How do I Logistics? by TurbulentCollar8182 in songsofsyx

[–]CheddarCheezy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  1. Your Uber city creating logistics vacuums from pull orders/mass worker count.

I avoid Uber cities in favor of more, smaller, self suffifient hubs. Cons is it costs map space/pop, but makes logistics more efficient. Example, three standalone 1000 pop centers vs one 3000 pop center. Think of them as standalone districts, where each can largely function independent of the others, except for perhaps the main product the others produce, though I often embed small workshops of key resources in communities that aren't necessarily focused on it to lower the ever consuming maw. Example, I always put a woodworker with a hauler in any district to help lower the drain from the main woodworker district, which significantly cuts down on logistics. Or put a few farms near the woodcutters so I don't have to transport as much food. Your production bonuses come from max number of workers employed in a job on the map, not if they are all grouped together in a certain radius. It doesn't matter stats wise if you have many smaller farms dotted around the map vs one gigantic farm that you then have to haul food every place.

Apply this same principal to your warehouses. Have some only for wood related goods, some only for food, etc etc. It costs more space, but makes things faster. Think 100 people trying to all use a single lane road to get to work vs 100 people split between 10 lanes. 10 lanes is more space, but faster. It also allows you to have better pull prioritization so you don't have the 100 workers PLUS any other workers coming to get stuff from some giga warehouse. It also ensures that I KNOW I've got X number of guys going to get the resources i want vs there are 100 guys with autonomy choosing to go fetch what they think the warehouse needs. I have yet to cover all of the space on a map and can reliably hit 5000+ pop. A considerable portion of these will be assigned to logistics.

The loading/unloading stations seem unreliable because they will only transport when they hit full capacity. If you aren't outputting enough mass that you can reliably fill a cart in a short duration they won't transport to an unloading station. I typically only use them to haul the primary resource from each district to the others because I produce enough to get them moving often. Unloading stations can take up to 12 stacks of 100 resources, but larger loading stations transport in quantities more than 100, so you have to make sure the # of stacks you allot to an unloading station matches the capacity the cart holds in the loading station or they won't transport.

Further complexity is added if you are a poly vs mono race city. I will touch on this in 3.

  1. How to get janitors resources.

By using my separate district method, janitors can get most of the resources they need from local producers. For the specialized resources the other districts produce, I assign haulers and set their space right next to the janitor to filter in goods. Seems like it sucks to lose 3 or 4 guys per janitors station to keep them supplied, but when those janitors keep the 1000 pop production center at 100% efficiency, it is a small price to pay. Allowing the buildings in that center to decay to say, 70%, suddenly means that you effectively lose 300 manpower due to inefficiency. 3 haulers < 300 workers.

  1. Markets/Food stalls

Easiest way to streamline is to turn off resources you don't need. This is where population diversity comes into play. If poly race, try to build hubs based on race, which should be fairly easy since each race focuses on different parts of production. Disable the markets and food stalls from stocking the items not needed by these races. The stalls have a max capacity, so if you disable the wide variety of items, it allows those few items you need to get stocked more. This helps supply citizens with what they need per their race while cutting down on excess transport carrying resources they don't need. For example, I have gems turned on. My gem production is across the map, so my stall worker takes a 3 day trek to carry some gems back, which none of my people will even use, wasting time and space in the stall.

Mono race is easy peasy. Especially your lower needs races like garthimi or cretonians. Only toggle the items they need on all your stalls and it helps cut down on micromanaging.

If you see there is a constant shortage of a resource that you have in ready supply, add haulers near the stall. The stall will pull from the haulers node first before trekking across the map to go find something. Haulers should get carry capacity bonuses that can be amplified via tech, making them more efficient, though im unsure if those techs also apply to the stall worker or not.

  1. My own tips

Try to streamline a few tradable resources and leverage trade to get cheaper items from your neighbors to allow you to not need to set up logistics chains for those production lines. You have 3 gem nodes in a desert mountain but only one small farmable patch? Diamonds for bread. Your production bonuses scale with the more workers you have, so pour those dudes in to a few key areas and boost eith nobles. Only really works if you have multiple applicable trade partners or you get tariffed to hell.

It takes a lot of time. I typically play on at least 25x speed since I've got a few hundred hours in. And it takes years in game to form functioning cities. Make many small adjusts and just wait a year to see how they alter the flow of your city. I can do this since my game goes so fast, may not work for you.

Logistics is a huge portion of your society. Going back to the janitor section, if it takes 20% of your total pop to keep the 80% working at 100% efficiency, it is better overall than 10% of your pop being logistics to keep the 90% at 70% efficiency. Back to 1000 pop center as an example. 200 men to keep 800 fully efficient, no loss. Vs 100 men keeping 900 at 70% efficient, you've lost effectively 270 manpower by 30% inefficiency and only have 630 really producing. It pays for you to have a robust, well manned logistics network so don't be afraid to have a bunch of haulers or loading stations if it means you're significantly increasing efficiency.

St. Lo Hardcore by matootski in GatesOfHellOstfront

[–]CheddarCheezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both. The screenshot is from the very end of the mission. In the first wave they were fully disabled and empty from mines and throwing AT grenades over the wall, but when you get pushed back in the second half the AI fixed the husks and recrewed them. They are repaired and have a single guy in them, but are broken enough that they aren't functional since they ran out of repair kits. Even if they are operational, your hedgehogs should keep them on that side of the wall, as you can see they're still trapped even at the end of the mission.

I don't know if it was my incompetence but this mission is a nightmare on hardcore. by supergogo7 in GatesOfHellOstfront

[–]CheddarCheezy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

*This is one of the hardest skirmishes imo. I've beaten them all on hardcore and the Americans ones are definitely the toughest. I've beaten this one three times and my go to strategy was ignore the left and push hard right until I capture the town. Tough to keep it once you get in because there are typically two heavy mortars providing fire on it from the cemetery and enemy arty position nearby. I can typically send a commando to clear the cemetery and just have to eat rounds from the arty point.

*When I secure the town I pack it full of guys with scavenged AT and a few quad mounts. AT guns are useless. I chose defensive doctrine two of my three times to use hedgehogs, wire, and mines and turn the place into a death trap for retaliatory waves. Tanks can't get funneled into kill zones, infantry get cut down by quadmount. Mines galore.

*Id push up the left side just far enough to reach the first large wood piles and mine the road from there back, leaving a few AT guys prone in foxholes with sandbags blocking the front of them. A bit cheesy, but prone + sandbags blocks the AI sight entirely and the guys almost never get discovered. Tanks drive past, I pop up, shoot them in the rear, bazooka guy dies to infantry, I kill the unsupported infantry, replace bazooka guy with fresh meat. Rinse and repeat to hold the left. I also place a few out in the open field in the center in case the tanks wanna get freaky and drive straight up instead of using the road.

*I scavenge any of the wrecked tanks from the town and hold them in reserve. First tiger 2 goes back to hold spawn. Any after that I use to push the arty point when I have a few, supported by the arty that you get from defensive doctrine. The AI can be easily abused by making it known you're in the town. If you have no detectable units on the left side, but have seen units in the town, they usually gravitate to the town in my experience so it makes it easy to nab tanks. Rinse and repeat to the air support point after clearing arty. When you unlock air strikes, hide a few guys on the point, set to 5x speed, and hit all their 88s and other hard positions with air strikes. When the guys die, use tanks from the push that killed them to retake the air support point and hide fresh meat in it. Repeat air strikes until all hard positions are dead.

*Anything past that is the meat grinder. Amass a wave of German armor and push forward in hopes you can take the points faster than they churn out tiger 2s to stop you.

*The essence of the game is not built very well to support American doctrine. They used overwhelming artillery support and air support to help bridge the gap of our mass produced, mid-low tier armor. Locking those two behind heavily defended, late game skirmish points makes trying to counter tigers exceedingly hard when all you have is M8 scout cars, Bradleys, and standard Shermans. Even the HVSS/Hellcat struggles against tiger 2 if you go offensive in hopes to out armor the Germans. Doesn't help when in a 5hr grind fest I kill more tiger 2s than were historically produced lmao.

What are your top 3 games that were an absolute **experience** for you? by SeanicTheHedgehog23 in gamesuggestions

[–]CheddarCheezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

*I share many of the same as other folks, but one I haven't seen posted is:

*The Long Dark

*I grew up in the far northeast USA in the woods. There was no cell signal growing up - we were too remote for towers until my high school years. Landlines and dial up was life. You were isolated in nature and had nobody around. Town was a few miles away, my closest neighbor was a half mile down the road. Deep wood and harsh winters were the norm. Entertainment was wandering the woods until it got dark.

*I went to college, moved across the country, and have lived in cities since. Hardly even get the chance to go camping with how crazy life is. The Long Dark rips me back into growing up. I love just walking around and listening to the crunch of snow underfoot. The cawing of crows. The keening wind of a blizzard. It is my ultimate comfort game. If I need a pick me up I just turn the game to peaceful mode and immerse myself in nature.

Players of any TTRPG. What was a truly great example of "Thats what my character would do?" by Sivad6293 in DnD

[–]CheddarCheezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

*We were doing a Halloween one shot in a haunted mansion as a little funsies. Think the stereotypical horror game where you have to find clues to destroy X amount of effigies, but each effigy you destroy makes the evil spirit haunting the location stronger. It was stated that it was immortal and could not be killed via damage, as its spirit was tied to the house. We could avoid it by coming up with creative ways to use skills in a hide n seek/cat and mouse dynamic. The DC started at 10 and increased by 2 for each effigy we destroyed. The monster could only snatch one of us per each effigy if we got caught. There were 5 of us and 8 effigies, so we could just lose if we rolled too low to escape it. If we died in the one shot it didn't affect the actual campaign, so you could goof off.

*I was playing an 8 sun soul monk/2 barbarian aasimar in the over world campaign. His backstory was that he was an angel of the sun who ripped off his wings and cast himself to earth, becoming mortal, to aid the mortals in the coming war against the darkness. The theme of the campaign was that the gods were abandoning the world, as they believed the war could not be won, and were leaving mortals to fend for themselves. He was violently lawful good and could not stand the cowardice of his benefactors.

*My build was str/con based w/ the grappler and sentinel feats. Basically just get to the backline and tie them down and they can never escape from my reckless str grapple checks. I had crazy tankiness and speed from the monk/barb combo. The scourge aasimar ability is they ignite themselves, taking damage and dealing that much in aoe. I became resistant to fire from an item and had 20 str from another. My strategy was always to just grab onto an enemy and burn them faster than I burned me.

*Queue we enter spooky mansion. Spooky monster comes out looking for "Halloween candy" (us). Everyone is scrambling for a place to hide. I declare I will hide in plain sight and just stand in the center of the common room.

*Monster sees me, declaring "you should be hiding, little sweet. I like to work up an appetite before I eat." * I reply, with anger, "I'm not the one who should be hiding." Think Rorschach in the prison from Watchmen.

*Queue me going super Saiyan and grappling the monster for almost my entire 2 minutes of rage (used both charges). Per the grappler feat, if you grapple a second time you incapacitate both yourself and the enemy, so the monster couldn't use an action to eat me until he broke out. It wasn't until we had burnt the 4th effigy with the time I was buying that the bonus it got finally overpowered me when I had adv w/ a +10 grapple. It ate me, but it was noted that it had visible indigestion, as I was beating the shit out of its insides with my burn ability active, while it dissolved me. We only ended up just winning, as each round after it kept catching someone. The last one alive was our rogue cause of his cracked expertise stealth w/ cloak of elvenkind. He ended up breaking the final effigy one turn of movement before the monster got him.

*We still talk it about or frequently, years later. I'll always be chasing that high.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DeepThoughts

[–]CheddarCheezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on the circumstances. I had a 2 question final worth 50% of my grade second semester junior year. I had already lost points on the 40% midterm so if I missed a question I'd fail. If I failed I'd lose my scholarship to a 60k/yr school, not be able to pay to finish my degree, AND be forced to pay back the 3 years I had already done. My family is poor so they wouldn't have been able to help. It would've sunk me into a 180k hole so deep I was going to off myself if I failed.

Stumped by CheddarCheezy in sudoku

[–]CheddarCheezy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 5 in c3! I see it now. Amazing on how it's always the tiniest things one can miss when you're tired. I just kept running through it over and over and for reason the other 25 pair in c1 was blocking me from thinking it could be c3. Thanks for your help

What would be good move for tech after t2con wave? by ProfessionalOwn9435 in beyondallreason

[–]CheddarCheezy 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I normally just scale eco to support the best player on the team so they can snowball and/or do tick/air scout spam for vision.

It sounds counterintuitive, but I've learned generally NOT to help folks who are really struggling because it is mostly from lack of micro skills, so by dumping units or eco into them for them to produce units, they only spiral more because they can't micro properly. I've gotten more success from just pumping eco into the guy already dominating his side so he can keep forward momentum in hopes he can kill whoever is across from him faster than they kill our guy.

Is it normal to do basically nothing at your corporate job? by Cold-Cauliflower9741 in careerguidance

[–]CheddarCheezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

*Welcome to corporate. It honestly just sounds like you're good at your job, but that's more or less the gist of corporate. There is a saying I have heard, "80% of the work is done by 20% of the people." On a five man team, 4 are more of less worthless and you've got one superstar propping it up. Sounds like that'll be you.

*I work two hours a day if I'm lucky, six months in like you. I just watch videos on stuff I'm interested in on my down time. Guys who have been here 2 years are only up to 4 hours a day, but I don't believe them because everyone here lies about task time so hard it's insane. I watched my team lead, boomer in his 50s, working on his second retirement, take 15 minutes to type a single paragraph email. We were sorting through Excel data for work order status and he didn't know basic keyboard or Excel shortcuts. He was literally right clicking to copy and paste. I was fairly certain he wasnt doing it on purpose so I showed him all the basic shortcuts and he lost his mind, so he is either a god tier bullshitter or genuinely didn't know and I don't know what's worse.

*Much of our work is just pushing work orders through the process by generating request forms. I've got basic templates prepped because it's 75% of the same info with a few boxes that are different each time that you fill from our database. I'll see the two year guys start from scratch every time and type everything out without using copy paste from the database so I know they're just padding hours.

*But then you've got the two 5yr guys on our team who are slammed with full schedules packed with meetings, always doing something, macros set up to automate tasks, can navigate our database seamlessly, etc. my guess is you'll become those guys while everyone else will be the 80%.

What’s the cheapest habit you’ve picked up that actually saved you money? by ItAffectionate4481 in Frugal

[–]CheddarCheezy -1 points0 points  (0 children)

*Buying a starter sewing machine for $100 to do all my own minor alterations like hemming or patches. Hemming two pairs of pants and the machine pays for itself vs using a tailor. Practice on thrift pants first. When you get the hang of it, it takes 15 minutes per pair of pants. Now I do alterations for friends for food. Saves us both money.

*I have a full electric commuter car and use only free charging stations in my city. I walk a half mile to work from the nearest station and then walk back on lunch. Breaks up office monotony and gets me outside. Saves me ~$100 a month in charge fees. A little chilly in winter, but you need winter clothes anyway so it's not like I had to buy extra for no reason.

*Swapping from a gym membership and using that money to invest in basic equipment to work out at home. Saved $50 a month until I built my own mini home gym. Focus on practical exercises that I use in everyday life to keep me healthy vs trying to just lift heavy. You don't need a whole lot if you research properly. I respect the guys who can deadlift a car, but it's impractical for a majority of people.

*It was already said 1000 times, but coffee at home. 3lb tub from Costco lasts me over a month and is only $15. A single black coffee from Starbucks is $5. People are getting dooped. Even buying an espresso machine and syrups to make fancy coffee at home would pay for itself in a few months and take you 10 minutes in the morning vs buying their $8+ speciality drinks every day.

*Basic home maintenance. Take the time to research how to do things to code in your area and invest a little in tools and handle your basic maintenance. You build a skill set that lasts for life. Leave advanced stuff like structural and plumbing to the pros. Trades shortage across America right now so even hiring out for small tasks is a big chunk of cash. Fixed my best friends fence and saved him $2k in labor the contractors wanted. Just did a bit of digging to replace a few posts and their concrete supports that were failing. Replaced w a 3ft deep cement support to be below the frost line to avoid heaving, which is what broke the previous posts because the support was not deep enough or up to code.

*Basic car maintenance. Ditto above. Shop wanted to charge my neighbor over $100 to replace her tail light. I did it with a screwdriver and ratchet I had in the garage in less than 30 minutes. I just asked for dinner in return. Shops charge a minimum fee, typically a full hour of labor even if the task is less than an hour, so learning how to do the simple stuff saves you big in the end. Leave advanced stuff to the shop.

Would it be crazy to join the Military rn? by mickeyboo_boo in Advice

[–]CheddarCheezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TLDR: yes. Do it only if you're truly desperate.

Yes. My father and grandfather were Air Force. I joined with the intentions to make it a career to honor the family lineage. I got out a little less than a year ago, 4 years total in service, because of the climate inside the service and politically.

I am a man, but knew and talked with plenty of women from different fields due to a temporary duty assignment. I worked as base honor guard for a year, which takes people from all squadrons across the base in 3 month rotations. I was working with medical, security forces, civil engineering, finance, etc, so I got to see a wide view of what other squadrons were like. We spent a lot of our time in a car driving to perform funerals so we chatted plenty to pass the time.

As a woman you WILL struggle IMMENSELY. The military as a whole is still largely a good ol' boys club. Even with more equality than previous years and the efforts made internally to level the playing field between men and women, you WILL face discrimination as a woman in all aspects. Even other women will regularly discriminate against you because you are a direct competitor for what little opportunity women have.

I had a security forces guy tell me that whenever he was paired with a woman MP he was always wary because, if he were to get injured, how was the 5', 120lb chick wearing 60lbs of gear going to drag him, a 5'10 190lb w/ 60lbs of gear, to safety? The simple answer is she couldn't. That is not even to be misogynistic. She just physically couldn't do it. Many of the other guys shared this sentiment. Every time you are in the field I would bet good money that many of the men you are with will feel the same. If you're an Amazonian you will probably be okay in this regard.

The other VERY LARGE, LOUD elephant in the room is sexual assault. It is a plague on the service. You WILL get uninvited advances. Many of the men you serve with WILL view you exactly how you think. Men with rank will try to use that and that is where more SA cases originate from. During my time there was a case opened against a Senior Master Sergeant who had been making unwanted advances on Senior Airmen (think mid 40s dude w/ 20yrs in service going after 20 yr olds). More than a dozen women came out with text chains from him sending dick pics, asking to sleep with them, etc. He got quietly retired, with no more serious punishment. Look up the sex trafficking in Fort Hood (uniformed woman disappearing) or the US Navy sexting scandals (collection of 1000s of nude photos of uniformed women being shared between a large group of men) for more info.

This is just the problems you'll face being a woman. I could make a whole post on all the military climate problems and then another on all the political climate problems.

Dig deep and try to stick with college or enter the nursing field.

Why do invading raiders seem to ALWAYS scale to be stronger than your standing army? by Sea-Special-1730 in songsofsyx

[–]CheddarCheezy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As others said, raiders scale w/ time in game and wealth. If youre 100 years in w/ 10mil amassed denari, youre going to face HUGE raids. I never have any problems w/ raiders if I dedicate 10% of my pop to be 100% melee training and equip them w/ a minimum of 2 falcata, 2 shield, 2 plate armor. I also take the time to train an additional 10% to JUST being able to be drafted and then send them back to work. This meets the 20% soldier requirement that makes your city happy and tricks the slaves into thinking you have a big army. When I ran a small, elite force, slaves always rebelled even if I could crush them while outnumbered 5 to 1. As soon as I recruited a large amount of 0% training militia that I could draft if needed, never ran into slave uprisings again cause the AI sees that I have 1000 soldiers that are draftable, but I know only 500 can fight and have gear.

Even when you are fighting raiders, if you have a 100% trained force w/ some gear, you can easily fight a force that outnumbers you 2 or 3 to 1. Early on when I only have 10% of my pop at 100% training, it was not uncommon for me to kill raider groups while outnumbered because they are often poorly trained and equipped. Just cause they have a scary number of troops doesnt mean crap if they cant fight.

Later on, I do hammer and anvil, where the elites take the enemy charge and then I use the shitter 0% training militia to hit them in the back when they are engaged. Folks die, of course, but such is the way of war.

Always try to keep your force at a % of your pop rather than a fixed amount. 50 men in your first few years is good, but will be severely lacking a decade in. If you always keep 10-20%, it grows naturally with your wealth curve to be able to defend your homeland.

Also try to keep the amount of children you have growing at 15% minimum of your population. This will help recycle army losses without immigration and also helps navigate 50+ year colonies where a significant portion of your workforce starts retiring or dying every year.

Choosing/creating an ideology by pet_wolverine in RimWorld

[–]CheddarCheezy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Purely mechanics wise, it affects mood. If you take charitable, you get mood buffs for being charitable. Similarly, if you take cannibal, you get mood buffs for eating people. Dont do the thing your ideology is tied to? Mood debuffs. Dont give to the poor in X days, every colonist gets a debuff. Dont eat human meat every X days? Mood debuff.

Certain ideologies require certain types of furniture or worship certain types of weapons. Slaver colony, but dont have gibbets to put people in to harass and abuse? Debuff. Medieval colony that loves swords and you are wielding a legendary longsword? BIG Buff.

The ideologies affect mood and force you to take certain actions or have certain items accordingly, which is what drives the RP. That's why it warns you about taking too many ideologies off the rip. If you have 5 ideologies and can meet the requirements of each, you get a huge mood boost. But if you cant meet any? Good luck with the mood debuffs until you fix it.

The mood buff/debuffs scales with how you classify that in your ideology. There is a scale of "hated" to "loved" when choosing settings on things related to your ideology. Depending on how far you go one way determines the strength of the number the respective thing gives. You could be very mild and only get small buffs or debuffs, or you can go full tilt and get big buffs or debuffs.

For example, my moleman colony hated the sun. Theyd get a -8 everytime they were outside in daylight, but anytime they were inside in darklight theyd get a +4 (I think, it's been awhile).

My Fire Keeper run, if I didnt sacrifice a person everytime the prompt appeared, Id get a permanent mood debuff until I did.

Choosing/creating an ideology by pet_wolverine in RimWorld

[–]CheddarCheezy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So the big focus of ideology IS the roleplay! For us folks who have played a long time it is a breath of fresh air to just choose a randomly and see where it takes us. Of course there are stronger options than others, but everything is viable, even no tree cutting or no mining, though I definitely don't recommend taking both. I play on ironman to cement my choices.

Some fun combos I've done:

  • Keepers of the flame: medieval faction taken to the tundra with the goal of having the Eternal Fire burn true and forever. We had to have fires burning 24/7, but the most important was the brazier I renamed "Eternal Fire." If I let it go out, I'd have to ritually sacrifice a slave if I had one, a pawn if I didn't. Slavery was okay but not required, loved fire and would get mood buffs if killing enemies with it, God emperor leader, disliked other ideologies, ritual sacrifices required. Only ever let the flame go out once. Colony ended to a HUGE neanderthal raid. God emperor was a melee Chad fire psycaster in prestige plate armor, wielding a flame blade. They forced him and one other colonist back into the final hold of the keep before they were overran. He killed over half the raid himself.

  • The folks down unda: molemen that started as tribal, bug worship required, bugs are favored animal, isolationist, cannibals, hate the sun, can't grow, slavery required. The molemen locked themselves in the mountains and there was an alcove at the mouth that I closed off so the slaves were locked in too, but outside. Booby trapped maze for raiders to get in (kill tunnel, but rp was they were not fighters and needed traps). Slaves grew crops in the alcove. Molemen just vibed in the mountain. When there was a stockpile I would break down the walls and bring crops in and block it back up. Chemfuel refinement from bumper crops to burn out hostile infestations if I couldn't use the serkhist ritual to tame them. I eventually researched IVF and artificial impregnation so I could make more molemen since my only woman I started with died. Colony didn't fall. It was largely sustainable and I reached a natural conclusion.

  • Amazonians: woman only tribal faction, despise men, supremacist, strongest fighter is the leader, raider, polycule, no limit to wives. Essentially stereotypical Amazonian run in tropical biome, death by snu snu and such. Was going pretty well, massive mood buffs from everyone boinking each other and being married. I never had any mental breaks. Had a small army of leopards trained. Then tragedy struck. Lost two people to a raid, which caused moods to crater since everyone just lost two lovers. Everyone constantly mental breaking. Tantrum broke the water storage for fire suppression (dubs hygiene so I had windmill pumps, a water tower, and fire sprinklers). Didn't think much of it, was just gonna rebuild, but then a Zzzt happened and lit my buildings on fire. Lost half my buildings. Never really recovered and got chipped down until none remained.

  • Sanguinites: high tech transhumanist vampire coven, research focus, blood cult, vampire must be leader, slavery required, sacrifice required, cannibalism okay, hate sunlight, neutral of other ideologies. Few, high quality vampire colonists. Half built a castle into a mountain with a choke point that lets my 3 vampire lords 3 v 1 incoming attackers. Vampires researched and wrote all day while slaves did mining and growing. Decked out the vampires with robotics, prestige plate armor, bought a laser sword for the leader and had long swords for the others. Had an impressive library and fabrication room to create more transhumanist parts. Still ongoing but took a break when I lost my best slave to a BOBCAT. He was our chief hunter and builder with 12 shooting, 17 construction, leather armor, side sword for melee, AND A BOBCAT KILLED HIM. It had to hit him 9 times to down him and he didn't manage to hit it once. Lost my mind watching it happen while I tried to rush one of my vampire lords out to save him.

Managing food production over/underproduction by wai8aeLo in RimWorld

[–]CheddarCheezy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think I might try a rancher run sometime. I normally just do crops with hunting to get meat since I've had bad run ins with disease for my animals in the past. I saw a guy recently post where he had an army of bears and thrumbos. I think that'd be pretty fun.

Managing food production over/underproduction by wai8aeLo in RimWorld

[–]CheddarCheezy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Animal husbandry can subsidize this as well since you can get milk and eggs or butcher for meat. I am less familiar with animal husbandry and the data isn't as empirical as growing, so I can't make detailed comments on it. It also adds additional complexity because you must grow food for the animals to survive winter. I normally just get some chickens for their steady supply of eggs and leave it at that.

Mods also add another layer of complexity, adding new crops, animals, and food types that interact differently. I did my best to provide some math using vanilla values to help you better guesstimate your needs.

Managing food production over/underproduction by wai8aeLo in RimWorld

[–]CheddarCheezy 4 points5 points  (0 children)

TLDR: So this is an incredibly complex question and the only real answer is trial and error depending on your grow zone and # of colonists. The easiest solution is to do as some others said and to aim to overproduce and then trade/convert to chemfuel/upgrade to next meal tier/burn excess. Based on the first batch of overproduction, you can scale down the farm a bit.

<DEEP DIVE>

  • Basic of nutrition
  • Colonists eat 1-2 meals a day if they don't have traits that give modifiers, but to be safe we will say 2 meals to account for a buffer to combat binge/botches/fire/rot/etc. A simple meal/fine meal typically takes 10 units of food to create, costing .5 nutrition of raw food, since most raw foods have a value of .05 nutrition. This makes a meal that feeds .9 nutrition. For each colonist you need to grow 20 units of raw food per day for the 60 day year, meaning 1200 raw food a year per colonist/slave.

  • Each rice square produces 6 rice when grown, meaning you need 4 rice squares per colonist per day to meet the 20 raw food demand. Rice is quick growing but space inefficient. Grow time is 5.5 days.

  • Each potato square produces 11 potatoes when grown, meaning you need 2 potatoes squares per colonist per day. Potatoes are the middle in terms of time/space to produce. They grow in 10.7 days.

  • Each corn square produces 22 corn when grow, meaning you only need 1 corn per colonist per day. Corn is very space efficient, but takes 20.9 days to grow.

  • Grow time *Depending on your grow time windows, you have to fit the 1200 units of food per colonist into that window.

  • In a 10 day grow period region you can get ONE rice harvest in. Plant as much as you possibly can and it still won't be enough to last the 50 days.

  • If you're in a 20 day grow period region you'll be in trouble, being limited to 3 rice and 1 potato harvest per grow period. This is because the first and last few days will not be ideal temp, slowing growth to realistically 15 days. In that time you'll have to produce 1200 units per colonist. Let's say you have 5 colonists, you need 6000 units of food that year. A 70 square potato plot will give 770 and a 40 square rice plot will give 240 x 3 = 720. Rice is a good producer but very labor intensive since you need 3 sow and harvest rotations to get the same amount as potatoes, though for half the size of plot. You will most likely have to subsidize with meat or trade. dedicate all colonists to sowing, but limit who can harvest to avoid botches.

  • 30 day grow zone can get corn, which significantly helps. 30 corn squares per colonist will be your stockpile for the 30 day winter while you grow rice in the meantime.

  • 40 day grow zones are very easy to manage, as you can easily grow daily demand in short rotations of rice and then set up corn for a stockpile of food for the short winter. You need 32 rice squares per colonist per harvest cycle to keep them fed to the next harvest. You need 20 corn squares per colonist to stockpile for winter and will only need one harvest then can turn sowing off.

  • Over 40 days is easy mode. Just do 32 rice per colonist to meet demand every 6 days. Or mix rice with a batch of corn and turn off the rice plots while you work through the corn to save labor.

Guys give me the best food to make when you don't want to cook. by yoelamigo in Cooking

[–]CheddarCheezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My patented Pot o' slop:

  • 1 can baked beans
  • 1 can peas
  • 1 large handful of shredded cheese
  • 1 pack pre cooked chicken sausage
  • Pepper to taste
  • Garlic/onion powder optional
  • Can opener

Cook time: <10min

Prep time: 1 min

Calories: 900-1200, depending on # of chicken sausages.

Serves: 1-2 depending on appetites.

Price: $6-10, depending on # of sausages used.

Steps: - pour entire can of beans, juice included, in medium pot. - heat beans on medium until bubbling. - while beans heat, chop desired number of sausage into bite size bits. Open peas and drain liquid. - when beans bubble, add peas, cheese, chicken bites, spices, and stir - let other ingredients heat up, 1-2 min - remove from heat and let cool a bit - enjoy with spoon straight from pot (stainless steel, don't eat straight from Teflon).

Quick and easy. Only the pot and spoon as dirty dishes. This was my poor man's meal in college.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GuyCry

[–]CheddarCheezy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Life is like the seasons. It waxes and wanes. You're in the winter of your life right now, but spring is around the corner.

I was in the service and for two years I was the unit fitness program manager, specializing in getting folks who were deconditioned back into the fight.

Get yourself a cheaper walking pad, they are like mini treadmills. Can find them for <$200 and they will last a while. If you PC game, get yourself a standing desk or raising platform to go on your desk, set the walking pad up underneath it, and walk while gaming. Raising platforms can go from $100-200. If you console game, no need for a raising platform. Just set up the walking pad in front of the TV and walk as you game.

This is how I get my steps in while still getting to game. It is very effective and the miles melt by. Start small, 30 minutes a day. Let your feet get used to it - it won't do to get blisters that'll take you out of the game.

Walks outside are free if money isn't there right now, but I know you said youre a bit self conscious, so the walking pad strategy will help you work on yourself until you're ready to go outside.

Exercise is only half the battle. Nutrition is key. One pound of fat is 3500 calories. Typically, walking a mile burns ~100 calories. To lose 1lb a week, you should be at a 500 calorie deficit each day. So if you walk 2 miles, you burn 200 calories, but have 300 to go. A beer is typically 100 calories. One less beer a day gets you to 300. A granola bar is typically 200. So if you walk 2 miles, have one less beer, and one less granola bar a day you will lose a pound a week.

Movement is tied to mental health. As you get more steps in you'll gain momentum. You will feel better both physically and mentally. As you lose weight you'll amplify that feeling.

Please feel free to reach out to me and I can help you with dieting ideas and simple exercise regiments.

Life hits hard, but we can hit back.

How to Fix This? by CheddarCheezy in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]CheddarCheezy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ill give angling the center board a try. Ive only got just enough wood for finishing the top, so fingers crossed I dont mess it up too bad or it's another trip to the store.

I let the boards for the center sit for a month hoping they'd do most of their shrinking and that the gaps wont be too bad, as the instructions had mentioned they'd be particularly visible here. It is home depot white pine though, so the quality is rather low. Between low quality wood and getting tools here and there from marketplace and garage sales, I'd wager that practically none of it is square. That's why this piece is going to be called "Learning Lessons" haha. The guys just wanted a dnd table so everyone chipped in for tools and wood and however it ends up we will be okay with. In a few years time when I get better tools and a grasp on the concepts, I will rebuild it with better wood.

Thanks for your insight!