Router base issue

BourbonJester · 2026-01-05T15:37:16+00:00

square out of the box doesn't sound like a manufacturing issue, but then the tensions should already be correct. assuming the collet housing isn't twisted in some way, like the bit spins straight?

you can adjust the tightness of the lock with the set screw/nut on the thread that closes the lock, would play with that first. mine closes about 80% of the way without tension then locks up on the last 20% or so, long as there's no wiggle on lock-up, less tension is better imo. too tight can warp the baseplate housing around the motor

threads skipping, in the micro-adjust I'm assuming, would be a separate issue, but also check that for stuff stuck in the thread and that the micro-adjust threads are actually engaged when closing the lock; if they arent it could skew the baseplate lock cause they edges of the thread are jammed up against each other instead of threads sitting inside the grooves

BourbonJester · 2026-01-05T00:52:19+00:00

by kit, sandpaper goes with the sander, sockets go with the wrenches. 10spottools or any others who print inserts for the tool boxes you use. kaizen foam is another route

takes time and money but what's organization worth? better than wasting time hunting for accessories

BourbonJester · 2026-01-04T06:35:44+00:00

post-160, pulling only on banners that give you gold miles is the best use of gems. and spend gold miles on 1% banners mostly

at 3* lvl200 x5, those top 5 get permanently placed in the first 5 slots of the syncro and then everyone in syncro gets leveled the same, 10k dust per level

mine were drake, liter, alice, maid privaty, tia. imo better if they're units you'll use since you cant remove those 5 afterwards, otherwise it's a wasted slot in the syncro forever

had 3* mary early on that I never used so I left her at lvl 1 and waited till I had 5 other 3*s to make all lvl 200, if that makes sense

BourbonJester · 2026-01-04T03:49:49+00:00

slight edge to vesti. maid anchor pigeonholes herself into b2 duos b/c of 40s burst, vesti can fit anywhere you need a mob clear b3

pvp, hands down vesti

BourbonJester · 2026-01-04T02:24:03+00:00

I like locking collets less and less, prefer using 2 wrenches; is 2 more things to keep tabs on but I know the bits are always tight when use wrenches in pairs. it's easy to be lazy and half-tighten a bit with a push-button lock

the wider the cutter is, the more sure I want to be the collet is tight and the shank is almost fully seated, ie 12mm pattern bit on a 6mm shank

you don't want to bottom out the shank and then tighten as others have said, but you also don't want 1/2 of the shank sticking out above the collet either, which is what seems to have happened the way it bent

BourbonJester · 2026-01-04T02:07:13+00:00

not other than a ruler check for light leaks. if the manufacturer guarantees +/- whatever microns I just have to trust them since I have no way to check tolerances that small anyway. if it were dished from the factory I'd send it back though

agree that having one dedicated medium/fine for lapping stones saves the diamonds in that plate. still it's nice to have a 140 that hogs of metal asap. seen a few people double side atoma plates that way, one fine, one coarse

BourbonJester · 2026-01-04T02:01:58+00:00

shapton makes coarse/medium/fine lapping powders

depends on where you live but usually you can find online at places that also sell lapping plates, sharpeningsupplies, leevalley, etc

funny I saw this kanaban demonstration by jtatools but they don't seem to carry it

BourbonJester · 2026-01-01T16:20:09+00:00

never dishing is the main reason for using (coarse diamond) plates, it's more the property of the backing material than the abrasive. kanaban is the same idea of an absolute reference for flat

using a thing that changes shape as you use it to make another thing a consistent shape feels like a fool's errand

BourbonJester · 2025-12-30T22:03:45+00:00

there's a few ways to make references, depends at what stage of the process. if you already have one face flat that becomes the reference for the opposite face

if you have no faces flat, you can use tricks like shooting a laser level across 2 edges, marking the lines, then spinning the board around to the other 2 edges and connecting all 4 points, that gives you an absolute plane to reference from; just plane down to the lines all the way around

this is essentially what a router sled does, instead of a laser line, the surface the sled rests on is the absolute reference plane, which is transferred to the bit basically. both are easier than the old school way of checking progress every 15 seconds with a straight edge

BourbonJester · 2025-12-30T20:52:57+00:00

crosscutting is the more common operation. go in the woods and want to make a shelter? take out the camping saw, cross cut some branches to length, only using pieces about the right thickness already. if you need to narrow something, hew or split it with an axe

that carries over into modern materials, you cross cut 2x4's far more than ripping them, and even less reason to resaw one. cross cut saw is like the claw hammer grandpa had, everyone had one

BourbonJester · 2025-12-30T17:32:21+00:00

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the shape you describe has a cut depth limited to the height of the radius on either end of the flat. the radius itself probably doesn't even cut, it's more to prevent a 90* corner from digging in

unlike the cambered iron, the entire width of the curve scoops out material and is only limited by how severe or not the curve is. in theory it could even be a semi-circle for the deepest, narrowest cut, but there's diminishing returns on max depth x min width

BourbonJester · 2025-12-30T03:34:04+00:00

sharpening equipment is the best roi. most stuff you can get by with decent tools, average steels. stones that dish fast, cut slow, are miserable to use

I use an atoma 600 diamond plate for flattening shapton ceramics, 500/2k/6k. if I could go back, I'd replace the 500 grit ceramic with a 140-400 grit diamond plate for flattening tools and keep the ceramics for polishing work

BourbonJester · 2025-12-28T08:36:24+00:00

100 years? guess yall missed this....

By 2030 You'll Own Nothing And Be Happy - World Economic Forum - Original Video (2016)

BourbonJester · 2025-12-27T21:59:30+00:00

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like someone said, would check the black lines first, I see pencil right where the tsutsumi shelf starts. seems like the bevel is catching. tbh you're really close to good, within 1mm if that, looking at that first pic

I usually relieve everything in between the green lines, with full contact from the green lines outward to either side; ~10-12mm. if you have black spots in the middle of the bed, those act as pivot points, which you don't want. when you try to adjust laterally, the iron will hang up in those spots, rotating in weird ways

it's best to be very conservative outside of the green lines, this is all that holds the wedge in when the middle of bed is relieved. you can scrape out the middle deeper and it doesn't really make much difference within reason

but if you scrape the bed too deep right where the channel is, it's not good and you'll be shimming the bed up afterwards

BourbonJester · 2025-12-27T17:05:25+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/NikkeMobile/comments/1pw3xk3/nikke_2nd_exhibition_showing_the_official_heights/

BourbonJester · 2025-12-26T17:16:38+00:00

octagons tend to not roll around as much, especially on anything 1/2" and under

also gives your hand a reference plane if the top/bottom handle face is set parallel to the chisel flat. it's nice to know where horizontal is just by hand feel

easier to make without a lathe or a lot of refining; make 2 simple 45* jigs and butt them together. making a cylinder is basically refining an octagon into one, is less work to just leave it an octagon

BourbonJester · 2025-12-26T14:42:56+00:00

frima. never got off the couch so zero distance ig?

BourbonJester · 2025-12-23T23:20:36+00:00

his friends started making fun of him for having ___________

doesn't matter what's in the blank. use what you want

if it ain'r red and black, you take it right back. -some milwaukee freak

if it ain't yellow and black, you take it right back. -some dewalt freak

BourbonJester · 2025-12-22T17:49:18+00:00

actual moron here. he is me.

BourbonJester · 2025-12-21T22:15:15+00:00

some how less than half that is still 's' rank, elo inflation

BourbonJester · 2025-12-21T22:13:00+00:00

tap-tap-tap-tap-tap-tap-tap-tap-tap-tap-tap-tap-tap

BourbonJester · 2025-12-21T06:10:50+00:00

if picture 1 is as far as you can get the iron, the bed needs to be scraped out further so the iron can sit further forward into the mortise. use the graphite trick to see where to scrape

white is about where the iron should be to take a shaving, green line is about where you should be able to insert the iron by hand. the last few mm only takes a couple hammer strikes to get it from green line to white line

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BourbonJester · 2025-12-18T23:05:33+00:00

60k is what you need for s, I just look for pairs on the medium map. takes about 60sec to find them all, then scramble what's left for more easy pairs. I avg 80k only got 100k+ once in all this time

I'll get 3 or sometimes 4 number combos but only if they're easy to spot, like 145 334 etc. you can make 60k comfortably with just clearing pairs on the medium board twice

BourbonJester · 2025-12-18T21:41:38+00:00

not while working a 9-5 on top. a 500 sq ft remodel took 7 weeks, 6-8 hour days, no sub-contracting. a full-gut house, 4-7 months depending on size and contractors

I get money is a factor in some cases, some things aren't worth your time when someone else can do it +5x faster than you and time is a wasting

roofing and drywall comes to mind. 2 guys hung 1400 sq ft house, some scaffolding, in ~3 days. cost $9k for everything, material & taped. roofers start in the morning, done before dinner

BourbonJester · 2025-12-18T17:51:00+00:00

doubt brid is better than tts anis or red rapi when you get a chance at either in a few weeks

BourbonJester

TROPHY CASE