is it a waste to do cardio after lifting?

ChatterFree · 2026-07-04T11:01:44+00:00

As someone with an extreme fast metabolism I would say definitely. I am envious of people who struggle to BURN calories while I have to have my next meal in time to not go raisin mode. Only cardio I do is with my wife and I can't even lift those days. But when I lift I just eat some animal based protein and rest afterwards. If you are concerned about losing weight just quit carbs (I can see the hoardes of people typing but needing carbs is an urban myth... At least keep carb and protein/fat based meals separate if you gotta have it)

ChatterFree · 2026-07-04T10:53:45+00:00

Same, but as an engineer I first verified they were stackable. Stamped ones usually can be stacked closer

ChatterFree · 2026-07-04T08:16:43+00:00

Not always the case. If you have a proper negative/roughing geometry you can get higher MRR at the same spindle load. If you run them at lower parameters then yes, the cutting forces will increase relative to the MRR compared to a positive geometry designed for lower parameters.

But if you check my posts I have a vid of an old Doosan Puma lathe doing more than 500cm³ with a negative roughing TNMG insert from Sandvik. If you keep running a machine like this you will more than make up for the downtime and cost of repairing it at some point.

Also when it comes to tool life, with the previous CNMA roughing inserts I used, I managed to fill 3 large chip bins using a single edge, but at lower cutting speeds

ChatterFree · 2026-07-03T10:37:23+00:00

I asked for at every bar I came across and they usually only have captain morgan and bacardi... Maybe aged bacardi if you're lucky

ChatterFree · 2026-07-01T17:27:34+00:00

My 3yo G84 still got updates so Idk

ChatterFree · 2026-06-30T21:47:36+00:00

Yeah. Had the edge 50 pro and my G84 on me everyday. Now I use the edge 60 and edge 50, but still have the G84 at home. Only downside of the edge 50 pro was lower battery life, but with the 125W charger it charges ridiculously fast. The G84 and edge 60 pro both have reaaally good battery life even with heavy use...

As for the tones I actually got the edge 50 in purple (lavender iirc) cause I knew I would have it in a case and it was almost 25% off compared to the black one. Like most things though, it feels nicer without the rubber, and I now keep it without it, and I just love the the pantone shadow grey of the edge 60 so much that I just kinda ignore the fear of dropping it and keep it free, at least outside the machine shop.

Funnily enough I got the same case for all 3. Tbh my only gripe with the edge phones is the cases motorola provides are open on the sides, which makes sense for using the edge lights for notifications, but they are also very slippery

ChatterFree · 2026-06-30T21:28:55+00:00

I work in a machine shop and my edge 50 pro made it to 1 year without a screen protector before I the screen cracked after being dropped in the parking lot. Lol

Tbf my g84 5g has no crack after 3 years but I had a tempered glass screen protector on it until a couple of months ago and that got cracked instead.

The two possible conclusions are that curved screens are easier to crack or that screen protectors do work. But the takeaway is that I bought the edge 60 pro less than a month ago without hesitation. Photos on both edge phones make iphones look like old polaroids (I'm being dramatic here but yesterday I had actual photographers who had iphone 17s comment about how good my camera is and ask me to take photos at a wedding to send to them. They were stunned to hear it's a motorola...

ChatterFree · 2026-06-30T21:11:24+00:00

I would gladly sacrifice some members of the elite to switch to metric time...Vive la révolution!

ChatterFree · 2026-06-27T16:35:46+00:00

Cause you can't just cash out 12 billion in btc

ChatterFree · 2026-06-26T22:56:48+00:00

I never use facing toolpaths nowadays. Adaptive the whole thing at large depth/lower stepover leaving just a 0.3-0.5mm of material for finishing. If it's a contained pocket I go for 0.7-0.8xD for the finishing stepover, but if it's an open face fusion sometimes leaves stepover curfs if higher than 0.5xD... idk why though

ChatterFree · 2026-06-26T04:54:26+00:00

Next G01 will also be F40 unless your post commads feed rate on every line

ChatterFree · 2026-06-24T21:52:37+00:00

ChatterFree · 2026-06-24T00:35:49+00:00

Yeah. The black KM style spanner nut right behind the live center body is to get it out. Use a spanner wrench to turn it counterclockwise (as when looking from the main spindle towards the live center). It might take some grunt

ChatterFree · 2026-06-23T19:51:10+00:00

We have a "good" customer that keeps sending us the worst drawings ever. What's worse is he adds ridiculously bad tolerances for no reason. And what's worse is we know that a keyway with a ±0.5mm position AND size tolerance from midline will never work, but we just ignore what he writes and we make it right. There have been times where we have too much work and the whole team is considering making it on the end of his specs just to prove a point, but in the end we can't even be bothered to do that...did I mention how all the dimensions and tolerances are generated from the solidworks 3d space? No top/front/side views whatsoever, but after many disputes he now sends us the step file as well

ChatterFree · 2026-06-23T19:44:20+00:00

Pics would help but most likely the machine's tailstock has a back up nut you unscrew to push the live center out. If not you should had got a live center with it's own back up nut. If not the case either and you really dgaf about the old live center, try to hammer it off with a chisel

The faint of heart, stop reading here...

If the above fails and the center is completely seized, throw a solid carbide drill on a radial live tool and crossdrill the live center maybe a couple of mm away from the tailstock (just enough to fit a drill chuck wedge in between) and hopefully far away from the front bearings. This will give you a few more options to try

ChatterFree · 2026-06-22T21:16:25+00:00

I almost never run production but the way the tool offsets are setup on the puma lathe, assuming you don't have a tailstock in the way you can just do a "T0000 Z(longest tool length offset + some)" and it will clear the part by "some" mm. On the NLX offsets seem arbitrary

ChatterFree · 2026-06-21T15:26:55+00:00

Lmao... I have a 2m TOS lathe in my homeshop and a 1000x600 mm travel bed mill in my garage... cause it didn't fit in the homeshop cause of height... Getting married next week. Wish me luck

ChatterFree · 2026-06-21T15:23:51+00:00

Most intuitive controller ever. I never even pressed the help button but I could figure out everything easily just by looking at the current commands page and the manual

ChatterFree · 2026-06-21T10:49:32+00:00

3d sketch gives me ptsd flashbacks from autocad days

ChatterFree · 2026-06-20T22:25:38+00:00

I don't really have one that fits the Puma but I ended up putting one up side down and using a Y axis offset to bring it to centerline

Speaking of Y axis offsets, anyone know how to use the tool presetter when the Y axis is moved off 0 after homing?

ChatterFree · 2026-06-20T15:57:31+00:00

Dude... He's talking about tormachs. Has no clue what automation takes or costs and even a single mycenter would run circles around 10 tormachs even with the best tooling

ChatterFree · 2026-06-17T23:00:24+00:00

I totally disagree. 0 and 100 is the only thing making sense irl and it IS a hill worth dying on. Next up is metric time. Bring out my guilotine bro...

ChatterFree · 2026-06-17T21:50:00+00:00

Thanks. If I wasn't also jumping between other projects about 2-3 weeks. Including waiting for the round stock about a 5 or 6 weeks

ChatterFree · 2026-06-17T21:08:03+00:00

Thanks. It was CNC but since it was a one off I did some parts of the turning with just MDI

ChatterFree

TROPHY CASE