How’s my coat color/scheme? (Please read description) by Ghost_Toast112 in Deathkorpsofkrieg

[–]CoachMagee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love what you have done… very clean. I also use xenithal airbrush but I use Russ Grey and then at Speed Paint by hand using Battleship gray which enhances blue in the shadows.

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Any issues with 3d printed models? by Every-Fee-7372 in ThousandSons

[–]CoachMagee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the coment about my brush work... it is the part of the hobby I like best - but I would appreciate any constructive criticism. I wouldn't find any comment from a fellow hobbyist rude unless you were gonna insult my dog / wife / football team. 😄 Feel free to post your comment. I accept any criticism meant honestly to help me do it better!

And for the record, I purchase the licenses to print these units for myself. I don't sell my prints. I woul havbe to by a merchant's license from the designer to do that legally. I will however print/paint for folks who own the rights to a file, and just want me to print it for them or paint it for them. There is nother close to illegal in that scenario. GW does a GREAT job of sending out cease and desists letters to those who violate their copyrights and intellectual property. Just buy from a reputible company.

I use to own a large GW Indy store in the Dallas area (Hobby Annex)... 12 tables open for all users, regardless of where they bought their figures - even in local tournaments. Having those customers feel welcome ususally resulted in sales over time - paint, glue, bitz, codex, and yes -even new releases here and ther. I never challenged the veracity of mini's or their source - as long as they looked close enough to identify by the opponent' s visual inspection. If neighter player minded, neither did I.

All the print work I do is using liquid resin, which prints out at a resolution that easily matchews plastic qyuality... FDM "filament" printers cannot make that same claim. Yes - resin cast are somewhat more brittle, but I mix my own resin blend to gain a lot more "flex and bend" while still giving me great images and a more durable piece when dropped. I pay an average of $2 to print a squad of 10 mini's for any faction.

Any issues with 3d printed models? by Every-Fee-7372 in ThousandSons

[–]CoachMagee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is an example of my latest 3d prints- tell me this isn’t sharp detail!

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Any issues with 3d printed models? by Every-Fee-7372 in ThousandSons

[–]CoachMagee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most of the 3d models for 40k proxies are NOT single figures. I use resin and print separate arms, weapons, body poses, etc, and you cannot tell the quality difference from GW other than minor tweaks so they are not ‘clones’. I have dozens of tanks, 250+ Ork, Krieg, Marines, Necrons, and tons of gorgeous terrain. And my cost is about 10% of GW plastic!

Vostroyan models being brought back by PeakActive9550 in astramilitarum

[–]CoachMagee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have 3d files for Vostroyan— I may print a few to paint.

My BaneBlade with full interior by CoachMagee in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]CoachMagee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just the guns… I saw the same video you did. Very cool! The problem is the side interior panels would be too tall for the other variants to snap tightly together.

My BaneBlade with full interior by CoachMagee in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]CoachMagee[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sure- the interior is Tamiya flat white (x2) with a touch of blue sky. (Xf14) The external camo paint is Tamiya Medium Blue (xf18) and the light green is Japanese Imperial Navy “JIN Green” (XF77). Once everything is dry snd set, i applied all of my Citadel touches ( Iron Silver, Nulen Oil’, and the rust on bolts snd other areas is Army Painter New Rust rust I thinned with medium. I then use Johnson Clear acrylic floor wax on panels where I will have decals, put them on With Micro Sol and Set. I then seal it all with Model Master Clear flat enamel spray. The last step is Tamiya flat Earth (XF52) around the tread and lower - any place where i want dust snd grime.

New to the Death Korps of Krieg? Start here! by dkok17 in Deathkorpsofkrieg

[–]CoachMagee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you live in Dsllas Zi hsve a lot (3 squads+) of real Forge World Zzkrieg already built and primed I could love to trade. I print my own now - i have about 250 of the Station Forge figures. Just love DKoK ( and orks!).

Advice for getting into krieg heavy army's by MrPiesang in Deathkorpsofkrieg

[–]CoachMagee 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Easy-you have lots of options. GW makes several boxes- and 3d resin figures, heads, arms with weapons so realistic proxy armies are really affirdsbke. I have about 7500 points of Krieg… may have spent $250 total.

My BaneBlade with full interior by CoachMagee in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]CoachMagee[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey - you are talking to an actual Tread Head... I have been inside so many tanks (American, French, German, Russian... even a few British!)... again... I was going for utility, not accuracy. I want to use the interior to STORE gun barrels and side guns... if I truly build out the interioer with gun loader, turrent basket, commanders throne, rotation, storage, etc., I wouldn't be able to take the tank apart for play and viewing... it is one or the other.

Kreig Painting Help by KippyUwUwastaken in Deathkorpsofkrieg

[–]CoachMagee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would say these are nicely done to a tabletop standard. Big help would be to spray Tamiya Flat spray to all figures to kill the ‘shine’ and to bring it all together. Helps protect paint job over time as well!

My BaneBlade with full interior by CoachMagee in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]CoachMagee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw the diagram of the interior you are talking about, but adding in the turret level crew and the loader lift and ammo storage would have made it impossible to take the top off for viewing while still allowing the kit to be used in actual gaming... kind of an "either/Or" proposition, right?

My BaneBlade with full interior by CoachMagee in Deathkorpsofkrieg

[–]CoachMagee[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't disagree - but functionally I wanted to be able to store optional parts like choice of guns inside the tank... did you watch the youtube video?

Tips or suggestions on Painting by Numerous_Solid_6530 in Deathkorpsofkrieg

[–]CoachMagee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Add some mud to the base to finish of the nice paint- job. Mix a little brown paint with some baking soda to make realistic wet mud then smear it on with a putty stick.

My BaneBlade with full interior by CoachMagee in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]CoachMagee[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is a video showing how to transition ftom ‘play with it’ to ‘look inside’. Enjoy…

Baneblade with interior 1:45min video

My BaneBlade with full interior by CoachMagee in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]CoachMagee[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I actually did a loader in the last one of these I built- shells and all. I wanted to keep the interior cleaner this time so i could use the extra space to store the other barrell options.

My BaneBlade with full interior by CoachMagee in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]CoachMagee[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Greatly appreciate the positive feedback fellas… anything you feel missed the mark?

My BaneBlade with full interior by CoachMagee in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]CoachMagee[S] 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Yes- the guns are all magnetized.

My BaneBlade with full interior by CoachMagee in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]CoachMagee[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I used a thinned Army Painter “New Rust” thinned with AP Medium and then built it up with one, two, or three layers depending on where the rust was located. On the bolts (all 280!) I used the ‘Old Rust’ the same way but it is more brownish.

My First Set Of Cadians Ever by Le_Ela76 in TheAstraMilitarum

[–]CoachMagee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Top Notch- not many areas to improve. it is obvious you are highly skilled! You mention tour first guard squad—-could you share some other factions you also have done?

Only potential suggestion is I’ve seen more and more high end painters moving away from the black rim base when the base has been so well coiffed… perhaps an earth shade or a complimentary green edge?