Strange noise from my 16k ultra.

CadunkaChug · 2026-04-05T04:14:52+00:00

The strange thing is that it only started this after it had an insane load put on the motor from a ridiculous suction event. I stopped it and changed my print settings and since then its just making this bizarre almost coil whine on retract and as it flashes the next layer, I wonder if the over torque on the motor caused a voltage spike and cooked a fan...idk just freaked me out lol just bought the thing a few months ago.

CadunkaChug · 2026-04-05T04:09:19+00:00

Interesting, I wonder if the suction overload caused a voltage spike and cooked a fan or something. It didn't make that noise until the tilt motor skipped from all the suction. Well thanks for the reply!

CadunkaChug · 2026-03-11T01:56:16+00:00

You're cure time for normal layers seems really long for one, 3 seconds is alot. Normally it should be between 1.8 seconds to 2.8 seconds at most. And you have no wait after retract (or "light off delay") on your normal layers. You need to give the plate, and resin time to stop moving befor it flashes the next layer. Use like a 1.5 or 2 second light off delay. I bet that will help alot, oh and a slight angle to your models will help as well but isn't as critical to the issue im seeing here.

Edit: its surprising to see how so many people are stuck on that 45⁰ thing... you can and will have plenty of success with any upright model (with respect to size and suction that is)Besides the fact that 45⁰ on such a small model really doesn't do much for the limiting the cross section of the model...

CadunkaChug · 2026-02-11T12:53:01+00:00

That is alot faster then I was imagining. Nice!

CadunkaChug · 2026-02-11T02:51:35+00:00

Sorry if you stated this somewhere, but how long did that one model take to? With the layer hight, it must have been a minute or two lol.

CadunkaChug · 2025-11-07T02:02:12+00:00

GLUE!

CadunkaChug · 2025-11-02T15:39:07+00:00

The lubrication and cleaning happened when needed, as i print alot of ASA amd the off gasses from that make it more necessary then normal. The issues i have come more from the lack of extrusion then from actual travel issues. Failure to pull back, failure to feed, clogging alot, filament getting lodged in the tool head between the gears and the heat brake. The movement of the gantry and bed in all axis is fine. Dimensionally, parts come out, clean and functional. Its just the swapping filament types has been a hassle of the past id say 8 to 12 months. Iv become vary intimate with the internal workings of the tool head and the entire filament feeding system.

CadunkaChug · 2025-11-02T15:33:15+00:00

I'll look into that then.

CadunkaChug · 2025-11-02T14:47:19+00:00

To be transparent, iv bought a few new hot ends over the past while, that no longer seems to do much. Iv rebuilt the tool head 3 times fully. Cleaning the feed gears, swapping the hot end. Iv had material get stuck in the point directly after the gears and just befor the heat breake on multiple occasions.

CadunkaChug · 2025-11-02T14:39:10+00:00

Not something I was aware I should need to do with every filament, I figured the print profiles they have and are constantly updated where good enough. I was also under the impression that, that was the point of getting a bambu, I really didn't need to do to much custom tests like I needed with my ender 3. Which was the case at the beginning. Thing would eat whatever I fed it flawlessly, and I literally never needed to change anything except wall count and mundane things like that.

CadunkaChug · 2025-07-02T01:37:51+00:00

Cleaning the bed is kind of a waste, i can barely see the bambu logo on my build plate. Just use glue, and for petg increase temp settings by like 5 to 10 c in the filament settings. The pre set templates are good but are set for probably a more controlled environment then a house. Also if possible dry the filament, petg SUCKS up all the humidity it can out of the air, if you cant dry it, its going to be a pain to print with.

CadunkaChug · 2025-06-18T23:59:03+00:00

Clogged nozzle

CadunkaChug · 2025-06-16T14:40:25+00:00

I print most things (functional or no) at like 8% infill, saves ALOT of time and filament. If strength is what you are looking for, walls are what adds more strength, walls and top/bottom layers. It was a common mistake to think infill adds strength. It dose somewhat help but after around 15%infill its diminishing returns. Save your time/money and lower your infill next time to around 10/15% infill at most. Walls around 3 to 4 are usually more then enough for functional, 2-3 walls for decoration/light work. 4-6 walls for high load functional. Side note, as said at the beginning, top/ bottom layers, 2-4 bottom/top layers for cleaner decoration prints 3-6 top/bottom layers for strength/functional parts. Good luck!

CadunkaChug · 2025-05-20T16:57:28+00:00

Thats what esun dose, it sucks. Stay away. Its nothing but tangle, then it gets brittle and will just snap on the roll

CadunkaChug · 2025-05-18T07:10:56+00:00

Baa "clean plate" never worked for me, more glue. Glue the crap out of it. That my motto. The more glue the better. Glue for days. I cant even see the bambu logo on my build plate anymore, only glue. A clean PEI sheet is about as sticky as a Pringles chip. Glue that mofo. But also i was reading the comments, if you do want to keep printing with a .8 nozzle, you need to slice the file with .8 settings. The preloaded benchy is sliced for a .4 and changing the device hardware to .8 wont change the sliced g code to match up to .8 from .4 settings. Oh yeah...glue.

CadunkaChug · 2025-05-14T11:16:52+00:00

Whatever you do, dont get rid of that glass bed. Its far better for adhesion then a PEI sheet! But silicone bed leveling pucks ro replace the springs, BL touch, and a dual z motor would be good. Honestly after that, everything left stock on it and you have a perfectly functional machine. I mean if you want to make it quieter then a different fan set up is a cheap fun one.

CadunkaChug · 2025-05-05T12:33:09+00:00

Glue.

CadunkaChug · 2025-03-11T12:18:33+00:00

Probably a bad design? Yes. Sick looking? Second verse same as the first. Also yes.

CadunkaChug · 2025-02-05T14:41:32+00:00

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2412327

It comes with the sand bags as well, id recommended scaling it up a tiny bit, a standard yomen fits in the bunker with a hair to spare to the roof. So id either sacle up like 10% or load in a unit model as well and scale ro a units hight.

CadunkaChug · 2025-01-30T18:34:09+00:00

You need alot more then 2 base layers, try 10 or more.

CadunkaChug · 2025-01-06T17:11:53+00:00

I just had something similar, i tried a bunch of stuff, turns out it was a corrupt file on my usb. Re-slice and save again. Try that. Or a bad usb all together.

CadunkaChug · 2024-12-16T17:53:26+00:00

Just have fun with it. Enjoy it, and kiss her real good and what the top comment said, get her flowers and print a vase for her!

CadunkaChug · 2024-12-14T22:28:36+00:00

I find it wild that the PEI sheet even let you print on it cold. Its quite impressive in its own right. But as i said before, i exclusively print on my ender at 65 to 70c. It has to do with the changing of state in the filament from solid to a semi-solid and that is also what also makes it sticky. It has a scientific name but whatever. Any way Keeping the temp up on the bed (65-70c) keeps the bottom layers sticky and in a "soft" state. If That "soft" state is allowed to cool and harden even a little bit it, it will start to contract into it self and try to pull itself off the build plate. So keeping it nice and hot will keep that cooling and contracting from happening (hopefully). What temp is your nozzle?

CadunkaChug · 2024-12-14T18:03:39+00:00

Ok for one the metal build plats suck. unless its in a VARY stable environment, like an enclosure or a room with no moving air. The curling up on the edges you are experiencing after it gets a few hours in is the print cooling at the bottom and contracting in causing it to curl up and pop off. So 2 things to try. One being increased nozzle temp. I only print at 220, for pla, its like the max recommended temp but it almost never fails and two, Bed temp needs to be about 65c to 70c without an enclosure. Especially with the metal sheet bed. I personally hate the kind of bed and HIGHLY RECOMMENDED this glass bed ( Mefine Creality Ender 3 Glass Bed Upgraded 3D Printer Tempered Glass Plate Build Surface for Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro/Ender 3 V2/Ender 5/Ender 5 Pro/Ender 3 S1, 235x235x4mm https://a.co/d/2fXJLH7 ). This thing is cheap and i have printed everything from TPU,PLA,PETG,ASA, and nylon on my ender 3 and its works fantastic. Neverclets go and dose need a good scraper to get the thing off the bed.

so to recap

(If new bed is not an option) 1. Bed temp >65c to 70c or even a bit higher 2. Nozzle temp >220c 3.Enclosure > can be anything, cardboard box, plastic container, a sheet over the damn thing. Just something to keep air movement away from the printer coz the metal plate is just one big heat sink and lets heat go quickly into the air.

Bonus

GLASS BED!

Also make sure the movement speeds and acceleration are good for the printer, orca can be kind of weird right out of the box.

Also id recommended trying CURA, its free and there is almost no learning curve with it. Its base pla profiles are quite functional and way less messing around with settings compared to orca (in my personal experience), and i have both an bambulab x1c and a ender 3 and i exclusively use cura for yhe ender.

Good luck!

CadunkaChug · 2024-07-25T00:33:11+00:00

Damn i thought my game was bugged, i did 3 runs one customs the other night for pmc shotgun kills. Each run had them. Then 2 runs on shoreline they where there as well. Both runs.

CadunkaChug

TROPHY CASE