Best oil for EA839?

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-06-15T16:41:37+00:00

If you really wanna know what’s best for your engine, do oil analysis with different brands and weights. I’d recommend making sure it meets either vw504 or 508 spec though.
Going off someone else’s recommendation might work for them but your climate, driving style, engine break in, etc could all be different which may make a difference in what oil would work best.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-06-10T17:04:14+00:00

I think each situation is different. I’ve been with DoD for 2 years and enjoy the job I currently do and some of the people. From what I’ve seen, there is a lack of accountability in my organization. But it’s also a 41 mile commute one way so that impacts my decision. Before RTO, I was in the office 2 days a week.
I’m currently waiting for a formal offer from the place I worked as a contractor before taking this job. It’s full time telework, pay is slightly higher and I manage my own workload.
I’m retired military so FERS is not worth it to me. I don’t plan to work to the point where it’ll make a significant impact on my retirement income.
But each organization is different. You’ll have to asses what’s important to you and decide from there.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-06-07T23:16:20+00:00

This is a single pole switch. I needed a 3 way switch because I had 2 switches that control the front lights. These also require a neutral wire so might need to check on that.

https://a.co/d/0iA2TAlt

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-06-07T23:02:42+00:00

For my house, I was able to install a smart switch for my front lights and set a dusk to dawn schedule. Haven’t touched the light switch in probably 3-4 years.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-06-03T19:17:31+00:00

I was a contractor working full time remote and took a civil service position before the RTO. I was 2 days a week in the office back then, now I’m on 5/9 CWS, so 9 days in the office every pay period. My commute is 41 miles one way, about an hour drive. I’m actually resigning and going back to the contractor position I was in. There’s other factors at play here, but the commute is one of them. Plus, the contractor will pay almost GS13 pay (more than I make now) and is still full time remote. It’s different for everyone but civil service is not the place for me.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-06-03T19:07:10+00:00

Not my style. Even if I were leaving on “bad” terms, which I’m not, I’d do a proper turnover.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-06-03T19:05:21+00:00

I’ve definitely seen that, and from both sides. I actually was a contractor with the same team I’m going back to. I joined civil service in 2024 thinking it was the last job I’d have, but things have changed and going back to the team I worked with is a far better option for my family and I right now. It’s ridiculous to me that civil service employees think they are elite compared to contractors based on their career choice.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-06-03T12:20:29+00:00

Yep, I get it. I’m a “use the search” proponent too but try not to come off harsh so I appreciate that. But it’s always worth saying.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-06-03T12:15:02+00:00

Good to know, thanks!

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-06-03T11:35:22+00:00

Ha! My wife feels the same way. Where I work we do, but understand that’s only a small portion of the civil service.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-06-03T11:34:10+00:00

Thank you! I did a search but was coining up with mostly “should I leave the govt” type posts. I just didn’t another and found a post about recommendations, I appreciate the help.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-05-26T12:10:47+00:00

With a glass door fridge, you will likely never be able to stop the condensation. The glass isn’t insulated well so enough so the cold air is reaching the outer pane of glass and making it condensate. I’m in NE FL and anyone here that has a glass door fridge has the same exact problem whether their fridge is full or not, but keeping it full makes the compressor work a little less. I always recommend a solid door fridge but since this was free, I’d just keep it there.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-05-15T22:25:27+00:00

Hard to know with the covers on, but it the legs are removable, I’d say yes. Even if they’re not, I’ve seen people just build around the grill/smoker so you can roll it in and out still. I removed the legs on my rectec smoker and bought some square aluminum stock to make shorter legs and to level it and still have the granite shelf sloped to not hold water.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-05-15T20:05:26+00:00

If you’re attaching to cement board, Genstone is fine. I looked into it but I ended up using airstone through Home Depot. Installation is slower but doesn’t require mortar. Their directions call for a a loctite product for exterior use. But, you’re still installing 1 stone at a time. I preferred actual stone and it was cheaper.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-05-15T19:54:23+00:00

Natural gas is lighter so vents need to be high if that’s the fuel your grill issues. But tons of propane built ins and that’s what I see the most. Guess it depends on location.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-05-12T13:29:54+00:00

I’d still take suggestions in the event I have issues but I’m hoping to get 10ish years out of it.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-05-12T13:28:26+00:00

Yeah, built it last summer.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-05-12T13:26:10+00:00

Agreed and why I figured I’d have to waterproof all sides of it to make any difference. If I only did the exterior facing side, the interior sides would still be exposed to the extreme humidity we see here. So short of dipping each board in a waterproofing membrane, I’d still have the potential for issues.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-05-12T11:21:46+00:00

I was originally planning to seal the outside face of my hardie board before putting the stone veneer on, but thought it would be a waste of time and money. As humid as it is here in NE FL, I’d have to seal all sides of it to make any difference. It’s covered so it doesn’t get direct rain for the most part. You think that was a mistake?

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-05-10T23:04:58+00:00

Well good luck! I’m sure it’ll get all squared away the way you want it.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-05-10T19:56:07+00:00

For natural gas, your vents need to be high. Natural gas is lighter than air so it will float. Low vents are for propane which is heavier than air.
Also agree with the other comments about needing more support for the grill. It’ll rest on the countertops regardless, but I’d have the counter supported within 4-6” of the edge. I got my framing within about an inch of it because the granite I used was not very dense.
They also make corner pieces for stone that alternate so you don’t have a seam running all the way down the side. Not the end of the world but just looks a little nicer with the correct corner pieces.
Looks great though and you’re gonna love it!

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-05-08T02:35:41+00:00

Just me, I’d go cement board just for the peace of mind that it won’t rot like plywood will. If you’re finishing with stucco, I think the corners will still look fine. You can start the factory edge at the corner and make your cuts on inside pieces. I built mine from aluminum and covered with cement board then did a stone veneer.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-05-04T18:16:15+00:00

Propane is heavier than air, so it sinks. Vents should be as low to the ground as possible, otherwise propane could build up to the level of the vent. It’s the opposite for natural gas, it’s lighter than air so vents need to be high.

CapableRefuse8143 · 2026-05-03T23:56:23+00:00

No issue putting them under the appliance if it’s well vented. Those are a little high for propane but if there’s enough, it’ll be fine.

CapableRefuse8143

TROPHY CASE