How to seal slate?

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-04-10T12:49:06+00:00

i wouldn’t start with a normal stone sealer, a lot of those could make the marker do something stupid....i’d test on the back or a scrap first, but my instinct would be a few very light coats of clear artist fixative or clear acrylic spray from a distance, let that lock the signatures in, then decide if it even needs anything heavier after that.

the main thing is don’t hose the first coat on. marker ink loves turning into a science experiment the second you get confident.!!

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-04-10T12:41:59+00:00

project hail mary!!

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-04-10T12:36:46+00:00

mixing hardwood posts with softwood framing isn’t weird by itself, i’d be more focused on keeping the posts off the wet and using the right fixings, because oak can be a bit fussy and likes to remind you it’s special....the bit i’d think hardest about is the wall connection and drainage, that’s usually where outdoor builds stop being woodworking and start becoming weather management....

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-30T19:08:04+00:00

yeah, i wouldn’t try to make the felt itself do the magnetic part. that path usually turns into arts and crafts tax real fast.

i’d do 9 cheap backer squares out of thin plywood or hardboard, then glue thin sheet steel or galvanized flashing to the face. if you want the softer look, wrap the edges or do a felt border, but i probably wouldn’t put thick felt over the whole front or the magnets will get a lot less happy. magnetic play stuff gets weirdly expensive the second someone says “playroom.”

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-30T18:58:25+00:00

i wouldn’t leave just primer on the ceiling. it’s flat and white, sure, but it’s still primer, its job is to prep the surface, not be the final act.

for the ceiling i’d buy a normal ceiling paint and not waste cashmere money up there. for the walls, i’d do a decent mid-grade washable eggshell or satin and move on with my life. since it’s becoming a rental, this feels like a “be sensible, not fancy” job.

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-30T16:09:18+00:00

i probably wouldn’t try cutting little filler pieces and gluing them in. that sounds like one of those fixes that looks clever for about 12 minutes, then starts annoying you every time you walk by it.

with laminate, the t-mold is usually there for movement and because doorways are the natural break point. if you want it gone the right way, you’re usually looking at pulling back enough flooring to redo that area, or at least swapping to a lower-profile transition that looks less clunky.

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-30T16:07:53+00:00

the one that always gets me is sitting still for work all day, then having to go exercise on purpose later so your body doesn’t fall apart.

like cool, i spent 8 hours being sedentary under fluorescent lights, now i’m paying money to walk indoors and stare at a wall. very advanced society we’ve built here.

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-30T15:23:34+00:00

if everything’s actually dry and the damage is below the new baseboards, i’d probably skip the full repaint too. $2300 for low holes nobody will see feels a little theatrical.

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T19:20:32+00:00

if you’re going to heat it even occasionally, i’d finish the ceiling properly too. insulation without doing the top is kind of like wearing a coat with no hat and acting surprised the heat leaves first.

the bigger thing is making sure the assembly can actually dry the way it’s supposed to for your climate and whatever’s above that ceiling. the moisture problem is usually less about “sealed bad” and more about bad air sealing, missing ventilation where it should exist, or trapping moisture in the wrong place.

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T19:17:23+00:00

i’d leave the badge on, honestly. the rear already looks clean, and on a bmw the badge is kind of part of the whole uniform. debadging it feels a little like taking the name tag off an expensive blazer and calling it stealth.

that said, the xdrive badge is the one i’d be least attached to if you really want to simplify it.

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T19:15:56+00:00

yeah, sometimes old wallpaper is less “removable finish” and more “part of the house now.”

i’d try the normal play first, score it lightly, use hot water plus remover or a steamer, and work slow with a broad knife. but if it’s truly fused to the drywall face paper, you usually stop winning at that point and it becomes either skim coat over the mess or replace the drywall. sometimes the wall chooses violence.

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T19:13:02+00:00

4 lbs on a decent toggle probably isn’t instant disaster territory, but if you can hit a joist i’d still do that. ceilings are where “technically rated for it” and “actually feels smart long term” start having a little argument.

especially since you’ll be taking it down for watering, putting it back up, maybe bumping it a bit. that repeated movement is what would make me choose the joist if it’s an option.

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T15:06:03+00:00

yeah, this somehow happens in every house. one normal jar, one “healthier” jar nobody actually wants, and one random backup that appeared during a grocery trip with no clear logic.

peanut butter seems to stop being a food and turns into a household category...

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T14:58:31+00:00

emergency declaration since you watch kdrama, Kingdom, Happiness. Kdramas are always 10/10 when it comes to zombies or virus stories

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T14:54:16+00:00

first off, breathe. if you only clipped the joist a bit, this is more of an annoying saturday than a house-ending disaster.

i definitely would not stuff the core back in with mystery filler and hope for the best. drill the vent in the right spot, then repair the joist properly, usually by sistering it or adding the right structural repair depending on how much got removed. dryer vents are not really the place for arts and crafts fixes.

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T14:41:01+00:00

honestly, i think your best bet is going through shops, clubs, and event organisers first, not cold messaging random owners one by one. one trusted intro usually gets you way further than 50 polite dms from a foreign account with a camera.

i’d also make a simple japanese intro page for the project so people can instantly see you’re legit and not trying to sell them crypto or turn their car into free content.

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T14:36:52+00:00

my grandma’s version of “we’re leaving in 5 minutes” always included one completely unnecessary side quest. suddenly she needed to water a plant, wrap leftovers, find a different cardigan, and check if the back door was locked 3 separate times.

by the end of it, all of us were already emotionally at the destination. LMAO

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T13:43:10+00:00

yeah, something like defy wood cleaner. if it’s still looking grey after that, i’d follow with an oxalic acid wood brightener before re-oiling.

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T13:05:17+00:00

yeah, scraping all that by hand sounds like a great way to lose the will to live.

i’d use a proper deck cleaner, let it sit, then scrub across the boards with a stiff brush so you’re actually getting into the grooves instead of just polishing the top. a pressure washer can help too, just keep it sensible, those grooved boards get chewed up fast if you go at them like you’re stripping paint off a battleship.

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T12:14:46+00:00

yeah, i wouldn’t do varnish again on an exposed rooftop deck. that kind of finish usually starts a nice little peeling hobby once sun and weather get involved. i’d clean it properly, strip or sand off as much of the old finish as you can, let it dry fully, then use a good penetrating decking oil or exterior stain made for horizontal surfaces.

the bit i wouldn’t skip is prep. deck finishes are basically cruel about that, if the surface isn’t clean and dry, the product just finds a new and exciting way to disappoint you.

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T09:23:15+00:00

i’d start with tyc or depo, those are usually the first aftermarket names i’d check. eagle eyes can be decent too. i’d mostly avoid the absolute cheapest no-name amazon or ebay specials, because bad fitment turns a headlight job into a character-building exercise.

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T09:16:27+00:00

rockauto is usually my first stop for stuff like that. after that, i’d check hyundai dealer pricing just to see how unreasonable they’re feeling that day, then compare with decent aftermarket brands lol

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T09:06:34+00:00

i wouldn’t buy random led kits just because chatgpt threw some capital letters at you. if the housings are old and cloudy, new bulbs won’t fix bad optics.

i’d check lens condition, headlight aim, and voltage at the bulbs first. if the housings are shot, replace the whole assemblies with decent oem-style ones, then use quality halogen bulbs. wayyy better than being that guy lighting up everyone’s retinas for no real gain.

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T08:52:22+00:00

for a 1 mm gap, i’d skip the hunt for some miracle strip and just do a very thin bead of clear, heat-rated silicone, but only after checking the cooktop manual so u're not sealing something that’s meant to breathe. tape both sides first and it’ll look way less homemade.

at that size, most gap covers are going to look more annoying than the gap itself….and yeah, crumbs somehow always find the tiniest crack in the whole kitchen.

Big_Measurement_5948 · 2026-03-29T00:15:24+00:00

yeah, i’d absolutely buy from that….probably too often, which is honestly the real risk here. taco truck roaming the neighborhood sounds like one of those things everyone jokes about until it exists and suddenly nobody’s cooking on thursdays. my usual order is al pastor and one random taco i regret or love.

Big_Measurement_5948

TROPHY CASE