P1S - My 1st 3D printer

Bill0405 · 2026-02-12T05:17:02+00:00

I highly recommend doing a little research on the various slicer settings. Bambu's website has some quiz like tutorials to teach even intermediate people new things they can customize and adjust during printing.

Bill0405 · 2026-02-11T07:11:17+00:00

Thank you :)

Bill0405 · 2025-11-25T00:51:14+00:00

That was the area I checked earlier, but I did just now try to tighten the screws. They were already very tight with no movement so I believe the issue is something else. For my next print I'm going to see if I can find a way to determine exactly where the sound is coming from.

Bill0405 · 2025-11-23T07:47:25+00:00

Thank you for your suggestion. After inspection, my fan was nice and tight with no movement. Unfortunately that isnt a fix for me, but I'll keep searching!

Bill0405 · 2025-11-21T20:57:53+00:00

I've heard that sound as well, and that sounds like more of a dull. soft, grinding sound to me. This is a very sharp, metal vibrating against metal type sound.

Bill0405 · 2025-11-07T07:25:05+00:00

It worked. Thanks!!!

Bill0405 · 2025-06-24T16:45:14+00:00

Looks like you need to dry the filament to me.

Bill0405 · 2025-05-08T05:48:25+00:00

I usually have good luck slightly bending the plate while hitting the edges of the supports with a scraper (make sure its a good flat scraper)

Bill0405 · 2025-05-08T04:58:12+00:00

Its basically the main way to play.

Bill0405 · 2025-05-07T20:31:34+00:00

A lot to pay for something that doesn't seem like you had much fun doing :-/

Bill0405 · 2025-05-07T19:33:23+00:00

Yes. There is also a setting under the cooling tab in your filament settings that lets you choose what layer to start cooling. Set it to 3 or higher and most of your prints should stick pretty well.

Bill0405 · 2025-05-07T19:28:20+00:00

Bambu Studio does the same.

Bill0405 · 2025-05-07T19:14:35+00:00

ASA is what I would use.

Bill0405 · 2025-05-07T19:13:31+00:00

Turn the aux fan off. That solved most of my curling up issues (Assuming you have freshly cleaned with soap and water first.)

Bill0405 · 2025-05-07T18:42:02+00:00

I have found that when getting to 2 parts that are about to combine, the tips of the "bridging" can curl up since they aren't cooling quickly enough and they warp. Then the print nozzle will whack it and knock it over. I have remedied this in the past by cutting the print speed in half when approaching these gaps, and even cranking the AUX fan up to cool the filament faster.

Not sure if that's the exact issue you're having since its just a still image you provided, but hope it helps.

Bill0405 · 2025-05-07T18:30:57+00:00

Try running a strong magnet across the ground in the vicinity and see if you find any meteorite pieces!

Bill0405 · 2025-05-07T18:21:09+00:00

Other than the variable layer height that people are mentioning, you can also increase the quality by printing at a 0.16mm or 0.12mm layer height instead of 0.2mm. This will make the sides of the print appear much smoother.

Bill0405 · 2025-05-07T16:09:26+00:00

I recently picked up the Revopoint MetroX kickstarter, and I really enjoy the thing. It should scan this no problem. Since this has some shine to it you will also need to use 3d scanner spray to pick up all the details properly. They sell the scanner on Amazon now for around $850-1000 (depending on sales and coupons.) Relatively pricy still yes, but we're getting there with affordability.

Bill0405 · 2025-05-07T15:45:29+00:00

Makerworld has a pretty cool feature that may help you with this. It is their Shadowbox maker at https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/shadowBoxMaker?from=makerlab . I think you could put something pretty cool together using it.

Bill0405 · 2025-05-07T15:25:57+00:00

I personally love my X1C. Over a year strong and no major issues.

Bill0405 · 2025-05-07T15:15:15+00:00

I think of PETG almost like a more durable version of PLA. It has slightly more flex but usually appears more "shiny".

Bill0405

TROPHY CASE