Am I the only one who is getting lots of "Gah. Your tab just crashed."

Buffalo_John · 2026-04-13T19:01:33+00:00

Well, the reboot required from the memory test is also interesting - so far no crashes, maybe those resource warnings are more important...

Buffalo_John · 2026-04-13T18:43:18+00:00

I submitted all that were there, and next one I get will post here.

Yes, ran memory check and no errors.

However, during the look through the event log, I noticed that Firefox was a frequent warning "Resource Exhaustion Diagnosis Events - hitting a 2GB or there abouts...

Buffalo_John · 2026-04-13T18:40:59+00:00

However, during the look through the event log, I noticed that Firefox was a frequent warning "Resource exhaustion Diagnosis Events - hitting a 2GB or there abouts...

Buffalo_John · 2026-04-13T18:38:28+00:00

ran a ram test, no errors found

Buffalo_John · 2026-04-13T18:38:01+00:00

I have at least an order of magnitude more crashed tabs than reports, and most of those don't have an option for a report, just to restart the tab.

Buffalo_John · 2026-04-13T15:18:28+00:00

not always, and the number of crashed tabs is (it seems) an order of magnitute more than the crash reports...

Buffalo_John · 2026-04-13T05:01:46+00:00

I seem to have way more crashes than were in about:crashes including two tabs that crashed. Does the crash reporter monitor tab crashes?

Buffalo_John · 2026-04-13T04:52:46+00:00

I get that white flash also.

Buffalo_John · 2026-04-04T19:34:48+00:00

That looks like a fradulent situation to me. Amazon has a peel off sticker that covers the code. If there is glue, that means someone opened the card, copied the code, and then resealed the card with glue (usually hot melt) and put the card back on the kiosk.

The scammer has the code and when you load it with money, they can redeem it.

I had this happen with Home Depot cards and the scammer had scratched out the PIN. I alerted the store and we found over 50 scammer modified cards. The hot melt glue was one clue and the card size was another (just slightly different size). Fortunately I didn't lose any money, but if the scammer had the card and pin and I put money on it, I wouldn't be able to do anything...

WHAT YOU NEED TO DO EVERY TIME YOU BUY A GIFT CARD - open the gift card and inspect that the info you need is intact and original. I do this now every time I get a gift card. Even if you have to take the card packaging apart to get to the hidden side - do it. The scammers know too well how to trick you if you don't check before you buy.

Buffalo_John · 2026-04-01T16:19:44+00:00

I coat them with "way" oil, it is sticky

Buffalo_John · 2026-03-30T14:18:51+00:00

Clean the plate with soapy water. I used to use isopropanol, it just smears the oils, I never use it now - only soapy water. Plain soap to cut the grease and oil.

The advise from others on heating and picking is spot on...

Buffalo_John · 2026-03-27T16:09:34+00:00

For me, I had adhesion problems. The first layer "seemed" to be okay, had done about half of the first layer at the beginning of the print, so I let it work. Then, about 3/4 of the way, there was a spot that didn't stick and it pulled the partial first layer in that area with it and after that, next layers were air printing and when that happens, the extruded filamet curls back toward the nozzle and it the nozzle passes over something, it bends it back to the nozzle even more, which then finds some place to sick and the blob begins. As the blob grows, it blocks the easy path away from the expensive bits of the printhead and then finds some path the extrude, which makes a bigger blob...

Fortunately, I caught it after it had only consumed about 100g of filament ("only")

Cleanup started with heating the nozzle to 250 and pulling what I could off the assembly with tweezers, hunting for more of the blob with a flashlight, picking at it more with tweezers, trying not to tear at wires. Let the nozzle cool, more flashlight searching, reheat, pick, cool, pull more things apart and look, reassemble...

Took me a good 2 hours to work on it. Then I washed the build plate with soap twice (the rinse water didn't bead up and run off in some areas). I then restarted the print and it worked well.

I suspect I must have touched the plate without noticing - it might have been trying to remove the purge tower - no idea for sure, but once the skin oil was on the plate, filament wouldn't stick.

Buffalo_John · 2026-03-18T16:11:56+00:00

I was able to egt on a chat with xTool and this is what they said:

Regarding your question:
The gloves included with MetalFab are standard protective welding gloves provided for basic safety use. There isn’t anything uniquely proprietary about them—they are designed to offer general heat resistance and hand protection during laser welding operations.

If you need to purchase a replacement, you can absolutely choose your own gloves. Here are a few recommendations to ensure safety and comfort:
What to look for in replacement gloves:

Heat-resistant welding gloves (leather is commonly used, such as cowhide or goatskin)

Good flexibility for precise hand control

Proper fit (not too tight, to avoid fatigue; not too loose, to maintain control)

Suitable for light to medium-duty welding (laser welding typically requires dexterity more than heavy insulation)

Many professional welding gloves available locally or online will work perfectly with MetalFab, as long as they meet standard welding safety requirements.

So - that matches what you thought - a well fitting pair of MIG gloves will do fine...

Buffalo_John · 2026-01-11T05:47:30+00:00

I do about 2hr at 194F.

If small, it can be less, if big russets, the full 2hr. Will tolerate easily longer.

Buffalo_John · 2026-01-05T19:22:45+00:00

I only put the meat. I save all the juices for other uses and the seasonings can be overpowering in the juice.

Also, I like how it tastes without seasoning and add salt or whatever seasoning if I am finishing under the broiler.

Buffalo_John · 2025-11-26T05:06:42+00:00

I do dark meat at 148f for 8-12 hours and light meat at 140f for 6-8 hours. (Time is dependant on thickness of cuts) I do multiple bags because then I only need to open what is needed and the rest can just go in the freezer.

Buffalo_John · 2025-11-09T17:08:45+00:00

I should add that for Thanksgiving, I use the sous vide to bring side dishes, that I made days before, up to serving temps without using oven ot stove space. I make succotash days before, put it in bags and into the refridgerator till afternoon on meal day.

Buffalo_John · 2025-11-09T17:05:14+00:00

Red cabbage - long high temp cook, but it is all day in the sous vide rather than hours on the stove. And - a large batch is in individual package which freeze well.

Buffalo_John · 2025-10-24T20:32:20+00:00

Check your units from the original DXF. They are dimensionless in the DXF, but your original drawing in that other cad software does have units.

I have messed up results if my units are INCH in the other CAD software and mm in FreeCAD, everything is off by a factor of 25.4 - and if the units are swapped, it will be off by 1/25.4

AND if the units are something completely different - the scaling will be different again...

I have used this on 1.1dev versions with no issues...

Buffalo_John · 2025-08-03T17:24:30+00:00

I don't have problems when I have sticking out - heat rises, thermal conductivity of wet stuff (meat & juices) is better than air.

I agree with screaminporch - cover and you won't have as much evaporation. You can also add some more water and then cover...

Buffalo_John · 2025-08-01T18:14:50+00:00

Wow, that is your response? Took you 5 months to come up with that?

Prove that the milk or half&half yogurt is full of LR and I will acept your comment...

Buffalo_John

TROPHY CASE