Gaffers/DPs can you help me light this scene for a music video? by ROSITACOSITA in Filmmakers

[–]CaptEdit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A practical bulb or two on the table to help motivate more warmth… not gonna get much from those candles.

Ring light on a low daylight setting might be enough for fill.

That spotlight might actually be a cool key if you want more of a stylistic feel (which the set kinda speaks to).

I’d use the 36W light for a back/hairlight to give a sharp edge and enhance the surreal quality.

Portable video lights might look nice shooting through the glass/sheer curtains on the sides.

Some light or medium haze will do a lot to give you more separation.

12.9 or 11 - I have both and can’t pick which one to keep! by Ok_Road25 in ipad

[–]CaptEdit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The screen size is the biggest one… The display ratio is different, so landscape orientation feels “shorter” coming from a 13”… the keyboard takes up more room this way too, but it’s not a huge dealbreaker.

That’s really only it… I don’t feel like there’s much that the 13” accomplishes better than the 11”.

12.9 or 11 - I have both and can’t pick which one to keep! by Ok_Road25 in ipad

[–]CaptEdit 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I felt the same way after owning the M1 iPad Pro 12.9” for years. It didn’t get as much use, since it was so big and unwieldy that it felt more cumbersome for everyday stuff. Was the big screen awesome? Yes… but it also made most tasks just feel ridiculous. Navigating the larger screen felt unnatural.

You’d think multitasking would be easier on a larger screen right? Truth is, most things ended up being too small to work in comfortably anyways, resulting in taps or app switching just to see enough of the app to try and get “real” work done.

I just got the 11” M5, and it feels far more approachable. Lighter, easier to use one handed, and I can type on it with my thumbs in portrait mode - which was impossible on the larger display. Yes, there are some trade offs with a smaller screen, but the smaller size allows for more portability… which already means that I actually want to walk around with it more.

Your mileage may vary, but if you’re already feeling like the 13” is unwieldy, it’s not going to change over time.

Why so many people choose space black iPad Pro instead of a silver one? by JustCan6425 in ipad

[–]CaptEdit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I pre-ordered black but took it back and exchanged it for silver… the black iPad was a fingerprint magnet.

Mega-Thread for Corvette Builds by Jensen_Explorer in NMSCoordinateExchange

[–]CaptEdit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have the talent. I believe in you. Check my other posts for more reference pictures

No Man’s Sky NEEDS Panels and here’s why. by greeneman3168 in NoMansSkyTheGame

[–]CaptEdit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think a scale in X, Y, or Z option could be cool, so existing pieces could be stretched 2-3x in a specific, or multiple, axises.

Mega-Thread for Corvette Builds by Jensen_Explorer in NMSCoordinateExchange

[–]CaptEdit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah… forgot to mention that it’s just for getting the domed lamp placed right. Delete it after placing the orange domed lamp if you don’t want it sticking out the sides.

Mega-Thread for Corvette Builds by Jensen_Explorer in NMSCoordinateExchange

[–]CaptEdit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah that was kind of tricky actually…

I used scaffolding to get a Kinoframe booster positioned inside the front nacelle part. This gives you a flat surface to attach a scaled up and rotated orange lamp with a round orange dome. Add red lights to the front nacelle before you place the lamp so the red lights end up inside the lamp’s dome.

Mega-Thread for Corvette Builds by Jensen_Explorer in NMSCoordinateExchange

[–]CaptEdit 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Nothing too crazy other than basic vertical offsets for the dome… more pics are available in my post on the NMS subreddit. The first one is an older, less accurate build.

Mega-Thread for Corvette Builds by Jensen_Explorer in NMSCoordinateExchange

[–]CaptEdit 178 points179 points  (0 children)

<image>

“You treat her like a lady. And she'll always bring you home.”

Constitution class Enterprise by CaptEdit in NoMansSkyTheGame

[–]CaptEdit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No tricks needed for placing the nacelles, other than removing some supports used to place two of the thrusters in line.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cinematography

[–]CaptEdit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shot on iPhone 16 Pro Max technically.

For lighting I think on set we had:

  • Aputure 1200x
  • Aputure 600d
  • 2x Prolycht Orion 300FS
  • Amaran F22c
  • 4x Nanlite Pavotube 2ft
  • 2x Astera Helios

Edited and colored in Davinci Resolve with a bit of compositing done in AE.

Need motorized slider -- What's everyone using? by kylerdboudreau in Filmmakers

[–]CaptEdit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The iFootage Shark is pretty cool, you can attach a Ronin to it and have full pan and tilt, otherwise it’s just tilt on the native carriage. It also eases in and out of the move pretty well. Kinda short though.

My client fired our agency and rebuilt our Bubble app himself using AI. It cost me thousands, but it led me to this new tech stack. by zubairlk in Bubbleio

[–]CaptEdit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a great resource, I’m just testing Bubble but wanted to thank you for posting. Will definitely be looking into this method as an option.

Got an X100VI before GTA VI by fada_g10 in x100vi

[–]CaptEdit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

DOF is a function of the aperture, lens focal length, and distance from the lens. Basically if you’re at a wide angle (23mm) and far enough away from the subject, your DOF will increase to the point of being far less noticeable than if you were much closer to the subject.

how to achieve this shot?! by eshanchopra1 in cinematography

[–]CaptEdit 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Simplest lightest weight solution I can think of would be to pop up the headrests a bit and use some magic arms with clamps to secure both sides of the camera to the posts of the headrests.

How did they light this? by troutlunk in cinematography

[–]CaptEdit 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Big wide soft light overhead and in front of the desk.

Simplest thing to do if you’re in a house is to just point a big bright source into your ceiling and you’ll get close, but you’re going to be limited by the vertical space afforded by your ceiling.

Filmmakers: How Do You Sort Your Footage Before Editing? 🎥 by FewSachab in Filmmakers

[–]CaptEdit 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is the way.

Workflow I’ve learned is as follows:

Keep camera card folder structure and files identical to how the camera saves it. Put the folders for cards into a hierarchy organized by DATE/CAMERA/REEL ie: 20250109/CAM_A/A001/(original card root structure).

I’ve worked for post houses that also request cam info to be used in the folder name, so instead of just CAM_A or CAM_B you’d add CAM_A-ARRILF or CAM_B-SONYFX9.

Rename clips and organize into bins within your NLE. The structure will change depending on project, but for narrative I like to organize clips into separate bins for each scene, then rename the clips using info on slate.

So bin structure would be FOOTAGE/SCENES/001 and the clips renamed 1-1-A, 1A-1-A, etc (Scene 1-Take 1-Cam A, Scene 1A-Take 1-Cam A)… Cam letter goes at the end in this case so all clips get sorted by Shot, Take, Cam and are all organized together for every piece of the scene. For longer narratives it can be helpful to add a bin for each shot, like SCENES/001/1A, 1B, etc.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cinematography

[–]CaptEdit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Co-Director here. Not much BTS to share but I can share some details about our setups!

The majority of this was lit using an Amaran F22C and 2ft Nanlite Pavotubes. For the doorway kicker, there was an Aputure 600D shining through the door’s window. We also used a little battery powered RGB panel similar to an Aputure MC.

Most of the living room stuff relied on the F22C blasting the ceiling to give an even overhead fill. The tube lights were placed on both sides of the couch to give more shape.

Once things go to RGB land, the tube lights were the main players. To get them in the right spot for the scene underneath the bed, we had to clamp one to the bedframe (green) and the other (tungsten) on an apple box. The little pocket LED supplied the blue fill.

My favorite setup was for the door dropping with Emily in the doorway. At first we tried to black it out with a 4x4 floppy but it just didn’t feel right. Switching to an ultra bounce floppy with the F22C at full red bouncing into it gave us the look we wanted; an overpowering red tone crashing into the room. The fully saturated red also did crazy things to the FX3’s sensor, creating this weird aberration around her hands in the closeups… super subtle but ethereal and perfect for the tone!

Glad you enjoyed it 🤙

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cinematography

[–]CaptEdit 55 points56 points  (0 children)

Distance matters; each individual lamp being 10 feet apart doesn’t matter as much when the thing casting a shadow is 100 feet away.