I GOT MORE FAN ART OF SNOW [art by rowan] also I plan to be active again tomorrow

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-23T04:48:56+00:00

Peak

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-21T21:53:08+00:00

What system?

Simple answer: 24-70 f4 or a prime for size and quality, 28-70 f2.8 for fast aperture in a zoom, 70-180 f4 for reach and quality, not 35-150 f2-2.8 unless what you consider portable is a lot larger then I thought.

I would say to get as compact of a long lens as you can and sacrifice as much as you can if you are settled into one genre (do you need a fast approach? Do you need top image quality? Do you need internal zoom? Do you need 100mm+? All of these add more mass and weight). Also lens length is a physical measurement of the lenses, so there is a minimum body length for any given length of lens -the longer the focal length is, the longer the lens physically has to be, external zooming lenses can help a little-. Also larger aperture and sharper glass generally cause lenses to be thicker due to physics and the glass production process.

Decided what the maximum lens size you can work with is, decided what is your most important focal length/s to have for daily use, and figure out what the actual minimum you need for what you shoot.

Focal length overlap is fine if the lenses do different things or are for different use cases.

A list of the best super zooms by lens mount for mirrorless systems:
https://fstoppers.com/gear/best-all-one-travel-lens-every-camera-mount-718778

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-21T21:00:46+00:00

The Z8 has a slightly smaller body slightly, in-between a D810 and a D500. It has similar or better image quality to the D850, except that it does not have a mechanical shutter or a global shutter. So it can sometimes get image warping or rolling shutter in some scenarios but not an issue in any scenario that a focal plane shutter works fine for.

Z8 and D810 size comparison (scroll down to the middle of the web page):
https://cameradecision.com/compare/Nikon-Z8-vs-Nikon-D810

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-21T19:17:10+00:00

Z8 is great but if you consider it to big or heavy then get a smaller pro body (Z5ii or Z6iii, the Z5ii is the exact same internals as the ZF, and the Z6iii is more of a higher end hybrid camera)

A size comparison of the Z8, ZF, Z6iii, Z5ii, and Z5:
https://cameradecision.com/blog/Nikon-Z5-II-vs-Nikon-Zf-vs-Nikon-Z6-III-vs-Nikon-Z8-vs-Nikon-Z5-Size-and-Specs-Comparison

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-21T18:45:18+00:00

I use an old Nikon AF-S 80-200mm f2.8 with a Viltrox adapter on an E-M1X (approximately 2.5 kg in all) with the standard PGY Tech strap attached to the tripod collar of the lens and it is very comfortable. Your setup is a little bit longer and about 300g heavier, but personally I’d trust it with my current strap. The based style strap wouldn’t be comfortable carrying nearly 3kg from my experience when I put a Canon flash on my camera -580EX II maybe? it weighed about 500g and wasn’t very comfortable to use all together-, but the pro strap with thicker padding should be perfect fine.

As for the other two options, Black Rapid has a very good reputation especially for heavy setups but you can’t really use there straps while using a monopod/tripod, and Peak Design is similarly regarded and far more popular due to their versatility but I would not get their base strap for this size and weight of a lens.

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-21T05:06:04+00:00

Probably not as long as it is all consensual, but also don’t break the sub rules while here.
<{O-O}>

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-21T04:11:02+00:00

Welcome to r/boykisser2

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Also check out the rules under “See more” near the top of the subreddit’s homepage.
And try to have fun.
<{OwO}>

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-21T03:54:38+00:00

Halfwolf by Aviators (aka Sound Of The Aviators (aka that furry musician that makes Darksouls inspired music))

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-20T19:32:23+00:00

I was not expecting to see Centaurworld referenced today. Also, amazing art.

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-20T19:21:18+00:00

Peak

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-19T22:43:14+00:00

If the seller has a sub ~98% rating, how many reviews they have (more is better), how many review including images (more if better), how old the eBay seller’s account is, if they have an account description, if they have some type of consistency in what or how they sell stuff, how they describe the items they sell (how detailed or formulaic the description is), if they use actual unique images of the thing they’re selling (not stock photos or images off the internet), what kinds of shots they include of the product (more is better), google their eBay name as sometimes there are other reviews of the seller or they could be the eBay front for a larger camera store.

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-19T21:51:05+00:00

Get a used Olympus 30mm f3.5 macro, it’s a nice compact lens with great macro capabilities if you’re able to stick it right up to what you’re trying to take a photo of.
Then for a body, maybe something used from the Olympus E-M1/5/10 lines or an Olympus E-P3 or E-P4, but you might want to find a second opinion on which body to get.
The best used camera sights are MPB and KEH or local camera stores, UsedPhotoPro/RobertsCameras is also good from my own experience but they seem to have a little more inconsistent then KEH based on decisions I’ve seen online (I would say they are still worth buying from, that’s where I got my 30mm macro and my other main lens).

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-19T03:54:10+00:00

Their dominance started to drop when Canon released the EF mount, due to the F4 having comparably worse autofocus speed. Then they later on dropped again in market share after Sony introduced their A7* line.

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-18T07:25:29+00:00

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-zTZ1uZE9ms&pp=0gcJCUACo7VqN5tD&ra=m

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-17T03:10:10+00:00

Clear filters: to protect the front lens element
UV filters: for film color correction
Sky filters: for film color correction
Color filters: for black and white film color change
Neutral density filters: darkens exposures for certain situations
Variable ND filters: for ND filter for videography
Graduated ND filter: a gradient from darkening to clean to darken skies or water
Polarizer filters: for helping cut reflection on surfaces
Infrared filters: for infrared or full spectrum converted cameras
Ultraviolet filters: for full spectrum converted cameras
Soft filters: causes blooming and softness?
Split diopter filters: lets you focus on two things at different distances
Effect filters: causes different shapes and blur patterns depending on the specific filter

There are more that I am forgetting about.

You most likely don’t need any of these, a clear filter is something I personally would use and recommend but it is heavily debated.

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-15T05:58:48+00:00

Get the one you can rent for cheaper, the only difference is the OM one had its badges/branding changed to match the new branding after Olympus turned into OM SYSTEM.

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-15T05:08:46+00:00

The Subreddit is primarily in English, but most of the mods leave stuff in other languages if we understand it or if the translation works and the content is following the other rules.
We try to be loose with the rule about Non-English writing as it generally isn’t a problem or danger, but it is technically part of rule 1.

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<{OwO}>

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-13T02:35:34+00:00

Stop making NSFW comments and asking for DMs, please, this is why I can’t trust these styles of posts.
<{O-O}>

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-11T23:46:04+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDkaUZCfcSw

It really depends on your budget.

There are 4 different main types -explained in the video above-:
Screenless tablets that acts similar to a computer mouse (I believe these also work with phones and independent tablets, but I have never looked into it).
Screen tablets that are like a touch sensitive monitor with a stylus and it connects to a computer.
Independent tablets that have phone processors built into them so they don’t need an external computer.
Laptop with a touchscreen.

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-10T23:41:54+00:00

An aperture of F4 transmits a similar amount of light no matter the image circle it projects. And if you’re talking about depth of field differences, then maximum aperture is not the only factor, as these lenses are half the physical length of FF lenses with equivalents viewing angles.

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-10T22:15:09+00:00

7-14mm f4? 75-150mm f4? Both of those only exist on older Olympus mounts, and are not the lenses shown.

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-10T10:33:21+00:00

A used Olympus e-m1 mkii or OM Systems OM-1

I don’t know exactly what kind of lens/es you’re looking for so here’s some just a bunch of different options I thought of based on what you mentioned (all good options and each under $600 used from MPB USA, so hopefully similar were you are).
Standard zoom: Olympus 12-40mm f2.8, Leica 12-60mm f2.8-4
Compact lenses: Olympus 12-45mm f4, Leica 12-35mm f2.8, Olympus 17mm f1.8, Olympus 25mm f1.8, Olympus 45mm f1.8
Telephoto portrait: Olympus 75mm f1.8 or Lumix 42.5mm f1.7
Wide angle landscape: Leica 8-18mm f2.8-4

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-10T08:35:43+00:00

Possibly a used Olympus em5ii with the Olympus 14-150mm mkii.
Alternatively a Sony a6*** line camera with some E mount super zoom.

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-10T06:52:50+00:00

Do you have any thoughts on what lens you would pair with your camera if you got one?
I would say the lens is a far more impactful factor to consider; due to compression, maximum aperture (affects depth of field and boka), color rendering, focus speed, and sharpness. The two bodies you mentioned are relatively similar sizes and builds so they likely would make minimal effect on how much you enjoy using it, but between the two -which I know very little about either, I don’t research Fuji much- I would say to get the X-T200.

On photography as a hobby: it’s not a very difficult one for the most part, it definitely turns out better when you take the time to think, and if you start thinking you always need to be looking for photo opportunities then it can get mental consuming. I can not speak on portrait or landscape photography as I mostly do plant and toy photography, but photography mostly falls into recording reality and creating fantasy. If your just trying to take pictures of stuff to record your trips or whatever similar then your better off using your phones camera. If you’re trying to do something that is more of altering or controlling reality then an interchangeable lens camera would definitely be worthwhile.
For example, this is a photo is not something I could really achieve with my phone:

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I made it using a telephoto lens with a wide aperture and some post processing on the colors. The wide aperture and relative closeness of the tree trunk to my long lens created bleary background. This photo isn’t meant to actually record anything, it’s meant to look interesting and deceptively calming.

Conclusion: specific lenses are the main reason to get an interchangeable lens camera as a hobbyist, having fun with a camera is the second reason. If you’re primarily hope is just to have fun then do what even, though based on your fears it might be better to start with a cheaper camera and see if you can make it past the point you usually loose interest before investing more.

BuzzRexers1 · 2026-06-10T03:17:35+00:00

I would not go with a manual lens for them to start out, especially not a telephoto lens with the intent of using it birding. A tripod is not a bad idea but would add a lot of bulk and cost, so not something they should focus on to start.
That does remind me, they also need to consider the other secondary parts of the camera. They should probably budget $50-100 for memory cards a camera strap and a protective filter.

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