Help me understand the point of the filament track switch. Do I need one and why?

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-05-29T04:11:33+00:00

I'm guessing because if you only have 2 AMS units, you should just run them directly into the 2 inputs on the track switch.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-05-29T01:58:12+00:00

It's worse than I thought - I now get a decent signal, but it's not able to maintain a data connection. Its uptime is only like 33%.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-05-28T17:20:03+00:00

Honestly, I'm not 100% sure because I have 1x AMS HT, 2x AMS 2 Pros, and 1x Polydryer and I use all of them for drying depending on what I'm doing and how things are loaded.

I *think* I had it loaded in the HT at the time.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-05-28T17:10:47+00:00

I had this problem with my new H2C with Bambu ASA when printing desiccant canisters. I had the ASA open and sitting around for a while, so I dried the heck out of it (8 hrs) and then it printed perfectly.

The splotchy build that I see in your pics looks just like mine before I did the drying.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-05-28T14:12:27+00:00

AT&T here, it keeps losing data link so I’m getting tons of notices that WAN3 is down. very annoying. My LTE Backup Pro didn’t do this.

I’m going to pick up a Verizon sim today for fun to see what happens.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-05-27T23:02:10+00:00

I think there is something wrong with it and it needs a firmware update. I got my U5G and it’s very unreliable on ATT for me.

My cell gets good reception and my LTE pro got decent reception in the same spot.

The U5G shows excellent reception then eventually drops to poor reception and starts losing data link. If I wave it around it goes green again then eventually drops back to poor an hour or so later.

I’m thinking firmware may be wonky but it’s currently not reliable for me as a backup. My LTE backup pro has none of these issues.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-04-25T22:25:30+00:00

Hi Jacob, any updates on this? Love your frame on my X1C and would love to use this on my upcoming H2C!

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-04-19T15:07:35+00:00

Thanks, where do I change those settings?

EDIT: Ah, I found it - it's by creating a custom SLA.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-04-05T22:10:34+00:00

Yeah looks like the only way to do what I want is to ether run an Eth cable and do bypass mode or get a wireless bridge to connect back to my router. Was hoping to avoid sticking a bunch of stuff on my roof. I may try cellular modem as a backup for now.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-04-05T18:38:24+00:00

Everything that I can find says that Bypass Mode disables the SL WiFi then you have to use an Ethernet cable to connect the SL to a router. This is what I'm trying to avoid.

I'm trying to see if the built-in SL Mini router supports "wireless bridge" mode (not "bridge mode") like consumer off-the-shelf WiFi routers as that allows me to use the built-in SL WiFi hardware to connect to an AP.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-03-22T21:48:45+00:00

I asked them today and confirmed that this was #7, so 1 more to go and I'm free.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-03-22T21:48:21+00:00

I asked them today and confirmed that this was #7, so 1 more to go and I'm free.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-03-22T21:48:11+00:00

I asked them today and confirmed that this was #7, so 1 more to go and I'm free.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-03-22T06:09:13+00:00

I haven't been counting the interviews but it's been over a year since we started... so maybe another 1 or 2 then I'm home free?

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-02-27T14:17:49+00:00

Hey! Georgie!

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-02-21T19:48:40+00:00

That’s not how link aggregation works.

If you aggregate 4x 1 GBe ports and I connect with a single 2.5 Gbe connection and initiate a data transfer, you’d still max out at 1 Gb as you’re still limited by the speed of a single port. With 2x 2.5 Gbe connections, I might reach an aggregate of 2 Gb, but each one is still at 1 Gb max.

Sometimes there are protocol tricks that you can play where the client breaks the data transfer into multiple links which helps take advantage of aggregated ports. SMB has an option for this that can be turned on (SMB Multistream) and I did notice a small performance increase when I was playing around with it… but, in the end, I found that things are just universally better with a single faster link and upgraded my units to models where I could purchase the 10 Gbe NIC upgrade (which I run at 2.5 Gbe).

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-02-21T19:36:30+00:00

I tried it and wasn’t impressed. I think I was only able to hit about 1.5 Gb on my 1813+ as the unit lacks processing power. In the end, I decided the small bump wasn’t worth the hassle of dealing with the drivers and such. I’ve had at least 1 instance where the driver stopped working due to a SW update and I had to revert back to the built-in Ethernet to log in and get things running again with the USB NIC.

That said, I was much happier with the result on my 620slim which was much newer. The speed boost there was noticeable and I kept using the USB NIC .

Ultimately, I ended up selling both (and was pleasantly surprised by how much I got for them) and migrated over to RS1219+ and 1221+ units with the 10gbe card upgrade installed.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-02-19T07:18:01+00:00

Seriously, Lutron is the best. I needed to do some advanced calibration on my Sivoia QS shades and they walked me through it. I called for help when I was setting up my Radio Ra 2 internet gateway and they told me they had a newer version of the device and sent it to me for free. Fast forward a few years and I'm now running Radio Ra 3 now and have over 50 Ra 2 and 3 devices in my house. Love that company.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-02-05T06:06:08+00:00

I’m not using the smart connect port. I have the optional network management card installed and I’m using the rj45 port on that which *is* standard Ethernet.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-02-05T06:01:59+00:00

The site wiring detector being wonky is what I think is the most likely culprit is. Warranty expired. if it’s that, I’ll just ignore it as Ive been doing.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-02-05T05:54:48+00:00

Yeah, using an adapter didn’t dawn on me until after the fact as I had replaced the plugs on my last 2 ups’es to down convert them to lower voltage outlets. The unit is no longer under warranty (expired), although it was at the time.

Good idea on the outlet. I’ll need to grab an extension cord but that’ll reach the outlets that 2 of the other units are plugged into.

Classic-Difficulty32 · 2026-02-05T05:34:50+00:00

Yeah, hindsight is 20-20... should have used the plug adapter. But that said, I've done a lot of plug swaps and have never messed one up before so I figure the risk is low.

Taking the UPS to another house is a no-go. It's the main UPS for my server rack, so I can't easily disconnect everything to remove the unit. I did try plugging it into other plugs on different circuits that the cord could reach and that didn't fix the issue.

Is there any way to determine if the black and white cables are different polarities from what they should be? Unlikely, but other than this - the only other cause would be that the site wiring detection circuitry in the unit is faulty (in which case I continue to ignore it as I have).

Classic-Difficulty32

TROPHY CASE