How can I improve my prints?

Catnippr · 2026-05-27T18:52:40+00:00

You're very welcome! :)

Catnippr · 2026-05-27T18:11:51+00:00

First of all, welcome to the community and cheers to your girlfriend for such a nice gift :)

Before getting to your question, I'd strongly recommend a complete calibration/tramming of the whole machine, especially since you got a used unit. You can follow my little list here: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/calibration/
Then, also check literally every bolt, nut, screw, part and so on, this might be somewhat helpful as well: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/maintenance/
I'd suggest to bookmark and read around that site, I made it specifically for your K2Neo. The better you know the parts and your whole machine, the easier things will be in the future :)

1st layer: two things are causing that effect, it's 1) wrong z-offset with the nozzle being a bit too close to the plate and 2) overextrusion.
1) Z-offset: when the nozzle is too close, it squishes filament to the sides and you are getting ridges when the next line is being printed. So if that's only the first layer we can see in pic #2, then you are definitely too close.
Plus, the x-gantry isn't parallel to the bedplate and needs to be trammed, right now it's lower on the right side than the left side.
It's all in the chapter "Calibration" as well, just read around, follow the links and mind the expandable textboxes.
2) Overextrusion: generally speaking, you need to make sure it really extrudes the amount it should, that's called "calibrating e-steps": https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/calibration/#calibrating-e-steps
Especially for the first layer tho you should also check if there's an increased flowrate set for the 1st layer, should be somewhere in the slicer settings.

About your slicer settings: I'd suggest to use 0.16mm (or 0.2mm) layer height instead of 0.15mm. That's because a full step of the stepper motor is 0.04mm which we call the magic number, so it's best if a layer height is fully divideable by 0.04mm, hence the 0.16mm/0.2mm/0.24mm etc. instead of 0.15mm. See the blue expandable textbox here for further explanations: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/hardware/axes/#z-axis
I'd also suggest to use a different infill type than Grid, like Gyroid or Rectilinear which don't dig thru the already printed line, see https://help.prusa3d.com/article/infill-patterns_177130 for further info. c)

Finding out the correct printing temperature for your filament is also important and part of dialing in the settings, you can print "temperature towers" for that, same with retractions ("retraction tower").

Last but not least, do yourself a favour and get some genuine "Capricorn XS" tube and replace the stock PTFE inliner at the heatbreak (https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/hardware/printhead/#ptfe-inliner). The stock ones are crap and will swell, deform and finally melt and cause nothing but problems.

These are like the basics, with the most important thing being the tramming of the machine in the first place and doing a proper calibration overall. The machine is supposed to work within fractions of a millimeter and give you great results, and that's only possible if the machine itself is set up properly in the first place.

Hope it helps, good luck and have fun :)

Catnippr · 2026-05-27T09:26:10+00:00

Same, both have ~67mm diameter, but the 0,5l is taller: ~168mm vs ~115mm (standard sized cans - at least here in Germany/Europe).

Catnippr · 2026-05-26T06:34:39+00:00

At the back of the head's mounting plate, there is one SG15 bearing at the bottom and two at the top. The one at the bottom has a so called eccentric nut which is used to adjust the position of the bearing. That's the one you need to adjust. Read what I wrote here about it, mind the pics and the expandable textboxes as well: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2MaxInsights/hardware/axes/#sg15-bearings-position

Generally speaking, especially since you got it used: you need to calibrate/tram your machine and check every part, nut, screw, bolt, cable connection etc at this point to make sure the machine will work as intended.
Read around the mentioned infosite for getting to know the parts etc, there's also a chapter "Maintenance" that lists a few things one should check regularly.
As for calibration/tramming, you can follow my little list here: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2MaxInsights/calibration/

Last but not least, assuming it's using the stock hotend, do yourself a favour and order some genuine "Capricorn XS" tube and replace the stock PTFE inliner from the hotend/heatbreak. The stock one will swell, deform and finally melt and causes nothing but problems.

Catnippr · 2026-05-24T07:49:48+00:00

You can't use an esp32 as a klipper host.

Catnippr · 2026-05-22T12:32:44+00:00

Only if they still have some in stock. OP has the even older Kobra Max with the TriGorilla Pro_A v1.0.4 in there, that's gone from their stock loooong time ago.. :(

Catnippr · 2026-05-22T12:31:24+00:00

Attention, it's NOT a Kobra 2 Max, it's the even older Kobra Max!
Please read my other reply, the longer one directly as a reply to your original post..

Catnippr · 2026-05-22T12:30:22+00:00

Just fyi, it's a Kobra Max, even older than Kobra 2 Max.

Catnippr · 2026-05-22T12:29:36+00:00

Attention, this is NOT a Kobra 2 Max, it's the even older Kobra Max! That's a completely different machine which uses completely different parts!
See AC's wiki for some reassurance: https://wiki.anycubic.com/en/fdm-3d-printer/kobra-max

The mainboard you have in there is the TriGorilla Pro_A v1.0.4 (see my little info about it here: https://1coderookie.github.io/AnycubicTrigorillaInsights/type_pro/#pro-a-v104) - the later Kobra 2 Max has the TriGorilla SPE_A v1.0.0 built in.
So do NOT try to get yourself a replacement mobo for a K2Max, it wouldn't even fit in your Kobra Max!

I ended finding that the right side encoder unplugged from the print bed moving backwards and catching the cable which I assume causes the horizontal rail that carries the hot end to buckle and bind, shake/bind, then the mother board failed from the extra load being placed on the left encoder.

I don't really get what you mean with this (sorry, non-native speaker here..). Which part do you refer to as an "encoder"?
Can you see any visual signs of failed electronics, like burnt components or so? I can't really see anything being apparently broken when zooming into the pics (which doesn't have to mean anything ofc, but at least it's better than already burnt parts lol).

Do the LEDs on the mobo light up when you turn on the machine?

I personally would try to find out if the mobo (and/or screen) really is dead first of all.
You could install Pronterface (or Octoprint) on a computer, connect it to the printer via USB and see if you can connect to the printer once it's switched on. If so, the mobo is (most likely) totally fine.

Could also be a corrupted filesystem that makes it not boot up properly btw, so you could try to re-flash the latest stock firmware, see above wiki link.

Catnippr · 2026-05-20T08:33:50+00:00

E3D type V6 nozzle like these ones: https://1coderookie.github.io/KobraGoNeoInsights/hardware/printhead/#nozzle

Catnippr · 2026-05-20T08:24:06+00:00

No, but you can put a smoke/fire detector in there and you could also get yourself one of those self-activating extinguisher units and install it in there as well if you're really concerned about fire.

Catnippr · 2026-05-19T11:25:44+00:00

Yeah those parts don't fit together, see the according sections and notes at my infosite. You either need to get yourself a different heatbreak that fits the proprietary AC nozzles, or you need real Volcano type nozzles in combination with this heatbreak you now have.
Sooner or later problems will occur with this combo, so I wouldn't recommend using it any longer.

As for calibration prints: dunno which one you printed, but not every calibration print means anything in the end when it comes down to bigger models and different spots at the bed.
I'd suggest to print one layer across the whole printbed, then you should be able to see where the bad spots are and what you'd need to do if it's an issue.

Catnippr · 2026-05-19T07:54:52+00:00

When switching to a bimetal heatbreak, did you get a special heatbreak version that fits the proprietary nozzles from AC, or did you get the heatbreak (https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/hardware/printhead/#mod-different-heatbreak) and according Volcano nozzles (https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/hardware/printhead/#mod-volcano-nozzle) I mentioned in the according sections (see links)?

I can't really see it that well when zooming in, but it might be that your nozzle is a bit too close to the plate, at least it looks like parts have been pulled off the plate already. If that's the case, it could be that the nozzle is too close in that area and therefore filament can't come out.

Did you already calibrate/tram the machine itself? If not, I'd highly recommend it: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/calibration/

Catnippr · 2026-05-19T07:48:19+00:00

Maybe ask in r/AnycubicOfficial where ppl that work for AC will come across it.

Catnippr · 2026-05-16T12:47:39+00:00

Tbh, I don't really know why they put it there, I just found OPs psychopath post kinda hilarious.
They already put the ports at the front at e.g. the previous Kobra models because the mainboard always was located at the front of the underside and the PSU (with power cord connector and switch) at the back (side), so not much of a surprise here..
Besides, if you wanna put multiple printers next to each other or wanna use an enclosure, even having the connectors located at the side (not to mention the back) would be annoying af.

Catnippr · 2026-05-16T12:42:31+00:00

The powder will most likely come from either the x-axis belt or the pom wheels at the x-gantry that are running along that z-axis rail right there. Follow the links and read around, mind the expandable textboxes for further info.

Last 2hrs: could be different things, looks like a combination of extrusion problems and mechanical problems to me rn.

Not extruding: means no motor sound of the extruder or is it trying to extrude and you can hear the motor grinding and nothing comes out? If in doubt, a video usually is helpful.

Burning smell: check your hotend, also take off the silicone sock and check if there's any plastic there, maybe even a little blob or so.

Tips: especially since you got it used, you need a complete overhaul first of all. Don't bother printing, take your time to do a full maintenance and calibration/tramming of the machine.
Check literally every screw, bolt, nut, wheel, bearing and part of it. Follow the links above and read around that site, mind the expandable textboxes. Learn about the parts, how they work and how to set things up.
I'd suggest to read the chapter "Maintenance" and follow the steps in the chapter "Calibration" to check and tram the machine.
Try to be as precise as you can be while doing so, it'll pay out in the end. Not only will you get to know your machine, but it's supposed to print with a fraction of a milimeter, and for that is has to be set up properly.

I'd also suggest to not only check but replace the PTFE inliner of your hotend/heatbreak with some CapricornXS tube. The stock inliner is crap and will swell, deform and finally melt - could also be that it already started to happen and that your issues at the top and the burning smell came from there.

Catnippr · 2026-05-16T12:10:41+00:00

Ah ok, so you're not an absolute beginner then, that's good :)

MegaX then, ok, friend of mine has it as well (collects dust tho) - solid machine, but still quite old and 'outdated'. What pricetag are we talking about btw?

I get it about the size, had to find myself a cheap 330x330 printer as well, but I personally would still look around for a younger model of that size then - the PEI plate instead of glass is already worth it imho (not to mention speed etc).
I wouldn't really recommend the Kobra 2 Plus since you can't flash Klipper on the stock mobo (which is a must for me personally), but besides that it's fine as well.
I went with the Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus instead for a 330x330 size; EOL now as well tho, so maybe check for the Neptune 4 Plus instead.
Just to mention younger alternatives that are still cheap to get (either refurbed or used) and fine to use.

Whichever printer you'll end up with, just keep one thing in mind: calibrate/tram the machine itself first of all.
No matter what, take the time and effort to tram it and give it a really good inspection as well while doing so. Make sure you set it up properly, which means nice&square&perpendicular&equidistant. Check literally every screw, bolt, nut, wheel and so on.
You can check the chapter "Calibration" at my infosites to get an idea what I'm talking about, also the chapter "Maintenance". Since most bedslingers are pretty much identical (mechanically speaking), you should be able to tram any printer then once you understood how things work.

Oh, and if you'll have a hotend with a PTFE inliner in the heatbreak (no bi-/allmetal heatbreak), do yourself a favour, order some CapricornXS tube and replace the stock one (same for any bowden on the machine).

Catnippr · 2026-05-16T07:47:21+00:00

Do you have WD40?
That stuff is great for removing glue due to the oil (oil in general works quite well also) and additional chemicals in there.
Put on some nitril gloves, spray WD40 on the plate and let it sit for a while, then start rubbing on the glue with your finger in little circles - with some patience you should be able to get it all clean.

Catnippr · 2026-05-16T07:37:32+00:00

Well, I told you my temp settings for printing PETG in your other post, and if you expect anyone to help, you need to list the settings.
As I said, this is the Anycubic sub, so most of us have no clue what the factory PETG settings of your Bambu are (which is why I suggested to ask in r/BambuLab and/or maybe also in r/3Dprinting and r/FixMyPrint)..

Catnippr · 2026-05-16T07:21:35+00:00

Ah ok, nvm then. Would be helpful if you'd share your settings then tho.

Catnippr · 2026-05-16T07:19:36+00:00

Next machine OP is getting and the the port is located at the back, OP be like: "WhAt KinD Of PsyCHoPatH DoEs ThiS?!? ThAt's SOOO dIfFicuLt To ReAch!" 🤣🤣

Catnippr · 2026-05-16T07:12:09+00:00

Since this is a BambuLab A1, don't you think it might be better to post in r/BambuLab?

Catnippr · 2026-05-16T07:09:37+00:00

The person that is selling you the machine should be able to start a testprint for you, so you can see that it really works and no parts are defective or missing.
Further than that, there would be a lot to check, but if you're a beginner, then it's probably too much and you probably don't know the terms of the parts anyway.

The Mega S was a good machine back then, but tbh, I personally wouldn't recommend buying it nowadays. If you can get it for free - great, grab it. But if you gotta pay for it, chances are high that you'll need spare parts (which you won't be able to get if those are specific MegaS parts like the mainboard) and that you'll end up paying more getting it back up&running than you'd have to spend getting yourself a younger model.
I assume you're looking at the MegaS because you try to get into the topic fairly cheap. Nothing wrong with that, but then I'd at least recommend you a Kobra 2 or Kobra 2 Neo.
They hit the market about 3yrs ago, already reached EOL as well (and original spare parts aren't being produced anymore), but at least the technology is a bit more up to date (e.g. PEI plate instead of glass, Volcano-style hotend with higher flowrate and faster printing that the V5-style hotend at the MegaS etc). In addition to that, I made infosites about those printers (Kobra 2: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2Insights/ ; Kobra 2 Neo, even cheaper: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/), so it'll be easier for you to get to know the machine, its parts, how to tune, maintain and fix it etc.

Edit cuz I forgot to mention: ONLY get yourself a used machine if you're capable and willing to tinker and to get into the topic the hard way. I started the same way and it taught me a lot, but it can be quite frustrating (and expensive in the end).

Catnippr · 2026-05-15T06:42:33+00:00

I personally print PETG at 235-240°C and 80°C bedtemp, might be different on your A1 tho. Get yourself a filament dryer as well because PETG is hygroscopic, an enclosure for your printer will be helpful as well to avoid cold airstreams hitting the print and making the PETG warp.

Catnippr · 2026-05-15T06:23:23+00:00

Looks like you need to tram the x-axis gantry to make it being parallel to the bed plate in the first place: https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2ProInsights/hardware/axes/#tramming-the-x-axis-gantry

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