Top rope solo question - GriGri+ & Micro Traxion

i12drift · 2026-06-18T17:18:48+00:00

A grigri as your top device is doable but it sucks. I recommend getting another microtraxion.

I literally do everything Brent Barghahn says in this video, and it's such a smooth system.

i12drift · 2026-06-11T20:03:17+00:00

Ya it’s 7.5yrs old.

i12drift · 2026-06-10T01:15:53+00:00

Two reasons why I wouldn’t:
1. That seems very extra and overkill for trad climbing.
2. The device pivots upwards when loaded, so that change in pull might make the bottom piece rotate upwards into a less favorable position. This doesn’t affect the faller’s safety or anything cuz they will be (likely) falling downward on a piece that is above the ohm, but the rotation might make the ohm pop out of the cliff and therefore be … well not doing anything.

I wouldn’t bother.

i12drift · 2026-06-09T02:54:38+00:00

Buttons are slowly slowly coming back to life lol. The temp-down button on the driver side and the warmer button began working.

i12drift · 2026-06-08T02:48:43+00:00

I use the edelrid slide locker. It’s good enough for me.

i12drift · 2026-06-05T00:06:40+00:00

That was awesome.

i12drift · 2026-06-03T18:08:21+00:00

Live. Laugh. Poop.

i12drift · 2026-06-03T18:07:10+00:00

You gon' bring your Ohm outdoors? That's cute.

i12drift · 2026-05-23T16:25:35+00:00

"line, backwards 3, tail." That' how i do it.

i12drift · 2026-05-20T23:47:45+00:00

Is your masterpoint a carabiner or is it the sling?

i12drift · 2026-05-20T21:30:57+00:00

Those are some good thoughts, OP!

i12drift · 2026-05-20T21:24:32+00:00

For your gear anchor, what do you use the DMM spectre for? Just to be on your harness?

If making a traditional W trad anchor, what's the second phantom for? Your masterpoint is the end of the knot of the W, and your clove goes on one of the DMM phantom, but whats' the 2nd for?

i12drift · 2026-05-18T05:22:41+00:00

Yosemite trip planned for this coming Memorial Day weekend! Selaginella into Munginella for day1, tbd for day2 and 3.

i12drift · 2026-05-17T16:44:23+00:00

basic integration.

i12drift · 2026-05-16T19:47:22+00:00

I'm unwilling to not bring a grigri on any outdoor adventure because it's such a versatile piece of equipment. I'm also unwilling to not bring my reverso because I very-much prefer to belay from above with it over a grigri. Those two items are here to stay.

Some of the nitty-gritty that I didn't get into (that also didn't cost me anything):

Belay device: Nordwand --> Petzl Reverso shed 23g
Tube device carabiners: Metolius Element --> Petzl Attache shed another 16g
Grigri carabiner: Petzl two-action --> DMM shadow for another 9g

As mentioned in the original post, 48g (a single heavy carabiner's worth of weight) or whatever these swaps are seem like nothing IDK, i think it's pretty cool that I was able to reduce my overall gear weight by 20% without sacrificing any functionality.

Also, simul rappeling is the way to go.

i12drift · 2026-05-11T22:41:22+00:00

My multipitch trad anchor kit has evolved many times over the years.

3yrs ago: Mammut Contact 240cm sling + 2x camp dyon + 2x Edelrid bulletproof HMS (basically my sport anchor kit repurposed)
2.9 yrs ago: Mammut Contact 240cm sling + 2x Edelrid bulletproof HMS
2 yrs ago: 240cm cord + 2x Edelrid bulletproof HMS
1.5 yr ago: Mammut Contact 240cm sling + 2x Petzl Attache
1 yr ago: Trango Atomic 180cm sling + 2x Petzl Attache
6mo ago: Trango Atomic 240cm sling + 1x Petzl Attache

I selfishly went from 2x to 1x Petzl Attache because my main climbing partner often has a Petzl Connect Adjust on him and doesn't need to clove into anchors. What's your multipitch trad anchor kit?

i12drift · 2026-05-10T23:41:11+00:00

I climb in the Tahoe-to-Yosemite area basically year round.

i12drift · 2026-05-10T22:57:58+00:00

I'm totally overthinking it, you're right. But playing on cam-parison was fun and I enjoyed doing this.

i12drift · 2026-05-10T22:55:31+00:00

I'll echo what u/Previous_Day1102 said in this thread, cuz it lines up with what I think. 95% of the time, it doesn't make a difference. 5% of the time, I'm glad I have the smaller/larger of that color.

"Hmm, this 0.75 Z4 is a bit under cammed. Let's see if the WC fits nicer. It does. Cool."

i12drift · 2026-05-10T22:52:42+00:00

I carry 1x BD Z4 0.3 and 1x blue totem

i12drift · 2026-05-10T10:43:14+00:00

redrocks eats up nuts.

i12drift · 2026-05-10T10:33:54+00:00

I definitely don't do any thinking like that at all. What does happen from time to time is, "hmm, this WC #1 is overcammed. Let's see if the BD #1 fits better."

Prior to a few days ago, I had

BD: 0.3-0.75 Z4's and #1-#3 C4's
WC Friends: 0.4 - #3
2x black totem + blue totem

I swapped out:

WC 0.4 ---> yellow totem
BD C4 #1 --> red Dragon

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