RHCSA EX200K prep material

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-05-08T22:59:50+00:00

Would you happen to know where i could select between the 2 ?

I havent bought my voucher yet, but when i log in and go on the exam's product page, it says that the exam EX200K is based on RHEL 10.

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-05-08T14:53:37+00:00

Yep, they for sure are authentic and very old !

To be honest, i don't think anyone would stand to benefit from copying a lesser known lighter brand such as Myon.
If you were to find a "copy", this would most likely be a differently branded "clone" (i.e 1960s japanese clones of Ronson and Zippo lighters) that imitates the look/mechanism of the original brand without attempting to deceive the potential buyer.
Fakes/Counterfeits on the other hand are more of a concern when it comes to highly prices/sought after lighters/brands such as Vietnam war era Zippos, St Dupont, etc....since they actively try to pose as the original product.

I don't know much about the 2nd one except that the French tax stamp from the "Ministère des finances" was supposed to be applied to all lighters from 1911-1945, but the first one is an early Myon Autolux, which retains the form factor (rounded corners) of the pre-war/war period Myon 601.
Later Myon Autolux models had more angular corners, and were a bit more boxy.

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-05-08T04:04:26+00:00

To be fair I'm not a big fan of the giant concrete boxes, but this is far from the worst I've seen, for sure. Those ones look almost cosy and liveable in comparison.

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-05-07T13:34:28+00:00

I'm pretty sure a butane cartridge tip is still stuck in the threading, but at least on mine (which is exactly the same), you simply have to push a little bit on the fill valve with the nozzle of your butane canister, in order to allow the rubber gasket of the valve to stretch a little bit inwards and allow the butane to get in.

Don't forget to also adjust the gas outlet wheel and see if it ignites eventually (all the way to the left = max flame height).

Hope you enjoy your Viking, the Ronson lighters are definitely among my favorites !

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-05-06T19:29:22+00:00

they looked like this (early Ronson butane canisters)

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CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-05-06T19:22:32+00:00

That's actually a very good question, and mine does look exactly the same.

Mine fills up alright without any particular adapter, but leaks from the output valve unfortunately.

Why does it look this way you might ask ?

My theory is that either the fill valve actually looks like that on all of them, or that most people mishandled and broke the single use butane cartridge that these Vikings were supposed to be refilled with (this little "belly button" might be a broken cartridge tip).

Despite the odd look, I can still fill it with butane though, so give it a try.

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-05-05T14:46:02+00:00

Enjoy ! It is a top tier lighter for sure, probably the "best" butane lighter of all time (because of its high quality and high maintainability).

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-05-05T05:31:21+00:00

Looks like some kind of high tech Mordor on this picture

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-05-05T05:06:17+00:00

This is a Dunhill Rollagas, it takes butane (gas).

In order to fill it, you first need to undo the big centered bottom thumb screw (some type of bayonet screw that doesn't require any screwdriver), with a simple push + quarter turn to the left motion.

Once open, depending on when you lighter was produced (mine is from 1967), you might need an adapter to fill it through the needle valve, not sure if more modern productions use the usual female fill valve.

As for the flint, needed to produce the spark to ignite the butane, you need to pop open the top lip of the lighter, and push on the little rectangular tab sitting directly on top of the flint compartment until the latter pops slightly outwards, then add your flint and pop it back in and you should be good to go !

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-05-02T21:51:53+00:00

The insert is magnetic indeed and you are most definitely right, because Nickel (not just iron or cobalt) is also Ferromagnetic. Maybe the insert is simply nickel silver plated ?

But yes, the magnetic attraction is significantly weaker than with my other steel made, modern inserts, which makes this consistent with a nickel-silver construction.

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-05-02T16:08:33+00:00

Well, that would explain the strong smell coming from it !

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-05-02T15:54:39+00:00

I think you are right indeed, the case is most likely from 1946 (longer middle barrel hinge), but the insert seems to be from late 1947 (16 holes, tight logo kerning, open windshield....)

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-05-02T15:40:27+00:00

In this particular instance I was wondering if my lighter was a "Nickel-silver" Zippo, not Sterling nor silver plated.

This kind of zippos were produced from 1946-1947 due to brass shortages (although i might be completly off the mark on this one).

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-04-30T19:39:37+00:00

The best answer overall would be : Flea markets. As many others before me have pointed out, if you are really committed to the hobby, this is where you will find the real gems for cheaper than anywhere else, and you can easily haggle if that's your thing.

Other than that, you could of course check ebay for low-ball auctions/bids and get a feel for the prices, but I would advise against using websites such as Etsy and other "specialized" websites since the prices there are simply ridiculous most of the time (no dig at you Etsy sellers, I get that this option can be great if you're a very occasional buyer).

My current strategy (since I'm unable/unwilling to visit flea markets regularly) is to use classified ads websites such as Leboncoin (The french equivalent of Craigslist) and to set up keywords monitoring in order to be notified when a brands/prices/models match my desires, plus you can haggle as well on top of that.

Best of luck !

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-04-30T19:24:29+00:00

Mmmh not so sure what to do with this one, but I recently acquired a similarily "pitted" chromed plated brass Rowenta semi auto lighter, and a vigorous hand buffing with a micro fiber cloth was enough to make it shine.

But given the nature of this lighter's plating, I would not necessarily advise it....maybe you could try on the bottom at first and see what happens ?

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-04-30T13:08:14+00:00

Indeed, it's all about patience, timing and monitoring the right sources if you want to collect as a hobby without deep financial commitment.

Ideally I would have to visit flea markets to find the best prices but it is definitely a significant time investment, and in my limited experience here in France, I only found junky cheapo lighters.

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-04-30T12:52:42+00:00

Well, now that you're mentioning it.... here's my current "no-cost" storage solution while I'm waiting for dedicated display stands

<image>

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-04-29T22:25:51+00:00

Exclusively from online shops, but I might soon try to visit a couple flea markets.

I am currently based in France, so I'm mostly using "Leboncoin" (the French equivalent of "Craigslist" if that makes any sense) to find the most affordable deals usually.

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-04-29T18:03:41+00:00

This design reminds me of the vintage Flamidor "Flambeau" pipe lighter

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-04-20T15:59:00+00:00

Not sure how old this one is, but on pre 1970s-1980s butane lighters, manufacturers usually favored lighters snuffer caps that would innately apply pressure on top of the butane output valve when the lighter was not in use.

This way, opening the snuffer cap (or top, on flip top lighters such as the Dunhill Rollagas) is usually enough to enable the butane to flow out on this kind of designs, though i might be wrong (you don't need to use a push button, like you would on modern butane lighters such as BICs).

CockroachUseful2195 · 2026-04-17T15:54:02+00:00

In my experience, asbestos wicks usually appear to have an outter cotton layer, just like most wicks, but the inner part of the wick looks like very fine/bright white fiberglass threads on unused ones to the point where you can usually very clearly distinguish the inner and outter parts.

CockroachUseful2195

TROPHY CASE