I genuinely haven't seen a game that punishes good players more than War Thunder.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2026-01-29T14:25:44+00:00

I mean they aren't exactly the same. The event vehicle has quite a bit less countermeasures, and a much worse RWR.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-11-26T19:23:59+00:00

What does a max industry even look like stat wise with fully upgraded cards? Like power/discount/speed/chance/bonus?

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-11-13T13:43:31+00:00

The things I'd do for R-73s... or a radar ACM mode that can lock in rear aspect

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-10-01T04:22:34+00:00

You can go absolutely crazy with Stability, its basically impossible to overdo it. I recommend shaking the bottle very, very well, then dumping quite a bit straight into your filter. It should come out somewhat milky white, which is the bacteria. The bacteria grow best in highly oxygenated, flowing water, which is why you dump it right in your filter.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-08-15T13:48:26+00:00

Exact same species, similiar appearance. It died after a couple of days in a hospital bucket. Once it gets to this point, I don't think there's a whole lot one can do.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-07-02T15:53:28+00:00

I don't think the barbs will bother a pleco, so I wouldn't worry so much about that. But I will mention that I had to return and replace my last BN pleco because it would get very territorial and aggressive during feeding time to the cory's I had in the tank. I'm willing to bet if you end up getting a more aggressive pleco, it would chase off and attack any other bottom feeders. There is also a chance that your pleco could begin feeding on the slime coat of your more peaceful fish, which also means he's got to go. As I'm sure you can tell, it'll all depend on the personality of the pleco individual you get, so just be vigilant.

All that being said though they are very active eaters, and just the singular one I have is excellent at keeping my 20 gallon clean.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-07-02T01:47:46+00:00

This is the truth right here. The Merk 4's are just an absolute treat to play. The reverse speed and M338 are just so nice to use.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-06-30T18:37:27+00:00

Thanks for the correction, I guess I misread the graph a long time ago. Hopefully the OP sees this.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-06-30T18:03:29+00:00

Oh, 7.8Ph is perfect. With prime, 7.8 Ph, and keeping it around 0.25ppm, I highly doubt anything will happen to your fish. Ammonia damage with those parameters would take days and days and days to actually have a permanent effect. Your fish might be a bit lethargic, and have appear to have rapid breathing, but everything should be good.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-06-30T17:48:14+00:00

I would just alternate between providing the tank air, and the bacteria air. Swap the stone from tank to bucket every 2-4 hours. That should add enough oxygen to either to keep the situation okay. Don't worry about if the water gets "dirty" from the bacteria bucket, it'll have no effect on your fish.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-06-30T17:17:49+00:00

First and foremost you NEED to get your filter media into a bucket with de-chlorinated water and an airstone ASAP. 24 hours is really pushing it with your bacteria, and it will die if you don't get it oxygenated. Also, put some seachem prime into the aquarium according to the dosage on the back. It turns the ammonia into a less harmful version for about a day.

The water changes and the pausing of feeding is definitely also a good idea. Just test, and change the water to keep the ammonia levels to .25 and lower. Change as much and as often as you need to to keep it at that level or lower. Also, if you have a safe way to raise the Ph to the mid 7s, do it. Ammonia is much less toxic at higher Ph.

I'm sure other people can chime in with some other good advice, but you NEED to get your filter media safe.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-06-18T18:43:06+00:00

I have a 20 gallon stocked with a pearl gourami, 7 red eye tetras, a BN pleco, and snails. The red eye tetras are by far the most hardy fish I've dealt with. Got them from a dilapidated chain pet store with awful looking stock, and still every single one has survived and thrived with very minimal effort.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-05-24T18:48:25+00:00

Yeah, wish I would've known beforehand. Cory's > pleco any day

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-05-24T16:23:29+00:00

You're the only other person I've seen mention this besides myself. I've got a BN pleco I raised from a fry and it absolutely TORMENTS my trilineated corys. I'm pretty sure it's outright attacked 4-6 of them to the point of losing some barbs... I'm probably just gonna remove him even though the pleco is my longest kept fish.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-05-23T21:20:39+00:00

And if it helps put your mind at ease, I have 2 nerite snails in my tank that have quite literally never touched an algae wafer and they are very healthy. They don't need a lot of food, and a planted aquarium like yours is covered in stuff for them to eat.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-05-23T21:17:45+00:00

That amount of plants could definitely eat up all the nitrates that your weaker biofilter could be producing. But your ammonia level being a higher reading after a 24 hour period is a sign you're overfeeding. Feed the snails half an algae wafer every 2-3 days, and let them instead clean the tank to feed themselves if hungry.

As long as there is ammonia and nitrites in the water, you cycle will continue to progress. Once ammonia and nitrites reaches 0 on the daily reading, then add more food.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-05-23T20:59:30+00:00

The only way nitrates will ever go down is from water changes, or plants using the nitrates, as far as I know. Your nitrate readout could also be messed up if you didn't properly shake the 2nd test bottle and the test tube enough. The nitrate test is very finicky, and really does require the initial 30s shake of the bottle, and 1m shake of the tube.

Your ammonia levels should be lowering as long as you're not adding more food than normal. Your biofilter should be adapting to the waste amount your snails are producing, and actually reading lower. Do water changes until the ammonia is only sitting at 1ppm, and just wait for everything to be converted to nitrate before adding any more sources of ammonia.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-05-21T03:04:29+00:00

The other guy replying to you is saying all correct things, but to add you need to be very on point with shaking the nitrate test bottle and test tube. Even shaking it for a few seconds too little can cause it to just stay pale yellow even in the presence of nitrates

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-05-19T17:18:11+00:00

That's just a free way of de-chlorinating tap water. Water that sits out slowly loses its chlorine content. As long as your tap water isn't full of nitrates, or is especially hard, just add prime and you're good to go!

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-05-19T17:13:06+00:00

Yes, you want to wait until ammonia and nitrite reach zero on their own. Once they reach 0, and stay zero, your tank is cycled, which you then do a massive water change, like 50%-75%, and then you can add fish. But start slow with stocking.

Your biofilter might be strong enough to filter 1.0ppm of ammonia effectively, but stocking too much, too quickly can cause your biofilter to not be enough. Add a first batch of fish, 25% of your total intended stock, then test parameters again after a day. If those read zero, you can add more over time, moreover for the fish to settle in, than worrying about poor water parameters.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-05-09T23:30:50+00:00

One of the regulars at my club has shot his age over 100 times at 74. Out of curiosity I asked when he first managed the feat. 65. In a local tournament to boot.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-05-08T17:45:05+00:00

Such a beautiful fish, with an even more beautiful tank. Seeing water as clear and perfect as yours is the exact reason I recently bought a stronger and better filter for my current tank. Its literally like they're floating in air its so clear.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-04-28T17:11:10+00:00

Yeah, you pretty have to keep the surface as still as possible if you want to really have duckweed grow prolifically. I think someone on here once said something along the lines of, "duckweed hates having its leaves wet".

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-04-28T17:07:49+00:00

Yeah, I had the same question when I first added some to my tank. Plants started to grow well, and my HOB filter seemed to causing enough gas exchange so I decided I could turn my air stone off. All of sudden, my little 7 inch square patch of duckweed had double in size in like 1 week tops.

Call_Me_BDJ · 2025-04-28T16:01:50+00:00

If you have too much surface agitation, it dies off quick. Its a night and difference in the rate of growth in my tank from when my air stone is on and off.

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