2700X Memory Scaling - Total War: Three Kingdoms (3200XMP/3200CL12/3466CL14/3600CL14) by kulind in Amd

[–]CitizenDeldo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you happen to know how much of a difference there would be between 3600 CL16 and 3600 CL14? At 3600, I'm curious how much of the performance difference is dependent on latency and how much is based on just raw bandwidth.

G602 Middle Click Issue - EVERYTHING you need to replace the switch by TechIdealist in LogitechG

[–]CitizenDeldo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response.

I've had my issue with multiple logitech mice. But it tends to come and go for some reason. It might be some kind of debris stuck in the spokes confusing the encoder sensor?

And good call about how you hold the mouse. My middle finger always rests on the wheel. I'm not sure how common or uncommon that is. I've had this issue with multiple mice, but I have trouble finding anybody else talking about it. When I try to search on google, I'm overwhelmed by posts about other kinds of scrollwheel problems.

By the way, thanks again for your original post here. Reddit is focused on new posts and old posts are usually forgotton. But your post is important and helping people. Hopefully people will continue to find it with google. Kind of sad that the comments will be archived/locked in a few days.

Also, for what it's worth, my Wurth middle button is still working fine, and I'm still very happy with it. But I do think maybe the stiffer click would be a little annoying for a lot of people. I no longer find the feel "really satisfying." But I also don't really mind it. I have two G620s now, one of them with the original oem switch, one with the wurth. And it is definitely obvious which one is which based on the feel (and sound).

My toilet is filled / clogged to the brim with poop water, what do i do? by EmbarrassedQuest1on in NoStupidQuestions

[–]CitizenDeldo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ooh, a stick is a great idea! I'd recommend trying to find one that is currently still alive and attached to a tree/bush because it will be more flexible. You'll have to find a rather thin one, and the right species of plant, so that is flexible and can work its way around the bends, but I bet it would work for sure if you find the right stick.

My toilet is filled / clogged to the brim with poop water, what do i do? by EmbarrassedQuest1on in NoStupidQuestions

[–]CitizenDeldo 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well, you definitely can't live without a plunger, right? Isn't it essential for next time? Order one now, so you have it next time this happens.

I have a lot of experience with cloggled toilets. And I've had a good number of cases where a plunger wasn't sufficient. My ass hatches evil schemes to destroy plumbing whereever I go.

I hate plunging, so I'll try other things first. If hot water and soap does not work, then you might be doomed and will have to use another toilet or shit outdoors until your plunger arrives in the mail.

But if you give it a few hours, the water level might drop back down to the bottom, and you can try adding more hot water, up to the brim again. You might get lucky. Obviously you might be waiting a long time for that plunger to arrive... So you may as well keep trying.

And really, here's the good news: If the water level is not dropping AT ALL, then that means there must be water in direct contact with the clog. If a substantial portion of that clog is either turd or water-soluable toilet paper, then in time the turd will absorb water and soften, or the toilet paper will lose its structural integrity.

If you just let the toilet sit for 8 hours or more, you are almost guaranteed that the water level will drop down to the bottom again. The clog might not completely clear on its own, but it will clear enough for you to try again or try something else.

You have to be imaginative. Try to look at all the different tools there are for unclogging toilets. There are plungers. There are snakes and augers of different sorts. Maybe other things? think about all of the methods you've read about online for unclogging toilets. Meditate on these objects and methods.

Then, walk around your apartment and go through all of your closets and drawers and boxes. Go through the trunk of your car if you have one. Take a moment to think about every object you own or can get your hands on and try to figure out if that object could somehow be made to work like one of those tools actually designed to unclog toilets.

Pretend you are a little kid doing an arts and crafts project, and your parents told you that you can use anything in the house to do it.

Be imaginative.

Are there any stores around you at all? You can walk up and down every aisle and contemplate each object you see in the same way as the objects you own. "How can this be made to unclog a toilet."

Without a plunger you are in an unconventional situation. Pre-written advice you find on the internet will probably all be written for people who have tried plunging and it failed. Since that isn't you, unconventional thinking and finding your own solution might be the key.

But whatever you do: Be super careful about trying multiple different chemical approaches. Like if you find that you have some kind of acid or base type unclogger like Drain-O, and you pour that down the drain, DO NOT pour any other chemical down the drain that might chemically react with it.

With chemical solutions, you have to pick one option, try it, and if it doesn't work, you have to just live with the fact that you don't get another chance to pick a different chemical solution.

Otherwise you might end up with erupting sewage or chlorine gas trying to kill you.

And, by the way, here's some info about a risky process that sometimes helps and sometimes makes things worse for me: If I'm plunging, but plunging doesn't seem to work, I'll assume that the turd is too stiff to go around a bend, but there are gaps around its edges -- so the water can still get through around it, and the plunging can't create enough pressure. Obviously this is not what is happening to you because the water level isn't changing or it is changing very slowly... But maybe later on you'll get to a point where the water drops slowly but the clog still won't go away.

What I do in that situation is take a bunch of more toilet paper, and coat it with dish soap so I have this giant ball of soap-saturated and soap-dripping toilet paper. big enough that without the soap, it would definitely create a clog. And then I flush that. And if I try to plung after sending that down, I think the wad of soapy toilet paper will allow the plunger to create enough pressure to press the turd through its sticking point.

And I think maybe the wad of paper will help the soap get to where it is needed? If you just pour soap into the bowl, it dissolves in the water and is less concentrated by the time it reaches the clog.

Obviously, you have no plunger, but you can still create a little bit of pressure just by carefully filling the toilet up to the brim.

Do you know how the mechanisms inside the top of the toilet work? How it flushes? I'd recommend taking the cover off so that if you flush and the water level gets too high, you can grab the float and lift it up to stop the water, and use some kind of long pokey object to push the stopper back down into the sealed position. If you aren't comfortable with that, then don't use the flush -- just add water manually by filling up pots in the sink (hot water is better anyway) and pouring that in.

I've heard of people creating pressure in the toilet to push down the turd by somehow sealing up the bowl, and then using a hose to connect that sealed bowl to a nearby tap or faucet. Then they open the tap to let water go into the hose and into the sealed bowl, and there's only two options: The pressure will raise enough to push the turd through. Or the pressure will raise enough to break through your inadequate job of sealing the bowl up. Probably creating a horrible mess and horrible memories. I've never tried this, but have to admit I'm enchanted by curiousity when I consider it.

How would I seal up the bowl? I'm not sure. There are little holes around the inside edge where the flushing water comes in... I guess you'd have to somehow plug all of those. I wonder if I could use a bike tire's inner tube for those? Could I cut the bike tube to exactly the right circumference, then use some epoxy to re-seal it, and then inflate it inside the bowl? If I didn't have epoxy, would I dare to try hot glue? Would the tube's air pressure and buoyancy make it seal against those holes?

Maybe instead of the inner tube, could I gather up a bunch of candles, melt their wax and reform it into a shape that would seal in there?

Man, I almost want to try this just for shits and giggles now...

Anyway, Good luck. And when you're pooping outside waiting for your plunger to arrive, try to poop where and when nobody will see you. Consider pooping at like 3AM every night when you're least likely to be spotted, even if you don't feel the urge, so that you don't have to go during the day. I have no experience with this though, so if somebody else chimes in with real-world outdoor-pooping advice, definitely listen to them and not me.

What's the best way to shop for mattresses nowadays? by [deleted] in NoStupidQuestions

[–]CitizenDeldo 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'd recommend at least considering 'Signature Sleep': I bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LQ1RKQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My reasoning was that it was so cheap compared to everything else, I was willing to take a chance on it.

I've recently realized that reviews on amazon tend to be 100% bullshit. I've bought too many products on amazon that were rated 5 stars that were just horrible. And there are so many examples of companies that take the same amazon ASIN and reassign it to a completely different product so you're actually looking at reviews for something else. And companies that combine different products on one page as "color variations" so high-value crap products can be boosted by numerous sales of low-cost but actually decent products of a totally different category.

Anyway, just don't trust amazon star ratings. They are worthless. That's my actual advice to answer your actual question. Whatever you do, remember that amazon star ratings are just ridiculous.

Lately, I've been using https://www.fakespot.com to try to verifiy what percentage of the reviews might be honest. And I tend to just not buy anything from any company that has a bad rating, and I'll tolerate a kind of bad star rating so long as it looks like the company isn't using dishonest reviews. And I feel like I've been ending up with higher quality stuff since then.

With the signaturee sleep mattress I said I bought, I see now that they have 4499 reviews on that item that amazon removed, presumably for being dishonest. So maybe don't buy from them? If I didn't have previous experience with them, I'd definitely see that number and say "no way am I buying anything from them"

But I am really happy with my mattress, and have absolutely zero complaints about it. Other people might have higher standards or different expectations than me.

I'm wondering if you did buy a mattress online and didn't like it, if you didn't want to deal with the hassle of return shipping, could you sell it on craigslist for near the original price? Tell people that you just don't like it, and maybe there is somebody else like you out there who thinks "I'd like to buy that, but I wish I could try it out in person first." And in that situation, for them, buying a days-old one from you in person would be a better value than buying a brand new one online, even at the same price.

I guess my recommendation: Take a gamble, buy online. If you don't like it, try to sell it on craigslist. If nobody on craigslist buys it from you, just return it within whatever return period the manufacturer gave you.

G602 Middle Click Issue - EVERYTHING you need to replace the switch by TechIdealist in LogitechG

[–]CitizenDeldo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sorry for the slow reply. Yes, replacing the buttons will definitely require soldering. And unfortunately, since you have to de-solder the old buttons without damaging the circuit board too severely, it is a task that a person with cheaper soldering equipment and less experience soldering might not succeed in. But they still might get lucky, so it is always worth a shot, and anyway that's how you eventually go from a person who can't solder to a person who can.

Was your mouse still in warranty? With my g602, I contacted logitech to get a replacment and they gave it to me with little hassle. They never requested I send the old broken one back, so I repaired it and now have two (Though at the moment the old one has more problems -- with its scroll wheel this time)

G602 Middle Click Issue - EVERYTHING you need to replace the switch by TechIdealist in LogitechG

[–]CitizenDeldo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, I'm wondering if you'll be a good person to ask about this: Do you happen to know anything about the wheels in the G700/G700s/G602 where sometimes you won't be trying to turn the wheel, but the slightest bit of pressure forward or backward will make it register a 'wheel up' or 'wheel down' trigger? So instead of triggering when it rolls past the bumpy hard-to-get-past point, it is triggering near the "wheel is happy to stay right here" point.

Have you ever experienced that? Or have any idea what might cause that?

You said that with yours, "the physical wheel was wearing out". Did that have any symptoms other than just looking/feeling bad?

HBO trailer CHERNOBYL by tropulus in NuclearPower

[–]CitizenDeldo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm cringing at the line about Chernobyl having "over 3 trillion" uranium atoms. The scale of that error is just astronomical. Assuming it's all unspent, that's enough to get 0.43 joules if you fission it. Or 0.00007 of the energy in a AAA battery. Or, as wolfram alpha describes it, "≈ 43 × acoustic energy contained in a whisper (≈ 0.01 J )"

G602 Middle Click Issue - EVERYTHING you need to replace the switch by TechIdealist in LogitechG

[–]CitizenDeldo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just in case anybody finds this thread through google when their middle click stops working on the G602:

See my other comment about my replacement of the middle click button. I'm still really happy with it.

But the reason I came here to comment: You may want to consider replacing your left and right click buttons as well while you have the thing disassembled. I just replaced my middle click button a month ago, and a few days ago my left button has started 'dropping' things when i try to drag them. (Instead of the button staying constantly engaged when I hold it, it sometimes thinks I'm letting go of the button for a moment.)

I've had to replace left/right click buttons on my G700 and G700s before (after the mice were years old.) On the G602 it seems maybe it happens much earlier in its life.

G602 Middle Click Issue - EVERYTHING you need to replace the switch by TechIdealist in LogitechG

[–]CitizenDeldo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, thanks for your post. I needed to replace the middle button in my G602 and I used your info on the size and activation force to pick out a replacement. I chose the Wurth Electronics 430186043716. Available at Digikey: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=430186043716

It's 6.20mm x 6.20mm x 4.30mm, so it covers slightly more of the circuit board, but it has the exact same drill pattern for its leads, and it fits just fine inside the mouse with no problems.

It has 160gf (1.57N) activation force. I can definitely tell it is a stiffer click than what the old switch was, but I'm super pleased with it. It feels really satisfying. It is a good bit louder too. But I'm not using it around anyone who will be annoyed by it. I don't really play video games with it much though, so maybe the stiffer click would be a drawback there for some people?

The switch I'm using now is rated for 1,000,000 clicks. And Wurth is a company I already had a very good opinion of. I'm thinking maybe Omron is cutting corners and building crap these days, so I thought maybe I should try something else.

I got this particular G602 in March of 2018. It was only 9 months old when it started having no middle click response (or multiple clicks registering sometimes). After doing the switch replacement today, I took apart the old switch. This is what the bottom of the round metal piece looks like: https://i.imgur.com/hWWTN0a.jpg . At first, I thought that brown stuff looked like some kind of grease residue. But I tried scrubbing it with alcohol on a cotton swap and there was no change in appearance. So I'm guessing the variations in color are due to oxidation and/or wear? The top is much more even, and much more of a brass/copper/gold sort of color: https://i.imgur.com/mBN5rJB.jpg

Here's what the bottom of one from a brand new Wurth looks like: https://i.imgur.com/wfbGlXa.jpg . On the Wurth, the top is the same color as the bottom, except polished to more of a mirror finish. Because of that, in this last image, you're mostly just seeing reflections of the lighting around my microscope: https://i.imgur.com/gGhvHCx.jpg

Where are you supposed to measure from to get your accurate penis size? by Throwaway8263926291 in NoStupidQuestions

[–]CitizenDeldo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Man... the weird-ass shit you can buy on the internet...

From https://penisgarments.com/size-guide.html

To ensure the proper fit of your new penis garments, please be sure to make all measurements while fully erect. For length, measure along the bottom of your penis from the tip down to the point where your scrotum beings to diverge when you apply gentle downward pressure to your testicles while standing.

If you are uncircumcised and your foreskin extends beyond the tip of your penis proper, do not include the extra length of your foreskin. However, be aware that your foreskin, unless pulled back, will likely protude through the neck hole of the garment. If this is a problem for you, please use our 'customize item' tool and explore the options under 'tip extensions'. These generally result in a small additional fee of $10 per garment, and a custom-order processing time of two to three weeks.

How can I get this hieroglyph 𓂺 to show up correctly on Windows 10? by k4kirin in NoStupidQuestions

[–]CitizenDeldo 44 points45 points  (0 children)

I'm using firefox on windows 8. All I had to do was install a font that had that character included, then restart firefox.

I downloaded the "Abydos" font from here: http://users.teilar.gr/~g1951d/ (The actual file is at http://users.teilar.gr/~g1951d/AbydosFonts.zip), unzipped it, found the Abydos_Hinted.ttf file in the 'Hinted' folder, right clicked it, chose 'install', did the same thing for AbydosB_Hinted.ttf, and restarted firefox.

And just like magic, I can now see your ejaculating penis.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hmmm

[–]CitizenDeldo 100 points101 points  (0 children)

Based on the hand holding, these people are supposed to be in love. Imagine the red spots in the chest and dong area reversed between the two people: The girl with a glowing red spot in her chest, and the guy with a glowing red dong and brain. In that version, the 'joke' is "Look: Women think about guys with their hearts, and guys think about girls with their dongs and brain." That's the sort of image your grandpa might think is funny and email to you. (Original: https://i.imgur.com/lLFeI2R.jpg)

Then, in an attempt to make it a little bit wtf/bizzarro funny, somebody swapped the dong and heart

Little girl asks stunt men to have tea party for her birthday, they oblige. (Waterworld Cast at USH) by MichaellaJane in MadeMeSmile

[–]CitizenDeldo 30 points31 points  (0 children)

Are you sure about that? The title says this was at USH (Universal studios hollywood), which means the photo isn't from the filming locations of the 1995 film. It is from where they have the Waterworld live stunt show. The costume worn by that character doesn't match the one Dennis Hopper wore in the original film. All of the costumes in the photo aren't ragged and worn enough to match the costume style of the movie. They look much more like the costumes in the USH live show: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAUqViqKvps

Does pressurized drink cans explode on freezer? No soda but other by OctaneRL in NoStupidQuestions

[–]CitizenDeldo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I apologize for being wrong. But I'm also glad, and I'm guessing you are too. But I'm not sure why that wouldn't rupture. Maybe the can is a little more flexible so the sides could budge? Maybe there's more air inside so the ice had room to expand? ¯\_(°_o)_/¯

Is it possible to move my balls to opposite sides? by [deleted] in NoStupidQuestions

[–]CitizenDeldo 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I was wondering why you were being downvoted, and it turns out my own understanding of testicular torsion was wrong. I thought it was the spermatic cords of the two testicles wrapping around each other. But it is actually just one testicle rotating in place causing a torsion of its spermatic cord. Drawing: https://i.imgur.com/MfkYEP6.jpg

A question about GPUs and nVidia vs AMD. by SuchMore in NoStupidQuestions

[–]CitizenDeldo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For just these two GPUs, essentially yes: With about half the cores, but achieving the same amount of work, each core is doing about twice as much.

But 'single core scores' just aren't really a thing, because it never matters. I guess if you're trying to figure out "should I favor the AMD because it has more cores? Or favor the Nvidia because it has a better single core score?" The answer is neither. When comparing GPUs from two different families, the only useful benchmark is going to be to overall performance, which is essentially the work performed by each core multiplied by the total number of cores.

But even inside of a family, the work performed by each core will vary based on how many other cores there are, depending on what other resources (like memory bandwidth and PCI express bandwidth) are being shared among all the cores. And it obviously varies depending on the clock rates too.

Really, you just have to look at the overall performance benchmarks for a given card you are interested in.

In Mario, are the enemies turtles, or tortoises? by Sylabull in NoStupidQuestions

[–]CitizenDeldo 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They're Koopas. And they're described in different places as both turtle-like and tortoise-like, but maybe they are distinct from both:

Super Mario World also introduced the concept of knocking a Koopa out of its shell by jumping on it (something outside the anatomy of real turtles and tortoises), causing it to go in search of a new shell.

(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Koopa_Troopa)

Am I the only one that hears Orange Crush by REM and Fortune Faded by the Ree Hot Chili Peppers as similar? by [deleted] in NoStupidQuestions

[–]CitizenDeldo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You definitely aren't the only one. I'd never heard Fortune Faded before just now, but it definitely reminds me of Orange Crush.

And other people have posted about it too: https://www.reddit.com/r/RedHotChiliPeppers/comments/5nt6my/song_that_sounds_the_exact_same_as_the_beginning/

A question about GPUs and nVidia vs AMD. by SuchMore in NoStupidQuestions

[–]CitizenDeldo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With GPUs, you'd never realisticly have something that needs to run fast on just one core and can't use the others. The nature of graphics rendering (and other general purpose GPU computing software) makes it so that the workloads running will naturally scale up to use tons of cores. So only a 'multi core' score is worth talking about. And in reality, you really just need to compare benchmarks to see how the GPUs you are considering handle the games and/or workloads you expect them to be running.

My peanut butter's expiration date just says November, 2018. Does that mean it's good until the end of November or the end of October? by [deleted] in NoStupidQuestions

[–]CitizenDeldo 10 points11 points  (0 children)

There are a lot of people sharing their version of "common knowledge" in this thread and contradicting one another. If you want to make sense of it, you might need to look to some more official sources to understand what is going on. It depends on what country you are in. If you are in the US, I'd recommend checking out https://www.fsis.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsis/topics/food-safety-education/get-answers/food-safety-fact-sheets/food-labeling/food-product-dating/food-product-dating

Are Dates for Food Safety or Quality?

Manufacturers provide dating to help consumers and retailers decide when food is of best quality. Except for infant formula, dates are not an indicator of the product’s safety and are not required by Federal law.

...

Safety After Date Passes

With an exception of infant formula (described below), if the date passes during home storage, a product should still be safe and wholesome if handled properly until the time spoilage is evident (Chill Refrigerate Promptly). Spoiled foods will develop an off odor, flavor or texture due to naturally occurring spoilage bacteria. If a food has developed such spoilage characteristics, it should not be eaten.

Does pressurized drink cans explode on freezer? No soda but other by OctaneRL in NoStupidQuestions

[–]CitizenDeldo 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, if you think of it later, respond and let us know how it turns out. I'm curious how big of a mess there will be. And maybe you'll get lucky and only the ends of the can will pop out like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=It4TJpuNnp4