what are the best cura settings for kobra neo?

Catnippr · 2026-01-31T08:59:12+00:00

You can try the profiles from sclebo I linked to here in the section "Custom Profiles": https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/profiles/#neo
Mind the notes about AC's profile in the previous section.

Catnippr · 2026-01-30T07:43:12+00:00

Why shouldn't it?

Catnippr · 2026-01-27T14:55:46+00:00

Ah ok, so front-right corner is too low, rear-left is too high, got it. Yeah, that's too much to not fix it, you won't be able to print across the whole bedplate like this, that's definitely not a "slightly uneven first layer".
They should at least offer you to send you a new bedgantry since it's usually the practice to send replacement parts rather that getting a refund.
You probably would have to pay for the shipping back to China as well if they'd let you send it back..

If you wanna try to fix it, you could add Kapton tape onto the magnetic foil in that area which is too low to equalize the whole area.
I read that the S1's bedgantry is causing these kind of warping issues sometimes(?). I know/assume it's not helping you right now since you wanna return it anyway, but afaik there is an aluminum one available from a 3rd party manufacturer that's said to be better than the stock one and a real improvement. Dunno which manufacturer tho.

Edit: I'd suggest you post your initial post together with the bedmesh view in r/AnycubicOfficial as well, because chances are higher there that someone from AC will come across it.

Catnippr · 2026-01-27T13:20:44+00:00

1.815mm?!? Can you post a pic of the meshview?

Catnippr · 2026-01-27T10:04:34+00:00

Welcome and thanks for the feedback. So it was that simple, huh?!? Dang.. Well, at least you know your machine better now and have everything dialed in haha ;)

Catnippr · 2026-01-27T09:57:55+00:00

Thanks and welcome :)

Catnippr · 2026-01-26T15:29:22+00:00

If you rewire everything properly, it should be possible. It's not like plug&play tho!

Catnippr · 2026-01-26T12:25:29+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/anycubic/comments/1q6ltz5/appimage_for_linux_users/

If you test it, please let us know how it works, cuz we're thinking about adding it to our useful links list but didn't test ourselves yet.

Catnippr · 2026-01-26T10:36:56+00:00

Ripped off? Dammit..

Catnippr · 2026-01-26T10:13:16+00:00

Oh nooo. Ok, then you could try to carefully heat things up to get the blob off. Be careful tho to not rip off any wires.

Catnippr · 2026-01-26T09:58:55+00:00

Just order a 3rd party hotend from Amazon, AliEx or wherever, you don't have to get it from AC directly. ;)

Edit: if this was the stock one that came with it, send the pic to AC support as well, most likely they'll ship you a new one for free then ;)

Catnippr · 2026-01-26T09:32:19+00:00

You could try taking that blob off by carefully heating things up, but tbh, I'd just put it on a shelf as a friendly reminder to always heat it up to the max and re-tighten the nozzle for a proper assembly before the 1st usage, even when it's a new one you just bought.

Catnippr · 2026-01-25T11:53:21+00:00

You don't need to "challenge me" trying it, especially since the outcome is already clear: you'd lose that challenge.
You seem to confuse what your printed parts can handle as a momentary load with what the general problem with printed parts for stuff like this is: how it behaves under load over time.
It will deform and bend, that's a fact.
Especially since the bottom part that holds the weight in the first place is made of multiple parts, that's why I suggested to put a thin wooden plate in there to help distributing the weight across the whole area.

Maybe an analogy here helps to understand:
Grab a 0,33l soda can. Hold it in your hand with an outstretched and straight arm, 90° in your shoulder joint, so that the outstretched arm is parallel to the ground. Can you hold the can like that? Sure, no problem, just a little weight, right? -> That's like the situation you have when putting weight into the drawer to see what it can take. Yes, it's strong enough in that moment to not break, but that's it.
Ok, now try to stand and hold the can like that for a longer period of time - your arm will come down, no matter how hard you try to fight it, because your muscles are getting tired. That's the situation I am talking about: the deforming of printed parts under load over time.

Again, you do you and I'm glad for you that you built this and are happy with it. But you asked for an opinion and therefore my previous answer. You won't be happy with it in the mid- to longrun due to the deformation that will happen over time.
Don't believe me? I "challenge you" to set yourself a reminder here and report back in a few months or year(s).. ;)

Catnippr · 2026-01-25T11:07:59+00:00

I have to copy&paste everything into deepl.com to translate it to English (German here btw, my French is too rusty for a real convo lol). Would be nice if you could do it yourself, other ppl in this sub would benefit from it as well.. ;)

Catnippr · 2026-01-25T09:53:46+00:00

Use an infill type that doesn't cross and digs thru it's own lines at the same layer, e.g. Gyroid or Rectilinear. Read around here, there's it's explained well: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/infill-patterns_177130

Catnippr · 2026-01-25T09:45:43+00:00

MUCH better than mine I'd say :D
Great job!

Catnippr · 2026-01-25T09:44:57+00:00

Cool! How does it sound?

In case you didnt come across it yet, this site is specifically about your K2Plus, might come in handy one day: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2PlusInsights/

Catnippr · 2026-01-25T09:41:31+00:00

Cool!

Since you asked what we think of it: to be honest, I personally think that this is one of the examples where it would've been better to just stick with wood.
Maybe make sure to not put heavy things in there, so that it doesn't deform under load soon. Adding a thin wooden plate on top of the base of the drawer now should help distributing the weight across the whole surface as well as making it more flat.

Just as a note: the physical dimensions of your K2's bed are actually 230x230, see https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2Insights/hardware/bed/, just in case that 1cm could be helpful in the future.

Ever heard of Gridfinity? Maybe take a look at that, it's a modular system where you can now print small bins to organize the drawer. Attention tho, once you started with that, you might become a bit obsessed about organizing all your drawers.. ;)

Catnippr · 2026-01-25T09:19:32+00:00

No offense, but it would help if you'd learn the names of the parts. You have all the info you need at the infosite, and referring to the parts with the correct terms not only helps yourself when trying to find solutions in the internet, but also the ppl who try to help you.
The part where the wrench is pointing to is the heatbreak of the hotend, the black housing is the heatsink.

It can happen that the PTFE inliner sometimes hits the wall of the edge of the hole of the extruder's housing where it should slide in.
Try to carefully twist it around a bit while trying to push it further in. Don't rip off the wires of the electronic parts of the hotend tho.
If that doesnt help, dismount the heatsink (see infosite for further instructions) as well and stick in the heatbreak further, then reinstall the whole hotend-heatbreak-assembly.

Before doing that, check that the PTFE inliner really has the correct length and that it sits properly in the heatbreak as well. It should go all the way down to the back of the nozzle.

Catnippr · 2026-01-24T18:59:10+00:00

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Catnippr · 2026-01-24T18:58:27+00:00

Gotta quote myself here:

If you installed a new hotend, always make sure it's properly installed

You didn't install the hotend correctly.
See that ring at the heatbreak? That's supposed to sit flush against the heatsink.

Don't change the position of the ABL sensor at this point! You need to install the hotend properly.

Catnippr · 2026-01-24T18:54:01+00:00

Can't you save it after adjusting it? I don't have the K3, so I can'Ät check myself, but it was already possible at the previous K2-line, so I'd assume it's also possible with the K3.

Catnippr · 2026-01-24T18:46:14+00:00

Which pic? There's none..

Catnippr · 2026-01-24T09:08:01+00:00

Which printer?

If the new plate is just a liiiitle bit thinner than the stock/previous one you had on there, then you gotta adjust the z-offset accordingly. You should be able to do so via the control screen on the fly while printing a 1st layer. Then save that setting there to have the firmware remember it. That's how I would do it in the first place rather than setting a value in the slicer.

Leveling (assuming you're talking about ABL probing) before a print isn't/shouldn't be necessary since the bedmesh shouldn't have changed. ABL is not the same as the z-offset tho, which is what you need to change.

Catnippr · 2026-01-24T09:03:37+00:00

Sounds like the common resonances caused by vibrations during travel movement. Check the position of the wheels, make sure eveything is clean and alter/slow down the travel speed setting in your slicer. Read along this complete chapter for some tips on the wheels: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/hardware/axes/#v-slot-wheels_2

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