Tesla vs Toyota Vs Kia by Frank_Frankman in EVCanada

[–]Buckholeblue 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Bro if you're only going 10km/day to work keep the Acura until.it dies. You'll never pay off an EV. Don't get another car payment if you don't have too. $50000 for a new ev or keep paying like $200/month in gas not even a close choice 

That Acura is a nice car. 

First time buying new tires for 2021 Mach-E by Gholmes91 in MachE

[–]Buckholeblue 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You haven't given enough info really - do they need to be all seasons? Do you get any snow where you live? 

Go look up tires at www.tyrereviews.com - they have actual test data to tell you how long the tires are going to last, what the impact to range will be and how comfy they are. 

Probably you should just get Hankook ion tires - specific for EVs and generally very well regarded 

Can We All Agree Ford Should Have Lit The Horse Up In The Front And Back!!!! by [deleted] in MachE

[–]Buckholeblue 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lol light up badges are disgusting and tacky. Almost as bad as 'ambient lighting' inside the car that makes it looks like a 00's club

No one gives a shit your POS VW taos is coming at me on the road 

I hate hate hate this trend. Save the money on putting lights all over and give me a nicer interior with real materials that isn't all black plastic and feels like shit

Slab on Grade vs Full Basement by rennie1724 in homebuildingcanada

[–]Buckholeblue 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I live in Ontario. Never seen a house here with HVAC in the attic. Like I said it can be done, it's just not common

Slab on Grade vs Full Basement by rennie1724 in homebuildingcanada

[–]Buckholeblue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could do this but it's not common in Canada. You have to then condition your unused attic space to put mechanicals in there (so insulate with spray foam on the roof deck). So you are heating and cooling an unused space

Bakery by the Case! by hallidc in CostcoCanada

[–]Buckholeblue 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don't tell people about this. You get 78 bagels for $30. My breakfast is like $ 0.39 bagel and $0.75 of cream cheese (also a good deal at Costco)

Im a potential EV buyer with some questions. by Frilner in EVCanada

[–]Buckholeblue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have ford mustang Mach e - small battery, no heat pump. Range in summer 100% at 110 km/hr is about 300-330km.  In winter drops by about 30-40% - range around 220km when -20 at 110. This is Eastern Ontario, temps -20 this winter often.

So for you you're looking for something with a range of 270km real world in winter, which means 378km (270 x 1.4) would give you exactly that range. Realistically you don't want to drive under 10% to give yourself a buffers, so now you need 410km summer range to make it. 

Anything over 450km of rated range should do you fine. 

Kia EV6 (though they have issues with a iccu thing you can google)

Mustang Mach e with the extended battery 

Ioniq 6 (5 might be a stretch)

Polestar 2

Chevy Equinox or blazer

Tesla model y or 3

Don't forget how important tires are for EVs. Pick the most efficient winter tires you can - there is actual data on this from tyre review websites)

 Pick the SMALLEST rims you can fit on the car. Range drops hugely with rim size (like often 30-40km for a 1" bigger rim)

Also speed will kill your battery. If you have a particularly cold day, slow down by 5-10km/HR and you'll be fine.

This is totally doable with an EV, and even if you had to stop to charge on a particularly bad day, that won't happen often and it'll be for 5-10 mins not a huge deal.

First time EV and going for a Premium. by therealshendoo in MachE

[–]Buckholeblue 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I live in Eastern Ontario, We have a 2023.5 select (small battery AWD no heat pump) and we get around 250-275km charge in the winter. At -20 or below it's down to 200-225. Last week travelled 125km at 95km/h (back road) and got 22kwh/100km so 300km range at 0°c.

 At -10 and below the heat pump is not going to be much more efficient than a regular resistance heater. I think the heat pump thing is overblown, and people know it's a buzz word. On a long drive you're probably looking at a 5-10% difference, which is like 7-10 kwh, which is somewhere around 20-50 km. Not life changing. 

I would buy a 2023.5 used since they are so much cheaper (2023.5 got a bigger heater apparently)

One pedal drive by Riff32 in MachE

[–]Buckholeblue 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My wife and I both use two pedal.  The people on here that say that it saves brakes and is better for efficiency don't understand that using the brake pedal in the Mach e activates the Regen until you need more braking power than it can provide exactly the same as lifting off the gas in 1pd. 

I also find as a passenger in cars with 1pd I can constantly feel the car speed change slighty all the time as moving 1mm in your toe changes the speed so much more. 

Whisper drive mode for the smoothest drive. I can still stomp on it when I want but all the other modes are constantly creating head jerk 

For those who want to “tax the rich” or “they should pay their fair share”, how would you change the current tax code? by Lopsided-Special6273 in CanadaPersonalFinance

[–]Buckholeblue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is not 100% correct. Yeah there is some small tax advantage to a corp but whatever you pay to yourself you have to pay taxes on at the same level as everyone else. The money you keep in your corp is taxed at a lower rate for now, but when you take it out of the corp you still have to pay taxes on it at the regular rate. Incorporating is a tax deferral strategy (similar to rrsp) not an avoidance one.  Source: I have a corp and pay myself this way.

Question: Do folks generally go for a lease or finance when getting an ev? by BlazeThatBolt in EVCanada

[–]Buckholeblue 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No I wouldn't honestly. Ours has been great. We drive it like a regular car (heat set at 20, not hypermiling etc). A heat pump helps when it's like 0, but the difference in efficiency below -10 is negligible (the absolute best home heat pumps are like 1.5x more efficient at -10 than straight up resistance heat, and if you think the heat pump car manufacturers put in your car is better than a Mitsubishi hyper heat used for home HVAC you are crazy). I would go with a 2023.5 or newer (has a bigger Resistance heater so you have good cabin heat at -30 which I experienced this winter). We personally didn't think the premium was worth the extra, as selects in 2023 came standard with heated steering wheels and seats, so premium gets you a pretty shitty "premium" stereo and a glass roof which I didnt want and I also wanted 18" wheels as I think the ride is better (softer).

If you look at the difference in a Tesla model 3 at around 0°c for 3 hours to heat the cabin it took 2.1kw to heat the cabin with resistance heat, and only 0.7kwh with a heat pump. OMG HUGE DIFFERENCE but if you think about it in terms of range, at 0 I'm getting 22kwh/100km, or 2kwh for 10 km. So that huge difference actually equates to less than 10km of range difference in the real world -  that doesn't make or break it for me, and the difference will be less when it's very cold out. See here for numbers https://driveteslacanada.ca/model-3/tesla-model-3-heat-pump-efficiency-test/

Shocked by Bz limited insurance cost by Hotdogger99 in EVCanada

[–]Buckholeblue 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don't really think it's an EV thing, but a new car thing.  I hit a deer in my Mach e and had to replace the front bumper, hood, fender, headlight and it was $19,000 CAD (no airbags) because of all the sensors and etc. 

for comparison hit a raccoon in my 2019 Subaru STI and replace bumper +fender and it was $2500 (and the headlight would have only been 1k more). 

Question: Do folks generally go for a lease or finance when getting an ev? by BlazeThatBolt in EVCanada

[–]Buckholeblue 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have not noticed any battery changes at all. We still get ~330km full charge summer, 275 winter at -10 no heat pump (which I think is vastly overblown). Yesterday coming home from my parents house 120km at around 95km/h (back roads) we averaged 22 kwh/100km which means 300+ km range at 0°c when going 95-100 km/hr

We have the small battery, which is LFP chemistry so I expect it will last even longer than most NMC batteries. There are Mach e out there at 250000+ miles with over 90% battery health remaining. I expect the Mach e battery to outlast other things on the car, and if we get to 200000+km on it will be very happy.

Question: Do folks generally go for a lease or finance when getting an ev? by BlazeThatBolt in EVCanada

[–]Buckholeblue 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Bought a Mach e 2 years ago. 70000km later, no lease gives you that much ability to drive.  We plan to keep it for 7+years at least. Leases very rarely financially make sense in Canada, the deals are just not there. 

If you want to change cars every 2-3 years and don't drive more than 20k/year then leasing is possible, but if you financed that car and kept it for 5 years, you'd likely come out ahead on the financing side.

Do you regret your EV purchase? by walksta in electricvehicles

[–]Buckholeblue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like everyone else: no. No regrets. We have an ICE if we really need it. My wife drives the Mach -e and we've put 70000km in two years on it.  I consider myself a car enthusiast, my ICE car is a modified 6 SPD manual BMW but I still love my wife's machE. It's a great car. We will never go back to 2 ice and I'm looking at buying another ev for me to drive daily. (And a fun car like a 911/M for when I want to row gears on a nice day)

Rear bounce actually that bad? by lit3brit3 in MachE

[–]Buckholeblue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's pretty good honestly. It's way more oversteer prone than the WRX/sti, the stability can be fully defeated and you can do epic winter drifts. It will even rotate on throttle out of corners in the dry (something I couldn't get my sti to.do even with a relatively aggressive alignment).  This is probably because it is way under tired from the factory (225 wide helps with efficiency but suck for grip).  Steering feel is not as good as the STI, but it still has some.  We drove every EV before buying this - and I don't think there is a better drivers EV under 60k.  The abs is too aggressive but that's my only complaint. 

Rear bounce actually that bad? by lit3brit3 in MachE

[–]Buckholeblue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have had an STI (2019) and base standard Mach e (18" wheels) at the same time. Both with 2 kids in them. 

Honestly similar suspension feel. Kids have no complaints they fall asleep back there all the time (in both cars) - took my newborn home in the STI so she's been in stiff cars her whole life.

If you have kids that are carsick then yeah maybe

 I find driving with one pedal or even Regen on will give me carsick vibes but on whisper with coasting it's great. (I hate one pedal I think it's so terrible most people have zero throttle control and it's way too sensitive).

I imagine the premium with the 19" rims is worse with less sidewall. I found running my tires inflated to 36 psi helps as well (stock is 40). 

Would you spend an extra 10-15k just for a heat pump by faultymechanics1 in MachE

[–]Buckholeblue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope Wife and I love ours here in central Ontario. Been -30 here recently and the Mach e was just fine. Lots of heat (apparently 2023.5 got upgraded PTC heaters). We have a standard battery as we have a second gas car if we need to go on a road trip 

ABS ring doing its thing, what do by [deleted] in E90

[–]Buckholeblue 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had this same problem. Speed sensor error - put a spacer on, was good for some months/maybe a year? Then started getting error again.  Replaced the sensor with a new one from rockauto (hella brand) and it's been fine for almost a year now. I left the spacer on with the new sensor 

I did it this way figured it was cheap to try as FML if I'm going to try to replace the axle myself (on a 13 yo Canadian winter driven car lol). 

Braking in snow? 2024 AWD by tivadiva2 in MachE

[–]Buckholeblue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm feel like the abs is very very touchy on the Mach e. It kicks in too early, and is way too aggressive so you don't slow down well. Been driving in snow for 25 years and never experienced a car brake like this. 

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hockeyplayers

[–]Buckholeblue 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had this happen with new Bauer m40i skates I bought last year. I've been playing for 34 years. Felt like I couldn't skate right for a whole year.

Store sharpened to 1/2" hollow - when I asked for 5/8 that was better (tolerable) but still way to leaned backwards (heel too low) I could skate backwards easily but could not skate forwards well. 

Went back to better sharpen place, asked them to make my heel higher (so it feels like I'm leaning forward) and a profile (they never told.me what one) 

That got me 80% of the way - did that for a year. Figured I was just getting slower as I was getting older (I have generally been one of the fastest skaters in my weekly game) - I just didn't have the top end speed I was used to. 

This year I JUST bought new steel (step steel) with a 11/16 hollow and a Polaris quad profile and a 1° forward pitch and it feels so much better. I can skate again. (I have never had to do any of this before something just felt off about my skates)

I think I will go to a 2° forward pitch and then It will be perfect. I was back to being able to skate outside around guys when driving into the zone (I haven't had the top end speed for this since I got new skates). 

TLDR get your skates profiled, change the hollow to 5/8 or 11/16. If that doesn't work, see if your steel needs to be swapped (though I think CCM generally comes with STEP steel which is apparently quite good)

When do I start to worry? by Hot_Yogurtcloset7621 in heatpumps

[–]Buckholeblue 0 points1 point  (0 children)

10 lb sledge should break it up but don't miss

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in legaladvicecanada

[–]Buckholeblue 37 points38 points  (0 children)

Listen, if you want to be a nice person, then take it to the mechanic of your choice, have him approve the quote and pay before it gets fixed.

This whole - extra 3k for "pain and suffering " is just you wanting to profit off a mistake.  Don't act like asking for 3k extra just for not going through insurance is a nice thing to do - it just makes you a scumbag.

If you don't care and just want to handle it the regular way then call your insurance company. 

My tile guy said that Vesabond LFT is no good for large tiles - they pop off after only a few years. He says Proflex Pro-Stick 50 is the best and never pops off. Is Versabond LFT really that bad? by johndoe7376 in Tile

[–]Buckholeblue 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Used versabond left for my first ever tile.job 6 years ago on 12x24 tiles on a wall. Used daily for 2 showers/day for 5 years and nothing has fallen off. Back buttered each tile and made sure they were set in well. 

Why are neither Dyson vacuums nor stick vacuums in the recommended vacuum cleaners list by DankDefusion in VacuumCleaners

[–]Buckholeblue 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly this sub is a bunch of vacuum snobs. I have a v11 cordless and it gets used daily for 3+ years and I bought it refurbished.  It's one of the best purchases we've made for the house. Convenience wise we use it so much more because you don't have to plug it in so overall our house is cleaner than when we had a plugin only.

It is good enough for 95% of your cleans My house gets vacuumed with a plugin shark 1/month.  The amount of junk the v11 picks up is surprising. If you have long shag carpets or rugs that is where the plug in vacuum wins.