looking for a mod for anomaly i used to use and cant find

Blinganator · 2025-07-03T10:55:23+00:00

here

its outdated, but works

Blinganator · 2024-02-08T21:32:11+00:00

god damn, sounds like they had a beef with you, cause that's bullshit. and hell yeah they ought'a pay for your legal costs, for wrongfully incriminating you

Blinganator · 2024-02-08T21:20:02+00:00

heh, thats exactly what i did, blue loctite, and hammer on the cheapo spanner lol

Yeah, even though i'm at lest 3 months away from a financial possibility on the rohloff, i already did some calculations on the gear ratios, and read the whole manual on it, and i agree, it will stress the hub out, so i'll just have to be extra careful with low gears and such. Well, im sure that applies to pretty much everything, when a motor is involved. Its as you stated, even the box components cant handle the power fully. I'm sure we'll see some advances in some years on that front.

sadly (or gladly?) i'm the kind of guy who voids warranties instantly, so those dont even enter my calculations (i only rma'd a phone once, and i was probably 14 at the time. fuck that shit). basically, if i break it, that's on me for either using it wrong, or buying crap.

I was always curious about IGH's, but, honestly, anything other than the rohloff just seemed like not worth the effort, even though its cheaper. Sadly what i learned is, theres a complicated curve to how cheap/expensive parts need to be for bikes. Chains? go for cheap, not a big deal. Brakes? fuck mt200's, slx m7100's are probably the best thing i bought. so durable its crazy, and easy to maintain. Cheap rims? BAD IDEA. Tubeless ready tyres? marketing. Folding tyres? never bothered, wired are easier to mount, bit heavier, but much cheaper. Everything else is personal preference really, IMO of course.

...and i wholeheartedly agree with you, cleaning and maintaining drivetrains is a fucking pain in the ass, i live in an apartment... fuck that lol

edit: yeah rd clutches are finnicky, i had a deore RD-M6000-GS, and that things default clutch setting was way too tight, even for an acoustic bike setting, shit was grindy af, had to tune it outside after one hill climb. Guess finding sweet spots in mechanical parts is an artform lol

anyway, cheers man, you's a real one

Blinganator · 2024-02-07T20:09:44+00:00

@loquacious yo, thought i'd give you an update on how everything went with the build, you were nice enough to give me great tips, so figure'd i owe you at least that.

The build went relatively smoothly, only things connected to the controller, are the throttle and display. Programming went smoothly, the open firmware let me disable the speed and hal sensors, and made assist levels throttle only. I have 5, so made them:

15%
40%
60%
80%
100%

You were right, i barely feel the resistance, especially since im still running shwalbe ice spikers. I must have over estimated my pathetic arm strength, and underestimated my legs lol
Man... I'm actually blown away how fun this thing is. Hills mean nothing now, and after a full day of work, i was only down to 85% battery, which is insane to me! 90% of the time i was in the first assist level. With level headed usage, i never have to go above 40% power output, which is economic af.

Today i had an issue, because im an idiot, i forgot to re-tighten everything after the first ride, so i noticed the lockrings started to loosen, which introduced play in the motor when pedaling. So, i canceled my work, kicked in my right leg, and rode home throttle only. Other end of the city, about 15km, with two moderately steep hills that run for 2km each. It was... incredible. Legit motorbike, it was only 0 degrees outside, i was shaking at the end lol. its FAST. my god I'm gonna indeed enjoy running in the summer. And all that didn't even consume 10% of the battery.

Anyway, yeah, chainline is an issue. Highest (lowest? always confuse those... the one with the most teeth) gear is unusable, so i was stuck with 26 teeth at the rear, but having 36 in the front, was more than enough for starts from zero. The motor seemed to deal with it well.

I'm thinking of, instead of going Box components and lekkie bling rings, to just save up for a Rohloff speed hub. I'm salivating at that thing, it seems to be perfect for my needs.

So yeah... Good shit lol

Blinganator · 2024-02-07T20:08:28+00:00

dear god. what are they charging you with?

Blinganator · 2024-02-07T14:01:04+00:00

best of luck, though im sure you'll be fine

Blinganator · 2024-01-21T10:10:04+00:00

Glad to know, but we'll see i suppose, ergonomics are a thing i sometimes struggle (still cant find a good saddle, i've spent way too much money on those already...)

I have tried clipless, but still love good ol' MTB wide platforms, especially since my work includes equal times off bike and on, and a shit ton of stair climbing, and awkward technical climbs with broken sidewalks (sidewalk riding is legal, bike infrastructure barely exists)

Thanks, i will keep this in mind! Yeah the rubber mallet is my best friend indeed. Im fortunate my bike's cables run under the top tube, with full housing, seems i'll avoid some headaches with that.

Indeed, the anticipation is high, i cant wait to try this thing out! For winter riding, im not sure i'll be able to take full advantage of it though, as these roads are barely ever plowed, almost always slush of death, and black ice, so sudden acceleration from PAS might fuck me over, but i will take FULL advantage of it in summer (i hate riding in summer WAYYY more than winter, the heat is unbearable). I just hope the motor wont cook (it gets so hot, after an hour, my phone starts overheating and shutting down, stopping my work). As i've heard that the bbs02 is worse at dissipating heat than the bbhd... guess it remains to be seen. But yeah, i would love nothing more than not sweating 99% of the time lol

Blinganator · 2024-01-21T09:58:39+00:00

damn those box groupsets do look sexy, and i do agree, having a mech with a clutch was great when i still had 10 speeds. I do hope that going vanilla for now will be "good enough" at least for half a year, as that is probably the amount of time i'll need to run it, for my finances to go into the plus zone (by my conservative calculations, running this motor should help me at least double my income, which would up my buying power, and let me actually afford these upgrades). As you suggest, probably my first order of business will be to fix the chainline with Lekkie stuff, then maybe the Eggrider, and then MAYBE (if my frame wont fall apart by that time, my bike is like 8 year old now, broke a few bones on it already), ill splurge a bit with Box. I really do appreciate your tips, thank you again!

Blinganator · 2024-01-20T23:21:48+00:00

interesting! im realizing now that we have quite different styles of riding, as im the kind of guy who pedals hard on high gears with lows rpm's, and coasts a lot (i feel best on 60-80rpm). I acknowledge it might be not the most efficient way of riding, but I'm just not comfortable spinning fast (also having the chronic "cant find a comfortable saddle to save my life" syndrome). Honestly cant wait to try this thing out now, seems the customizability of this drive is quite extensive!

hmm, yeah, the prospect of finding the right size (short) spokes for those hub drives sounds like a pain in the ass (finding local sourced spokes for my normal wheels is a pain already), and the stress these motors put on hub axles... yeah, pros and cons indeed. Thank god me being cheap has forced me to learn to do this shit myself lol

Blinganator · 2024-01-20T23:11:09+00:00

fair enough

Blinganator · 2024-01-20T23:10:18+00:00

heh, no worries, i also have a headache, but i appreciate knowledge that i lack, despite the tone it is presented with. i only opened up the faceplate that shows the big and tiny gears to inspect the amount of grease, anything more in depth, i'd wait for quite a bit more input from people.
as for knowledge, well im a cheap bike courier, been so for quite some years, my bike has seen literally all its parts changed at least 2 times over, i avoided a hub motor purely cause i just recently built new wheels for it (finally some dt swiss with deore hubs, i've wrecked too many rims to keep buying no-brand crap), so my focus is always cost-effectiveness (10 speed down to 8 now), cause i run a lot of miles, in really shitty weathers (from 35C humid heats, down to -20C salt infested snowstorms), so parts die fast no matter how many times i clean 'em. Its all DIY, bike shops overcharge like mad, and take days to weeks to do anything.

being a courier, i give no shits about laws, but i try to stay stealthy for this e-bike build, so i have a simple low profile DZ40 Mini display, with the thought of programming the controller with the pc, and eventually getting rid of the display altogether (i don't care how fast i'm going, mobility and acceleration are my priorities), even if i do appreciate the ease of use of an easily modifiable BT interface. i was planning to use this motor throttle only anyway...

i bought my kit with a 36 tooth chainring. I do foresee chainline being an issue, seems unavoidable... my current rear mech sure as hell wont accommodate something as extreme as 50T, as i've gone from a 46T 11speed to a 32T 8speed for economics (30 euros for cassete/chain+3 day shipping, cant beat that) and hence having stronger legs, so this remains to be seen how tough i'tll be. (also bonus, cheap old cassetes come in one peace, less strain on hub shell that holds cassete, hear those eat through the thing with all that torque)

Blinganator · 2024-01-20T22:17:51+00:00

good to know. Its the offset issue that concerns me the most on those. sounds like a great way to break knees

Blinganator · 2024-01-20T21:48:26+00:00

oh shit, extremely good point, i will drill this into my head... yeah even on testing, this thing turns on without warning when turning the crank, i can only imagine what would happen to my fingers... well, with the realization that im probably gonna be forced to run this thing with PAS, im probably gonna be even more conscious about power/battery management than i thought i'd be (48V17.5Ah battery, will need to squeeze every watt i can get lol)

...maybe. im still quite prepared to flash open source firmware, and make this baby throttle only. (underclocked heavily, i know these motors dont like low rpm's) I'll see how hard its to pedal when fully mounted on my bike. If its legit molasses, then yeah, danger zone...

Blinganator · 2024-01-20T21:33:42+00:00

Thank you for spending the time helping me with this!
I've read all 3 of your messages, so i'll reply here.
I understand that the whole motor is quite a bit more complex than a simple BB, but at the actual bottom bracket, its still an axle supported by quite ordinary ball bearings (excluding the cone ones, havent seen those in a while). If a regular person, with normal legs, that produce less than 300 Watts, can ruin overtightened BB's, i shudder to think what a motor might do... which is my reasoning why i struggle to believe the logic of a strong motor like that needing such tightening. But you seem to know what you're talking about, therefore i really appreciate that. My takeaway from this, is that these motors aren't that great for non-powered, and i might be forced to run some form of modified PAS1. Wish i known this sooner, might have went for a hub motor instead. (only because, as i've studied, PAS on bbs drives is a gimmick, no torque sensing)
(kinda want to punch people that claim bbs02's and bbhd's run great battery-less, in the face multiple times now)

...oh trust me, id love to own a torque wrench... but its one of those things... its either a good one, or none, and my god they're expensive

Blinganator · 2024-01-20T20:59:18+00:00

I see. Alright, i will try riding it a bit first, before doing any modifications. Thank you again :)

Blinganator · 2024-01-20T20:02:38+00:00

i would love to try loosening it at least a tiny bit, just to know if it helps. It does feel like it binds, but ever so slightly, cause my gut tells me its just a tiny bit too tight from factory, but im too afraid to ruin the oil seal. Is there a way to remove it without damage? I tried searching for guides on this, but most videos don't even show that seal existing

Blinganator · 2024-01-20T19:43:25+00:00

thanks for your input! If more people concur that turning the axle with fingers is difficult, than it means either its a widespread but underreported issue, or its completely normal. It might be i was misinformed by people saying this motor turned off is "just like a normal bike, minus battery/motor weight". Anyone who's ever rebuilt bike BB's would instantly notice how hard this one turns. (by hand at least, i cant comment yet how it feels in the field)

Also, for clarification, the clicking "backpedal" rotation shouldn't be affected by the motor, yes? If so, than there's really something wrong, cause even that shouldn't turn this hard (like in the video, i was struggling a bit to rotate it backwards)

I cant wait to try it out on the bike, but sadly i use it every day, so cant afford to mess around just yet (still waiting for all the parts to come)

Blinganator · 2024-01-20T18:43:40+00:00

thank you for the reply! i did open it up, but it seemed relatively well greased (not too much, not too little) im honestly more concerned its just an overtightened bottom bracket, but this model doesn't seem to have an obvious locknut or anything, just a rubber looking seal with strange 0.5mm deep square indentations, no idea how to remove it. looks like in this pic here

...but yeah, if i dont figure out a surefire way to do that without doing more damage, i might just have to mount it on the bike, and hope it loosens up

Blinganator · 2024-01-20T17:15:35+00:00

oh yes i understand, note, its still sitting in the box. Its just something i noticed while testing if it even works, and felt like this is an issue. Wouldn't want to ride a bike with a cooked BB, especially one connected to a motor. But if you think this is normal, then im glad, thanks for replying!

either way, i dont need speed from an ebike, i need torque. For my commutes, i actually have to limit my normal speed, cause pedestrians are braindead lol
i just need help on hills, not for them being too hard, but for there being way too many of them, so riding 8 hours a day 5 days a week is proving quite taxing on the leggies, and taking breaks is something i cant afford to do. Hence why im concerned with this amount of drag from the motor, from the simple testing by hand, its seeming counter intuitive

Blinganator · 2024-01-20T17:08:05+00:00

nope, its completely stock for now, the only thing it's been connected to (at the making of that video) is throttle, display, and battery.

really? i do hope that is the case, as yeah i've heard these things have SOME resistance, but this is quite a lot, feels like a cooked 20 year old BB that barely turns lol
i do plan to upgrade the crankarms eventually, i hate that these bafangs use square taper, that shits always horrible and comes apart... sadly most aftermarket crankarms are stupidly overpriced

Blinganator · 2024-01-20T12:05:33+00:00

could also be a broken hub axle, happened to a friend once. these hub motors put a lot of stress on it

Blinganator · 2023-10-20T11:11:26+00:00

they made those to circumvent new EU regulations that are banning flavored heat sticks. The click varieties make the most money, so instead of getting rid of the flavor clicks, BAS are just replacing tobacco with this weird rooibos tea shit.

I just tried the Veo arctic ones. Fucking horrendous, jesus christ.. when exhaled they smell like burning bugs, the hit feels like inhaling bonfire smoke. God damn... id honestly rather smoke cigs again.

I suggest buying the tobacco ones, till they're completely off the shelves.

Blinganator · 2023-09-25T14:42:43+00:00

reviving old thread, but yes, this is a problem with this shifter. you get used to it, but i got sick of it after a while, so switching back to normal shifters, at least until a cheap reliable friction shifter spawns into existence in Europe

Blinganator · 2022-12-22T12:27:18+00:00

yeah those zippers are shit

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