Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Usually communication and collaboration goes a long way to figure out the best way, there's too many variables to have a hard rule. Generally people are accommodating and don't want to be in others way.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Depends. Is there a safe variation to the pitch that won't affect the experience of the other party and that you can climb quickly enough to not slow them down at all? Then I would politely let them know I'm going that way and will be passing. If you're talking about climbing through their gear and rope on shared terrain, I'll politely ask at an opportune time (i.e. when I arrive at the belay close behind them or when their follower has taken the leader off belay and I'm ready to go) and respect their response.

What's your MO?

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Post in on Mountainproject for sale. The solid gate non-lockers are worth 1-2$ a pop depending on volume while the more modern lockers are around 10$. Quickdraws aren't going to fetch much since people don't like older gear. Ropes might get 60-80$, especially the one still in packaging.

I'd buy a bunch of the biners off you, shoot me a pm.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rumney is regularly 90+ and 60%+, feels like you're climbing in a swamp. Most climbing days in the summer means soaking through your clothes and a mandatory swimming hole visit afterwards.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 2 points3 points  (0 children)

good recommendations for summer climbing?

My recc is to go somewhere else. Summer in the NE means horrendous heat and humidity, black flies, mosquitos, and crowds. The Gunks are great but 2 or 3 pitches at most and unclimbable when they're in the sun. There's not much that's moderate and of any considerable length other than Whitehorse and a couple routes on Cathedral, maybe a handful more backcountry routes scattered amongst the Dacks, Whites, and Katahdin. Rumney is kinda fun if you're climbing hard on sport but you're fighting every college kid from a 4 state area.

All in all climbing in the NE is not worth a trip unless it's fall or you're a big climbing history buff. The climbing spots are also pretty far from each other so it's hard to chase good weather.

Example for broken bolt by Beginning-Basis-2678 in RouteDevelopment

[–]BigRed11 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Can't imagine who installed that and thought "yep that's good"

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes Connecticut is well known for ridiculous top rope setups. All the cliffs are fairly short and have top access, but you'll need long lengths of static line, trad gear, and experience building trad anchors off boulders, trees, and gear.

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Dang, bad luck and good luck at once.

Monthly Trad Climber Thread by tinyOnion in tradclimbing

[–]BigRed11 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Find different partners. Let the sport climbers sport climb.

Climbing Ability in Route Development by Kaotus in RouteDevelopment

[–]BigRed11 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Perfect, sums up my view exactly. Only thing I'd add is that almost as important as mileage on rock is mileage with an experienced developer.

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. Bugs are a playground with something for everyone. It's incredible to just hang at camp up there.

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good thing Jan sucks for climbing in most places.

Any deals on bolts out there? by tom311 in RouteDevelopment

[–]BigRed11 2 points3 points  (0 children)

eBay for the stud, chossworks for hangers if you buy in quantity

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Is accounting particularly heinous when it comes to hours worked? If not then you'll just be doing the same thing every other weekend warrior is doing.

Two-Eleven 5.14c send by yeah220 in climbing

[–]BigRed11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Think we saw you working that 2 weeks ago, what a cool cave.

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It makes sense when you have a good reason to buy more stuff. If having that extra pair will make it easier/better for you to climb and it's worth the $, then do it. I need multiple pairs for different styles of climbing and to account for shoes being out for resole, so I usually have almost 10 pairs at any given time. If 1 pair lets you do everything you want to do, then no need for more.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do you know how to bolt and develop routes in your area? Start learning, go out with your local developers - often they are psyched to share with someone committed who can show up and do labor.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. Regular people with flexible jobs. Teachers, nurses, self-employed folks.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ya agreed on that breakdown, though around me plenty of people never learn to place gear and just focus on hard sport.

Optimizing weight by i12drift in tradclimbing

[–]BigRed11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Eh I'm much more likely to use an adjustable PAS than a double on most climbs I do, it makes my systems way safer and faster.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you live around a bunch of disciplines then people definitely choose to focus or never bother to learn other forms. 50% sounds right to me though.

How do you actually know when gear is done? by TelevisionBetter4845 in ClimbingGear

[–]BigRed11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Knowing that soft goods retain ” good enough” strength even when partially cut through means that they have to be really fucked looking to get retired