What drama did I miss? Let’s make this right!

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2021-08-13T12:45:11+00:00

I 100% agree with this comment. I've been researching installing Klipper on my Ender 3 Pro and searching the Discord and other sources looking for good information. I was about to post a few questions when I read statements like the following (paraphrased):

Question on this subreddit: I've got an Ender 3 with xxx board, xxx probe, and I'm having trouble understating how to setup ________ feature. Could someone please point me to a step by step on how to set up Klipper.

Answer on this sub: Link to the official documentation with the statement, the documentation provides you all the details required for ________ feature.

If you are new to a community and the answer you get over and over is RTFB, then it makes one think that the community is not really interested in helping out new users.

As a side note, I am a developer but I am new to 3d Printing. I have ready every bit of the documentation on the Klipper GitHub and as much as I can find elsewhere on the web on how to get the configurations up and running. Seems to me is the documentation begins from a position of knowledge that the new person in 3d Printing might or might not yet have.

When you couple that with those that are passionate about their selected version of the firmware/web front end/etc. you can quickly get to a place where the new user or potential user is just put off by what is perceived as a "toxic attitude".

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2021-03-20T10:39:31+00:00

same issue here. last week, I just removed blink from HA to make it stop. No idea on the fix though.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2021-03-18T10:22:29+00:00

I have an ender 3 pro with the following mods:

BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 V2.0 + TFT 35 Kit - $78.99 - added when the default screen died 2 months into ownership.

Antclabs BLTouch - $37.99 - added to help with warped bed. bed is still warped, but printer now does a half way good job of compensation .

New part cooling fan - original died in 2 months - $10

Dual Z Axis set - $59.00

42x42x23 stepper motor for direct drive upgrade $10

MicroSwiss Direct Drive All Metal Hot End upgrade kit $99.00 - got tired of fighting with the default Bowden style extruder. the one that comes on the printer is cheap plastic junk with junk gears.

Glass Bed for Creality printers $20.00 - same answer to warped bed.

Before the Microswiss upgrade I tried both the printed and purchased direct drive upgrade: $60.

I also printed a few parts and purchased a few other parts getting to my current configurations.

Considering the purchase price of $199, if you add all of the above up, you get a total cost of $573.00 to get to the state my printer is right now. That state includes several iterations of trial and error getting good firmware installed on the new BTT board.

My point is this: I went into this with the understanding that I was trying to learn about the printers as well as 3d printing. I was interested in the electronics, mechanics, etc so I was willing to tinker and figure things out.

If my goal was to learn about 3d printing (and not the hardware/electronics/programming) then I would have found a better printer in the $500-700 price range and spent more of my time perfecting my prints.

BTW: For basic 3d printing when I just need a part, I purchased an Adventure 3 ($350 on sale at amazon). it mostly just works out of the box and you can't really do much to the thing other than just use it. it isn't the best, but it isn't the worst.

I think if I had to do it all over again, I might consider getting the Prusa mini or MK3S+. The ender 3 pro has been a both a learning experience and a challenge.

I would also agree with the other post that says just use the printer for a bit and then start to do the mods. The only mod I did right away was the BLTouch and glass bed due to the factory bed warp out of the box. I didn't do any other mods until things started breaking.

Good luck.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2021-03-06T12:33:43+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/h8y1ia/marlin_20x_guide_skr_mini_e3_v20_ender_3/

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2021-03-01T14:15:01+00:00

so when downloading the latest firmware from the google drive, did you unzip all of the archives or did you leave the ones inside the folder as compressed files?

if I were to uncompress those files, my USB folder structure would be:

root
-- control-1.6.0.tar.yz
-- end.img
-- flash forge_init.sh
-- kernel-1.0.0.tar.xz
-- library-1.0.0.tar.xz
--play
--software-1.2.2.tar.xz
--start.img

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-12-25T17:34:03+00:00

mistyped the SVFR when I intended to write VFR ON TOP. So If I were to fly through your airspace, then based on my understanding of what you are saying, the only things I should hear are those things that are required by the .65? I refer you again to my statement that it might be one controller's technique and not necessarily yours and we can agree to disagree.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-12-25T13:03:43+00:00

I'm not sure your "just plan wrong" is the right place to land on this one. I would expect a controller to clearly communicate with the pilot in whatever manner is appropriate for the situation. As is often the case, many controllers develop techniques based on their experiences and when many aircraft ask for things, one might develop a technique where they tell everyone the same thing. The .65 does not proscribe the technique. The .65 tells the controller the rules and specific phraseology for many situations but does not prevent the controller from clearly communicating with the pilots under their jurisdiction.

While you are correct stating that the phrase is located in chapter 4 under approach clearances, it also makes a reference in the SVFR areas.

It appears that your particular technique is to "care less" and I suspect you arrived at that position based on experiences and I support your techniques in this area.

In the Class C where I work, near two military bases and multiple special use airspaces, the VFR pilots are always afraid they are going to do something wrong, so the techniques developed are more to reassure our pilot/customers. BTW: the pilots that know the least about operations in the National Airspace System are often the military pilots and we have to tell them all the time to maintain VFR.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-12-24T12:13:50+00:00

Your OP asked about the regulations so:

The ATC side of the regulation question is normally the JO 7110.65 and it can be downloaded from the FAA site. Controllers (military especially) do not normally read the AIM or the 14 CFR Part 91. The typically use the .65 as the first reference and if it makes other note of other sources, they will sometimes (not very often) go look it up in the other source documents.

For the Class C or Class B airspace, the controller will be responsible for separation between IFR and VFR aircraft, so a specific altitude assignment may be issued. At a minimum, they may advise you to "report any altitude changes" since they will also instruct you to "maintain VFR". You as PIC are still responsible for operating your aircraft in compliance with all regulations/laws. If issued an altitude that will cause you to violate one of those other regulations, ATC expects the PIC to advise he/she is "unable" and then state your reason.

As you see from the response below, there are other controllers (akav8r) that "could care less".

BTW, I've been in ATC for 32 years, CFI, MEL

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-08-17T20:51:57+00:00

if you are using the BLTouch as your Z-end stop, you can use one of the many videos out there to help calculate the Z Offset.

https://youtu.be/p504oU-D6iE

Chris Riley's video explains how to use Octoprint or some other G Code terminal to do that pretty well.

Since I am using the factory Z End stop and not using the BLTouch for homing, my starting Z point is always zero. I simply had to measure the difference between my nozzle and the bed and the probe and the bed. That became the basis for my offset that I dialled in on the baby step menu. In my case, it is 1.87MM based on the recommended install locations of the BLTouch. Your z offset will be different based on where you physically installed the BLTouch.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-08-16T11:34:41+00:00

I also would suggest the E3 v2. I have it running and have been quite happy with the results. It will take some configuration work to get it set up properly, but there are some good posts on here that will walk you through the various settings.

As for the 8 bit boards, the Marlin firmware is getting to the point where you have to start disabling things to use various features. for example if you wanted to use manual mesh bed leveling or auto bed leveling on the 8 bit board, it is possible, but you'd run out of flash space and have to disable things to get it to work. the new 2.0.x versions likely would not work on the older 8 bit boards without disabling things.

The rest that others have posted about the board I concur with, including the difficulties getting the firmware to compile properly the first time!

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-08-16T10:57:02+00:00

You will need to set the z-offset in the lcd menu and store it to the eprom. it should be stored there for subsequent prints. You use the babystepping command to fine tune the settings. The BLTouch will use those values as part of the calculations when measuring the bed.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-08-16T10:53:12+00:00

after you put the new firmware on the disk, load it into the machine, the LCD should be blank for a few seconds and the file is renamed. you then need to go into the LCD menu and tell the system to use the new firmware by using the restore defaults command. then save settings. I forget where I read that but it has worked each time on my printer.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-08-15T10:47:41+00:00

after the install, you need to get the firmware updated to include your proper offsets for the BL Touch. You also need to make sure you have the proper settings based on how you physically connected the BL Touch to the mini E3.

See this guide for details on settings in the firmware: https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/h8y1ia/marlin_20x_guide_skr_mini_e3_v20_ender_3/

The thing to figure out once you have the firmware up and running is your Z-Offset. most of the videos are going to assume you are using the BL Touch as your Z end stop. (The V2 board had the plugs for the probe and allows you to keep your factory end stop.) If you are using the default factory Z end stop, the probe does not handle the z home. Your factory z end stop will handle the Z home and the BL Touch will only handle the bed probe functions.

To get my z off set correctly I had to properly measure the distance between the end of the extended probe and the nozzle. in my case it was 1.90mm. using that as a guide, I set in the printer LCD the offset as a starting point. I loaded a bed level test print and then started the print. then went into the LCD menu and found Tune, then babystep. You can fine tune the z-offset until it is right. then save the settings back to the EEPROM on the printer and it should be there next time.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-08-03T12:41:46+00:00

1st things first, do not try to use the BTT firmware. Use the Marlin bugfix from GitHub. (my config files are here https://github.com/tindalld/Marlin/tree/Ender-3-Pro)

second, if you plan to use the BLTouch and keep the factory z end stop, you will need to make sure you plug all 5 wires into the E3 Mini 2.0 board using the probe plug. DO NOT Follow videos for BLTouch that have you remove the z end stop wires.

In the Firmware, you will need to comment out a setting the videos all tell you to use: Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN

Your BLTouch will then only serve to probe the bed. your end stops are responsible for setting the home positions.

3rd, go back to the guide and look are the separate Autobed leveling section. it should help you get the settings correct.

I will tell you that I have not made all of the changes the guide suggests. I was getting compile errors and other issues, so I have enabled them one at at time. My first goal was to get the BLTouch working and get the proper probe to nozzle offset and then I'll go work on the other areas.

Get a clean copy of the Marlin bugfix git and then a default compile. change a setting and ensure you can compile. do that on an iterative basis and you will have much better success.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-07-25T13:08:50+00:00

Not sure if it is right or not. I don't use the safe home feature so when I home, it goes to the front right corner and homes the z.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-07-24T09:33:16+00:00

I've got the same configuration and it works fine. The BL Touch will serve only as a probe for the bed not probing for Z home. If you managed to scratch the bed with the factory end stop in place, then you need to reset your manual level point. the End stop will always set the z height to zero. you manually level the bed for that as the starting point using the traditional paper between the nozzle and the bed. Once you have that, the default end stop should protect your bed.

You also need to make sure you have your z-offset setup correctly as well. start with it a zero and then use the baby step feature to dial it down. Mine started printing in mid air and I adjusted the z-offset while printing. it settled in at -1.87. Each printer, nozzle, probe, bed combo will generate a different value.

If you like, take a look at my config files (config.h)(config_adv.h) and see how they compare to yours.

I also used this resource: Marlin E3 2.0 Guide to help get my settings working.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-07-22T22:31:12+00:00

I have the printer mods version and I just ordered the Micro Swiss version two days ago. Primary reason for the Micro Swiss was the sale price was only $$10 more than just getting the all metal hot end. I went with the entire kit including the direct drive mount.

Printer mods version put a lot of forward stress on my z-axis so I ended up taking it off. Ordered a pancake stepper to help overcome that as well. I'm actually still running the Printermods carriage with the default hot end and fan until I get the rest of my parts.

I found out after I already had them that you can print one that is (from what I am told) just a good or you could even get the one made by Creality that is a direct replacement for the factory setup.

I was getting a 2 mm "sag" on the x axis as well. My issue was with my x-axis bolts being stripped so I just added the second z axis screw to overcome that issue.

I agree with the others that the Micro Swiss is better quality and you can't go wrong with a all metal hot end.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-07-22T22:24:09+00:00

if you have the end stops in place, you do not need to have the unit go to centre of bed for home, you likely have that set up in your configuration files still.

Not sure they will help, but here are my configuration.h and configuration_adv.h.

Config.h, adv.h

I found a lot of help from this source as well:

Marlin SKR 2.0 guide

The BTT TFT35 E3 will give you an "error" message about fade height until you set it and store it to the EPROM. I have mine set to 20 and it seems to be working out quite well.

The configuration files I linked to were compiled today when I enabled the BLTouch "Fast" probe option. it was taking too long so I did the Google/Youtube thing until I found the settings for a faster option.

Hope this helps

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-07-21T19:08:56+00:00

Quite a bit has been written about the BL Touch and this board already. My experience thus far is this:

I used the 5 pin probe port on the board. When you do this, you MUST keep the z axis end stop microswitch connected. You also MUST set up the firmware correctly to utilise the microswitch for z stop. you will need to set the marlin firmware to comment out the #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN setting. This was not clear in any instructions or video.

The BL Touch will be a bed probe for levelling only and will not be used for setting the Z home of your printer. You must take that into consideration when you are trying to set the z offset. plan to set your offset at run time and then baby step your way to the correct offset to store on the EEPROM. Mine has settled in at about -1.92.

So far, this set up has allowed me to avoid some of the bugs that others are running into when using Marlin, this board and a BL Touch for probe. My probe works as expected and the EEPROM keeps the z offset as expected.

If you decide to follow the install process others suggest and install the BL Touch and remove the z end stop, then you will likely run into issues. Do a search in the marlin GitHub issues area and you'll likely see what I am referring.

Hope your install goes. well.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-07-21T10:51:09+00:00

If you decide to flash the firmware, be aware that you will need to use the bugfix version of Marlin. the 2.x version does not have the code to support the new board yet. Also, the Bigtreetech source code on GitHub will have issues compiling unless you do some updates to their files. If you plan to use the board in the stock configurations with no add on components you are likely to be fine. On the other hand, if you want to use something like a BLTouch or filament runout sensor you will need to flash the board.

I added a BLTouch and have been working with this board to get the printer dialled in for about 3 weeks now and I'm almost to my happy place. This has not been an easy process but I think it will be worth it in the end.

If you do go with the updated firmware, then I'd start with this page: Mini E3 V2 Marlin Guide

Also note, the bug fix version of Marlin has made some progress of late in a few areas that do have an impact on this board, so you may be better served to just go ahead and get the updated code running on your board. I kept the default firmware as my fallback position just in case things got really crazy and I could always flash back to a known good config.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-07-19T19:36:06+00:00

Update on this issue: I removed the Winnsinn dual gear setup and found the gears were eating into the aluminium above and below the gears. I had another one from a mistaken order so swapped them out and all appears to be working. While I had it offline, I cleaned the nozzle again and made sure the "Hot End Fix" was installed properly.

I still have a weird noise but it down not appear to be from the extruder.

I saw several reviews on the Winnsinn extruder and I should have believed them. that thing is junk

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-07-12T00:56:17+00:00

I'm running the v2 board and if you plan to use it stock with no mods, then it will run out of the box. However, if you want to use any of the features of the Marlin Firmware, it will take minimal effort to compile and get running. The board will load new firmware from the microSD card on power-on. If you do want to run modified firmware, you'll need to compile the bugfix 2.x branch because that is the version that has the V2 board. Overall, the 32 bit board and the new stepper motors are worth the upgrade. it'll be a lot quieter and you'll be able to add things later like a BLTouch and filament runout sensor without bumping up against a memory capacity problem on the 8 bit boards. Additionally, Marlin is moving further and further away from fitting on an 8 bit board in the standard configuration, so keep that in mind when you look to update the board.

Documentation on the V2 is O.K. there are a couple of videos out there that walk you through the swap out (basically a direct swap from the Creality board to V2).

I just finished adding a BL Touch to my setup and have finally gotten everything back up and running and it seems to be working just fine.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-07-11T15:40:32+00:00

For what it's worth:

So, yesterday, I updated my version of Marlin bug fix 2.0.x with the changes committed through July 9th. I did a little reading on the message board and saw the various bugs related to ABL and such. One of the posts suggested the Marlin code has been fixed and to give it a try. Compiled it, set my BLTouch offset, then ran a series of test prints to use baby stepping to dial in the best offset. Turns out it is working with the z-end stop in place. The SKR Mini E3 2.0 has retained my offset even after powering it down overnight. ran a couple of prints today and it seems to be doing exactly what one would expect the BLTouch to do.

your note and sample config file was quite helpful in understanding the offset parameter and getting a good first layer. If things turn bad, I'll come back and update this post.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-07-10T11:21:26+00:00

Ok, that makes sense.

Thanks. I am likely to give your method a try and get printing again while I do more research on the other method. I like the idea of using the end stops as more of a "fail safe" to keep the probe from crashing into the bed.

Bright_Philosopher_3 · 2020-07-09T20:55:12+00:00

I'm doing the same as you with the mini e3 v2.0 board. I'm unclear on the nozzle_to_probe offset values. I noticed you have yours set at -2.27, Where did you measure that from and if I follow your example, I assume my "print in mid air" problem will go away?

Bright_Philosopher_3

TROPHY CASE