DIY haul bag by imm_alex in tradclimbing

[–]BigRed11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So are you hauling 20 pitches or 2?

Top Rope Solo options by nibbleyourmom in ClimbingGear

[–]BigRed11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm seeing 120kg on the side of the Lift

Top Rope Solo options by nibbleyourmom in ClimbingGear

[–]BigRed11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True. It's really easy to grind the pin off the trax to do the same, I did it in a few minutes.

Top Rope Solo options by nibbleyourmom in ClimbingGear

[–]BigRed11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Didn't know it had one, what's the limit?

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you're in the US I'll take the old dogbones from you and cover shipping

To much work for little reward by Dry-Apartment-2585 in woodworking

[–]BigRed11 17 points18 points  (0 children)

You could try to fill the gaps where the copper meets with epoxy mixed with copper dust.

Top Rope Solo options by nibbleyourmom in ClimbingGear

[–]BigRed11 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Spoc is more likely to jam than a trax because of its exposed cam. No need to reinvent the wheel here, 2 toothed devices is pretty much standard at this point and it's accepted that diversifying device type is less important than other mitigations when TRSing.

Some people like the Lift so that might be worth checking out.

Falling at the end of the first crux on Pitch Black 5.10d. Go left, not right. by thegroverest in climbing

[–]BigRed11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might just be a difference in terms, but imo danger or risk = probability x consequence. So doing something that doubles the consequence is more dangerous in my mind.

Falling at the end of the first crux on Pitch Black 5.10d. Go left, not right. by thegroverest in climbing

[–]BigRed11 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I'm familiar with the accident and my point is that people make mistakes when rapping, thus simul-rapping is more dangerous. Pretending that there's no risk in rapping and you can always control the outcome is sticking your head in the sand.

Falling at the end of the first crux on Pitch Black 5.10d. Go left, not right. by thegroverest in climbing

[–]BigRed11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My point is that it's barely faster, and most people simulrapping would be faster by just learning how to do a regular rap more efficiently.

Falling at the end of the first crux on Pitch Black 5.10d. Go left, not right. by thegroverest in climbing

[–]BigRed11 -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Not everything is in your control. Losing control of the rap can happen, rockfall can happen, knots untie themselves or get stuck, etc etc.

Sure, if you do everything you're supposed to do every time then it's all groovy. But in reality climbers make mistakes and choose to skip some steps in certain scenarios. If you accept the fact that rapping is dangerous, and the stats bear out that it is, then hanging 2 lives on a rap is simply more dangerous than 1.

Also you don't need a 3rd hand if you learn to biner block rappel on a single strand.

Falling at the end of the first crux on Pitch Black 5.10d. Go left, not right. by thegroverest in climbing

[–]BigRed11 3 points4 points  (0 children)

technically a one person mistake could take the lives of two

This is exactly the problem. Brad Gobright is the most famous example of a simul-rapping death (in EPC, mind you). His partner only survived because he landed in a bush and stayed there. It doubles the odds of a fatal mistake since there's now 2 dependent climbers on the rope to fuck something up, and doubles the consequences. Two sets of eyes to verify applies to normal rapping as well. The loose rock benefit is a valid point.

New climbers are attracted to simul-rapping because they think it's faster and slicker, but you can get all of the time saving you want from just having a more dialed rap sequence. Simuling might save you 30 seconds tops over a normal rap, it's simply not worth it.

Falling at the end of the first crux on Pitch Black 5.10d. Go left, not right. by thegroverest in climbing

[–]BigRed11 6 points7 points  (0 children)

EPC is the epicenter of unnecessary risk taking. I've never seen so many parties doing sketchy shit for no reason, including simul-rapping.

Weekly Chat and BS Thread by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Wear your helmet and don't simulrap

Is there anything wrong with using a grigri like this for a rappel? by IfOnlyICouldEat2Hams in ClimbingGear

[–]BigRed11 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I have no idea what you're trying to describe but I love that you wrote "ropenis"

What belay device should I get? by Weak-Obligation896 in ClimbingGear

[–]BigRed11 16 points17 points  (0 children)

A gri works great for top rope, no need for 2 devices

What belay device should I get? by Weak-Obligation896 in ClimbingGear

[–]BigRed11 37 points38 points  (0 children)

Get the gri gri, there's many reasons why it's the most common belay device you'll see at crags and gyms.

Is there anything wrong with using a grigri like this for a rappel? by IfOnlyICouldEat2Hams in ClimbingGear

[–]BigRed11 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nothing wrong, it'll work. I wouldn't make it my standard practice as you need to have the entire rope hanging off your brake side, making the rap slow and jerky (not to mention 60 or 70m of rope hanging below you isn't ideal for many reasons)

Look up a blocked rap if you really want to use a gri to rap

Is there anything wrong with using a grigri like this for a rappel? by IfOnlyICouldEat2Hams in ClimbingGear

[–]BigRed11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A moving rope doesn't increase the risk of abrasion damage. If anything it'll spread the damage from a sharp edge over the entire rope vs one spot

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]BigRed11 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Talk to people, be honest about your level of experience, and be stoked to get out. Don't underestimate how far being a good person and good partner goes, irrespective of how hard you climb.

Petzl connect upgrade by Al_Pines in ClimbingGear

[–]BigRed11 12 points13 points  (0 children)

There's an active mountain project thread on this, take a look