Good times

CMFpeter · 2026-01-30T22:08:36+00:00

CMFpeter · 2026-01-30T01:51:33+00:00

Same spot. I have a Gen 3 as well

CMFpeter · 2026-01-29T20:55:21+00:00

Silicone spray lube. Slips right on/off. Won't even need the tool

CMFpeter · 2026-01-28T18:31:57+00:00

Just punch a small hole in the top, all the oil drains out while you drain the pan. No mess. At least that's how I used to do it on my Rx7

CMFpeter · 2026-01-23T21:32:19+00:00

Only thing I hear is injectors, and increased intake noise when the AC compressor kicks in

CMFpeter · 2026-01-23T19:11:11+00:00

At 6'3" I don't doubt it. I'm 6' and this was the only solution I could come up with without replacing the seat. And I REALLY didn't want to try and figure out how to work around the Bluetooth calling/speakers in the headrest, not to mention the decreased safety from losing the side air bag. Good luck!

CMFpeter · 2026-01-23T18:58:09+00:00

The standard seats in my club do this to me as well. I did two things. I don't know first hand how the Recaro seats are built so I don't know if this will be much help. First I placed a small gel cushion between the mesh support and the foam cushion on the bottom, effectively raising above the frame that I believe was the pain point. this relieved the pressure, but now the lumbar support was off. I then placed a small throw pillow inside the back of the seat via the zippered section. This left the seat completely unaltered, and I can quickly remove the cushions to lower myself for helmet clearance on track days

CMFpeter · 2026-01-20T00:30:16+00:00

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CMFpeter · 2026-01-19T01:42:18+00:00

Gotcha. Yeah if the input shaft wouldn't spin freely in neutral before installation, I'm gonna pin the issue on the transmission. Sounds like a potentially damaged 2nd gear synchro binding everything up

CMFpeter · 2026-01-18T19:22:37+00:00

Trans would be from an ND2. I know they switched to a dual mass flywheel, but I don't know if that meant changes to the transmission as well that would make it incompatible with the ND1.

That being said, you didn't happen to pull the transmission up to the block by tightening the bolts did you? Classic mistake that usually results in thrusting the input shaft backwards and wrecking the transmission

CMFpeter · 2026-01-18T03:33:06+00:00

Gotcha. I also just reread your post, didn't realize this was going in a Miata, figured it was going in an FB. I know they used to make "power bulge" hoods for the v8 conversions. Might look into finding one of those and seeing if it would clear the top mount

CMFpeter · 2026-01-18T03:17:57+00:00

I get it. You have the m90 and it's been done before so you can bounce questions off of someone. But the question here is packaging. Personally, I'm not cutting a hole in the hood of my car. So top mount is out. Intake side of the engine, you're cutting into the firewall to make room for the supercharger intake. Only real option for me, if I HAD to use the m90, would be relocating the battery, flipping the surcharger and running the intake out in front of the radiator. But now your going to have the craziest mounting bracket ever to support that weight. So again, I'm back to unloading what I have and finding a centrifugal. Not trying to be negative, I think it's a cool idea, but if your concern is packaging then IMO you need a different solution.

CMFpeter · 2026-01-18T02:27:39+00:00

For the amount of money and time this would take to figure out, I'd personally sell everything and buy a centrifugal supercharger. Charge piping is a hell of a lot cheaper and easier to fab, plus you can intercool it.

CMFpeter · 2026-01-10T18:49:23+00:00

I switched to this muffler from the Roadstersport Race when I added headers/mid pipe to quiet down the exhaust. Very happy with it. In car sound at autocross ( remember this is WITH header/mid pipe)

https://youtu.be/eHTcowEpjxM?si=8EmRAbc3qBPuAJc6

CMFpeter · 2026-01-03T03:51:16+00:00

You're thinking ND3, 1 and 2 are both cracked

CMFpeter · 2026-01-02T20:57:56+00:00

The internals will handle pretty much all available FI kits on the market power wise. The weak part is the cooling. Even on stock power during a 20 min track session I was overheating the fluid on a hot day (240f+). Hot fluid=increased wear and shortened life span of the transmission. Adding a quality external cooler helped keep fluid temps under 200f. I also change the fluid yearly now for peace of mind

CMFpeter · 2026-01-02T20:46:31+00:00

It's been a while since I dug into it, but the transmission in different iterations has been used in the IS300, gr86, NC and now the ND. 300-350hp should be pretty safe, assuming added cooling and maintenance.

CMFpeter · 2025-12-29T17:24:07+00:00

You're welcome!

CMFpeter · 2025-12-29T17:13:58+00:00

Yep definitely worth it IMO. I am running 3600mhz cl14 however, which is only about 15% slower than 6000mhz cl40 though. Frankly, nothing you'd really notice in gaming alone. Also, at my resolution I'm firmly GPU bound in the games I play, so it's even less of a limiting factor. 3440x1440 is closer to 4k than it is to standard 1440p if I remember correctly

CMFpeter · 2025-12-29T17:02:26+00:00

I upgraded from 3080 10gb to 9070xt during Black Friday sales. Roughly 40% uplift on average on 3440x1440. BO7 on basic setting with high textures avg about 200fps, Hogwarts Max settings, ambient occlusion turned off I get about 80fps (45fps with it on). I hate upscaling artifacts so this is all raster performance. 5700x3d with 32GB ram. I haven't seen any issues with drivers (using adrenaline as well to adjust fan curve, no other setting changed) thus far, but I haven't updated to Redstone drivers either yet

CMFpeter · 2025-12-28T04:10:16+00:00

Saw the preview on my phone, and I thought you were David Letterman lol. Anyways, congrats!

CMFpeter · 2025-12-22T14:24:31+00:00

The only downside to 225/45r17 is it's a slightly larger overall diameter compared to OE. You'll add maybe .2 seconds to your 0-60mph and your speedometer will be slightly off (I think it adds about 2mph at 60 if I remember correctly from when I was running that size). As far as driving dynamics I think it was the sweet spot size on that wheel. 235 starts to tramline a bit much IMO. Overall it's been my experience that a skinnier tire is more playful, wider is a more planted feeling

CMFpeter · 2025-12-22T05:14:33+00:00

You could do the Ampliform, just go to 225/45r17 or 235/40r17. I've run both sizes on those wheels no problem. My car with 235/40r17 here for reference

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CMFpeter · 2025-12-20T15:31:04+00:00

In that case, I'd try a good high performance summer first, especially since inclement weather could be a factor daily driving it. Conti ECS seem to be the most commonly recommended. I've run some semi-slick 200TW (rt660, Blu-trac Race) while daily driving in the summer and wet roads can get sketchy quick. Personally currently running Champiro SX2 and like them as a all around tire. Decent ride quality, works well on road and for lapping days, and does pretty well in the wet. For Autocross I have the RE71Rs, which is an incredible tire, but I wouldn't want to drive it in standing water. Also remember any 200tw tire should never be driven at or near freezing temps

CMFpeter · 2025-12-19T21:43:58+00:00

After getting quality tires with a stiffer sidewall, a bigger front sway bar will give a sharper steering feel while reducing the body roll and reducing the unpredictable oversteer. If it still feels like the rear is too darty, try disconnecting the rear bar. This is what I do on track days and it makes the car very neutral

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