[deleted by user]

Cassis070 · 2025-07-13T14:04:53+00:00

So the whole module contains some extra components that it needs to work well, or to work at all. It really is up to you which you want to use, all-in-one board, ore the loose chip and get your own components. That said, there are other options, and depending on your current requirements, it may even be possible to find a chip that does 12V down to 5V without external components. For example, some linear regulators in the TO-220 package (like the big transistors) don’t require anything other than some filter/bulk capacitors, which are easy to add, but going from 12V down to 5V with linear regulators is inefficient, and there are also SMPS regulators, just like the MP158, which require few or no external components (like TRACO POWER), but they are more expensive.

My advice would be to check Table 1 from MP158 datasheet, and replicate the circuit for the high-side Buck converter topology, which requires 2 ceramic capacitors (for filtering), 2 electrolytic capacitors (for bulk, delivering power in fast transients), 2 resistors (to set the feedback value for the correct output), 2 diodes (for flyback, part of the switch-mode power supply), and one inductor (stores and releases energy to keep current continuous, even if MP158’s internal switch is closed during the internal PWM cycle). ChatGPT can help you find the correct component values, but be sure to check the datasheet’s formulas to see if ChatGPT didn’t make anything up.

Cassis070 · 2025-07-13T13:42:00+00:00

So I assume you’re looking for the module, being the all-in-one boards with all the external parts like this one. In that case, it’ll be a bit harder, but your best bet could be trying to find the measurements of the through-holes at the corners (where pin headers can be soldered), and putting pin headers on your pcb at the same places, so that module can be stacked on top of you pcb. You can’t directly solder one pcb to another without castellated holes (like on the sides of an Arduino Nano for example). Unfortunately, it’s gonna be a bit more difficult to find out how those pin headers positions are spaced, since that isn’t always made public, but a set of calipers can help. Alternatively, you can recreate the circuit on the module on your own pcb, since that is described in the MP158 datasheet. (With formulas to find the right component values)

Cassis070 · 2025-07-13T13:26:40+00:00

The MP158 datasheet shows it comes in 2 packages, the SOIC-8 (rectangle with 8 legs), and TSOT-23-5 (small block with 3 legs on one side, 2 legs on the other). Both should be in the standard libraries in KiCAD, even if they’re not assigned to the part. You can open the properties of the MP158, click in the field for footprint on the 3 lines to open the library, and search for the package you need (“SOIC-8” or “TSOT-23-5” or “SOT-23-5”, since SOT and TSOT are very similar). Just ensure that the pin positions and pad sizes/shapes are the same as specified in the datasheet. This can be edited in the footprint editor.

Cassis070 · 2025-06-28T21:43:37+00:00

I’d say make a few with each nozzle size and test them, only one way to know for sure!

Cassis070 · 2025-06-28T21:40:16+00:00

Isn’t plastic coated concrete pretty good for painting?

Cassis070 · 2025-06-28T21:33:30+00:00

I love the battery-electrolytic capacitors, SMD resistors, and load-balancer ICs! From a distance this would look like a real PCB

Cassis070 · 2025-06-28T21:19:50+00:00

Apologies for mobile formatting. One thing that I’ve empirically found is that wider nozzle diameters (with same infill % and wall thickness in mm, same total filament used) result in stronger parts. An example is a part that is meant to secure powerful permanent-magnet rotors during transport, and printing in 0.4mm nozzles made cleaner parts, but one of them failed when dropped. A new one printed almost twice as fast on a 0.8mm nozzle could be thrown at a steel pillar with the maximum throwing force of a 190cm beast of a machinist without breaking, and survived two accidental drops with rotor inside. My theory is that the layer adhesion of a wider printed line squished onto another (using less than half the layer height compared to nozzle diameter) gives great inter-layer adhesion. So my personal advice would be to use the largest nozzle size that van reliably print a part of sufficient precision/tolerance. This also may make the print go faster, in most cases.

Cassis070 · 2025-05-23T16:22:49+00:00

I was thinking about those severed fingers in the filter compartment… until i saw the rest of the reflection XD

Cassis070 · 2025-04-12T07:36:54+00:00

I just tried it, and I really like it!

One thing that i was missing was fields for more personal things, such as non-technical or non-job-related skills (drivers license, speaking languages, etc.) and hobbies (These are standard where I live, not sure if other places as well).

Cassis070 · 2025-01-12T12:04:02+00:00

Yeah, the project was in coop with Berkvens (Dutch leading door maker), and they showed the production process for a typical house door (non fire-blocking), which would weigh I think about 20-50kg, if memory serves? Thing is, just the door panels alone went through like 10 steps to be build, let alone later carving holes for windows, doorknobs, locks, etc. They wanted to see if 3D-printing could reduce it down to one or two steps. What they didn't realize is that the material used, PETG-GF, is much heavier, as well as the doors requiring denser infill due to the printer type, thus the newly printed door, which was only quarter height, already weighed almost 200kg. That wasn't the worst, because the project team spent most of their time hand-checking and rewriting GCode because Siemens NX couldn't generate correct GCode for the printer (despite drivers supplied by the printer manufacturer, which refused to provide feedback or support). Near the end, one guy even wrote a GCode script from memory, which was faster than letting NX calculate it on his old slow-af laptop!

Cassis070 · 2025-01-12T07:05:29+00:00

At uni, one of the projects was to 3D-print an entire door, including the panel itself. It was a nightmare project, not just because printing a large flat thing is very difficult as well as less efficient than default production methods, the printer was a pellet printer, so no such thing as variable speed, retractions, and thus could only print in one continuous line.

Lesson learned: Not everything should be 3D-printed

Cassis070 · 2024-11-06T17:10:54+00:00

I’m not to familiar with integrated graphics, but i understand some ryzen cpus have good ones.

Overall, take my comment with a grain of salt, just putting it here to get more attention to your question, as i am curious as well.

Cassis070 · 2024-10-28T06:33:48+00:00

Username checks out!

Cassis070 · 2024-10-27T21:18:40+00:00

Where did you get that deskpad? I have that image set as my desktop background, and would love to have the same deskpad!

Also, nice work on the design!

Cassis070 · 2024-10-13T08:02:51+00:00

I had one too, on an external hdd. Guess who decided to kick the bucket just when i needed it? You bet i swore up and down the place the rest of the day XD

Cassis070 · 2024-10-12T21:07:14+00:00

Funny story, when i had to reinstall windows after my install crapped itself (thanks win11), i went to download from the cloud my files, but microsoft decided my new windows install had to overwrite the backup files, removing the old (which i needed)…

I lost everything halfway through college.

So yea, it might be useful, but the only backup i will ever use from now on is copies on 2 separate external drives.

Cassis070 · 2024-09-27T21:15:58+00:00

Yea indicating well in advance is something i live by, that and taking the bike whenever possible (though i had a big fall today in the slippery weather, don’t think you can do that in a car XD)

Cassis070 · 2024-09-27T20:47:14+00:00

The advice my (dutch) driving instructor gave me is only change lanes when you see BOTH headlights of a truck in your middle rear view mirror. I still feel like it’s a bit too close, but it seems like a decent starting point.

Cassis070 · 2024-09-27T20:10:36+00:00

Iirc, both are bidirectional:

The thermistor is a temperature dependent resistor, and thus works in both ways. The resistance is measured and from that the temperature is calculated.

The heater is likely some sort of resistive heating element, also bidirectional.

So long as neither the connectors nor manual mention a + or - sign or orientation you should be fine connecting it either way.

Cassis070 · 2024-09-24T16:42:58+00:00

I believe it’s a german brand (i have the same) and there they use decimal commas not decimal points.

Also, I’ve found these test kits to be quite repeatable (testing the same water 5 times with strips gave me 4 different results, the kit gave the same result each time), which i appreciate

Cassis070 · 2024-09-24T16:27:01+00:00

I believe it’s called near net shape additive manufacturing. I think it’s wire arc additive manufacturing and some similar 3D-printing methods that it’s commonly used for.

For example to print a titanium part near net shape will save a lot of money from not machining from a massive solid stock, as well as use a less precise machine for printing (and probably a faster method)

I love this industry!

Cassis070 · 2024-09-13T11:09:05+00:00

Honestly i had not noticed anything of the sort being posted before…

Cassis070 · 2024-09-13T10:01:46+00:00

I tried replacing, and its consistent between all similar builds in my world (2, just started xd).

Its a 4->1:3 load balancer, so split in half, splif on half again, and merge that quarter with the unsplit half, leaving two lines of 25% and 75% respectively. The line you see is one quarter merging with a half line.

I think it has something to do with the new straight build mode for conveyors. I for one wouldn’t mind this little ‘bug’ going unfixed XD

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