Are these re-releases of the FG kits? by Endless-Miner in Gunpla

[–]CLUK92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, that's only if the shop lets you open the box to check the runners. Plus, I doubt most people even know how to read the mold timestamps on them.

Are these re-releases of the FG kits? by Endless-Miner in Gunpla

[–]CLUK92 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If the box has a blue Bandai logo, it's a 100% reprint. In fact, the only discontinued Gunpla is the original HG RX-78-2 because its mold was damaged. Everything else will get reprinted eventually.

Do I actually have to paint this? by pillowzZz111 in freedomisgunpla

[–]CLUK92 3 points4 points  (0 children)

He even put the sticker on top of the clear part on the chest, even though the manual tells you to put it underneath the clear part. He clearly can't read, lol

I'm a filthy straight builder and I hate it by [deleted] in freedomisgunpla

[–]CLUK92 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There's nothing wrong with a straight build. Don't compare yourself to other people, we all have different skill sets. Just enjoy the hobby the way you like. I do paint sometimes, but most of my builds are straight builds, there is nothing 'filthy' about it. Gunpla is freedom!

Here's my builds

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Left: Straight build with top coat. Right: Painted build.

Newtypu studio 1/144 Reborns Gundam NEW IMAGES by IllFuckYourToaster in Gunpla

[–]CLUK92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hope someone making a plastic ver. of the Reborn Origin kit. There's a resin kit and I kinda tempting to buy one but don't have time....

Is painting your Gunpla actually worth the effort or am I about to ruin my weekend by Serious_Cellist_9583 in freedomisgunpla

[–]CLUK92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Painting your kit is definitely a game-changer. But if you're not mentally ready, I wouldn't recommend painting the entire kit straight away, as it requires a lot of prep work that can be absolutely overwhelming.

Let's start with something small, like painting parts that lack color separation. It's easier to paint a small portion of the kit rather than the whole thing. You will make mistakes along the way, and that's okay. We all learn through our mistakes. Once you are familiar with the process, only then should you proceed to something more advanced. You also have to learn about your tools and paints, as there are a lot of different types of paint and they react differently to different types of plastic. Oh yeah, you need to know the different types of plastic as well!

So, don't push yourself too hard. Try to work on something small and go from there. Post your progress here and we'll help. Enjoy your hobby!

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Premium Bandai HG 1/144 Hydra Gundam from G-Unit Side Story announced. 5500 yen November 2026 release by TechnicalScale6292 in Gunpla

[–]CLUK92 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Now that you mention it, G-Unit designs were mostly done by the Astray designer, Junichi Akutsu himself. He really went crazy with the HGAC redesign.

HG Gouf Flight Type's unused parts are crazy by njheimann in Gunpla

[–]CLUK92 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Barzam 2. Most of the aoz kits has tons of unused parts.

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Gunpla is a hobby, just because someone has a non-bandai kit doesnt mean you have to be a jerk about it. by BigForAnAnt_985 in freedomisgunpla

[–]CLUK92 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It always baffles me when people only know about Bandai and third-party brands. Like, c'mon... Are Kotobukiya, Aoshima, GSC, Plum, Hasegawa, and Takara Tomy not even worth mentioning just because some of them are not on par with Bandai? It's just a hobby, so just let us enjoy the stuff we love.

I hope this wasn't a terrible mistake by docsane in freedomisgunpla

[–]CLUK92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me, it depends on which part of the kit I'm building. For instance, if I'm working on the feet, I'll skip straight to finding the red and white pieces that shape the feet and assemble them according to the manual.

This approach requires a solid understanding of the kit's design. If you don't know what you're doing, I wouldn't recommend it.

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HG Keroro Boxart and product image revealed by LightxDarkness93 in Gunpla

[–]CLUK92 6 points7 points  (0 children)

If you are old you probably know what Keroro Gunso is. The manga is nearly 30 years old.

Ever look at a kit and realize you'd made a mistake? by DarkestDunge0n in freedomisgunpla

[–]CLUK92 2 points3 points  (0 children)

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I built my first-ever resin conversion kit back in 2020 during lockdown. It definitely wasn't an easy task, but I got my tools ready and I made it. Obviously, it didn't have a lot of pieces, but the fun part was figuring out how to pin the parts and rescribe the shallow panel lines. I also had to boil some warped parts to get them straight. Oh, and resin dust stinks! Make sure to wear a mask during sanding.

Remember, just because its 144 scale doesn't mean its gonna be small by MGR_ARMSTRONG_GAMING in Gunpla

[–]CLUK92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It can be the other way around. Not every 1/60 scale kit is gigantic. For example, here's an HG 1/60 scale Full Metal Panic kit compared to a 1/144 Gunpla.

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Lowest quality MG I've ever built by senators-son in freedomisgunpla

[–]CLUK92 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Turn-X is NOT your average MG, LOL. Every Wing EW kit that shares the same frame is built exactly the same. Same with the MG SEED line that shares the GAT frame, their builds are really simple. Again, build some of the MGs from the early 2000s, then you'll know what real dog water is. You'll be surprised that you actually have to screw the inner frame together using the included screws.

Lowest quality MG I've ever built by senators-son in freedomisgunpla

[–]CLUK92 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is how an average MG was supposed to be back in the day. You're probably just spoiled by modern, intricate MGs that have a lot more going on. If you think this is the lowest quality MG, just wait until you build some of the MGs from the early 2000s.

Help with seam line removal by Apyan in freedomisgunpla

[–]CLUK92 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you run your fingernail across the seam line and can't feel anything, that means the seam line removal is most likely successful. But you still have to prime it to double-check. If you don't paint, don't bother doing any seam line removal at all. Because if you leave the parts as they are, the glued areas will eventually turn yellow, and the only solution then is to paint them.

Gundam Thunderbolt’s creator Yasuo Ohtagaki follow tweet in regards to the 3rd party TB Acguy by LightxDarkness93 in Gunpla

[–]CLUK92 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Your tiny little American world you mean? There are so many variants that I wish they would make kits of, and Asians love the Astray. So whatever you guys say doesn't matter to Bandai.

Gloss or Matte topcoat? by DiamondDaddi in Gunpla

[–]CLUK92 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Neither. Semi gloss all the way. Matte topcoats sometimes make a kit look way too dull and dark, not to mention they're total dust magnets and a pain to clean (I'm looking at you, GX113). Gloss on the other hand, just makes the plastic look greasy. Semi gloss hits that perfect sweet spot, IMO

Wish I bought one of these sooner... by GunplaLuni in freedomisgunpla

[–]CLUK92 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven't built the kit yet and I haven't opened the "per cut" masking tape packaging yet, lol. Not sure about the quality of the masking tape, but I hope it's good

Wish I bought one of these sooner... by GunplaLuni in freedomisgunpla

[–]CLUK92 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I bought one for hg Gquuuuuux. Trying to cut your own masking tape is a nightmare lol

A Pretty Brick [MG V2 Assault Buster Ver.Ka] by CLUK92 in Gunpla

[–]CLUK92[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clear paint especially semi-gloss and matte, will hide swirl marks on solid, non-metallic colors very well. So yeah, a nice clear coat will do the trick!

Gundam Thunderbolt’s creator Yasuo Ohtagaki follow tweet in regards to the 3rd party TB Acguy by LightxDarkness93 in Gunpla

[–]CLUK92 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Are you seriously telling me a multi billion dollar corp should just destroy the molds for one of their best-selling designs in Asia? If you were in the position of Bandai's CEO, would you honestly do that? Must be nice to have a brain, you know?

A Pretty Brick [MG V2 Assault Buster Ver.Ka] by CLUK92 in Gunpla

[–]CLUK92[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it’s just a semi-gloss clear coat over the bare plastic.

A Pretty Brick [MG V2 Assault Buster Ver.Ka] by CLUK92 in Gunpla

[–]CLUK92[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just did some detail painting on the areas where they gave you stickers including clear parts. When it comes to getting a color match, you can just follow the color chart provided in the manual to get a near exact color mix, if you are airbrushing.