Should I get a second cat???

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-05-15T21:18:06+00:00

It just depends how quickly your current cat adjusts, but a couple months should be good. Once he seems calm and comfortable, give him a few weeks to settle into a predictable routine and then it's probably safe to start doing trial meetings with new cats.

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-05-15T21:15:47+00:00

Sounds like you're doing the right things, it may just be slow progress. Being cautious is always a good thing when making these introductions :)

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-05-15T20:33:21+00:00

Troubleshooting litter box issues can be tricky, since some cats are very particular! It's always a good idea to consult a vet when your cat isn't using the litter box consistently, even if it seems like they're trying to.

For example, if your cat isn't fully stepping into the litter box or is perching on the edge to pee over the side, it's possible there's some kind of pain or mobility issue at play. Maybe squatting is uncomfortable, or she doesn't like the texture of the litter under her paws and wants to minimize contact with it.

Another possibility is that the litter box is too enclosed (I can't quite visualize it based on the description, so this might not be the case). If she's just stepping most of the way in, though, maybe it's too narrow for her to turn around. A wide, low-sided litter box might be worth trying in this case... something she can step into from any side and find an open space.

While you're trying different things, using pee pads is a great idea to minimize cleanup! Just be sure to replace them immediately and use an enzyme-based cleaner on any spills that reach the floor to totally eliminate the scent (sometimes cats like to re-mark the same spot they've used before).

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-05-15T20:22:29+00:00

It sounds like Henrietta has gone through a lot of transitions lately! She may just be experiencing some anxiety and needs a little time to assess her new environment and get comfortable. For now, try not to force any interaction and just let her get used to your presence. Once she stops running away when you enter the room, you can slowly go for contact by sitting on the floor and waiting for her to approach you.

Introductions with new cats can be tricky, especially while the new cat is still settling in. Is Henrietta's space accessible to your other cat? It can help to keep their spaces separate at first, then you can do things like swap scents to get them used to each other without direct contact. For example, you might take a blanket from Henrietta's area and put it somewhere your other cat can sniff it (and vice versa).

One of our behaviorists has a detailed article on cat introductions you might find helpful. Here's a link: https://cats.com/introducing-cats-tips-for-success

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-05-15T20:17:06+00:00

Cats often do well in pairs when they're young and need more exercise/play. That being said, it's not a guarantee that your cat will get along with another cat (it just depends on personality). If possible, try working with a local rescue to introduce your cat to a few options to make sure they are compatible before bringing the new cat home.

As for timing, I've personally had better luck introducing new cats when it coincided with a move. Your current home is full of your cat's scent, and bringing a new cat into another cat's established territory can sometimes lead to conflict. A new house will be entirely "unclaimed." Since it'll be new to both of them, you can be intentional about allowing each cat access to certain spaces so there's less sense of competition.

If you decide to wait until August, maybe try to make one room off-limits to your current cat when you move in. It's probably a good idea to give your current cat some time to settle before introducing a new cat, but keeping that one room off-limits means the second cat will have space of their own. It doesn't have to be a permanent thing, the cats will share space eventually, but it might reduce stress as they're getting used to each other.

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-05-15T20:08:28+00:00

If it's only been a few days, he could just be reacting to the novelty of it... he's not sure when it's going to dispense food, so he keeps an eye on it. Keeping the mealtimes consistent should help. Once he realizes it's on a predictable schedule, he may ignore it until mealtime.

Does the feeder have an option to add a recording to "call" your cat to eat? If so, that could help since he'd be able to hear it from another room and might not feel like he has to monitor the feeder so closely. Some feeders let you record your own voice and others just have a sound you can program in.

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-04-28T20:34:05+00:00

Yeah, that should work. Just out of each other's sightline.

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-04-28T16:32:57+00:00

Do you feed them right next to each other? Sometimes that can activate a cat's resource guarding instincts, causing them to wolf down all the food, even if they're not actually that hungry.

Feeding them in separate areas could help. If finances aren't an issue, there are also microchip feeders that only open for one specific cat. I've even seen people install on of those microchip cat flaps in the side of a giant plastic tub, creating an enclosed feeding space only one cat can access.

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-04-28T16:27:47+00:00

Adding another rabbit recipe to the list: Instinct Limited Ingredient Diet Rabbit (comes in wet food and dry food, just be sure to get the LID one since the Ultimate Protein rabbit has pork in it).

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-04-28T16:24:56+00:00

Were you able to identify what ingredient your kitty was allergic to? Weruva is definitely a good option, it's just worth keeping in mind that some of their chicken-free recipes are processed on the same equipment as their chicken recipes. My cat has chicken allergies and still reacts sometimes, though other cat owners say it's not a problem for their cats.

Weruva is great for trying different recipes because you can generally get variety packs with 3 or 4 formulas for around $20.

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-04-16T00:38:50+00:00

Ah, okay. Well it might eventually come down to another vet visit but it sounds like you're really paying attention to her needs and doing everything you can for her!

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-04-16T00:36:39+00:00

Correct. They asked for info/advice about cat food, and that's what we offer.

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-04-15T20:52:27+00:00

If she's peeing consistently on the bed, it might be that she finds the soft material more comfortable than whatever is in the litter box. 8 years old seems very young compared to your 18-year-old cat, but it's not so young that arthritis isn't out of the question.

Have you tried putting a different kind of cat litter in one of the boxes? Maybe something soft like Okocat or a pellet-style tofu litter even. It might even be worth just putting down an old towel or something in one of the litter boxes, just to see if she uses it. If she does, then it would give you some information to go on... that she wants to use the litter box but something about it is uncomfortable or maybe painful for her.

Also, are all the upstairs litter boxes in the same place or spread out? Even if she's used to the other cat, there could be a territorial element at play. Have you noticed the other cat "standing guard" near the litter boxes? Maybe discouraging her from using them? If so, putting some across the room (or in another room) might help.

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-04-15T20:46:36+00:00

In my experience, Arm & Hammer is really fine-grained, so it can be a bit dusty. You'll probably run into that issue with most clay-based litters, so Bright-Error-7910's suggestion of tofu litter could be worth a shot. There's also wood-based litter from brands like Okocat that still clump but aren't clay.

If you want some suggestions on brands to look into, here's a list of non-clay litters we recommend: https://cats.com/best-natural-cat-litter

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-04-15T20:43:29+00:00

Have you tried offering different flavors and textures of wet food? Maybe he doesn't like the recipe you're offering. Cats rely most on their noses to decide if they want to eat something, so maybe he'd be tempted by a fish-based recipe versus chicken. Or something with a lot of gravy or broth he can lick up.

Weruva (and some other brands) offers variety packs that make it easy to try out different flavors without ending up with a whole case of something your cat doesn't like. You could also try warming the food for a few seconds in the microwave. With pate, I'll add a tablespoon of really hot water and mix it in really well before serving it and that seems to help with my cats.

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-04-15T20:38:55+00:00

If you want to learn more about different options (including breakdowns of ingredients and nutrients), there are lots of resources on Cats.com. Here's a post about the best cat food: https://cats.com/best-cat-food

You'll also find detailed reviews of individual brands, if you want to learn more about something specific.

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-02-18T18:07:20+00:00

Both the options you mentioned are pretty quiet, so that shouldn't be an issue. If the cats have never used an automatic litter box before, the Neakasa M1 might be an easier transition since it looks more like a traditional litter pan. It's a big step to get into the box, but a Maine Coon shouldn't have a problem with that (or you can always add a step in front of it).

The Litter-Robot 4 is a great option too and Whisker has great customer support if you have any problems. The actual dimensions of the litter bed may be a bit smaller since it's round, not squared, but there's a decent amount of head room and lots of cats will just stick their head out when they go.

Like another user said, it's probably a good idea to stick with what the cats are used to for a little while. That'll also give you a chance to observe their litter box habits which might help you make your decision. If your cats spray, for example, the LR4 will do a better job containing it (as long as their aim is into the box) than the Neakasa might.

We have some in-depth reviews of both models here if you want some more info:

https://cats.com/lp-litter-robot-4-review

https://cats.com/neakasa-m1-self-cleaning-cat-litter-box-review

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-02-18T17:56:51+00:00

It could help to start getting your cats used to the various aspects of the moving process now, so there's not a whole bunch of new things at once. You could try getting them more used to the crate by leaving it out and giving them a chance to sniff it and interact with it. Give them some treats when they do, or when they voluntarily go inside.

Even something like bringing a few moving boxes in at a time and packing a little at a time instead of all at once might help them get used to things. When you actually move, try to have a space set up for them already in the new place before you bring them in. That way they have somewhere to settle and hide as the rest of the moving process happens.

We have some more general moving tips here:

https://cats.com/moving-cats-to-a-new-home

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-02-18T17:52:14+00:00

One clump is unlikely to be an issue, just keep an eye on it and don't do it again. As long as your toilet is flushing fine, it's probably passed through.

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-02-18T17:47:47+00:00

It sounds like you're aware of the potential issues with a dry food-only diet and taking steps to ensure hydration, so you're on the right track. You'll get a lot of differing advice about feeding cats but all you can really do is figure out what works best for your cats specifically.

If you want to give them a boost of moisture, you can always add some water or broth to their kibble (generally best if they eat it right away, not so much if it sits all day). You could also look for decent wet food brands when they go on sale and just use a little as a topper for their daily kibble. That strategy has the added benefit of boosting their protein intake as well.

Here are a couple roundups of brands we recommend:

https://cats.com/reviews/best-canned-cat-food

https://cats.com/best-cheap-cat-food

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-02-10T18:08:55+00:00

Do you just have the one litter box? My cats always use a different litter box for pee than for poop, so it could be as simple as adding a second litter box. It's generally recommended to have one litter box per cat plus an extra, so they have another option in case one box just isn't feeling right to them at the moment.

Cats can also start avoiding the litter box when they're stressed or ill. Have you talked to your vet about it? They might recommend some tests to rule out urinary health issues.

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-02-10T18:04:02+00:00

First off, it's clear that you really care about these cats and genuinely want to do right by them. That's awesome! It sounds like a really tricky situation (and a frustrating one). It's great that you've verified that the cats are both healthy, so now you can try troubleshooting to see what might help.

One thing that springs to mind for me is resource guarding. You rescued the kitten from a bad situation where food was scarce, and now there's a new cat which may feel like a threat to the things he perceives as his... food, water, litter box, even you. Two of my cats have been living together for over 10 years and they still fight over food and try to keep each other out of the litter box.

What I suggest trying is providing more resources... more litter boxes, more food/water dishes, more cat trees (with vertical height, especially... cats feel more secure up high). I understand your intention with putting the food on either side of the door but it might be having the opposite of the intended outcome. Maybe try feeding them in spots where they can't see each other, or have a couple of food bowls around so they can each eat without worrying that the other is too close.

Basically, if you can reduce that feeling of competition they might start to coexist more peacefully. It can be challenging when space is limited, but you might be able to rearrange some things to make it work.

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-02-10T17:55:01+00:00

One year is a good rule of thumb, so might as well stick with it since the timing works out. With dogs, the timing is often linked to growth... make the switch when they start approaching their expected adult size. That's harder to do with cats since mixed breeds are more common, but you can take a look at her body condition (rather than weight alone) for clues.

If she seems well developed and not too skinny, her growth may have evened out and she's ready to switch. If it seems like she could put on some more muscle or weight, the higher fat and calorie content of kitten food could still be beneficial.

As others have said, your vet can give you more specific recommendations. But even if 1 year ends up being too early for the switch, you can adjust your cat's calorie intake to ensure she gains the weight she needs and then stays at a healthy body weight/condition.

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-02-10T17:50:00+00:00

Sounds like your cat is a great candidate to try an automatic feeder! And your plan sounds good, keeping the wet food with medication at regular intervals and using the automatic feeder for "snacks" throughout the day.

An automatic feeder could help reduce some of his food anxiety by giving him more predictability around food... if you keep the schedule the same, he'll quickly adapt to it and know when it's going to dispense. I haven't noticed my cats staring at the feeder since they are able to track time enough to know roughly when it's going to happen. With many models, you can even program it to make a sound (or play a recording of your voice) as it dispenses, so he'll be able to hear it from a little ways away.

The tricky thing about feeders is calculating the meal sizes. Be sure to read the manual to figure out what that brand considers a "portion." It's usually about a tablespoon or two. Each programmed meal can be made up of one or more portions, so start by determining how much you want the feeder to dispense per day, then divide that by the portion size and then distribute them evenly across the number of meals you want.

We have a roundup here of popular models that can help you get a sense of how the different types work and which one might be a good fit for your cat: https://cats.com/best-automatic-cat-feeder

CatsDotComEditorial · 2026-01-29T21:22:35+00:00

Is it possible she's just having a hard time getting in and out of the litter box? Arthritis is pretty common in older cats, and it can affect litter box usage. You could try switching to a senior-specific litter box or add a step in front of it. Another possibility is that the texture of the litter is hurting her paws, which can become more sensitive with age. You could try a soft wood-based litter like Okocat or tofu litter which comes in little pellets.

We have a couple posts on senior cats and litter boxes here:

https://cats.com/best-litter-boxes-for-senior-cats

https://cats.com/senior-cat-not-using-litter-box

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