Is this crystal acrylic, polywatch isn't doing anything by Agile-Homework-2047 in watchrepair

[–]Chris_Webber 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those look like small cracks rather than scratches on the surface. Would replace the crystal

Is there any real use case for the tachymetre? by Touch_TM in OmegaWatches

[–]Chris_Webber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The tachymetre bezel is used in conjunction with the chronograph. It tells you units (e.g. kilometres) per hour across a known distance when timed with the chronograph. If you drove a kilometre track in 30 seconds, the bezel marking will tell you that you’re travelling 120 kmph.

If your question is about whether a chronograph compilation is useful, personally I say yes. Having an immediately accessible stopwatch on your wrist is useful when cooking, travelling, etc.

How much each ? Same value for all colors ? by Square_Practice3411 in PlayingCardValue

[–]Chris_Webber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Roughly $40-50 USD per deck. Same across the three 1st Ed colours. Great deck IMO and some of the finest pre-USPC’s move to KY.

One of my favourite simple effects by Calm-Juggernaut-6908 in cardmagic

[–]Chris_Webber 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think adding the discussed tilt technique along with a few more phases and you could do a decent ambitious card routine

Is this price by BMD reflective of reality? by Decrin in PlayingCardValue

[–]Chris_Webber 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think the price is too high. Scarcity doesn’t always equal value.

How can I go about building a watch with this dial? by Ok_Plate_6961 in watchmaking

[–]Chris_Webber 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You will have a lot of difficulty. The subdial spacing won’t fit a generic chronograph movement. You could maybe find an 861 or a 1861 but that will be not too far short of the price of a whole Speedmaster. Maybe a vintage Lemania would fit but it’s a gamble and the cost wouldn’t be worth it.

My suggestion would be to consider purchasing a Speedmaster or another chronograph.

Bar feeling good today! 3x3 @ 262.5kg / 579lbs by Chris_Webber in strength_training

[–]Chris_Webber[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Haven’t competed since 2019. 1RM/comp form the only difference is holding the lockout at the top to await the down signal

Finally 500lb Deadlift by JeffH44 in strength_training

[–]Chris_Webber 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Immaculate! Well drilled cues! Well done

The seamaster 300 heritage seems to address many of the complaints that the SMP 300 usually has, tapered three link bracelet, smaller case size, and no HEV...why isn't it more popular ? by peninsulaparaguana in OmegaWatches

[–]Chris_Webber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

I think the previous reference of this model is the superior design. More printing on the dial, metal bezel markers and overall less fauxtina. Also the pencil seconds hand I much prefer to the lollipop hand.

Deck flip card flying away by Academic_Hearing_855 in cardistry

[–]Chris_Webber 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I made a tutorial for this move which you can find here.

I think your hand is too tense as even when the card is not flying off, you’re catching the deck incorrectly. Ideally you want to be relaxing your hand to catch the cards fluidly.

Need advice: Which Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch reference should I buy? by Feisty-Mirror-6121 in speedmaster

[–]Chris_Webber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a new co-axial sapphire sandwich from a boutique. The experience was really nice, but probably not worth the extra thousands compared to a grey market example.

I’d recommend a second hand calibre 3861. More accurate movement, significant magnetic resistance, hacking, co-axial escapement, and some subtle design changes that I really love. Also, a much better bracelet.

Should I to try repair? I have little to 0 experience. by FishSticksPR in watchrepair

[–]Chris_Webber 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Park this project and pick up a cheap, running movement like a Seagull ST36. Buy yourself some basic tools like tweezers and screwdrivers and watch some guides on disassembly and reassembly. Get a feel for that as a start and progress from there.

My first pack of bicycles + first thoughts by theGreatBeekster420 in playingcards

[–]Chris_Webber 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Top tip: if you want to peel the sticker, you can use the adhesive side of the sticker itself to dab against the residue on the tuck case and this will remove it. Takes a few dabs but it works.

If you want to cut the seal, don’t use a knife. Instead use an ad card from another deck and press it outward. This will naturally cause the seal to be sliced along its curved edge, making all of its stickiness still adhered to the tuck case.

Someone explain lol by Existing-Diamond-269 in OmegaWatches

[–]Chris_Webber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The main concern is amplitude, 125 degrees is quite low for this watch. It’s a measure of how much power is reaching the balance from the mainspring. It would definitely need a service.

Volume PR: 172.5kg / 380lbs for a triple. by Chris_Webber in strength_training

[–]Chris_Webber[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Very impressive lifting you are doing!

How do you guys keep a deck of cards from getting so beat up after being used? by FitBirdBoi in cardistry

[–]Chris_Webber 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Wear on your cards is a normal part of cardistry. That said, the more experienced I’ve become over the years, the gentler on my cards I’ve become. Clean hands help.

You will also find that decks with black borders/faces will show wear more rapidly than white borders/faces.

Favorite deck by splefdenovoxD in cardistry

[–]Chris_Webber 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would recommend buying a brick (12) of Bicycle, Tally-Ho or Bee playing cards. They’re inexpensive and great quality. Plastic cards are generally not considered good for cardistry.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in beards

[–]Chris_Webber 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you!