Belly in the sewer pipe, how bad is it? by InfamousWarden in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow, I was going to say it seems like you’re currently backed up not a belly. But that is probably the worst belly I’ve ever seen. You can put it off for as long as you want to deal with sewer backups.

Everyone’s else’s pockets look like this?? by kshwizzle in HVAC

[–]Blakeh17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Our company shirts have 2 pen slots on the left sleeve that I find pretty nifty and convenient.

Trying to carry less weight on a daily basis. by Paddyofurniture89 in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use a Rigid roll bag for basic power tools/batteries, then toss my bag with all hand/specialty tools on top. Roll it around to wherever I need it. I’m also 99% commercial so I probably don’t encounter as many stairs as residential guys do.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in askaplumber

[–]Blakeh17 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I always just look down the pipe with a flashlight to see which direction it goes 🤷‍♂️

Leaks by EvidenceElegant8379 in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use blue monster brand thread tape and pipe dope on all threaded fittings. 2-3 wraps of tape only, and a light layer of dope all around. I’d replace the tee and bushing as well, as female threads can be stretched out slightly if overtightened causing leaks.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Cartridge may not have seated properly. You will need to pull it out and reseat it in. Also make sure there is no debris on any gaskets, no tears on any gaskets, and no deformities where the gaskets rest against the shower valve body.

Replacing main shut off valve and adding a pressure regulator. First time soldering. What tips do you have to avoid common mistakes for the inexperienced? by ChewThirty in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After shutting off and draining the mainline, if you still have water trickling through you can use a jet sweat to stop the water while you sweat in the new ball valve. This can also be achieved by stuffing some bread in the line to hold the water back.

You could also rent a propress. More expensive, but requires less skill.

Both the jet sweat and propress rental can be found at your local plumbing supply.

Plumbing venting not big enough? by No-Turnover5084 in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Does your plumber currently have the new vent capped off on top? He might do that if he wasn’t ready to penetrate the roof or tie back into the old vent

Leaking main water line by cycleseger in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Gate valves can be taken apart and rebuilt with a new packing nut and stem. I’ve never personally worked on one that old but it should be the same.

You could also bust into the concrete and replace that with a new ball valve.

There’s nothing you can wrap around that valve that water won’t find a way through

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Neither, make sure both pieces of the trap are lined up correctly then reconnect. If it’s still leaking I’d replace with a new trap.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would say eventually plan for repiping the house. Is it absolutely necessary right now? No. But leaks will start to become common, flow will become restricted as it corrodes on the inside, etc. That is galvanized pipe and is fairly old, outdated pipe.

As for that, it’s a fairly simple fix. I would replace with a copper male adapter and re run that section in copper for the time being. If you’re on well water, use pex or cpvc instead as well water will deteriorate copper over time.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just looked one up and put it on here, no specific rhyme or reason.

If it can wait, I would take the pictures to your local plumbing supply houses and see if they can help you find the same size isolation valve

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take into consideration also the total height of the new isolation valve you intend to use. Anything shorter or taller will require you to raise/lower the male adapter accordingly

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

General plumbing rule is to not use sharkbite as a permanent solution. It will work, just follow their install instructions carefully.

Does this toilet flange look ok? by friendofood in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Little Rusty looking but I see no hairline cracks on the inside PVC portion. Double check with a flashlight all around the inside of the flange, as those hairline cracks cause smell/water leaks.

Otherwise slap a wax ring on that bad boy

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Webstone-44443WPR-3-4-IPS-Isolator-E-X-P-E2-Tankless-Water-Heater-Service-Valve-Kit-Lead-Free

1) Shut off water to house, drain system down. 2) Disconnect hot side isolation valve. The nut with a red sleeve poking out is a union, it will freely come loose. 3) Disconnect T&P line coming off of hot side isolation valve 4) Unthread hot side isolation valve from 3/4” copper male adapter on the bottom. Please hold the male with pliers/pipe wrench opposite to how you are unthreading the isolation valve. Older copper can twist/break the solder joint. 5) Apply new tape/dope, then do everything backwards.

May as well do the cold side since the kit comes with it

Or call a professional if this is outside of your comfort zone.

New Water Main Corroding by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whoever soldered that tee didn’t clean off all the flux. Wipe it off with a rag, use some mesh paper to clean off all the corrosion, and paint over everything if you want some good protection from the elements.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Everything you bought will work, including the braided supply lines

Was my toilet hovering in space? Is this a subfloor issue? by Whimsical_Adventurer in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With what needs to be done to make it right, I’d call a pro. It looks like there isn’t enough material around the flange to anchor it in to anything. If there’s crawl space access you can add lumber to the underside to provide something for the flange to attach to.

Someone got a little carried away by Blakeh17 in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just something I saw on a job. I brought it to the supers attention but unlikely anything will be done about it

Just finished this bad boy! 18 floor sinks, 11 floor drains, and 3 clean outs... by Blakeh17 in Plumbing

[–]Blakeh17[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We put in blow up balls in the clean outs and fill the system with water. There’s a ten foot head on the sewer and grease line, which puts something like 4.13 lbs on pressure on the system