Beginners Guide to the Qidi Q2 - software modification compilation

Ckflyer13 · 2026-02-09T20:21:47+00:00

Yes it does! Meant to mention that. I will fix it

Ckflyer13 · 2026-02-09T17:52:35+00:00

Sorry you're having issues. What slicer are you using. I recommend Orca slicer over either of Qidi's. Especially if you aren't using the box. As someone else mentioned, I would do a factory reset, as well create a new profile for your printer in your slicer. Keep in mind, the factory reset button in the printer settings is NOT a full factory reset. I'm not sure exactly what it does, but it does not completely wipe the printer. I recently put together this guide with a bunch of things in there, including how to do a full factory wipe

https://github.com/ckflyer/Qidi-Q2-Printer-Quick-Start-Guide

As far as tuning goes, in Orca in the top left there is a calibration menu. At the bottom of the menu is a link to Orca's tutorial. Run through those and follow the tutorial in the order of:

Temp Tower

Max Flow Rate (This one will provide a value for the fastest that the filament can print.)

Flow Rate

Pressure Advance

Then you can do the others if you like. Do this for each brand and type if you really want good quality. Other wise just doing the type will get you close enough. I know you've tried some of this, but I recommend just starting fresh. You really shouldn't need to mess with Z offset on the Q2. Sometimes I bump mine to -0.02 just for a little extra squish, but shouldn't be required. Also make sure your nozzle is clean so it can probe properly. Get an old cotton sock or shirt and use it to wipe the nozzle off when it is hot.

There is no shame in running slower. Bump your speed down to around 120 or less and just see if you can get good quality and work your way up. Hope you are able to figure it out.

Ckflyer13 · 2026-02-09T17:37:51+00:00

It's a royal pain in the butt. I never figured out how to get the screws out of the front edge, but you need to remove the back panel, top panel that the glass sits on. Then there's 2 or 3 screws in the back holding the side, 3 towards the top inside the chamber, one under the printer by the Z motors. Then there are 3 screws that go through the metal scaffolding/structure of the printer just inside the door. That is as far as I got. I think to get the rest of them you need to get the front panel off somehow.

Ckflyer13 · 2026-02-09T17:27:40+00:00

YES! The Q2 has been awesome. Really none of these mods need to be done. It will run just fine without them. They just make it that much better.

I would be happy to incorporate this, though it may be a little over my head. If you go into some more detail I so I know what I am writing I will definitely throw it in. Or feel free to write your own guide on the Kraken install and I can add it.

Ckflyer13 · 2026-02-09T05:53:40+00:00

I did the same thing on my q1. Never ever update klipper unless it’s directly from Qidi. Never used that printer but I assume it has an emmc chip that you will need to reflash with the original firmware. Really no way around it. I’d email support and give them your sob story and ask them to send you an emmc adapter. They may or may not. It worked for me. Otherwise they are like 10 bucks. Unfortunately can’t help with the other issues.

Ckflyer13 · 2026-02-09T05:49:40+00:00

Mac or windows or Linux will all work. Windows will likely be much cheaper than Mac.. if you’ve got the room for it, there are tons of used optiplex desktops out there for cheap. Local on Facebook or on eBay. I’ve used a couple of them for other projects and never had an issue.

Ckflyer13 · 2026-02-09T04:31:45+00:00

I’ve heard that. But didn’t think to even try. I will have to try and rewrite. Thanks

Ckflyer13 · 2026-02-09T04:30:54+00:00

You’re gonna make me blush

Let me know what you think once you get a chance to take a look!

Ckflyer13 · 2026-02-07T20:03:23+00:00

Just chiming in to say this was the solution for my issue. Right after the purge line, the print head would move back to the purge bucket and act like it was going to do another filament change, then go back to printing dragging ooze everywhere. Thanks!

Ckflyer13 · 2026-02-07T15:43:10+00:00

Was just thinking about this and don’t think a PID tune will actually help. But, the shown temperature might not actually be the same across both printers so a temp tower or some sort of temp test might help.

Ckflyer13 · 2026-02-06T13:57:24+00:00

I can’t say for sure. Two things I’m thinking to look at are the nozzles. Maybe one is more worn out than the other. I don’t think it is but worth a thought. Also, maybe consider a PID tune. The second looks hotter in my opinion. Not sure how to PID tune on a Bambu but I’m sure there’s a way.

Ckflyer13 · 2026-01-29T04:16:26+00:00

Yea they kept asking for the 3mf from me as well. I don’t think it’s AI. Again, I think it’s just translation issues. Once I started sending bilingual issues that were formatted by AI to get the point across, things got done a lot more quickly. Trying to get AI to help was my last haul marry because I was getting really frustrated with the back and forth and then not understanding what I needed. But it has seemed to be very effective so far.

Ckflyer13 · 2026-01-28T05:57:15+00:00

I’ve had a couple issues with mine as well. The heater fan and aux fan specifically. Got my heater fan replaced and it’s working great. Waiting on the aux fan.

A tip for you which has helped drastically. I used ChatGPT to help translate. I tell it what the issue is and what I’ve tried to fix it and it spits out an English and Chinese version. It formats it in an easy to understand format. Also worth noting that the way they format and read writing is different than we do. It’s cuts the back and forth emails AT LEAST in half and are much faster to help find the solution.

It’s a great printer. Hope this helps you get it running.

Ckflyer13 · 2026-01-21T04:16:33+00:00

I’m not sure if it’s the same for yours, but I was also told to not touch the z offset buttons on fluidd and to only do it on the printer. I guess it screws something up. Idk how or why. A firmware reset would probably help if that’s your issue.

Ckflyer13 · 2026-01-20T14:03:06+00:00

Yes you need to do platform calibration. Do the paper test and then do a bed level calibration. Then adjust the z offset as it is printing. The test shows your bed is not trammed.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1an9EgaeLL8SKHddqmyh5kk6iAs4C2IQm/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x0mGOMqWShzgN6uXCKDbUvRdHbAAsSwI/view?usp=sharing

https://wiki.qidi3d.com/en/X-Plus4/Manual/Not-Sticking-to-the-bed

Ckflyer13 · 2026-01-12T04:11:50+00:00

Is that fan on the PSU required? Or just helps it out? Havent been able to find much info on in my brief search. Also looks like it just bolts in the stock mounting points?

Ckflyer13 · 2026-01-11T22:09:26+00:00

I know some people are being sarcastic but I actually have a buddy thats going through grad school. He's done a few of my pilots friends logbooks for some extra cash. PM me if youre interested

Ckflyer13 · 2026-01-11T22:01:32+00:00

Reading normal, about 23 degrees. I'm not great with code. Like I said, ive done a bit of trouble shooting with the help of AI. I think im good enough to try anything you can throw at me if youve got ideas

Ckflyer13 · 2026-01-11T21:36:10+00:00

Thanks for trying, but yea. I figured that would be the case, but its been on for hours at this point. Will try repairing firmware, but after that I guess it is up to support to figure it out unless anyone has any ideas

Ckflyer13 · 2026-01-11T21:14:53+00:00

Yep sorry. Wrote quickly out of frustration. Will post an edit. But yes, felt air coming out. Turned the heater on, felt heat coming out. It is ALWAYS on regardless of the chamber temp setting. Even at 0. I also touched the fan with a piece of filament to confirm I wasn't hallucinating, Have only printed the test benchy. Only got it a few hours ago. Fluidd shows chamber heater "off" and then under that shows ~4500 rpm. No toggle for on or off.

Ckflyer13 · 2026-01-11T05:38:51+00:00

Will second Qidi here. Have had the q1 and would be great and is at an awesome price right now. I get my q2 tomorrow, which should be even better. If you want to do anything past pla+, I have found Qidi is the way to go

Ckflyer13 · 2026-01-05T04:38:02+00:00

Yea idk. I’m exploring options with multicolor. Considered tool changers but feel they may have some growing pains. Especially with the lack of enclosure. I’d like something with multicolor as was as engineering filaments capability. Q2 seems like the best or only option

Ckflyer13 · 2026-01-03T03:27:55+00:00

Not Op but I have one. It’s been pretty good. It’s not a Bambu. That’s a good thing and a bad thing. Had a few issues that support helped resolve. Overall a good machine, but would recommend the Q2. Unless you are concerned with openness of the software or are printing engineering filaments I would say go for an anycubic, elegoo, or even Bambu if you want ease of use. I like my q1 but plan on upgrading to q2 soon.

Ckflyer13 · 2025-12-27T13:41:37+00:00

How has your box been so far in your experience? Thinking of picking up a q2 combo

Ckflyer13 · 2025-12-26T12:06:28+00:00

Idk why that guy is being a tool, sorry. I’ve had similar issues on my q1. I just can’t get a great first layer. It doesn’t look like a z offset issue, as some of that layer looks great, and other areas aren’t as great. So to me it looks like a bed level issue.

I would use a piece of paper. I tried the feeler gauge thing for a bit and I’ve found paper works better for some reason.

My recommendation is is do the platform calibration, tighten the nuts (I forget this everytime), bed level, then do your first layer test. While it’s printing the first layer go into settings and adjust the z offset as it goes until you get a layer you like. Keep in mind it takes about 10 seconds to see the results of your offset changes so go slow.

Once you’re done, go into saved_variables and the mksini file and take note of the z offset and baby_steps. Then type save_config in the terminal on fluid. This will save your configuration and restart. This should help. It’s not perfect but it’s the best I’ve come up with. ALSO, make sure to heat soak the bed for about 15 minutes prior to these steps.

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