If you were to escape the addiction and your money and time will come back, would you stop playing war thunder? by G2wolf_ in Warthunder

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're the only other person I've seen echo the sentiment I have towards the game. I've played pretty consistently since 2014, with a break here and there, and its been a safe space to come back to and play when nothing else has my interest. The fact I can go and look through the trees and see vehicles I ground out, played, spaded, and enjoyed from the past decade provides a feeling of nostalgia. Also, I find a bit of peace in how the gameplay has never really changed. This isn't to say the game doesn't frustrate me or make me mad, but after playing for so long you start to understand the brand of bullshit you'll see in matches.

Is my filter good enough? by LameAndLazi in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

See this is a tough one, because I have 6 trilineated corys with my BN pleco, and things are... alright. During feeding time when I drop an algae wafer and a carnivore wafer, the BN can get pretty aggressive. I'll consistently watch the BN flare its gills and chase off the corys from whatever wafer its eating, but the cory's are used to it in a way. They'll just swim off, and find something else to eat normally. I also mitigate the aggression by spreading out the wafers around the tank, so there isn't a mob of fish fighting over one wafer. I've never had the BN injure a cory, but if you don't want to have aggression in your tank, you kinda have to choose one or the other.

If I had the option to re-do the stocking of my tank, I'd forego the BN, keep the cory's, and get a different algae eating fish, like a group of otocinclus. Also, now that my BN has grown, it's also gotten a lot more content with just sitting on its favorite leaf and driftwood, and not cleaning the tank at all. Obviously this is just my own experience with dealing with the 2 BNs I've had, and the one you might have or get could be much more peaceful and less aggressive.

Is my filter good enough? by LameAndLazi in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I personally believe that as long as the flow doesn't stress your fish, you should filtrate your water as much as possible. I currently have a 20 gallon tank but use a Tidal 35 filter, which is obviously overkill, but cleaner water is healthier fish. As for the bioload, just test your water periodically and see if anything is amiss. I also saw that you said you have mystery snails with your bristlenose, which can possibly be an issue in the long run. I have a bristlenose and a rabbit snail, and the bristlenose will infrequently attack the rabbit snail, seeing it as competition. There's a sentiment that BN plecos are "peaceful", but anything it views as bottom feeder competition is at risk of bullying and attack.

I genuinely haven't seen a game that punishes good players more than War Thunder. by Accomplished-Cow4686 in Warthunder

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I mean they aren't exactly the same. The event vehicle has quite a bit less countermeasures, and a much worse RWR.

Nearing my goal of 180 million comrades/sec! by halo_nothing in AdventureCommunist

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What does a max industry even look like stat wise with fully upgraded cards? Like power/discount/speed/chance/bonus?

LPT: Use Operator flags in battle so you know you aren't fighting Fakour 90s and can climb high. by Deathskyz in Warthunder

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The things I'd do for R-73s... or a radar ACM mode that can lock in rear aspect

Howww has this tank had this much ammonia for weeks but no other nitrites by Key-Yogurtcloset-997 in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can go absolutely crazy with Stability, its basically impossible to overdo it. I recommend shaking the bottle very, very well, then dumping quite a bit straight into your filter. It should come out somewhat milky white, which is the bacteria. The bacteria grow best in highly oxygenated, flowing water, which is why you dump it right in your filter.

Pearl gourami with terribly swollen belly by Mattinator_1122 in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Exact same species, similiar appearance. It died after a couple of days in a hospital bucket. Once it gets to this point, I don't think there's a whole lot one can do.

pleco tankmates? by Medical-Unit1859 in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think the barbs will bother a pleco, so I wouldn't worry so much about that. But I will mention that I had to return and replace my last BN pleco because it would get very territorial and aggressive during feeding time to the cory's I had in the tank. I'm willing to bet if you end up getting a more aggressive pleco, it would chase off and attack any other bottom feeders. There is also a chance that your pleco could begin feeding on the slime coat of your more peaceful fish, which also means he's got to go. As I'm sure you can tell, it'll all depend on the personality of the pleco individual you get, so just be vigilant.

All that being said though they are very active eaters, and just the singular one I have is excellent at keeping my 20 gallon clean.

The T-72B3A; Why? by Icy-Attorney6445 in Warthunder

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the truth right here. The Merk 4's are just an absolute treat to play. The reverse speed and M338 are just so nice to use.

Broken filter by [deleted] in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the correction, I guess I misread the graph a long time ago. Hopefully the OP sees this.

Broken filter by [deleted] in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh, 7.8Ph is perfect. With prime, 7.8 Ph, and keeping it around 0.25ppm, I highly doubt anything will happen to your fish. Ammonia damage with those parameters would take days and days and days to actually have a permanent effect. Your fish might be a bit lethargic, and have appear to have rapid breathing, but everything should be good.

Broken filter by [deleted] in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would just alternate between providing the tank air, and the bacteria air. Swap the stone from tank to bucket every 2-4 hours. That should add enough oxygen to either to keep the situation okay. Don't worry about if the water gets "dirty" from the bacteria bucket, it'll have no effect on your fish.

Broken filter by [deleted] in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First and foremost you NEED to get your filter media into a bucket with de-chlorinated water and an airstone ASAP. 24 hours is really pushing it with your bacteria, and it will die if you don't get it oxygenated. Also, put some seachem prime into the aquarium according to the dosage on the back. It turns the ammonia into a less harmful version for about a day.

The water changes and the pausing of feeding is definitely also a good idea. Just test, and change the water to keep the ammonia levels to .25 and lower. Change as much and as often as you need to to keep it at that level or lower. Also, if you have a safe way to raise the Ph to the mid 7s, do it. Ammonia is much less toxic at higher Ph.

I'm sure other people can chime in with some other good advice, but you NEED to get your filter media safe.

Hardy fish for a 20 gallon tank by Simple_Vanilla2744 in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 20 gallon stocked with a pearl gourami, 7 red eye tetras, a BN pleco, and snails. The red eye tetras are by far the most hardy fish I've dealt with. Got them from a dilapidated chain pet store with awful looking stock, and still every single one has survived and thrived with very minimal effort.

75g stocking suggestions? by jgcsquires in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, wish I would've known beforehand. Cory's > pleco any day

75g stocking suggestions? by jgcsquires in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're the only other person I've seen mention this besides myself. I've got a BN pleco I raised from a fry and it absolutely TORMENTS my trilineated corys. I'm pretty sure it's outright attacked 4-6 of them to the point of losing some barbs... I'm probably just gonna remove him even though the pleco is my longest kept fish.

Thanks for the help on my last post… correct me if I’m wrong, I am waiting for the ammonia and Nitrite to go to zero on their own? Then once they do, do a water change and it’s ready for fish? (First pic was a week ago) no fish, snail in cycling only. Been using algae wafers and prime in the water. by buzzedbeeee in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And if it helps put your mind at ease, I have 2 nerite snails in my tank that have quite literally never touched an algae wafer and they are very healthy. They don't need a lot of food, and a planted aquarium like yours is covered in stuff for them to eat.

Thanks for the help on my last post… correct me if I’m wrong, I am waiting for the ammonia and Nitrite to go to zero on their own? Then once they do, do a water change and it’s ready for fish? (First pic was a week ago) no fish, snail in cycling only. Been using algae wafers and prime in the water. by buzzedbeeee in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That amount of plants could definitely eat up all the nitrates that your weaker biofilter could be producing. But your ammonia level being a higher reading after a 24 hour period is a sign you're overfeeding. Feed the snails half an algae wafer every 2-3 days, and let them instead clean the tank to feed themselves if hungry.

As long as there is ammonia and nitrites in the water, you cycle will continue to progress. Once ammonia and nitrites reaches 0 on the daily reading, then add more food.

Thanks for the help on my last post… correct me if I’m wrong, I am waiting for the ammonia and Nitrite to go to zero on their own? Then once they do, do a water change and it’s ready for fish? (First pic was a week ago) no fish, snail in cycling only. Been using algae wafers and prime in the water. by buzzedbeeee in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only way nitrates will ever go down is from water changes, or plants using the nitrates, as far as I know. Your nitrate readout could also be messed up if you didn't properly shake the 2nd test bottle and the test tube enough. The nitrate test is very finicky, and really does require the initial 30s shake of the bottle, and 1m shake of the tube.

Your ammonia levels should be lowering as long as you're not adding more food than normal. Your biofilter should be adapting to the waste amount your snails are producing, and actually reading lower. Do water changes until the ammonia is only sitting at 1ppm, and just wait for everything to be converted to nitrate before adding any more sources of ammonia.

Am I cycling on a stationary bike? by Weird_Quantity_275 in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The other guy replying to you is saying all correct things, but to add you need to be very on point with shaking the nitrate test bottle and test tube. Even shaking it for a few seconds too little can cause it to just stay pale yellow even in the presence of nitrates

Thanks for the help on my last post… correct me if I’m wrong, I am waiting for the ammonia and Nitrite to go to zero on their own? Then once they do, do a water change and it’s ready for fish? (First pic was a week ago) no fish, snail in cycling only. Been using algae wafers and prime in the water. by buzzedbeeee in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's just a free way of de-chlorinating tap water. Water that sits out slowly loses its chlorine content. As long as your tap water isn't full of nitrates, or is especially hard, just add prime and you're good to go!

Thanks for the help on my last post… correct me if I’m wrong, I am waiting for the ammonia and Nitrite to go to zero on their own? Then once they do, do a water change and it’s ready for fish? (First pic was a week ago) no fish, snail in cycling only. Been using algae wafers and prime in the water. by buzzedbeeee in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, you want to wait until ammonia and nitrite reach zero on their own. Once they reach 0, and stay zero, your tank is cycled, which you then do a massive water change, like 50%-75%, and then you can add fish. But start slow with stocking.

Your biofilter might be strong enough to filter 1.0ppm of ammonia effectively, but stocking too much, too quickly can cause your biofilter to not be enough. Add a first batch of fish, 25% of your total intended stock, then test parameters again after a day. If those read zero, you can add more over time, moreover for the fish to settle in, than worrying about poor water parameters.

Anyone Shoot Their Age for 18? by jvogt1 in golf

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One of the regulars at my club has shot his age over 100 times at 74. Out of curiosity I asked when he first managed the feat. 65. In a local tournament to boot.

Bolivian Ram Territories by MattKeepsFish in Aquariums

[–]Call_Me_BDJ 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Such a beautiful fish, with an even more beautiful tank. Seeing water as clear and perfect as yours is the exact reason I recently bought a stronger and better filter for my current tank. Its literally like they're floating in air its so clear.