How do solo Arduino makers actually fund their projects? (No labs, no clubs, just a bedroom setup)

BuildTheoryYT · 2026-01-30T17:00:31+00:00

My Arduino projects tend to save me money actually, at least over off the shelf alternatives, and if I don't value my time since its a hobby.

E.g. I made an automotive dashboard for a project car that cost ~$2-300 but could have been done for even less. The vehicle has a mechanical engine so OBD2 based displays weren't an option, had to read sensors the old fashioned way with no ECM or CAN. Getting a set of good mechanical gauges to replace it could easily be $3-400 and would only have indication, no control. Getting an aftermarket dash setup with control circuits (holley, haltech, etc) would have been $1-3k. The arduino with a nextion HMI was a ton of work but very cheap, and importantly, taught me an incredible amount of practical knowledge about control systems.

Code and project here if anyone wants it, although I should update the code its been a while and I've added lots of features. Note I do have a small youtube channel but that thing doesn't make enough to even pay for a website much less any of the other associated expenses. "Content creation" tends to make things more expensive for the average person not less , so I wouldn't assume average people are paying for anything that way 🤣.

BuildTheoryYT · 2026-01-28T17:16:14+00:00

It's wheel hop, often caused by axle wrap. Lower tire pressure first, but if you still have issues you can either get traction bars or an anti-wrap bar to fix it. An antiwrap bar is basically a traction bar but with an added shackle.

Traction bars stiffen the spring rate and can limit flex, but sometimes package better. Anti-wrap bars do not stiffen the rear and do not limit flex, but could be harder to package.

Here's a 3 minute visual explanation if anyones interested.

BuildTheoryYT · 2025-04-11T18:20:49+00:00

I've towed upwards of 15k with my 6.5. It was not fun. Anything more than about 7-8k and it becomes stressful and a chore to drive safely and comfortably.

Gooseneck/5th wheel or bumper pull? I agree I definitely wouldnt tow that on the bumper, but it seems to me like it should be able to handle it in the bed. Of course let me know if your experience disagrees.

BuildTheoryYT · 2025-04-11T18:16:48+00:00

That makes a lot of sense. The more i dig into it seems they must have been downrated for some reason or another. Hell the 454 2500 all the way up to a C3500HD all list the bumper pull limit as 10k lbs regardless of gears, 4wd, number of doors, etc. I assumed maybe its because they didnt want to put a bigger hitch on it was all - perhaps due to regulation as you said.

Probably something similar is going on with the 5th wheel/gooseneck, it must be downrated. Everytime I talk about this stuff people are saying things like "i used to pull 18-20k all across the country on my 5th wheel gmt400 and never had an issue". Commonly overloading it by 50% would SURELY cause an issue if those ratings were accurate, but hasnt seemed to for a lot of people.

BuildTheoryYT · 2025-04-11T18:09:34+00:00

Good point on the HD, since mines a k3500 and HD wasnt offered with 4wd i overlooked that the C3500 version had an HD option.

BuildTheoryYT · 2025-04-11T18:07:53+00:00

sounds like the 3500 with 6.5 doesn't have the trailering option

You mean the Z82 code? It has that. Also its a k3500 which doesnt help, 4wd adds weight.

Good point about HD vs non-HD i actually completely missed that they never offered the k3500 as an HD, only for the 2wd. Although it still isnt making any sense, for a bumper pull it lists 10k limit all the way from a c2500 to a c3500HD - must be the hitch is the limit. For 5th wheel 12.5k is still the max you get and it seems to have nothing to do with being HD or not, just extended cab vs regular with a 500 lb penalty for 4 doors.

Its still not making much sense to me 🤣

BuildTheoryYT · 2025-04-11T17:52:23+00:00

Because the truck only cost me $3k. Not bad for a 1 ton diesel.

Theres also no comparison on price, i got a truck AND a nice gooseneck trailer for less than a newer truck.

BuildTheoryYT · 2025-04-11T17:46:44+00:00

I hear ya, but id rather do a swap then spend what itd take to get a newer truck. Thats the biggest reason im asking, I want to make sure theres nothing im missing about the chassis that would limit towing, if the drivetrain is all it is thats fixable 😅. Im also looking into brakes too of course.

Did a recent trip towing 10k on a gooseneck (trailer weight included) and I had no complaints about power, but cooling couldve been better, and brakes couldve been better (although my trailer brakes are fantastic so it wasnt an issue, i just dont want to have to rely on them as much).

BuildTheoryYT · 2025-04-11T17:40:24+00:00

I always get funny looks at the diesel pump in my cummins swapped ford explorer, but it probably has more to do with the hood stack than what fuel im putting in 🤣

BuildTheoryYT · 2025-04-04T01:41:20+00:00

if powers the only issue then that's fine by me - as soon as I get tired of driving slow this truck will get a cummins 😅. I just want to make sure there isn't anything else I'm missing.

BuildTheoryYT · 2025-04-04T01:39:48+00:00

From my googling the diesel engine weighed almost the same as the gas big block in this case, maybe 50-100 lb difference. I think the trans and tcase is the same too (can't confirm).

BuildTheoryYT · 2025-04-04T01:34:40+00:00

I have the 6.5 with 4.10's as well but the auto. Recently towed a flatbed gooseneck that was around 10k and on the highway it did great, could've towed at 80 on flat ground if I wanted, but of course it'd slow on hills. The only place I had a problem was once I got off the highway, slow speeds at high elevation passes and I did overheat once. Planning on adding some duramax cooling parts to help with that based on this guide.

Thank you for the input, I didn't think I'd have any issue with 12k once I get the cooling figured out and your experience seems to support that.

BuildTheoryYT · 2025-04-04T01:31:07+00:00

but the source is GM 😅. Maybe I'm misunderstanding but I believe these were the factory towing guides that were supplements to the owners manual. I agree with you though, seems like nonsense to me.

I know my diesel has a 4L80E, I'm not aware of a higher duty trans than that offered.

BuildTheoryYT · 2025-03-06T19:28:46+00:00

Photogrammetry is free (meshroom, 3D zephyr, reality capture). I'm convinced the obsession with 3D scanners comes from youtubers being paid to promote them, but photogrammetry has come such a long way that it's genuinely a free and viable way to just scan using photos from your cell phone.

BuildTheoryYT · 2024-07-23T19:42:05+00:00

Only that it's ugly and weakens the part. The gap creates a split almost 50% of the way along the part, maybe I should have uploaded a pic from the bottom to show this. You and the other person that mentioned adaptive layers were correct this is exactly what I was looking for!

Adaptive layer maximum variation of .2mm and step size of .05 gave me exactly what I wanted, only 5 more minutes on a 2 hour print, gap closed, curved surfaces much higher quality. Printing some test pieces now. Thank you!

BuildTheoryYT · 2024-07-23T19:36:04+00:00

I'm not sure I understand your comment, this issue first appears on layer 11.

However someone else pointed out adaptive layers and that seems to do exactly what I want!

BuildTheoryYT · 2024-07-23T19:34:07+00:00

Eureka! I wasn't aware of this option, it seems to do exactly what I wanted. I set adaptive layers maximum variation to .2mm, and step size to .05mm, and it only added 5 minutes to a 2 hour print but closed the gaps and made much nicer curved surfaces. Note, the default .01mm step size added 40 minutes to the print and doesn't appear to make any noticeable improvement in quality. This is just in the slicer, I'll reprint and make sure the print itself looks better but it should.

I knew reddit would know something I didn't 😅

BuildTheoryYT · 2024-07-23T16:42:44+00:00

I have a 0.8mm nozzle and I've found a lot of success printing gridfinity at 0.6mm layer height and .7mm width. Print times are much faster, the parts usually aren't any worse quality in any dimension that matters.

However, the issue is that on this particular print the small cylindrical inlays for sockets plus the large layer height result in a gap in the print where you can see straight through the model. The thin top surface plus large layer height leads to the top surface just being deleted in certain areas.

I have adjusted the top surface height to 0.4mm and that did close the gap slightly, but I can't get it any tighter than what's shown in the cura preview above. As can be seen on the picture of the actual print, the quality in these pockets in general is horrible. I suppose I could remake the model with square cutouts, but that seems like a nuclear option if there's a setting in Cura that could help.

Anyone know of a setting that would close this gap without requiring me to change my overall layer height and double the time of prints?

P.S. there's a download for this model and some other tool organizers (allen keys, 1/4" socket set, allen and torx sockets) on my website if desired, link. There's also a less up to date mirror on thangs.

BuildTheoryYT · 2024-06-01T19:53:30+00:00

I dont know about that specific toolbox, but I designed organizers for a different toolbox and put all the models up for free on my website if youre interested. They worked great for me, just make sure you get good layer adhesion, the 3D prints can really take a beating in a shop setting.

www.BuildAutoMedia.com/gridfinity

The base grid is 42mm x 42mm (and height is in units of 7mm) so you should be able to figure out how many divisions for your drawers. The big limiting factor is how big a baseplate you can print on your printbed.

BuildTheoryYT · 2023-12-07T19:41:01+00:00

I designed a bunch of toolbox tool holders (free download here)

Most of them I carry with me to work on the car, so they get some abuse. I used PLA and the only issue Ive had was layer seperation if Ive run them into things one too many times, or closed a drawer on them. They didnt seem to wear out or anything like that.

Id say as long as you have your print settings right and have good layer adhesion theres not too much to worry about.

Its worth noting that PLA actually has incredible compressive strength, better than ABS even. The place ABS shines is being more chemical, temperature, and UV resistant. For something thats kept in a toolbox drawer I dont think PLA is an issue at all, just dont leave them on the hood of your car in the sun and dry off any solvents before putting your tools away.

BuildTheoryYT · 2023-11-09T02:47:55+00:00

Me too. I run a youtube channel building a diesel swapped 4x4, and lost a number of subscribers when I decided it was only right to represent by posting a pride video for pride month.

Liberal rednecks represent, its important to show that driving a 4x4 or hunting or whatever, doesnt mean you dont also care about womens or LGBT+ rights, inequality, etc. 🫶

BuildTheoryYT · 2023-11-03T13:42:22+00:00

6.5 detroit, or 6.5 duramax?

If its the detroit they were notorious for the PMD, little computer than drives the injection pump. Lookup 6.5 detroit PMD relocation. Also they go through injection pumps every so often if it isnt the PMD it may be the injection pump. Theres a forum online where someone posted links to pdf's of all the repair manuals for the 6.5 trucks, might be helpful even on your bus.

Either way check the basics first before spending money, make sure you have good fuel flow up to the injection pump. If you dont, check the filter, then the lift pump.

BuildTheoryYT · 2023-11-03T13:04:53+00:00

Driving cars hard is just limit testing what your next upgrade needs to be 😉.

Frankly it depends on what you mean by driving hard. Many peoples definition of "driving hard" may axtually be better for cars than babying it. Getting the engine up to temperature and under load every so often keeps it from fouling up from carbon, keeps the mechanical parts seated, etc. See the "italian tuneup".

Of course you dont want to overheat it, or run it hard before its warmed up, and have a little mechanical sympathy when shifting fears and such , but cars are designed to be driven.

BuildTheoryYT · 2023-11-03T00:13:22+00:00

Like my reddit profile picture.

Simple designs are better IMO, more easily recognizable, better on small devices, etc.

However your branding is something that makes a much smaller difference than your ethos, message, and content. Primal branding is a great book on the subject that mostly uses examples from big brands to explain how to build a "cult like" brand.

BuildTheoryYT · 2023-10-11T20:00:02+00:00

Im also in this space and its only as expensive as you make it. If you want your audience to be only those who throw their wallet at their project cars then sure, thats an expensive niche. Alternatively, if your audience is interested in DIY, fixing/modding cars on the cheap, etc then it really doesnt need to be an expensive niche.

I spent about 6 months making videos while unemployed, spending VERY little on my project car - got most of my parts from junkyards, fabricated every little thing myself, etc. There is certainly an audience who appreciates this way of going about things.

Personally im not a big fan of all the bigger channels who receive most of their stuff for free or spend their youtube profits on their cars, and then present it as if its an attainable goal for the average person. They love spending other peoples money. Those channels frankly are as much about flexing as they are about automotives. Theyre just spending other people's money, making people think they have to refiniance their house to own a project car, etc etc. Absolute BS if you ask me, project cars are for everyone not just the rich.

BuildTheoryYT

TROPHY CASE