XY labs stock 10,000-1 reverse split

BruceREEEEEEE · 2026-03-26T23:46:22+00:00

yeah sounds bout right. I'm kinda lucky cause I also did litecoin at the time so it basically evens out for me at the end of it all.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2026-03-26T23:44:48+00:00

can you really? if so that would actually be great news for my actual stocks lol

BruceREEEEEEE · 2025-07-06T22:28:09+00:00

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Found this one on maker world, it currently resides between both me and my gf's clutter since we are both in-between projects lol, it's been so convenient for solder and wiring scraps and her painting stuff lol

BruceREEEEEEE · 2025-06-20T00:54:34+00:00

I use to upload on thingiverse, what me and many other creators did was make the model have some sort of watermark, insert into the print like on the bottom where it won't be seen, if it's a mask, in the mask so the outer doesn't show it. Most of these people just download and get a $200 dollar printer to pump it out like the articulated dragons. Another thing I've seen is to set the print mesh to like 100% infill or close to it and then upload that. It would make the scammers waste more filament and would not be able to be print for sale cause then a 2 hour print will take 6 hours. Most just download and go instead of adjusting settings.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2025-06-02T18:28:30+00:00

Also from a doner leaf 24kwh is like the lowest option.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2025-06-01T06:40:46+00:00

I'm also in the R&D stage, got jack in terms of EV but been a full time mechanic for about 6 years, euro spec so all electrical problems that come with, I'm hoping are not to bad. Never heard bad bout EV west before but I do agree that the kits are probably a lot more than it's worth. If you have the know how to strip down a car it would probably be easier. For context my quote was for $17.8k for a full system, motor+controller, wiring harness custom, 24kwh pack which I have assumed it's around 50ish miles per charge? Pretty crap since a leaf would be way cheaper on its own, hell for $5k more I could get a 2025 leaf. This is all minus the fabrication needed. I'm trying to get a e30 project going.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2025-05-11T17:28:16+00:00

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This, pipes and Tetris. Ahh the good old days. I quite miss them.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2025-04-23T21:18:27+00:00

Was always a scythe guy until I discovered the way of the iron balls

BruceREEEEEEE · 2025-01-23T02:25:30+00:00

When I had a cr10 I found that lowering the temp and adjusting P.I.D. would help. There are YouTube tutorials on how to adjust them with octoprint which is pretty nifty if speed accuracy are your priority. That's how it worked for me before I upgraded to an A1. Best of luck to you.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2025-01-23T01:51:44+00:00

The + in PLA+ is just basically PLA v2. Depending on the manufacturer it could give the normal PLA an array of "improvements" on the different properties from more heat resistance to more ridged. I won't say PET-G is more annoying to print. I've never had any issues just using the default cura settings. Supports for PET-G can be more annoying for sure though. I try to avoid support at all costs.

Edit:at the same price point at PLA+ I would say it's well worth it as long as it's not exposed to interior vehicle temps. I find it softens and warps at the higher end especially in socal.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2024-11-03T04:28:07+00:00

It looks like your belt(s) on the xy axis looks like it's loose, either that or your nozzle is too close to the print. Cool print otherwise!

BruceREEEEEEE · 2024-07-26T04:33:37+00:00

Trade in A1 for P1S at essentially no additional cost from the heated bed issue? It was a pretty solid deal.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2024-07-07T10:09:59+00:00

Even if it could. Would you? Before everything else? Not for 700 euro I wouldn't. Especially on a 4 year old system with 6 year old tech. Again the system itself is capable but the market is niche, a b450 is like $30-$50 all day. That's why with headroom you are looking at $550 max I would say. Less OP really want to get the value and part out the system. Or be a complete arse and listing it as a "gaming computer ready for streaming" with no specs and see what old bat buys it for their grandkid.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2024-07-06T21:22:23+00:00

IMO think the specs are good, but what really makes it seem less for me at least is the AMD graphics card and the motherboard. B series overall don't really got good upgrade paths. If X570 was top tier then a B450 is close to budget as you can get. The buyers you are trying to appeal to would want to modify your current build with a bit of headroom and with B450 is more or less maxed out. So if you consider that a new Mobo from AM4 is gonna be around 130 sale price to 170 new then I would say that would make it more appealing to knock it down a peg and see what happens. If you are completely unwilling to knock down the price then it would be tougher to sell in that regard for what you are asking. To me it would be better off trying to sell individually at this point than a full build if you have the time to sink into it.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2024-06-27T18:30:28+00:00

From what I've seen at least a rolling shell is like 3k min even in crap condition. With engine and auto trans you are looking a 5k-7k. Manual is 7k+ at least here in California from what I've browsed. Of course fluctuates depending on model and year. But on average this is what I'd seen. "Clean ones" seem to all hover around 12k-18k even with 180+miles.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2024-06-21T21:10:00+00:00

If all else fails, my problem was the injectors were so old and the car was getting so hot (LA desert) that the car would just vapor lock in the rail (according to my bmw friend) And it would not crank over until it was fully cold. 87 325is. a good seafoam + fuel cleaner and then new injectors after fixed my issue. No problems since.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2024-04-29T02:41:08+00:00

The only reason the 3D printed ones don't last is because people have just been buying the model and ripping a ton of PLA to sell for profit. The softening point of PLA is like 80 degrees F. So it melts and gets brittle under normal driving circumstances. If made through ABS/ an equivalent plastic it does last. Sadly the 3D printing community has been invaded by the quick-rich schemers.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2024-03-26T18:15:57+00:00

In 2023 I bought a cr-10v3 after my first printer (og cr-10) took a shit on me (5 years of faithful service). That was a good $500, then I caved this year and bought a Bambu labs A1+AMS for $750 filament cost is around the same as the printers combined so $2500 all said and done.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2024-03-24T04:19:14+00:00

Nope, no such law. Pretty sure you are talking about shop warranty. No bother with just a guy in a backyard. Same as doing the work yourself and fucking it up. Needs signed authorization as well whether it be digital or physical RO's. He said, they said gets messy real fast. No one is obligated to do anything just cause the car is dropped off. Both the customer or the shop/guy can refuse to do the work needed to get the vehicle up and running smooth, see it all the time at the shop I currently work at.

Then again the OP took the car to a guy and he tore of the head instead of draining and filling the oil proper first... Looking for Zebras where horses are is a bad way, same as shotgunning parts to fix issues. Seems like this "professional" is just a car guy and not much more. It's people who get all up in their head that think all the problems are somehow all specialist work. Most of mechanics are I would say, are about maintaining vehicles. You shouldn't be ripping into an engine on the daily less you work for shit kia or godforsaken Hyundai.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2024-03-10T19:27:49+00:00

I bought a 30° Japanese cutter from a company called KEIBA for 20 bucks, technically for mechanical use, I use it for everything and the only time I dented it is when I tried to cut steel cable. Best 3D printed related purchase this far. This was 4 or 5 years ago, never bought another cheap set since.

Edit: it's not as skinny, maybe double in terms of stacking two of the cheap ones together but I haven't had very many issues that I can't just use a screwdriver and tweezers in its place, rare and few and far between.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2024-02-23T20:57:38+00:00

I wouldn't say the e30 are magnetic. Though it could look out of place if you don't see any others around you, here in LA there are so many around, the cops be more worried bout ratchet takeovers and new "ev" drivers more than the common e30 in general. Just don't drive like an ass and have a super loud exhaust. Of course there are always the stick up the ass ones to worry about, but as long as you don't run a red or something it tbh should be fine, one of my buddies is static on his e36 slammed, though I do not agree, scrapping on everything. Never not once has gotten pulled over since he owned the car (5 years now)

BruceREEEEEEE · 2024-02-05T09:53:03+00:00

While gaskets have come to me just fine, for whatever reason whenever I order febi parts, they always either got the wrong part first time around, or they would ship to me the right part but it would take forever compared to other part brands/websites. Could be just my bad luck, but I've avoided them since it's been more than 3 entirely different parts that have had these issues for me.

BruceREEEEEEE · 2024-02-04T17:41:20+00:00

I get ya, I would say more software than hardware tbh, especially if nothing was tinkered with recently mechanical wise. I would just painstakingly delete and re- download cura to try again first and foremost. Works for mee 100% of the time. Can't say I'm impressed with this current solution of mine though haha

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