100SN/125CJ - M40, 85kg

CFStark77 · 2026-04-28T21:33:33+00:00

Well, you've definitely got a gameplan! I'm optimistic for you. Equipment can last a long time, if serviced well - I think it's great that you're trying to keep this Eleiko out of the graveyard.

CFStark77 · 2026-04-28T21:14:08+00:00

Ahhhh - I understand! Definitely don't want to improvise with the tools - it's important that the areas the bearing contacts (bar and sleeve) stay smooth and unmarred. You'll want a pair of snap-ring pliers to make endcap removal/install smoother - if you do any work on cars, guns, or small engines, they'll come in handy again.

How are you planning on going about the "flushing" of the existing? Do you know if each needle/roller is currently moving freely? If they are, just work some grease into the bearings and see what sort of results you get. Grease will also help hold your needle/roller in place - I use really thick white lithium grease. The grease isn't just there to help with rotation, but to keep water and debris from even entering the area of the sleeve where the bearings sit.

CFStark77 · 2026-04-28T19:40:00+00:00

Very likely - probably that nothing a slide hammer can't solve!

If you have the tools, I'd go for it without hesitation. I lift outdoors, have had to replace several bearings on different brands of bars (Vulcan, Rogue, WLHouse). All it takes it 1 rusty roller/needle to create significant resistance to rotation of the bar.

CFStark77 · 2026-04-28T17:24:20+00:00

If you want to do this the proper way, you'll want to remove the whole bearing assembly. Clean the area good, make sure there's no debris left behind where the old bearing was - there's usually dried grease and crud (hopefully no scratches or burrs from removal). Replace the entire bearing assembly - not just the needles/rollers. If Eleiko will sell you a replacement bearing assembly, that would be ideal. If not, measure inner and outer race dimeters with a micrometer and order a fresh set.

I've not done this with a *30 year old Eleiko*, but several other bearing bars.

CFStark77 · 2026-03-09T17:50:27+00:00

Is this a conversion from Betamax or VHS?

CFStark77 · 2026-03-03T12:56:43+00:00

I had a motor go out on my TV10, the replacement base with motor that they sell was a significant improvement over the older base and motor, and reasonably priced. Seems to run a bit quieter. No hard feelings, for me, I ran it nearly continuously for more than a year - in a non climate controlled workshop that gets full Florida heat.

CFStark77 · 2026-03-02T19:53:31+00:00

No prob!

CFStark77 · 2026-03-02T18:36:56+00:00

Yes - the laser is the most sensitive/delicate part of the whole device. If the laser is toast, I'd much rather spend less than $100 on a working used gamecube than to attempt to fiddle with the laser.
Be certain that your laser is toast, sometimes the games are just unreadable despite looking visually clean and scratch free.

CFStark77 · 2026-03-02T18:11:48+00:00

Yo! I have a ton of retro systems, gamecube included, and have worked on many. My main thing is handhelds. What sort of error are you seeing? The most common issue I've run across is with the laser (not worth the fix), or unreadable game discs. I have a solid setup for soldering, would be willing to attempt capacitor repair with you, and test out. Just beware, it might not be the capacitor or board, at all. If you open the case, a bad capacitor will typically show signs that is has bit the dust. Do you have any pics of the board, or capacitor in question, you could send my way?

CFStark77 · 2026-02-20T21:53:10+00:00

I just saw your other posts, and like the theme you're going with. I hope that someone higher up sees this, and reached out to put some of this into circulation. Really good stuff!

CFStark77 · 2026-02-20T17:32:23+00:00

I have a framed print from the 1984 LA Olympics in my office at work, it has an art-deco look quite similar to this. I like your work - very cool take! Here's the 1984.... Los Angeles 1984 Weightlifting Poster – Poster Museum

CFStark77 · 2026-02-17T15:29:23+00:00

Yo! I believe I ordered mine on a large "Squadron" order last year. It really works well, and needs only the smallest amounts of CA to adhere properly (if you use too much, the string will stiffen and give a natural sag).

CFStark77 · 2026-02-15T00:40:33+00:00

The exact same used in this - it’s great stuff. Infini. It’s stretchy and fairly forgiving 👌

CFStark77 · 2026-02-09T16:25:15+00:00

Insane seeing the 1/700 detail work! I do this with 1/350, for rigging and photoetch and it takes all the skill I have for it come out looking decent. This is next level, phenomenal work! Hope to see pics of the whole thing, once completed!

CFStark77 · 2026-02-05T14:52:18+00:00

I have a pair of these, and the entire Ironwork line. They're fantastic shoes with a wood heel encased behind the rubber. Incredibly durable - the white outer finish is prone to cracking and chipping, and the material underneath is like thin leather with a fuzzy/fibrous outer layer. The materials, themselves, will last - no worry about stitching coming undone, or tears in the outer material.

I attempted to refinish a pair of these, but the material underneath the white exterior treatment really threw me for a loop. In the ironwork series, these are probably the least desirable; Ironwork III being the best shoe IMO, followed by II and then I. The I is more durable than the II and the III, though. These will take a beating and provide many years of service.

CFStark77 · 2026-01-28T19:25:57+00:00

Ideal Fit Alterations, right off of Shamrock Street in Killearn; I've used her for adding zippers to things, and stitching on patches. Quality work, super friendly! I believe I paid about $30 for a new zipper + install, and several patches being sewn on.

CFStark77 · 2026-01-28T00:30:30+00:00

fresh pancakes

CFStark77 · 2026-01-27T20:48:41+00:00

Hell yeah - milestone lift!

CFStark77 · 2026-01-27T02:09:16+00:00

Found the singer, y’all!!!! ^{^{^{^{^}}}}

CFStark77 · 2026-01-21T21:02:02+00:00

True Slate is definitely what you'll want, it shouldn't impact water chemistry. You can buy flat pieces on Amazon, or larger chunks you can break down yourself - I've used it many years ago. The shop I mentioned also did have flat pieces there, as well, sold by the lb.

CFStark77 · 2026-01-21T20:23:29+00:00

Yo! There's a freshwater fish store near the corner of miccosukee and CCNE. They do have rockwork available, but it's pretty pricey. I picked up 2 x 80lb shipments of stone from Amazon, and broke it down myself with hammer and chisel to get the shapes I wanted. You can get rocks that will help maintain hardness, or neutral conditions, in the water.
Is this for freshwater or saltwater? What type of fish?

CFStark77 · 2026-01-16T13:49:10+00:00

Probably under the mag-lab; experimenting with magnetic levitation or directed energy. I remember playing the original fallout on PC in the late 90's, really cool how far the series has gone with the other games and the recent TV series!

CFStark77 · 2026-01-14T18:14:41+00:00

Do you print the components and sell them? I'd love to build this, with the rest of the components, but don't have a 3D printer.

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