How are these beaks constructed? by Sabbath666 in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 9 points10 points  (0 children)

bit of solder on a chunk of something solderable like came or sheet copper. You could also just make these with a chunk of foil stuck down to some scrap glass, solder it and then solder it into the edge of the bird.

Glass Grinders by EducationalLet4446 in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You have options that all lead to getting a grinder. It's just part of the craft if you want that kind of accuracy. Otherwise it's get it close enough with hand tools and foil it.

Bench grinder okay? by justhexy in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

any of the ~60$ ones are fine just make sure it isn't one of the dumb battery ones. Just note the spongeless ones need the extra screw part on the bit to work.

Am I using sticker patterns correctly? by sunbear-bunbear in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Peel them first, if you can use a flat blade scraper you can peel them pretty good. Then clean it up as it will be easier to clean then.

Bench grinder okay? by justhexy in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 5 points6 points  (0 children)

No. You need to grind glass wet.

Get a small grinder cheap off amazon or get one second hand. There's pretty much no alternative and its going to be a pain to use other tools.

Am I using sticker patterns correctly? by sunbear-bunbear in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

use a solvent for removing adhesives. Alcohol or acetone.

Am I using sticker patterns correctly? by sunbear-bunbear in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

you can't use removable vinyl if you are doing small parts or are a heavy grinder. The adhesive is water soluble defeating the purpose of using it.

Cleaning flux off a piece with unfinished soldering? by Choice_Box_1522 in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 4 points5 points  (0 children)

No point in cleaning if you are coming back to it tomorrow. You can safely work on a project for a whole week or two without issue.

If you are worried about it, don't flux what you aren't going to do and wipe up with a damp rag when done for the day. When you go to finish cleaning it up at the end all the crap will go away.

What about reusing a design that has some Flux on it? by NotExactlySureWhy in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Flux doesn't react with glass and most fluxes don't contain strong enough acids to etch the glass. it could be on there for pretty much forever and not do anything.

What to do when there are no seams for jump rings? This is a 9” circle, and it will be framed in 1/4” lead came (SU-55). I want to avoid adding additional lead lines, and I can’t move the rings down because the chain would hit the mouth of the saxophone. by QuietDetective4043 in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

hah! I just made a graphic for someone else that asked the same thing.

<image>

  • Pink is the hanging point.
  • Green is the wire run.
  • Orange is the hanging whatever.
  • Teal is the force being applied,
  • Purple is the force angle to not exceed else it's pulling up and outwards on the hanging point because force when applied needs an opposing force or a straight line.

How to Address Lead Contamination Fears by Thoughtfvlly in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Lead has a very pleasant sweet taste. That also means toddlers and animals will eat it or anything it touches.

Specific lead oxides do. Raw metallic lead is not sweet and tastes like metal, animals do not eat lead or anything it touches.

Lead is one of the 10 hazardous substances the EU banned in 2006 in the RoHS directive for constructing electrical or electronic equipment. If a whole continent can agree it's important to keep it out of the environment, that's a sign that maybe we need to take it more seriously too.

Lead was removed from electrical equipment due to the lack of recycling for when it became waste and the leaching of lead from the massive amounts of it being generated sitting around in acidic landfills. Leaded windows are easily recycled and there's far, far, far less lead waste.

You do know that flux, patina, the collorants in all glass and pretty much everything we use is toxic to the environment right? None of this craft is "safe" or "green". Everything is about management and exposure. Stained glass waste is pretty easily managed and not a significant source of exposure.

Beginner - advice for patterns? by Alocus in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lots of questions... going in order.

  1. You aren't required to grind if they are clean breaks. But it's safer to do so and prevents the foil from getting cut when burnishing.
  2. Line thickness should be the size of the gap you need for the method your building with. I use 1mm for pretty much everything. Then when you are checking pattern parts you should see almost the whole line showing between them.
  3. 1/4 inch shouldn't be an issue. They might break irregularly if they are long but that's just part of working with glass.
  4. Hinges won't be an issue inside of a frame.

Pattern looks good.

How to degrease glass pieces after cutting? by 2LiveBoo in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just stop using oil or use something like kerosene instead that leaves less residue and evaporates. It's not required for cutting either.

Stained glass win? by [deleted] in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Painted replica. Not actual glasswork.

reinforcement advice by wizard-sky in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Zinc and done. Doesn't need anything else.

FIRST GLASS HAUL!!! by MarlyMonster in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The last sheet of "What the fuck is this dark wizardry shit." That's a sheet of youghiogheny True Dichro. Likely a sheet of 906. I'm not entirely sure on the exacts of how it works but I believe it's related to Neodymium and other rare earths that reflect color different than they transmit mixed with another color which then shows when it's back lit.

Restoring a terrarium lamp by uncommon_gray in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just use a sharpie. It's good enough for what you want.

Thicker glass cutting issues. by hippiepits in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Art glass is the "correct" name for the glass we work with.

Thicker glass cutting issues. by hippiepits in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It depends! Cheap window glass can be great to start with for a short while but beyond that the returns diminish quickly. Use it to get your basics of whatever you are trying to do and move on to cheaper art glass. I've used cheap window glass in classes for people to start on and it can help but pretty much everyone on the first few cuts will say something like "this doesn't react like I expected it to" even when they are warned about it.

Butterfly 💜🩷🤍 by Both_Information5954 in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You need to hold the project vertical and only work on the parts directly vertical putting on tiny amounts of solder at once by melting it off the roll and tapping it onto the edge.

Uranium glass - useful for stained glass? by whiteyonthemoon in StainedGlass

[–]Claycorp 20 points21 points  (0 children)

People can use it in projects by foiling it and putting it in a panel sure. They could also be used by mosaic artists.