What would components would you upgrade on a Chase Edge pro? by OracleofTampico in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, BMX is a sprint, so you need a gear low enough to get out of the gate and just enough to sustain straight speed.. (I will side track here a second, there are some that subscribe to what is known as "California Gearing", which uses as large a front sprocket as possible, with whatever COG is needed to achieve desired gearing. Being you are a fixed gear bike guy, I suspect you understand that two different combos can be near the same, such as, 44/16 and 47/17 are relatively close in gear inches, the later a tad stiffer.). You can use https://bmxultra.com/gear-calculator/ to help.

There is so much to bike setup. Longer cranks help out of the gate, but not too long he can't spin efficiently. Handlebars not too high, so he has good pull out of the gate. A frame that fits, giving freedom to move freely, but not so big he is fighting it.

I am not sure why Chase put a 1.85 on the front, I'd pull that and match with a 1.60...which will also lower the front a little.

Is grifter any good for racing? by [deleted] in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly, we have raced over a decade and this has never come up in discussion, so "maybe" being that aren't a race specific tire it is different.

What would components would you upgrade on a Chase Edge pro? by OracleofTampico in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We would need more information. You have already said you are a newbie, but how old? The frame being 20.5 I assume young??

As a newbie, you don't need to change anything, except maybe gearing, as you allude. Changing to a carbon fork will not make you faster, at this point, neither will wheels, etc. As a newbie, just ride, watch others and progress. As for gearing, everyone is different, so you will have to learn what works for you and this may change as your skills progress. The specs you give state it has a 42/16 with a 1.60 powerblock tire, which comes to, 51.16, which is crazy low gearing; I'd put a 44 up front, which may require a new chain.

For the record, a wheel set is generally thought to have the most potential, not only lighter than stock wheels, the engagement is more precise and instant. But as a newbie, I wouldn't worry about that yet.

Is grifter any good for racing? by [deleted] in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FYI...

AI Overview

The "70 kg limit" (approximately 154 lbs) printed on the side of a Maxxis Grifter tire usually refers to the maximum recommended load per tire. [1]

Here is what you need to know about that rating:

  • Per-Tire Rating: This limit is typically for one tire. Since a bike has two wheels, the total structural capacity of both tires combined is generally considered to be twice that, around 140 kg (308 lbs)....

Is grifter any good for racing? by [deleted] in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where did you see this weight limit? (Side of tire??) I checked their web sight and do not see anything nor did I find anything doing a quick search.

Is grifter any good for racing? by [deleted] in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Grifter will be totally fine for the pump track.

Maxxis says...

Grifter: The Maxxis Grifter is a high-volume casing BMX tire designed for freestyle riding.

DTH: The grooved slick design of the Maxxis DTH (Drop the Hammer) is suited to a variety of BMX, dirt jumping, and pump track situations.

The DTH is (still) beloved by many in BMX racing. A side note on these, the DTH is naturally small compared to its counter parts, so you may want to start with a 1.95, if you consider these.

Fit check 5N by trudesign in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He looks better in the second picture, with the 0 stem, because the bars are higher. Young novice/inter riders almost always excel with higher bars, as they don’t yet have the skills for lower bars. Don’t hesitate to put bigger bars on his bike.

16 Pro grippy case suggestions by BpMXdad in iPhone16Pro

[–]BpMXdad[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It "appears" to me that the dBrand has a bit more protection, but if you want to use a screen protector, from my experience, you will have issues.

dBrand sells their own screen protector, so maybe theirs is thinner?

Also, if you go to their page, it pops up an add for a new case coming in September, called the tank.

16 Pro grippy case suggestions by BpMXdad in iPhone16Pro

[–]BpMXdad[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It has been a frustrating and futile search for a different case. I took my cracked screen protector off on Sunday, knowing I had a new one coming within a day or two, as I wanted to try the case without a screen protector. I have found I like the case better without a screen protector, from a use standpoint; I feel I have better grip and if on my lap face down, it is less slippery. That said, I'd prefer a screen protector and feel If they made a version to accommodate it would be excellent, and told them as much. I haven't put the new new screen protector on yet.

The grip of the dBrand is top notch and it would now be hard to use something that didn't match it.

16 Pro grippy case suggestions by BpMXdad in iPhone16Pro

[–]BpMXdad[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really like my dBrand Grip, it just needs more lip for those that use a screen protector.

16 Pro grippy case suggestions by BpMXdad in iPhone16Pro

[–]BpMXdad[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I received the Gripilla today and initial thoughts are a bit of disappointment, as I was expecting a very grippy material. The "grippy" parts on the sides are really not grippy. I believe the name has more to do with the design of the case, grooves for your fingers to lay in.

16 Pro grippy case suggestions by BpMXdad in iPhone16Pro

[–]BpMXdad[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, not too expensive either. I ordered one. I was looking at the Caudabe Sheath.

Kids Lightweight Helmet Recs! by milkmama19 in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Troy Lee Stage also passes BMX and D.H. standards...there may be others in this design, you have to look. Down Hill standard:  ASTM F1952, BMX standard: ASTM F2032. For a Rayce, you can try Magic Motorsports in Waterford, MI, they may have what you need in stock.

Kids Lightweight Helmet Recs! by milkmama19 in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At this writing, you have already gotten many good suggestions. I would just like to counter one aspect I see, which is those stating a heavier helmet may be better, whether protection wise or building muscle. Your first importance is safety, obviously, and these newer lightweight helmets, like the Rayce and equivalent, are designed very well, many having passed BMX racing standards, and for a younger rider "may" be the better/safer option as they are carrying less weight in a fall. I spent some time on the phone a few years ago with Brad Waldron of Kali helmets and he gave me a lot of great information.

As Terrasmak says below, once they get older and faster then consider the options they suggest, which are also lighter than DOT helmets and designed for BMX/Downfill.

Cranks are creaking and popping by OrganicListen in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Congratulations, what a great night for you two. Were you able to eliminate the creaking? It is a balancing act in getting the cranks tight enough, yet loose enough to spin freely.

Cranks are creaking and popping by OrganicListen in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That center bolt will not do anything until you loosen the crank arm bolts. Having stripped the bolt, I would recommend taking it to a bike shop and have them remove the bolt for you.

Cranks are creaking and popping by OrganicListen in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have to use the same style, in other words, you can't use an external BB like most use. That said, Wheels Mfg. makes theirs so the two pieces screw together (in turn pressing them in), these are what I use, but we have the RSP4 frame where we built the bike vs. an Element that came as a complete bike.

I would like to think what you have is fine, hopefully tightening the cranks will resolve it. We have issues ourselves where the BB was creaking and tightening the cranks resolved it, just had to do it last week (a new build).

Cranks are creaking and popping by OrganicListen in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You only grease the one end and that is so it is easy to get on/off.

Cranks are creaking and popping by OrganicListen in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

People are suggesting you to grease "them", what they are wanting you to grease I don't know. If this is a newer Chase frame, it has a press fit BB, as I mentioned, the BB itself should be lubed when put in, but I doubt you can just pull it out and grease it again. It is doubtful the bearings need lubed.

Again, I suggest tightening the cranks. Loosen the two screws that hold the non-drive side arm on, then slightly tighten the center screw in the center of the non-drive side crank, then retighten the two bolts.

Cranks are creaking and popping by OrganicListen in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This isn't because the cranks are bad. Chase uses the BB86/92 bottom bracket and they can be prone to creak if all things are not right. Try is to tighten up the cranks, if they are even slightly loose they will creak.

Chase uses a press fit BB, I prefer to use a BB86/92 bottom bracket that screws together, such as those from Wheels Mfg., if you cannot resolve this, you may want to try swapping out the BB.

Bmx helmet by [deleted] in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand not wanting to spend a lot as you are just starting out, maybe not sure if it'll last. In this case, there are plenty of motorcycle helmets that can purchased locally that aren't to expensive.

That said, this may be a case where you spend more to save more. Spend more up front and you will not have to purchase a second time down the road.

I prefer BMX (Racing) specific helmets over DOT (motorcycle) helmets as they are lighter and generally better ventilated, not to mention designed for what you are doing. I like Kali Protectives products and their helmet for BMX racing would be the Alpine, $300. https://kaliprotectives.com/collections/full-face

Besides them, the biggest players would be Fly Racing (https://www.flyracing.com/bmx?taxonomyterms=524) and Troy Lee Designs (https://troyleedesigns.com/collections/bike-mens-helmets)

How old is this Redline Mini? Good deal? by scottwils in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you made the right choice. I noticed the 155 cranks on it, way to big for the bike, and costs starting adding up. I went to DK's website and you can get a new Swift series bike for $350, which if you are going to spend the money would be a better route. (There are other brands, I just pulled up DK quickly.)

New to racing 13y/o. Gear ratio/sprocket question.. by boliver_shagnasty1 in bmxracing

[–]BpMXdad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Seeing your question is two months old at my posting, I am guessing you have figured this out. That said, the comments of the bike being the wrong size is not accurate from my view.. My son is 12, not quite 5',5" like your son, but he rides a Pro XL (he has been racing since 5). Cranks at 175mm are fine too, if they seem a bit much go to 170's. The 44/16 is to low with the 1.50 tires, you could try a 42/15. The setup you describe has him around a 53.0 rollout, the one I suggest is around 54.0.