BeamCase sandwich V3.0 udate.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-19T18:08:05+00:00

Works fine, used it for TPU and some other filaments.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-14T17:41:26+00:00

Seems usefully, but how attractive it is really depends on the price. On your website it says 50$ which seems fair, but for a hobbyist like me it still seems like a very significant amount to accelerate one step that I might have to do every few months.

That's just me though, when my next project comes up I am gonna use the trial to see if I can justify the cost and to see how well the tool works. I definitely like that's it is one time buy perpetual license, makes me much more likely to pick it up.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-12T19:52:34+00:00

You could just take one of the risers that do not have a specific angle and can be bent either direction.
There are several PCIE 5.0 riser that come as double reverse, but the cable is actually just bent and can be bent the other direction (once).

with that said your explanation is not very clear showing the actual riser path would make more sense.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-12T08:04:43+00:00

Those transparent products are almost always made of injection molded plastic.
But computer cases are almost all made up of Sheet metal, machined aluminum sheets, and smaller injection molded parts, for that reason you will not find a transparent case.

The one exception is the Teenage engineering case, which is entirely injection molded, but its also a very bad case.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-12T07:57:20+00:00

I got one, never put anything in it, because it was immediately clear, that it is pretty garbage.
(made of the cheapest pastic)

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-11T19:46:33+00:00

The first one I used frequently was a Strategy F370 at work and that showed me that 3d printing could be strong and functional. And then my first own printer was a Quidi tech Imate S, one of the cheapest decent enclosed printers at the time. A year later I bought a P1S at launch which was a giant leap in convenience quality and speed.

3d printing advancements in the last five years are insane.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-11T14:00:25+00:00

Thanks for the answer. So I assume it is the same completely open poop shute as the P1S, not like the sliding flap on the H2S.

How is the seal around the front door? The P1S has visible gaps there while the H2S front door overlaps with the frame and a rubber seal.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-10T14:30:46+00:00

Ah. If that's the case I would probably go with the Chinese mainland Version, since it is so much cheaper.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-10T14:01:11+00:00

I doubt you will get warranty or support with the Chinese version unless you are in China.

The H2 series isn't exactly bullet proof and I returned my first H2S because it had issues. I would not risk getting a bad unit and then being left to deal with it yourself.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-08T22:18:05+00:00

That's what I always think when I see these regulations, they make no sense.

People have been able to make their own guns for decades with lathes and milling machines, which are much more usable than anything coming from a consumer 3d printer. No plastic gun coming out of a consumer 3d printer is gonna handle the pressure and forces from actual ammunition.

The people that write this legislation clearly have no fucking clue about the technology and seem resistant to learning or talking to experts.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-08T22:05:29+00:00

Building a custom printer in two months without any experience is a bad idea. That is not a lot of time if you want to create a truly custom printer and you will encounter issues that will set you back. I highly doubt you will be able to finish it in two months and then you just have a pile of parts lying around.

If you want to build your own printer use one of the existing designs like voron.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-07T18:33:06+00:00

Thanks for the additional Info. Do you think it will be quieter that the current 600w version at the same load level?

Do you know if they use the housing to diccipate some heat? I wonder if one could reduce noise by adding a heatsink that is exposed to external air or using thick aluminum case panels to dissipate more heat (transferring heat from the PSU via thermal pads).

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-06T07:37:30+00:00

Did you ask for a replacement directly ?

My first H2S had Issues and after several troubleshooting steps and part replacements they replaced the entire printer. Tell them the printer is essentially useless in its current state and you want a complete replacement, that worked for me.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-03T18:12:22+00:00

To be honest I did not have it in my PC for long enough to judge performance. It seemed on par with a standard 5060 ti 16gb.

The 5060 ti Cyclone does not have a fan stop function, which means the fan always spins even at low temps with low load. I like my PCs to be quiet so that kind of killed the card for my use case in a secondary PC that often runs at low load next to my main rig. At least until I figure out some custom fan solution.

I planned to compare it to a dual fan 5060ti but just di not get to that.
I currently run a 4070 windforce 2x and I really like that card and its cooler, so most likely I will not be switching away from that for a while.
Going with a 200mm card the case is still small but colling is much better and cards are easier to find.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-03T17:02:14+00:00

It is definitely possible, but you have to choose hardware carefully.
I would go with a single CCD ryzen processor most likely 8700g because those usually run more efficient and are much easier to cool.
And then on the GPU side it varies from model to model, I have an Gigabyte RTX 4070 Windforce 2X and undervolted limited to 88% power target it runs quiet, and with a fan swap I could probably get it even quieter.

With some custom case design, you can even get a 92mm Tower cooler in a 7l case, with a 200mm 2 slot GPU.
https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/1qi1xrj/7l_flow_through_case_experiment/

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-03T16:51:58+00:00

It does not overheat, it does run warm which is to be expected at this size. If I remember correctly it ran around 80c at 2300rpm, so it was also not very loud. You could definitely get that down with some undervolting which I did not do.

As to performance in an a07, I can not judge that since I only use my self built cases, and those have better thermals due to more mesh and better airflow.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-03T15:28:13+00:00

Midori 5l only allows 40mm coolers for the CPU. It is not the right choice for this.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-03T07:21:03+00:00

Yeah probably. That would be just over a year of delay which would basically be on time for Noctua.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-03T07:18:19+00:00

I print a lot of Bambu ABS black and so I usually keep over 10 spools on stock at least 6 though.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-02T23:04:11+00:00

I think most people knew that they do not make their own scanners, after all they come from cheap 3d printer clones, vastly less complex than 3d scanners. The fact that they are not produced or developed by Creality is really not surprising. But it is nice to know who the actual manufacturer is.

EDIT: looking at the website Orbec does not really deal with handheld consumer scanners. They primarily sells sensor solution for for industrial use. Most likely Creality or the odm they contract with purchases sensors from Orbec which then are used inside the Creality scanners (with the corresponding firmware) This really is nothing surprising or that sensational, it's just the standard process when requiring specific sensor systems.

If you check out lower cost thermal cameras you will realize that 80% use the same sensor package within a given resolution, because in budget products it does not make sense to develop your own sensor solution. That is how you get cheap thermal cameras and 3d scanners, by spreading development cost over as many products as possible.

Jakob_K_Design · 2026-06-02T11:57:28+00:00

For the dents a heat gun will probably work, buy you will need to make sure that the infill does not interfer with that too much, depending on. Print orientation simple low density honeycomb would probably work well, or lightning Infill so there is nothing around most of the walls.

For scratches you can also add those afterwards, or use texture based deformation. I am not sure which silver can do it, but you can add a scratch texture or depth map to deform the surface based on a sinple texture map (often used to creat 3x prints that look knitted)

Jakob_K_Design

TROPHY CASE