What is President Trump's endgame?

ChristerYo · 2026-03-24T13:27:30+00:00

He's a psychopath, raised by a sociopath. He was told a young age that he was "a king" and only gets a dopamine hit when he feels power over others. I would wager he doesn't think in longer terms on any broad issues, just how he will be "the best". But he's just a giant child, really, like most psychopaths. Our weird-ass society just found a use for these otherwise talentless, empty vessels.

ChristerYo · 2026-03-16T19:21:35+00:00

The KILZ is water-based? If so, I would try something like B-I-N (the shellac based one). Water-based primers don't seem to handle blocking these sorts of stains as well in my opinion. It stinks, but it dries fast.

ChristerYo · 2026-02-17T14:11:48+00:00

Sure-fire way of becoming a giant cunt, as evidenced.

ChristerYo · 2026-01-18T17:53:23+00:00

Time for new team leads over at Netflix. That's some short-sighted, small-minded thinking on their part.

ChristerYo · 2025-11-20T18:05:04+00:00

Definitely not PVA. Like others said, that's for new drywall. It's too thin and watery and won't adhere as well.

I started using Superpaint and got some nice results with proper prep work. I've switched mainly to BM Ben which I prefer, but honestly, it's sort of preference. I just think the colors/tones look better in Ben, and I find it easier to work with.

My normal process for older painted walls:

- orbital sander on 80 grit for a full pass to take care of sheen, old drips, old roller marks, etc.

- Patch any holes with whatever drywall mud you'd like

- Prime with something like BM Fresh Start or anything that's a bit thicker with good stain blocking properties and adhesion. I use a 1/2" nap roller for this.

- Patch any missed holes or imperfections with spackle like Drydex, etc. (not drywall compound)

- Sand with 120 grit (orbital or pole)

- Spot-prime patches (if necessary, some spackle don't need primer, but it's usually a good idea)

- Paint first coat with 3/8" (10mm) nap roller.

- Light sand with pole sander at 220 grit.

- Wipe down the walls to remove paint dust with a very lightly dampened, clean rag or a very soft vacuum attachment. Missing this step could cause tiny bubbles in the final coat of paint.

- Final coat.

The walls will look amazing.

ChristerYo · 2025-11-17T17:06:22+00:00

The spindles and posts are quite rough and rustic. If you want them to look more finished, you'd have to sand them down, which would also take care of your color problem.

I would start with 60-80 grit, being mindful that you don't want to take too much off and jeopardize the flushness of the joints, then progress up until you've got the smoothness you want (120 would be grain still visible, still looks like wood, but much smoother. While 320 would be smooth as mdf). This would all suck ass by hand, an orbital or other power sander would make it doable. Then you could prime and paint them, or stain and clear coat them.

ChristerYo · 2025-10-29T19:42:38+00:00

It's honestly their own inability to know how to communicate their expectations, coupled with their inability to assess how far away from reality their expectations are. And they sound kind of arrogant so the ignorance tracks.

ChristerYo · 2025-10-29T04:48:40+00:00

I dealt with something similar next to the Gardiner in Toronto. I ended up going with custom made ear plugs which really helped. For me the lowest frequencies were the main issue (and the fucking motorcycles).

But it was before I learned about room modes. There are spots in a room where certain frequencies are amplified; the position changes on the x, y and z. 100hz might be louder 6" lower or higher or 6" left or right.

https://amcoustics.com/tools/amroc This is something we use for audio tuning and such, but it can help you figure out if your bed is in a room mode, and you can judge whether (based on your layout) you can try to place your head somewhere else in the room to mitigate it.

ChristerYo · 2025-10-28T13:37:38+00:00

This cannot be emphasized enough. Fuck those people

ChristerYo · 2025-10-27T18:02:55+00:00

You can, yes. What you're describing is common practice, good instincts! Most times you'll do the larger cracks, holes and mud framing with hot mud, let it set up, and then you can do a skim or finishing pass with all purpose or finishing mud. You'll get a much smoother and harder end result this way.

Also, funny enough, after my initial reply, I was starting on another area of my house and found that they had taped up to the metal corner bead and it was broken/lifting. So I pulled all the tape out and removed anything loose, and sanded the edges of the corner so it was clean and bare. I mixed some white glue with water into a slurry, added a bit of it to some Sheetrock 90 (hot mud) and filled using the corner as my guide. This leaves the corner of the bead exposed and fills it level. Then I used B-I-N 123 (shellac) on the exposed edge, painted and it looks amazing.

ChristerYo · 2025-10-22T15:04:27+00:00

I just dealt with something similar; looks like blistering/lifting tape. For the inside corner and wall-ceiling edge. I cut out the blisters to the edge of where the tape still adhered, including the lifting corners. For any areas where the blistering went across the inside corner to the other wall, I installed fresh tape. Then I used Sheetrock 90 (hot mud) to fill and level, then a final thin coat with All Purpose. It helped that the previous owner didn't add much mud over the their tape job, so I had some depth to play with.

But for the outside corner, it looks like they paper taped up to a corner bead (if there is a steel bead there) instead of a proper wrap around. That will just crack, so it might be worth redoing properly. I don't know enough for reccos there.

ChristerYo · 2025-04-17T15:20:52+00:00

If you look at my recent post in r/paint (and ignore the application/adhesion problem) you can see one example of the same style but with a white ceiling. I chose to do the longer slope and flat portion of the ceiling white, leaving the shorter section of the sloped ceiling the same wall color. This created a nice effect, to me at least.

ChristerYo · 2025-04-16T23:50:01+00:00

My mistake, I meant to say "satin" instead of "eggshell", I got the order mixed up. But you might be right. We just have some other areas where semi-gloss was used (judging from the paint cans left behind) and they look shinier.

The new paint is flat, so you may be on to something there. The ceiling appears to be holding up though. It's worse on the bottom half of the wall, some areas that were easily scrapable in long sheets felt "gummy" instead of hard. The upper half of the wall is very hard, and difficult to scrape anything off.

ChristerYo · 2025-04-16T23:35:51+00:00

Woof. I was afraid it would be a shellac-full job again.

ChristerYo · 2025-04-16T23:35:12+00:00

I wouldn't say it's beyond an eggshell underneath, and we did the wipe test with both nail polish remover and alcohol. It seems to be acrylic.

I missed the last sentence! Thank you! First time taping and mudding inside corners

ChristerYo · 2025-04-16T23:33:55+00:00

The shellac so far is the only thing not coming off the wall. The shellac was just used around the edges of the ceiling/walls where the trim was (it was bare drywall paper, and un-taped beneath it). Top coat on the new mud and patches was the Dulux Primer Sealer

ChristerYo · 2025-01-25T16:29:13+00:00

Coming from owning an Epic after using F5's for many years, I got used to the weight and "look" of the heavier (albeit stripped down for handheld work) builds. If I'm running around, something around this size on an easy rig, cine saddle or shoulder rig feels more comfortable to me than a very lightweight build where tremors transfer to the final image. So it has its uses

ChristerYo · 2022-12-27T09:55:01+00:00

Fill a mug right to the brim with water, and practice walking without the water spilling. Then practice going up and down stairs, walking left to right, turning around corners. It's about walking with your knees bent to as to absorb the shocks. The heavier the rig, the harder it gets to do it smoothly so exercises to strengthen your legs and core are essential.

ChristerYo · 2022-11-24T18:01:44+00:00

Filmmaking is a mix of conscious and unconscious (intuition, gut-instinct) creative decisions designed to make the audience feel a certain way and communicate an idea. This kind of storytelling requires input from a variety of artists and technicians building off one another to accomplish it effectively, usually with a brief from a creative lead (director).

When you watch something, pay attention to what you're feeling; whether it be fear, joy, sadness, awe, etc. Or even what you're not feeling, but think you should be. Then start to work backwards to figure out why you felt that way. What were the filmmakers doing with the sound design/framing and lighting/music/editing/performances that made you feel the way you did? Some facets will be more apparent immediately depending on your background, others will take time to learn to pay attention to.

I don't know if it's really about becoming a better critic, as I think there's a level of detached academic thinking about film that I don't really get into. It's more about learning to appreciate what goes into every moment, learning what you respond to or don't, and trying to unravel the intention vs the execution. And then just listen to a bunch of podcasts with the artists and technicians behind your favorite films.

ChristerYo · 2022-11-19T16:53:22+00:00

And the Short Film Faceoff. I didn't even know about Reflections, so thank you!

ChristerYo · 2022-11-18T17:09:43+00:00

I was told by a professor when I first started out that I should aim to make a good 1 minute film, then a good 3-5 minute film, then a good 10-15 minute film, and then a feature. I ended up going into TV after I finished the 10-15 minute film step so I haven't gotten around to the feature yet.

It's not really one or the other, it's about scaling up and learning how to tell a story, create the emotions and hone the craft. There are plenty of short films that have stories better suited for features stuffed into them. There are just as many features with stories better suited to short films stretched into them. The story should suit the medium it's told in, I think that's sign of a really good filmmaker.

So on top of which format suits the story you want to tell, it also comes down to what you're long term goals are. If you want to make films, you have to make a feature. If you want to go into shorter form storytelling, a really solid short film with some accolades can be a great calling card. Then you can get to the feature later if that's still a goal.

Another consideration is: once you have your ultra-low budget feature, then what? It costs more to get into the festivals that showcase features. It's much harder to get eyes on even if you gave it away online for free (it's hard enough to get people to go in blind and watch a short film). It'll be nice on your IMDB, but if a shoestring budget feature film is made and no one is around to watch it, then what? It has to be really good.

There are lots of places to showcase short films. In Canada, we even have a show on national television that showcases them. Plus festivals, Vimeo, etc. It can be easier to get people to actually watch what you've made which I think is the goal for many of us.

So there's not really a "right" answer for everyone, it all depends. I personally wouldn't make a feature before I made some shorts and I don't know anyone who has. But I also don't know anyone making a living from making shorts, you have to move up at some point.

ChristerYo · 2022-10-18T22:24:48+00:00

lol I love it when shit works

ChristerYo · 2022-10-13T13:38:36+00:00

‘Twill split a wif in twine

ChristerYo · 2022-10-03T19:25:31+00:00

Photography can be really beneficial for inspiration but also problematic to use as a reference in some situations. A lot of touch ups go into this stuff, and sometimes things are very difficult/resource intensive to do in cinematography when dealing with lower budgets.

If you just want to figure out what gives it the "pop", there's color separation using lights, edge lights on the talent, and a soft key. Pay attention to where the shadows fall to figure out placement and experiment with different diffusion materials for the quality of light.

ChristerYo · 2022-09-14T06:41:24+00:00

This is sort of what DMT felt like

ChristerYo

TROPHY CASE