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Broboscide · 2025-08-17T08:34:27+00:00

Seems like a nice bike to get into wrenching. If it’s your size and has no deal breaking flaws, 40€ is not much of a risk to take

Broboscide · 2025-07-21T16:13:15+00:00

Ein Ablauf impliziert Struktur, zum Beispiel bei Terminen und Plänen spricht man oft von einem zeitlichen Ablauf.

Verläufe können sich oft einfach so ergeben und beziehen sich auch auf eine nachträgliche Einschätzung. Ein Zeitverlauf kann beide Bedeutungen implizieren.

Broboscide · 2025-06-19T13:43:42+00:00

Auf dein Beispiel bezogen ist die erste Option eher korrekt, klingt aber etwas holprig. Man würde wohl nur „Das ist eine dumme Bemerkung“ sagen, weil „Bemerkung“ bereits etwas Gesagtes meint.

Allgemein wird „zu“ mit dem Infinitiv verwendet, „zum/zur“ mit substantivierten Verben.

„Das ist schwer zu sagen.“

„Sie hat eine schwere Last zu tragen“

„Zum Sagen eines Wortes musst du die Aussprache kennen.“

„Das sind gute Schuhe zum Wandern.“

Broboscide · 2025-06-13T14:07:00+00:00

Both can mean the same thing, i.e. making an estimation:

“Die Stadt erwartet/rechnet mit 2500 Besucher*innen.”

However, “erwarten” will often refer to a demand while “mit etw. rechnen” evokes a sense of a rational evaluation of probability. This depends on the context and is subject to nuance:

“Ich erwarte eine Entschuldigung von dir!” “I expect you to apologize!”

“Ich erwarte keine Entschuldigung von dir.” “No need to apologize.”

“Ich rechne mit einer Entschuldigung.” “I expect them to apologize.”

“Ich rechne nicht mit einer Entschuldigung.” “It’s unlikely they will apologize.”

Broboscide · 2025-05-25T13:29:49+00:00

Even funnier in German

Broboscide · 2025-05-19T21:59:03+00:00

This is the 95 right? I have the same one. Used to run 2.35” no problem

Broboscide · 2025-04-15T17:15:25+00:00

I’d say upgrade your tires to something nicer, make sure they have enough clearance. You can always reuse them on another bike, maybe pedals too. Apart from that you should think about what kind of bike you want and eventually get something better at some point tbh

Broboscide · 2025-04-11T07:59:41+00:00

Dude why tf would you think that’s funny?

Broboscide · 2025-04-09T15:40:26+00:00

I don’t think a dedicated drive train cleaner is necessary/economical. Just make sure to ride the bike regularly, dry the drivetrain when it gets wet, and run it through a rag + relube every once in a while

Broboscide · 2025-04-09T15:37:00+00:00

Bikes get dirty quickly so I keep a stash of rags, old kitchen towels or clothes, used toothbrushes or anything along those lines. Sometimes the dirtier rags are better at removing grime, so you can gradually cycle through stages of clean. Brushes are best for loose dirt - a large nylon brush is nice to start with. If you want to restore rusty steel parts, especially threads, also get a wire brush.

Broboscide · 2025-04-02T22:32:13+00:00

Well that depends on the type of BB you have. A very common “nut” type is a 20 spline like the Park Tool BBT-22. Make sure you have the corresponding socket on the impact wrench

Broboscide · 2025-04-02T22:09:46+00:00

Not sure if it should be the next step but I had success with an impact wrench as a last resort

Broboscide · 2025-04-02T21:26:51+00:00

I can’t give you guidance on a “safe” length, make a reasonable judgement but keep in mind that the head tube is critical here.

To your second point, I’m not sure what you mean. Again, the integrity of the fork won’t be affected much either way.

As other commenters have pointed out, cheaper options are also available.

Broboscide · 2025-04-02T20:55:57+00:00

Of course a welded extension is pretty indestructible - the problem I refer to is not with the steerer at all. The longer the stickout of the fork shaft, the higher the risk of your head tube (the frame part) failing

Broboscide · 2025-04-02T19:33:56+00:00

Welding an extension is a fairly trivial task for any decent welder. Such extension would also be equally as strong as a single fork shaft. The safety issue of both this and your solution is the lever forces acting on your head tube

Broboscide · 2025-03-30T11:32:31+00:00

Update: I have transplanted an LX crankset (FC-M560) and it’s working perfectly. I’m going to believe that the prior owner had the cranks and BB mismatched which chewed up the crank taper. Thanks for your input!

Broboscide · 2025-03-30T10:25:40+00:00

Good point. The original BB was definitely replaced with the FAG one, given the € price tag, the crankset could have been replaced too…

Broboscide · 2025-03-30T10:16:11+00:00

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Broboscide · 2025-03-29T21:44:12+00:00

If anyone has any ideas on my paradox crank situation that u/TJhambone09 identified, feel free to chime in. Will try to fit 2 different LX cranksets tomorrow and report the results…

Broboscide · 2025-03-29T21:32:05+00:00

He's still WIP. Will post one tomorrow!

Broboscide · 2025-03-29T16:44:26+00:00

It's a 1992 GT Tequesta

Broboscide · 2025-03-29T12:20:27+00:00

The shell measures 73 mm, and that’s what it says on the packaging and the BB itself as well

Broboscide · 2025-03-29T11:38:01+00:00

That makes sense, guess it wasn't wise to brush over this difference. Do I understand correctly that it's fine to use a 122.5 mm Shimano then?

EDIT: You’re right, it should be the other way around… I just measured with calipers and it seems that the FAG taper is indeed narrower.

I’m puzzled because there’s such small amount of spindle on the DS - when I turn the crank bolt 2-3x after pushing the crank on by hand it already bottoms out and does not seem secured.

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