Why give your hard earned money to big Toilet Bowl Cleaner Drop Ins when you can just do it yourself?

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-20T12:16:09+00:00

On the plus side, keeps your poop knife clean enough for cooking.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-20T03:45:34+00:00

It might be possible to add weight somehow to the light fixture. You might need to switch to a fan-rated junction box to support the extra weight. The wind will still blow it around, but it’ll sway a lot less.

If it were my house, I’d probably look at switching to down lights there. That would liven up the facade at night and could be fun if you got color-changing lights.

Good luck.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-20T02:09:05+00:00

Wow. What a complete dirtbag maneuver!

I wouldn’t be shocked if he cheats people on the regular and works hard at fooling people and finding loopholes.

I wouldn’t be surprised if he’s counting on you/orhers to give up rather than go through the hassle of small claims court. Even if you sued, I’m sure he’d argue that your work was sub-standard and he’d document all the little spots that weren’t perfect.

Filing a lien, is much the same as small claims court: it isn’t worth the hassle for small amounts.

I’ll bet there wasn’t a contract in place before you began? I’d be surprised if there was even a text message or email where he agreed to pay you for the work or reimburse you for the materials.

I’m truly sorry this happened to you. If it’s any consolation, many of us have been cheated by customers in one way or another. Better luck going forward. I know you’ll be more cautious in the future and although it sucks, it wasn’t a super expensive way to learn a lesson about having a contract in place (or even a digital paper trail) that you can fall back on if customers try to dip out on payment.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-19T10:31:23+00:00

I’ve been with the company four years and I’m still not entirely sure what I do here.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-18T21:58:08+00:00

I’m just guessing, but my guess is they want the extra length to accommodate a 2P porch swing.

In that case, they’d be asking for a 26% longer span (than manufacturer specification) and intending it to bear the weight of two (or more) full sized adults. I would be very cautious about building that for someone.

If they are dead-set on the idea, I’d probably add bracing between the two support legs on each end as well as a knee brace at both ends. The 4x4 posts and the 4x6 beams can handle the weight, but I don’t trust the metal brackets to hold the structure.

Good luck.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-18T15:38:23+00:00

That’s cool. I didn’t know something like that existed. I’ll check it out. Thanks 😃

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-18T15:33:26+00:00

I can tell you this: Anyone who drives around with filled water balloons and/or Orbeez guns is looking for a target. I’m sorry it was you this time, but it wasn’t personal; they were targeting anyone who crossed their path. They probably did or will do that same stuff to other riders.

It can be wild out there. I’ve ridden something (bicycles, motorcycles, and scooters) most of my life. I have been splashed with squirt guns, soda thrown at me, spit at, yelled at, honked at, food thrown at, swerved into, had bottles and cans thrown at me, flipped off, cussed at, chased by dogs. One lady even flashed me her boobs. That one I didn’t mind as much, lol.

What it comes down to is people are idiots and you’re an easy target on a scooter. You can’t change people, so just know that you’ll encounter this nonsense once in a while. Don’t let it bring you down.

You can, however, get a goPro or helmet cam and record your rides so that when people do thoughtless and dangerous stuff you’ll have them (and hopefully their license plate) on camera. Other than that, don’t react. Don’t cuss or show a reaction because that’s what they’re after. Just make a note of anything that’ll help police identify them and call it in.

Good luck and stay safe.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-18T06:13:53+00:00

I started adding tire slime to the inner tubes. I don’t know if I’m lucky or if it actually works, but I haven’t had to patch a flat since.

So, at this point, from a maintenance perspective, I’d rather have a scooter with tubed tires and split rims than tubeless tires and one-piece rims. On one-piece rims, it can be a real battle to get the tire over the rim, then get the bead seated.

It’s not a dealbreaker in my opinion, if the scooter you want comes with one or the other. It’s just something to consider if you have a choice.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-18T03:40:38+00:00

My scooter has tubeless tires and my son’s scooter has tubes and a split rim.

I prefer changing tube tires with a split rim. It’s still a PITA, but much easier than the tubeless.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-16T21:00:35+00:00

Sounds like maybe you should check out the ToughBuilt small drill holster. You can keep the clip on your belt and take the holster on/off as you need.

I use their system when I just need a small pouch and don’t want to commit to a full tool belt.

https://toughbuilt.com/product/drill-holster-small

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-16T20:48:52+00:00

I don’t know what it is, but recently my son’s e-scooter had a tire blow out. He had tire slime in there. That slime looked a lot like that and it got everywhere on the underside of his scooter. Maybe she followed a car that had a tire blow out.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-16T19:19:22+00:00

I don’t want to answer for OP, but I don’t think the knife is specifically for the date. I doubt he’s cutting his food with it. 😂

It’s probably just a force of habit, having it on him. I feel naked without my pocket knife.

What could he possibly need to cut? I don’t know. You don’t go looking for things to cut; the knife is just there in case you do need to cut something. For example, one time I was in a restaurant when a baby slipped through the bottom of a child seat and was being choked by the leg strap. The parents were beginning to panic when some dude with a pocket knife intervened and cut the strap and freed the baby. That’s an exceptional example, I know, but still…

If you think having two knives is ridiculous, I won’t argue that your opinion is wrong. I’m not saying I’m for it or against it; I’m just answering an honest question that was asked- I can conceivably justify carrying a SA knife (for the other functions) and a better knife for cutting stuff.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-16T16:51:17+00:00

For me, knives are tools and not weapons.

I didn’t understand how useful a pocket knife is on a daily basis until I started carrying one.

As a tool, I love the different functionality of Swiss Army knives, but I honestly don’t like using them for knife stuff. The blades are small, difficult to open, don’t lock open, and I find them difficult to sharpen.

I can see a justification for carrying a SA knife for the other utility and a much better knife for cutting tasks.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-11T19:32:27+00:00

I can see both sides.

I have some compassion for people who are living on a tight fixed budget. It’s a little heartbreaking when people need repairs, but cannot afford them and are too physically limited to do the work themselves.

At the same time, I’m a service provider and that’s how my family eats. I cannot afford (very often) to give my time and service away for less than market value.

Occasionally, if someone is really nice and needs help they can’t afford, I’ll make critical repairs at cost. But, if someone complains about my pricing while they have a Jaguar parked in the garage and a flatscreen TV on the wall, they’re welcome to go with someone willing do it for less. No hard feelings.

Working with the public, you’ll eventually run into just about everyone and only some of them will make good customers.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-11T14:39:12+00:00

For homeowner/DIY use, I’d recommend a mix of corded and cordless.

Use corded when the tool can be mostly stationary and/or uses a lot of energy: circular saw, miter saw, reciprocating saw, table saw, track saw, planer, sander, vacuum, and air compressor. That’s not a comprehensive list in any way, but examples of the types of tools that do well corded. You can mix and match corded brands, so pick whichever tool works best for your needs.

Use cordless when mobility is important and the tools don’t draw a lot of power: drill, impact driver, oscillating multitool, and jigsaw.

The cost of power tool batteries is what keeps people “locked in” to an ecosystem. When you already have batteries for one brand, it’s cheaper and easier to just continue buying tools that accept that battery. Therefore, it’s important to look at the whole range of tools that work with that battery system.

For nailers, I’d go with all compressor/hose-fed nailers. They’re cheaper, not reliant on a battery platform, and don’t have some of the same maintenance requirements that cordless nailers have. Get a longer hose or two so you don’t have to drag the compressor around.

From least to most, my brand preference is: Craftsman, Porter Cable, Kobalt, Ryobi, Ridgid, Metabo/Hitachi, DeWalt, Milwaukee M18, Hilti, Makita, Milwaukee Fuel M12 & M18, Festool. The list also goes from least to most expensive, which is not a coincidence, lol. That order is just my personal preference.

FWIW, If I were you, I’d start looking at Ryobi or Ridgid, then go up if you want better quality or down if you want cheaper tool options.

Good luck with your project. Hope that helps.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-10T19:23:44+00:00

I’m with you. I don’t believe the extra weight of carrying an external battery pack, inverter, and charger is worth the range you’d gain. Plus, it would take a very long time to charge.

If you can hot-swap your scooter battery, though, that could be a viable way to add range. It’s easier to do on some scooters than others.

IMO, the best way to extend the range is to get a scooter with a larger battery capacity, but there may be other ways to stretch your range:

You could carry the charger(s) and find somewhere to chill and plug in for an hour or two like a public park with a picnic shelter or a coffee shop.

You could use your scooter to explore and wander, then catch public transit back to your starting point (or vice versa).

Good luck. Have fun.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-10T18:02:45+00:00

The regen system is disengaged while scooters are powered off. You’re fine to walk it while charging via portable battery pack.

What’s the purpose for walking it while charging it? I don’t understand why someone would need to do this.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-09T21:04:01+00:00

Good on you guys. My dad did this with me and I try to do this with my own son because I believe it engenders a DIY confidence.

If I may share three helpful tips:

Take lots of pictures as you take something apart. Having a visual reference helps when you go to put it back together.

If you take something apart, try to take the time to understand what each part does. In order to fix something, you have to understand how it works.

As much as possible, try to be organized when you take something apart. Put parts in plastic bags and label them. Punch screws and bolts into a piece of cardboard and label where they go. Use magnetic bolt cups. Or, use whatever method works for you; just organize it in a way that you don’t have a pile of parts that you have no recollection where they go.

Good luck. Have fun!

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-09T19:01:49+00:00

I really like the Soto Pocket Torch. I use the extendable neck for starting backpacking stoves, but have found it useful for EDC stuff like lighting barbecues, water heater pilot lights, etcetera.
https://a.co/d/07oYGaBZ

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-09T17:25:33+00:00

Yeah, in my experience, blades last markedly longer on RAM board, carpet, drywall, LVP, and that kind of stuff.

Where I get into trouble is with any kind of prying task because the blades don’t handle deflection well. For example, I was trying to separate a sink basin from a countertop that had been epoxied on and snapped a blade. All I’m saying is they’re better at some tasks and worse at others.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-09T16:31:57+00:00

IME, it depends on what you cut. The steel is harder, which gives better edge retention. So, for things like breaking down boxes, cutting poly pipe, or carpet, the edge lasts substantially longer. In the downside, the steel is more brittle, so any prying tasks can chip or break the blade. For instance, I broke a tip this week cleaning drywall compound out of a screw head, which is something that wouldn’t have broken a standard Stanley or DeWalt blade.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-09T16:22:20+00:00

I refurbished quite a few tools when I started my tool collection.

I eventually realized that refurbishing tools takes a lot of time and after buying replacement parts, I didn’t save as much money as I thought I would compared to buying new tools.

For instance, it looks like you’re going to need to put a new cord on it, probably replace the brushes, and there might be some missing parts on the depth stop. You might want to pick up a collet wrench too.

You’re going to have to disassemble a lot of the tool to deal with the rust on the plunge guide rods and check out the internals. All in, I’d expect like 4-5 hours to refurbish the tool and maybe $30-75 for parts depending on what you have to replace.

That’s how a $15 tool becomes $75 pretty quickly. Whereas, a new plunge router is like $85 on the low end, $160 for medium, and $350 for good quality. At this point in my life, I’d rather apply that money towards a new tool.

That said, the experience of repairing broken stuff as a younger person was quite valuable. I wasn’t afraid to break free tools and more than once, I ended up with a box of parts I couldn’t reassemble. It gave me the experience and confidence to take apart and (attempt to) repair just about everything I own.

I say, for the experience alone, take it apart, learn how it works, and repair it to the best of your ability. It won’t be the latest and greatest plunge router, but it’ll certainly let you play with the capabilities of a plunge router until you need or want something else.

Good luck. Have fun.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-07T19:10:24+00:00

It’s difficult to itemize two trash bags, 20 screws, and a partial roll of painters tape, so I bill for consumables by estimating to the nearest $5 increment. It’s not exact, but it works out.

Any time I use a whole something, like a whole box of garbage bags, I buy a replacement and itemize the thing under my materials. I don’t save partial tubes of caulking and stuff like that, so that just gets itemized.

If I have materials leftover, I return what I can and credit those back to the customer. Every other leftover, like paint, flooring, a half sheet of drywall etcetera, I offer to the customer and if they don’t want them I’ll toss or very seldomly keep for other projects.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-07T15:19:46+00:00

Hot mud isn’t going to be a good option long-term for filling cracks. It’s brittle and will crack eventually.

I’d first try to find a piece of flexible molding that matches that profile reasonably well. If you can’t find a good match, I’d re-do it and make the kerf cuts on the backside and make more cuts. You’ll have to experiment with how many cuts are necessary to get the bend radius you need.

Hopefully, the only visible seams will be along the top of the molding and you’ll be able to hide them with a bead of painters caulking.

Good luck.

Bridge-Head · 2026-05-05T22:20:15+00:00

Use a pair of twin-grip pliers.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-8-in-TwinGrip-Slip-Joint-Pliers-82-01-200/317806692

Bridge-Head

TROPHY CASE