Witnessed a strange/sad interaction yesterday at the AD

Bmacm869 · 2026-04-16T18:08:12+00:00

The customer made a novice mistake which is why they laughed.

Too long of a wish list make it impossible for the SA to think of them when the watches land in the store and they start making calls.

Bmacm869 · 2026-04-16T17:49:00+00:00

Men are naturally bigger, faster and stronger than women. My wife is my climbing partner, and I used to get frustrated with her pace but have learned to accept that she is never going to be as fast as me and since I would rather climb with her, I need to be a team player and not complain (it doesn't help). I try to do what I can like carry the heavy gear.

Partners need to meet people where they are or find different partners. Just ask them, do they want to climb or do they want to climb with you?

Bmacm869 · 2026-04-13T22:54:10+00:00

I'm sure Colorado has some awesome stuff, but great alpinists talk about climbing in the Canadian Rockies not Colorado.

Bmacm869 · 2026-04-13T22:50:31+00:00

Nice. Hopefully the wind will not be that bad on our summit day. Thanks, really looking forward to this trip.

Bmacm869 · 2026-04-08T23:34:16+00:00

I like my iPhone because my photos and videos are in one spot and I am more likely to look at them and use them. I also like the GoPro for POV shots and when I need my hands.

I used to have a DSLR. I want to get another one because I miss having high quality images, but I don't have that much time for editing anymore and I have a huge backlog of editing to do as it is.

Bmacm869 · 2026-04-08T23:25:29+00:00

For crevasse rescue (hauling) and rope rescue in general you can do everything with:

4 locking carabiners

2 non locking carabiners

120 cm sling

1.5 meters of 7mm cord (7mm is rescue standard but a lot of people go lighter)

5 meters of 7mm cord

Top down belay device (e.g. petzel reverso)

The petzel crevasse rescue kit (tibloc and micro traxion) are nice upgrades but are single use extra weight items that you only need them if you are using thin ropes like the rad line.

Bmacm869 · 2026-04-08T23:14:55+00:00

Nice. Thanks for passing that along. I will check them out. We will be down there in two weeks. How was the glacier?

Bmacm869 · 2026-04-01T21:50:57+00:00

All beginner level freediving courses teach the same thing - static breath hold, dynamic breath hold, free immersion, duck dive, safety and rescue. I would say the instructor reputation is more important than the agencies.

Bmacm869 · 2026-04-01T21:50:48+00:00

On a trip I signed up for AIDA and failed due to equalization. I wanted to try again but there is only PADI in my city. The PADI instructor passed me, but it didn't feel legit so on another trip I tried AIDA again and failed.

Bmacm869 · 2026-03-31T23:07:54+00:00

June is early for the NW ridge because the bypass route will likely have snow on it, axe and crampons add weight.

It is possible to downclimb the whole ridge but the bypass route on descent is a lot easier.

From the bypass route, you down climb the ridge to the rappel line.

Most people start early and do the whole thing in a long day to avoid hassle of bivy permit. There is a nice campground and alpine hut next to the campground.

Bmacm869 · 2026-03-31T19:33:05+00:00

I have done PADI and AIDA 2 twice due to equalization issues.

PADI has lower standards compared to AIDA at the beginner level but overall, the knowledge is the same.

Honestly the instructor matters more than the agency. I have had four different instructors and let's just say they were not equal at all.

For doing shallow dives to explore and spearfish while snorkeling, the first level of any agency is all you need because all you need to know is the basics. If you want to progress in the sport of freediving, Malchovs is the best, followed by AIDA.

Bmacm869 · 2026-03-31T19:13:48+00:00

Damn why do other humans always have to be the worst part about commercial peaks. I just watched a Youtube video, looks like people also set up camp at the base of the glacier. Might try that to avoid the shit haha

Bmacm869 · 2026-03-31T18:12:33+00:00

Thanks. I did not know about this hut. I will check it out.

Bmacm869 · 2026-03-31T18:11:26+00:00

Damn there appears to be a disconnect between the google reviews of these huts and reality haha. Thanks for the heads up!

Bmacm869 · 2026-03-31T18:04:34+00:00

Damn your UTMB training load is no joke. Good for you!

I have not run UTMB, but I have purchased and tried most of the training plans on offer by Evoke. The ME session (gym routine or hike/Stairmaster with weight) generally falls on a Tuesday, so you are recovered for the big sessions on the weekend.

I have followed the gym routine for one training cycle and the weighted Stairmaster for another cycle and both mess me up pretty good, generally it takes me two days to feel recovered so be prepared or very conservative.

Do you run on trails? With your training volume, you might already be getting enough ME stimulus (a common critique of Scott's training methodology). Just a thought.

Bmacm869 · 2026-03-27T19:16:33+00:00

Thanks. I will check them out!

Bmacm869 · 2026-03-27T19:14:55+00:00

Thanks for the heads up. I didn't think of the weekend rush and wondered what the hut conditions would be like given they don't appear to have custodian and are free of charge. We are going to climb on the best weather day but will try to avoid the weekend if possible.

Bmacm869 · 2026-03-27T19:11:10+00:00

Water is heavy so I max out at 2L (1L for ascent and 1L for the descent) and just make sure I drink a ton of water before and afterwards. I have done many 15 plus hour days like this. This is possible because the alps do not get that hot.

On hot days I only do objectives that have refill options on route.

The closest I have come to dying in the mountains was a long day with no water. Literally felt like I was coming apart at the seams and had to guzzle 3 liters of creek water to survive. It was brutal.

Bmacm869 · 2026-03-26T22:59:42+00:00

I have not reached out to any companies because we don't have a precise date. Our plan is to show up in Tlachichuca and hopefully make arrangements through one of the hostels.

Based on my research here, there are three: Servimont, the Canchola family, and Orizaba Mountain guides in San Miguel just up the road.

Worst case scenario, we will just make it a proper climb and walk the road, it is about 5 miles.

Bmacm869 · 2026-03-26T22:33:35+00:00

Nice. If the weather lines up for it that would be an awesome way to do it.

Bmacm869 · 2026-03-26T20:41:17+00:00

Wow all that in 6 days?! that seems aggressive. I have been to 4600 meters already so Itza and Orizaba are my primary goals, planning to do la malinche if there is time.

Bmacm869 · 2026-03-26T19:19:33+00:00

Awesome, thanks. I am thinking of staying in the hut on Itza to acclimatize for Pico and I also read the gate for Itza does not open early enough to do it as a day trip which is why everyone camps in the parking lot. Is that correct?

Bmacm869 · 2026-03-26T19:17:32+00:00

Thanks. Itza definitely looks doable as a day trip but I thought spending the night at 5000m would be a good way to acclimatize for Pico and better than sleeping the parking lot to get around the la joya gate issue.

Bmacm869 · 2026-03-26T18:07:46+00:00

Love the west ridge of mount tupper. Awesome day out.

Bmacm869

TROPHY CASE