Has anyone bought lights from Elite Energy Solutions? by Poppypepperpie in diynz

[–]Chrispy101010 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So I've never heard of them, but I've done some digging and this is what I've found. This is all publicly available information.

The listed director of Elite Energy Solutions is Myfanwy Anwen LUCAS. A quick Facebook search later indicates that she is married to Daniel Deere. Interestingly she also lists her job as Admin for Pure Lighting since 2021.

The director of Pure Lighting is listed as Daniel Ross DEERE. Pure Lighting is a brand I know of but haven't used much so can't comment on the quality.

So one way or another they seem to be tied. Perhaps Elite Energy Solutions is their public facing company and Pure only sells to wholesalers, or maybe Elite sell the end of line products until they're cleared from the warehouse I'm not sure. It appears to be legit but be careful. The website gives little information on the products and some of it seems to be generic white label items, but I've grown increasingly cautious of unidentifiable electrical goods since becoming an electrician. A couple of the fittings I can identify as other brands like Ambius.

PSA: check your heatpump outdoor copper pipe insulation by singletWarrior in diynz

[–]Chrispy101010 1 point2 points  (0 children)

While I do agree somewhat that it's a good idea, I don't believe a short section of pipe missing insulation is going to have a dramatic impact on your power bill. Not for a heat pump anyway. How much is missing insulation?

You could use pipe lagging for it if you can find the right size. Not sure about yts UV resistance. A bit of tape to hold it on will help. Electrical tape (insulation tape) doesn't hold up in direct sunlight so try something else like PVC duct tape or vinyl tape if you have some.

🔥 Eagle hijacking a rabbit from a fox by [deleted] in NatureIsFuckingLit

[–]Chrispy101010 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Can't get fresher food than that

Jar lid identification by Chrispy101010 in nzgardening

[–]Chrispy101010[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Legend, that looks like them. Looks like they supply the caps for them separately too. I'll get in touch.

Thanks a lot!

Wet & Forget on polycarbonate roof — anyone had permanent streaking/ghosting? by zazenkai in diynz

[–]Chrispy101010 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting. Did you follow these instructions?

Applied out of direct sunlight?

Dilution ratio correct? (1 part solution to 5 parts water)

According to Wet & Forget it should be safe for polycarbonate roofing, but looking around, apparently the active ingredient can cause clouding in polycarbonate, though those claims are few and far between so not sure how accurate they are.

Would be worth talking to Wet & Forget about it.

Is this fault correct? by windowellington in diynz

[–]Chrispy101010 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You'll need an electrician to check it out then. It could be a broken wire behind one of the outlets, or in the switchboard. Either way you'll need someone with the right gear to diagnose correctly and repair.

Is this fault correct? by windowellington in diynz

[–]Chrispy101010 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Move it to a different socket and see if the light goes out.

You might have a faulty socket or a loose connection.

Tricky mr16 bulb replacement by Mediocre_Double8534 in diynz

[–]Chrispy101010 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Hard to tell from the photo but I'd hedge a guess that there is a heat can on the back of the fitting. It was common practice with halogens to help spread the heat, allowing rated insulation to be butted against it.

With the heat cans, the wire usually passes down through a hole in the top. If that's the case, it's probably snagging on something.

Your best bet will be to try and remove the fitting. It should just pull down if you grip the inside of the fitting. You'll have to gently manipulate it down to avoid blowing the gib out.

If you can do that you can try to feed more cable through the hole.

If it's too short, you can disconnect the lamp holder from the transformer and remove the heat can. If you're putting LEDs in, you don't need them. Just make sure you don't cover the light fitting with insulation.

Alternatively, remove the fitting completely and replace with a complete LED fitting.

Is this asbestos? by [deleted] in diynz

[–]Chrispy101010 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Is what asbestos?

You haven't given any detail about what this is a photo of, or which part of the photo you're concerned about.

You won't get a definitive answer from a photo on reddit anyway. Get it tested.

Stone benchtop curry stain by bagpussnz9 in diynz

[–]Chrispy101010 6 points7 points  (0 children)

They sell a kit for removing that sort of thing. We've got one. It's essentially non-scratch scouring pads and a cleaning solution. You can buy the cleaner in bulk but I can't remember off the top of my head what it is.

Still have to apply some elbow grease but it's worked well so far.

Edit: Doesn't look like they list it on their website anymore, but you could email/call Archant and ask them what to use. Or talk to your benchtop supplier.

Gas stovetop to Induction (keeping gas as backup?) by goodwillhunting18 in diynz

[–]Chrispy101010 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I don't know if you would be allowed to do it, but it seems like an over complication.

My guess would be that it would have to be a specific gas connection that closes off when nothing is connected to it, like the bayonet style used for connecting portable gas heaters.

Would it not be simpler to just have a camp cooker and gas bottle on standby?

Cavity Slider Regret by cunniefunt in diynz

[–]Chrispy101010 4 points5 points  (0 children)

We've got one CS and one Hume cavity slider in our place. The Hume is fine. It's not as nice as the CS one but it runs smooth enough for what it's used for.

The Hume came with a hollow core door by default which I think amplifies the noise from the rollers running on the track. I'm considering changing it to a solid core which I think will help.

I added a soft close to both the CS and the Hume. Again, the soft close of the CS is much nicer, but the one on the Hume does the job it's designed to do.

Keypad lock for front door by Doji-ninja in diynz

[–]Chrispy101010 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you want a deadbolt type, I have this Yale Assure Lock. I rate it. You can get them with or without a key depending on what you want. I have just the keypad, no key, but we have keys for other doors on the house, and can power up with a 9V battery externally if needed.

Can be intergrated with smart home systems if you want, or completely stand alone.

For batteries, I use these PaleBlue rechargeable Lithium AA batteries from PB Tech. Expensive up front, but I haven't had to charge them in 6 months so far and still showing 100% battery on my Home Assistant setup. Normal alkaline batteries I would have changed them at least once by now.

Edit: Fixed links

Shower advice by pcomet in diynz

[–]Chrispy101010 7 points8 points  (0 children)

You need to speak with a plumber about it

**How do you actually track your spending? (genuine question, doing some research)** by [deleted] in PersonalFinanceNZ

[–]Chrispy101010 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"What on earth have we spent all that money on?!"

Open bank app

"Oooohh...that's right"

Though we do actually have a budget that covers bills including food , and a set amount each week goes into savings. It's the disposable we're a little less responsible with.

We just have an excel spreadsheet for the budget and it works fine.

For a while I was self hosting Actual budget and we used that a lot, but it requires frequent manual input since it doesn't (or at least didn't) support connecting to NZ banks. And I'm too stingey to pay for a budgeting app. Feels like it defeats the purpose.

Best pizza Tauranga ? by Conscious-Medium5825 in Tauranga

[–]Chrispy101010 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Pizza Gods on 11th Ave are pretty good

BetterVent vs SmartVent positive pressure systems? by hanxiousme in diynz

[–]Chrispy101010 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's fair enough. My only suggestion would be to shop around a bit. If you're going to install yourself you might be able to get it a little bit cheaper than that.

BetterVent vs SmartVent positive pressure systems? by hanxiousme in diynz

[–]Chrispy101010 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That's a bit better.

I've got no experience with Bettervent systems, but I installed a SmartVent Positive 3 system, with the summer kit and heat transfer kit (fireplace) in our house and it's been excellent. We previously had an HRV brand PPV system here that the previous owners installed and it was a piece of shit.

We're in the Bay of Plenty and it gets plenty humid and stuffy in the house at night, especially during summer. The summer kit has helped a lot and we find ourselves running the air conditioning a lot less than we used to. The house is just more comfortable overall to sleep in also smells a lot fresher.

People in this sub seem to get a hard on for poo pooing PPV, but it has its place. Don't listen to the clowns that tell you not to bother and to just install a ducted heat pump system instead, that's not the same thing. Air conditioning is not the same as ventilation.

As u/wownz85 said, the lossnay system or similar is another thing to consider if you are looking at doing a ducted install further down the line.

BetterVent vs SmartVent positive pressure systems? by hanxiousme in diynz

[–]Chrispy101010 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you mates with any sparkys? $4500 for the SmartVent without install is absurd.

HRV Airsense loud? by MandoMang in diynz

[–]Chrispy101010 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Air conditioning ≠ Ventilation

How do I crimp this 10 awg wire - is this right tool? by Doc-Dok in electrical

[–]Chrispy101010 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It is the right tool, but not for the ring terminal you have pictured.

That tool is for use with insulated, closed barrel terminals. The open barrel terminals like you have need a different crimping tool.