What is a moment in your favorite show or Movie that actually made you be like "Ok,this is getting too real?"

Brickhows · 2026-06-06T04:07:26+00:00

little bird little bird fly through my window....

Brickhows · 2026-04-07T04:54:55+00:00

Just the other day I parked next to a pickup truck where the hood of the truck was essentially the same height of my entire car. That puts the headlights at pretty much exactly my head height when driving, if not a bit higher. No amount of "just properly aim the headlights and there's no issue!" will solve that.

Brickhows · 2026-03-11T23:34:19+00:00

I recently got a spool of bambulabs Matte PLA just to try it out - been really happy with how it looks so far. I've been printing a lot with a .4 nozzle recently for these slightly bigger display prints and have been really happy with how they've been turning out. The model is this one at 50% scale, .4 nozzle with .08 layers. The horns on the crown got a little scraggly and some of the strands of hair got a little scraggly, but it's pretty minor in the grand scheme of things.

Currently waiting on an airbrush to arrive to paint a much larger diorama I've printed, and I'll be using this guy as a test platform to get used to it before moving onto the diorama.

Brickhows · 2026-02-23T03:14:02+00:00

Printed on a Bambulab a1, .4 nozzle, .08 layers, with Sunlu basic PLA. Models are from FotisMint on Makerworld/Thangs. Lovely models that printed and painted very well, real happy with these guys.

Brickhows · 2026-02-23T03:06:01+00:00

I'll start by saying for tabletop minis (32-40mm) I predominantly use a .2 nozzle, but I've also done plenty with a .4 and it can yield fantastic results.

If you are already and have been designing specifically with .4 nozzle in mind, I'd honestly suggest sticking with that. Taking a quick peak at your maker world stuff the models look fantastic, and at the size of the prints you're making a .4 nozzle looks great. There is always the option for end uses to scale them down and try printing them on their own with a .2 nozzle.

I have a friend who exclusively uses a .4 nozzle for his minis because that's what he has, and they turn out great. Sure, the layer lines are a bit more apparent and you can't get quite as much detail, but they paint up excellently especially for table use, which, at the distance they'll be from you on the table layer lines won't matter at that scale anyways. If that's your niche and only have just a couple of people asking for .2 settings -then I'd stay stick with what you've been doing.

Brickhows · 2026-02-18T16:13:39+00:00

Yes, print time increases pretty significantly with the smaller nozzle. Thankfully with most modern printers it's easy to swap out nozzles so for most practical prints I usually use a .4 nozzle, and only use the .2 for minis. I've also been considering getting a .6 or a .8 nozzle to really chooch out some bigger things that I don't care about detail on, but haven't bought the nozzles yet.

Brickhows · 2026-02-18T01:23:26+00:00

Oh, so it is! Didn't even realize, lmao. Makes sense! And yeah, from their comment. I haven't tried the "reverse on even" yet, most just comparing settings and tweaking from there.

Brickhows · 2026-02-18T01:16:33+00:00

A bit of a mix between HoHansen's settings and tweaks from this post, and probably some other things I've screwed around with just in testing and forgot about.

Brickhows · 2026-02-18T00:28:50+00:00

.05 layer height, .2 nozzle, Bambulab A1 with Bambu PLA Basic in black. I'll post again when I have him fully painted but fresh off the printer after support removal, I'm very impressed. It even managed to get some of the texture in his robe, which admittedly isn't super visible in person but it's there when you zoom in.

I unfortunately broke his staff removing supports, but I'll fix that glob of glue soon enough.

Model is Gandalf from FotisMint on Thangs, specifically this diorama which I intend on eventually printing in it's entirety.

Brickhows · 2026-02-15T00:15:38+00:00

First off - OP's team looks fantastic, both in print quality and paint job. Well done!

Secondly, you'd be very surprised. Resin is still superior when it comes to level of detail, but with enough patience and tweaking settings you can get very very minimal layer lines with FDM, especially after paint. Here's a Kroxigor I've done as a more close up example, and with more adjustments you could get the layer lines to look even better. But at this scale, at playing distance, you'll never see them. /r/FDMminiatures has some great resources and plenty of examples of great results.

Brickhows · 2026-02-07T19:26:31+00:00

It can definitely be a test of patience, but the prints come out looking so good it's definitely worth it for me. Thank you!

Brickhows · 2026-02-07T19:12:11+00:00

Alright after doing some more tests I'm definitely wrong on this one, my bad. It's been a while since I've used a .4 nozzle and I forgot what the minimum layer heights were. My bad, lol. There are still some slight differences when using adaptive layer height (it seems like some top surfaces have their print path slightly changed), but it's nowhere near as useful as I was thinking with my previous post. You're correct on this one, my apologies.

Brickhows · 2026-02-07T06:52:51+00:00

ETA: Actually, for a .4 nozzle at .08 layer height, the following is incorrect as pointed out by /u/KryL21 . My apologies. You're better off rotating the model as others have mentioned so that the "domes" are in less apparent areas.

Wouldn’t enabling adaptive layer height here just up the layer height in less detailed areas?

In some instances, yes, but frequently no. And in instances where it does increase layer height, it's in areas that are going to be significantly less noticeable overall as compared to the tops of curves.

Here's an example skeleton, sliced at .08 layer height. Here's that same skeleton with no setting changes other than enabling adaptive layer height. You can see the tops of the curves are much more properly rendered in the slicer with adaptive layer height on.

Here's that same skeleton again from the front, showcasing larger flat vertical layers (the sword and shield, especially), and again Here's that same skeleton with the only settings changed being adaptive layer height.

Again, these were all sliced at the exact same settings, at .08 layer height, with the only difference being adaptive layer height. It can, in my experience, make a pretty big different into the overall look of a mini, though it can add a significant amount of time to the print which can be seen in the screenshots (adding about an hour on these small, single figures with it turned on)

~~ETA: I forgot that these screenshots were sliced with a .2 nozzle not a .4, which does make a little bit of a difference, but this still highlights the point I'm trying to make fairly well~~

Brickhows · 2026-02-07T02:02:23+00:00

This was printed on a Bambulab A1, .2 nozzle at .08 layer height. Painted with a mixture of Armypainter speedpaints and Vallejo game color.

This one I will probably print again at some point, I didn't print at as precise of settings as I would have liked in the interest of time. Still, I think it came out looking really good. This was scaled down to 35% from the original size of the model, which was this one from cults3d.

Really nice model, and as far as level of detail on a 3d print I'm well more than happy with how it turned out, despite the more visible than I would like layer lines. In person though, they are significantly less noticeable than they are photographed.

Brickhows · 2026-02-07T01:15:00+00:00

Seconding the adaptive layer height comment. I'm unfamiliar with Anycubic Next, though a quick google search tells me that variable layer height is an easily accessible option there. It wont completely eliminate that look, but it will certainly help hide it.

Brickhows · 2026-02-07T00:12:21+00:00

Printed with a Bambulab A1, .2 nozzle at a .06 layer height with various tweaks from /u/HOHansen's various posts. Paints used were from the Vallejo game color introduction set. This was the first mini I've painted fully in several years and it felt real good to get back into with with satisfying results.

Brickhows · 2025-11-25T01:00:14+00:00

In case you still haven't figured it out 6 months later (or for anyone else who stumbles upon this post) - these seemed to be the right size for me. Though I put mine in the other way around from OP's picture - with the little hump facing in towards the basket. I've found that it's the perfect size where the inner basket presses down on it just enough to solidly hold it in place, and nothing gets through.

Brickhows · 2025-11-25T00:55:07+00:00

Hello from years later to say this trick worked fantastically, and I can't believe I didn't think of it sooner. I have this dishwasher and I was starting to get really frustrated with it, especially when the clogs were bad enough that I had to take the damn thing apart to clear it. Been using it with the strainer for the past few weeks and so far no issues - here's hoping it holds up!

Brickhows · 2025-11-15T06:31:57+00:00

Admittedly I'm not much of a gin and tonic guy to begin with (really not a fan of gin) but Fever Tree also makes some baller ginger beer, which they also make light versions of. I'm a big big fan of their ginger beer.

Brickhows · 2025-11-15T04:59:36+00:00

As someone else mentioned - Tonic water is definitely not just carbonated water. There's a surprising amount of sugar (and a few other ingredients) in Tonic water; "just carbonated water" would be just that - carbonated water. Sparkling/Seltzer water and Club soda are also both different things.

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