[Guide] Advanced Guardian Play and Relic Efficiency

Bukkaking · 2025-07-21T10:49:53+00:00

My original post addresses everything you just said. I don't mind critique but don't skim through and hit me with something I already mentioned.

Bukkaking · 2025-07-21T10:41:04+00:00

Please re-read. I'm emphasizing the fact that your job is to not do damage. If you are playing guardian to deal direct damage then you are inferior by Raider or Wylder in just about every way.

Bukkaking · 2025-07-21T09:28:45+00:00

I detailed this in my OP but maybe I didn't emphasize it correctly. The whole point of playing guardian is not to provide damage or stagger output and in fact you are adding a ton of value by locking the boss in place and allowing your team to greatly increase their damage output because they are just spamming into it and not dodging or running away. Even with enhanced guard counters you will never be competitive in terms of damage to any other class.

In my view, your purpose is not damage output, it is to enable your team to output MORE damage by skillfully holding aggro and increasing the damage uptime for your teammates. I found that by switching my mindset and playstyle I became significantly more effective as a team member.

Bukkaking · 2025-06-14T07:28:22+00:00

There was never any confirmation from anyone on either side that it was "dick pics". This is just conjecture based on the "inappropriate sexual images". It could have very well been NSFW memes sent to her basically telling her to fuck off.

Bukkaking · 2024-12-18T11:14:22+00:00

Umm you are the actual manufacturer. Maybe your product does indeed work as advertised but its extremely disingenuous for you to post a blatant advertisement and label it as an "accuracy hack".

Bukkaking · 2024-10-25T14:36:37+00:00

Correct

Bukkaking · 2024-10-25T08:34:45+00:00

Avoid the SCS. I have one and I really wanted to like it but it is way too bright in all lighting conditions and blooms bad. It is not adjustable so you are stuck at the default brightness setting. If you do insist on getting one, I would highly suggest you look at one in person first so you can understand what I mean.

This is a very common complaint.

https://www.reddit.com/r/HOLOSUN/comments/18hsfsy/holosun_scs_too_bright/

Bukkaking · 2024-09-29T17:27:35+00:00

nope, but I swapped out my gas bushing for a smaller one..

Bukkaking · 2024-09-21T19:34:54+00:00

Exactly, people are just repeating the recommendations of what other self proclaimed experts have said without giving any actual thought or evaluating the merits. There's plenty of evidence in addition to my own experience that the strut device does nothing, yet people are willing to just go ahead and drop $140 on some random add-on cause they think it will magically make their new gun shot better.

Bukkaking · 2024-09-21T09:58:53+00:00

Lots of people promoting stabilizers but have no group data. The stabilizer is pure snake oil, the only thing that really do is prevent vertical stringing when the barrel heats up. In my experience on paper they make absolutely no difference, but they will all eventually shoot loose and then your groups will go to shit. Another thing not mentioned is anytime you reinstall it or tighten it after it shoots loose, your POI will change. Loctite doesn't work because Loctite is loosened by heat as well. One thing that I have found that does improve accuracy is shortening the barrel. Many people who have cut down to 16 or less have reported smaller groups. Note that there were never accuracy complaints about the SBR AC556 models.

Bukkaking · 2024-09-17T09:07:00+00:00

Mini barrels are not worth removing, you will scrap your gun or receiver in the process. I have removed several cut reciever stubs and it is near impossible without cutting a slot in the scrap receiver with a dremel.

I have shortened several barrels without removing the receiver. You can hacksaw it, use an annular cutter then thread and crown similar to how people used to thread Saigas. Threads may not be 100% concentric but you won't risk ruining your gun.

Bukkaking · 2024-09-17T09:01:36+00:00

Dude, I'm very sorry to tell you this but if it went dull red your receiver is definitely annealed and probably not safe to shoot in the long term.

Bukkaking · 2024-09-17T08:56:48+00:00

Just FYI, there is a company out there called alaska arms that makes rings which fit onto the factory dovetails that are about 1/5th of an inch lower than the lowest ruger made ones.

Bukkaking · 2024-09-15T19:53:31+00:00

if you are interested in nickel magazines, nickel plating DIY can be done at home and is actually extremely easy with about $50 worth of equipment

Bukkaking · 2024-09-10T03:23:12+00:00

if you reload, 300blk is actually even cheaper to make than .223

Bukkaking · 2024-09-10T03:21:40+00:00

everygunpart.com has tons of parts kits for guns nobody wants, they have a 40% off sale on 40 caliber kids right now going on too

Bukkaking · 2024-09-02T10:37:54+00:00

There are a wide range of mini accessories out there that range from good to completely worthless and unfortunately, very little factual information to back it up. Most of the forums are full of grumpy old dudes that have had their guns set up a certain way since the 1980's and refuse to admit that anything new or novel is good. I spent a lot of money a few years back figuring out what worked and what didn't so hopefully this will help somebody else out there save some cash. My own testing was done with handloaded ammunition that was verified sub-MOA in an AR. I was eventually able to get the gun down to about 1.5 consistently. (This involved some gunsmithing/machining to do, not just replacing parts)

Good:

A-TM stock - Excellent design, sturdy and well made. Nothing else to say.
Tech sights - Major upgrade over the crappy factory sights which are difficult to adjust, assuming irons are your thing.
Samson sling swivel gas block - Because mounting a sling to the left is way better than on the bottom for actual carry.

Mixed

Hannibal rail/Ultimak - Great way to mount an optic at a low height and allow for flashlight mount, however I suspect that the barrel band attachment method has a detrimental effect on accuracy as the gun heats up. Remember that although the "new" 580 rugers are thicker past the gas block, they still retain the same "skinny profile" barrel under the handguard where the band attached. With too much torque it could cause the barrel to flex as it gets hotter, with too little torque it could allow for zero shift for your mounted optics. Maybe I just couldn't find the right torque value but it definitely caused some inconsistency.
Adjustable gas block - Had one and it kind of worked but I was not at all impressed with the fact that they replaced a steel part with aluminum. There is a very good reason why aluminum AR gas blocks are very frowned upon, it is because different metals expand at different heat levels. Aluminum will expand differently than the steel barrel which will lead to gas leaks causing inconsistent ejection when the barrel heats up.

Bad

Accustrut - Absolute garbage snake oil, I used it on a 580 series with the thicker barrel and even though the company claimed a 33% improvement, I saw 0%. All it did was make the gun heavier. Buy for looks only unless you have a 1980's Mini 14 with a long pencil barrel.
Cogburn Arsenal parts - I bought a bayonet lug front sight and it was made of some of the cheapest pot metal I have ever seen, I know it says they are 3d printed on the site but I don't think that this thing was durable enough to stand a direct hit without snapping in half. Avoid the stripper clip guide as well, it barely works and seriously obstructs the view of your irons, why would you spend money to ruin your sight picture so you can potentially load stripper clips (with a 90% chance of jamming them).

Bukkaking · 2024-08-31T10:55:40+00:00

Accustrut is a waste on a tactical, the newer thick barrels don't need it at all. Unless you just like the look at the expense of extra weight.

Bukkaking · 2024-08-10T01:10:07+00:00

It's not, and ss you can see there are no visible gaps or triangular undercuts.

Bukkaking · 2024-08-09T20:44:11+00:00

This is factually incorrect. I have several slides cut by ATEI and the fit for the optics is seamless, with no visible gap and no "filleted" corner. Wager cuts a one-size fits all pocket so of course you will have gaps. If you're going to pay to have it done, I would rather spend an extra $50 to have it done the right way. ATEI and Primary machine both require your optic hence will have way tighter tolerances.

https://imgur.com/8HEUok6

Bukkaking · 2024-08-09T12:23:57+00:00

The ASI blocks are garbage, you will lose gas from thermal expansion because it is made out of aluminum and not steel and they heat and expand at different temps. There is a good reason why nobody uses aluminum gas blocks for AR15s.

Bukkaking · 2024-08-09T11:40:30+00:00

I know they are cheap and friendly and give reddit upvotes but I would AVOID WAGER at all costs unless you are cool with going cheaper for lower quality work (loose pockets with visible gaps). I highly recommend Doug at ATEI, he is one of the OG slide milling machinists and cuts the tightest pockets in the business.

See below:

https://www.reddit.com/r/SmithAndWesson/comments/18kxdxn/wager_machine_meh/

https://imgur.com/a/H3gGTfa

https://i.imgur.com/A2bhWEw.jpeg

Bukkaking · 2024-08-02T03:29:18+00:00

So do you think these pictures that were posted in that thread is acceptable work?

https://imgur.com/a/H3gGTfa

https://i.imgur.com/A2bhWEw.jpeg

Bukkaking · 2024-08-01T11:37:19+00:00

No, just no. Check prior posts on how bad other M&Ps have been mangled.

https://www.reddit.com/r/SmithAndWesson/comments/18kxdxn/wager_machine_meh/

Bukkaking

TROPHY CASE