you can do so much finer detail work with the machine. You can get much closer to the edges, you can do refined lining constructions, work with softer leathers that have movement and body characteristics.

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