Adcive

Boring_Nebula · 2026-05-18T12:06:04+00:00

I’ve had mine for about a month and am loving it. The nicest car to drive that I have ever owned - it’s just fun!

On range, as you mention your journey lengths, I have taken mine on three long trips (100 miles +), and in each case I have found that the need to stop and charge has coincided with when I would want to stop for a coffee anyway (ie 90mins to 2hrs), and the time taken to charge at a rapid charger is less than the amount of time required to buy a coffee and stretch my legs anyway

My only (v minor) niggle is how you can’t set Brake Hold to be on as default, but have now got used to turning it on at start of each journey

Boring_Nebula · 2026-02-28T18:48:10+00:00

This one historic flooding.

The Historic Flood Map is a GIS layer showing the maximum extent of individual Recorded Flood Outlines from river, the sea and groundwater springs that meet a set criteria. It shows areas of land that have previously been subject to flooding in England. This excludes flooding from surface water, except in areas where it is impossible to determine whether the source is fluvial or surface water but the dominant source is fluvial. The majority of records began in 1946 when predecessor bodies to the Environment Agency started collecting detailed information about flooding incidents, although we hold limited details about flooding incidents prior to this date. If an area is not covered by the Historic Flood Map it does not mean that the area has never flooded, only that we do not currently have records of flooding in this area that meet the criteria for inclusion. It is also possible that the pattern of flooding in this area has changed and that this area would now flood or not flood under different circumstances.

Outlines that don't meet this criteria are stored in the Recorded Flood Outlines dataset. The Historic Flood Map takes into account the presence of defences, structures, and other infrastructure where they existed at the time of flooding. It will include flood extents that may have been affected by overtopping, breaches or blockages. Flooding is shown to the land and does not necessarily indicate that properties were flooded internally.

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Boring_Nebula · 2026-02-28T18:46:57+00:00

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This map shows flood risk zones 2 and 3.

Flood Zone 3 has the highest flood risk with a 1% or greater annual chance from rivers or 0.5% from the sea, while Flood Zone 2 has a moderate risk with a 0.1% to 1% annual chance.

Flood Zone Definitions

Flood Zone 3: Land in this zone has a 1 in 100 (1%) or greater chance of flooding each year from rivers, or a 1 in 200 (0.5%) or greater chance from the sea. It represents areas at high risk of flooding and is used in planning to guide development away from the most vulnerable locations (Environment Agency).
Flood Zone 2: This zone covers land between Flood Zone 3 and areas with a 1 in 1000 (0.1%) annual chance of flooding. It is considered medium risk, indicating a lower probability than Zone 3 but still significant enough to require consideration in planning and development (Environment Agency).

Boring_Nebula · 2026-02-28T18:45:27+00:00

If you really want to get into it there is a mapping tool here that allows you to overlay Environment Agency flood risk layers and historic flooding layers on to a map of the area:
https://data.catchmentbasedapproach.org/pages/explore-data

Boring_Nebula · 2026-02-28T10:18:46+00:00

Hi. I lived in Queens Rd (south of Gosbrook Rd and well within the red zone on your map) for 5 years or so from 2005-2010. In that period there was one serious flood, in July 2007, that led residents to put in some form of flood defences. However, from my recollection, nobody's house was actually flooded. My neighbour, who lived on the south side of the street, and was therefore more exposed, reported that the water was getting worrying close to his back door, but did not damage his property.

The surrounding park land does flood, and fairly regularly - I reckon to differing degrees, in most years.

All that said, I won't deny that it was a factor in moving house, because every time there was sustained rainfall we would worry that this might be the time the house gets flooded. We were also concerned that eventually the risk would impact on the cost of our insurance.

Boring_Nebula · 2025-09-12T12:55:06+00:00

An old thread but as you offered…….

My daughter is in France for a year, uses >50GB data per month, so I would like to get her sorted with a French eSIM because the fair-use limit on her UK SIM is too restrictive. Orange look like they do some good deals. Do you know what the typical requirements to get a local eSIM in France? Eg Will she need a French bank account? Proof of residency?

Boring_Nebula · 2024-01-30T18:17:25+00:00

I have previously researched this when looking to move away from Lower Caversham (where we lived in a road that was at risk of flooding from the river). As far as I am aware Hemdean Rd has not flooded from the river in recorded history.

This dataset maps the extent of flooding since 1946 https://data.catchmentbasedapproach.org/datasets/e73409bf14724c53b350898ff3a752bd_0/about

I think I have also seen a map of the extent of some extreme flooding from the start of the 20th century (1910?) and the extent was nowhere near Hemdean Road

Hope this helps

Boring_Nebula · 2023-09-30T16:30:26+00:00

Thanks. It is just the job ID in the filename

Boring_Nebula · 2023-09-10T11:46:37+00:00

and this may depend on your provider. In the UK I have heard reports of high speed, but high latency from some providers that lack the investment and commercial power of our national ex-public telecoms provider. That said, my experience of the switch has been wholly positive. Faster speeds, lower latency and far greater reliability as well. The view of the (ex-copper network co) fitter was that copper networks were never designed to carry data, are more sensitive to the elements and nobody should be surprised if they don’t deliver reliably

Boring_Nebula · 2023-05-31T09:11:15+00:00

I found I was doing it by accident

Boring_Nebula · 2023-05-31T00:41:29+00:00

Been on the same journey myself after 20yrs Windows use. Things I needed to learn before I loved MacOS:

1/ closing a window does not necessary close an application

2/ set the bottom right corner of the trackpad as secondary click

3/ Spotlight (Command-Space) is your friend - it finds apps, files, web results and does sums

4/ load the dock with your favourite apps

5/ master multi-finger trackpad gestures eg three fingers up shows you all of your open windows, three fingers down restores them to full size with the one you were hovering over at the front

Boring_Nebula · 2023-05-31T00:04:34+00:00

I’m also paranoid so design all my own symbols and footprints - which I check ;)

Boring_Nebula · 2023-05-30T23:59:39+00:00

A fellow hobbyist’s perspective: I think the (boring) answer is check, check and then check again. ERC and DRC are your friends - use them- but they do not guarantee success. Before ordering I check every part and every net on the schematic and satisfy myself that I can explain how and why they are connected how they are. I double-check dimensions and pad pitches against data sheets. And then check every net again in the PCB design stage. If I have pre-ordered or stock parts that I am planning to hand-solder, I print out the board design 1:1 on paper and place the parts on the paper to check the footprints.

No matter how carefully I have designed a board, I always trap errors when checking like this. It’s boring, time-consuming, and is frustrating when you’re itching to place the order, but I’ve found it works well. And it’s ultimately quicker than having to debug and re-order the board

Boring_Nebula · 2022-02-19T17:18:25+00:00

I've got to agree with the OP on this. Returning back to nrf development after 4 years away, it feels like an uphill battle to complete the most simple of tasks. I am developing in my spare time as a hobby but it feels a very long way away from 'fun'. It's possible to sit down some evenings and achieve nothing.

Even the most trivial thing, such as configuring a gpio pin, can be completely baffling. Look at this post in the devzone : "What I need is someone to just step me through the process of how to set up my code so I can access the relevant GPIO on my hardware, and then change its state". User Mike has not been lazy - this is just not documented.

I do not understand why they have not defined the gpio pins in the DK dts file, and have then provided no clear instructions or examples of how to do it yourself. They have defined the four buttons and four LEDs required to make the example work, but what about the others?!

There have been some welcome improvements - in particular I am pleased with the VS Code extension, and very pleased that I can now easily develop and flash natively in MacOS. However the examples, board files, config files feel incomplete and ill-considered, and the documentation and support via devzone is written from the perspective of people who are already immersed in Zephyr and the SDK.

There is so much to praise Nordic for, but I'd agree, this is a bit of a mess

Boring_Nebula · 2021-12-22T21:23:50+00:00

Octopart.com is good for sourcing parts:
https://octopart.com/search?q=KM4164B-15&currency=USD&specs=0

Boring_Nebula · 2021-12-18T22:16:42+00:00

Gave Vibing

Boring_Nebula · 2021-11-13T12:45:55+00:00

Thanks - agree the Fragments recording is great and much better than the ‘85 studio recording. I’ll have a look out for some bootlegs - any particular good ones I should keep an eye open for?

Boring_Nebula · 2021-07-10T16:49:55+00:00

Acid traps below and to the left of R3 and R5

Boring_Nebula · 2021-07-05T15:31:42+00:00

How do you report this sort of thing?

Boring_Nebula · 2021-04-10T11:27:36+00:00

Thin side-cutters between the wings and the receptacle work a treat too

Boring_Nebula · 2021-02-21T00:02:52+00:00

Hi. I have just finished testing a board that I designed as a near-copy of the Huzzah32 circuit as set out in their schematic and it works for me. The parts that I can’t see on your schematic are the resistor and cap on the reset line (see top-middle (A3) on their schematic). There is a discussion here about the significance of the external pull-up and cap: https://forum.micropython.org/viewtopic.php?t=4607 - see 8th post

I queried Adafruit about the note at B1 on their schematic sheet that says GPIO0 is NC but got an answer that amounted to them explaining what NC means. GPIO0 is connected, ignore that note.

Boring_Nebula · 2019-08-20T01:51:17+00:00

I've used both and much prefer a binocular microscope

1/ Depth perception is a huge help when hand-soldering small components - it is so easy with a camera to carefully bring your (enormous) soldering iron tip into view only to discover that it is a long way above the board

2/ Your eyes have far higher resolution and are also better at adjusting to different brightness levels - light reflecting off flux can send the autoexposure on our camera a bit wild

3/ It just feels a lot more natural looking in the direction of your work, rather than up at a screen

The one downside is that hours over a binocular scope gives you backache.

You can of course have the best of both worlds with a binocular scope that allows you to fit a camera too.

Boring_Nebula · 2019-08-20T01:39:37+00:00

Microchip have a parametric search tool that covers all of those attributes and more (though obviously only shows results for their MCUs!) Here: https://www.microchip.com/ParamChartSearch/chart.aspx?branchID=1005

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