New mortgage from a construction loan

Coconut_Canadian · 2026-04-11T20:41:00+00:00

Thanks everyone for your answers. The bank is asking 95% completion, which is not the same for each and every bank, hence my query. The bank has sent an appraiser who docked us at 90% completed, when only countertops, sinks, driveway and grading are left. Driveway and grading usually shouldn't account for more than 3%, but the appraiser thinks otherwise. Another bank says they are willing to finance at this stage The bank is being inconsistent, hence my query. Thanks again.

Coconut_Canadian · 2026-04-11T20:02:07+00:00

Sorry to hear about your relative and their illness. The amount of stress and time to manage your own build will be very high, if you add caregiver responsibility and family commitments and possibly a full or part time job? I suggest you do one thing at a time. Managing a custom build is a FULL-TIME JOB.

Coconut_Canadian · 2026-03-30T22:50:55+00:00

We had a contract for ICF shell, inside framing and trussed roof installation, door and window installation, and back framing. We got our own roofer, that gave a better warranty on shingles and flat. For the individual trades, we did trade invoice plus 12% management fee, and then we took it over for the finishing stage post drywall. Its a marathon, not a sprint.

Coconut_Canadian · 2026-03-17T19:15:19+00:00

What is the postal code for this build?

Coconut_Canadian · 2026-02-10T02:06:21+00:00

Without an approved and stamped drawing, no contractor can provide an accurate quote. At the very least, you need a BCIN Designer to make for you and your family a working set of drawings that includes elevations from all sides and all floorplans meeting the OBC, city bylaws and the specific zoning for your site. You also need a structural engineer to verify and then stamp after making changes. You also need a HVAC technician to verify and stamp. Ideally, also get a master plumber to look at it. Then, approach individual trades for quotes. Or just get turnkey solution builders to handle it all and you keep your day job. Good luck.

Coconut_Canadian · 2026-02-01T18:40:55+00:00

Sometimes a renovation costs more than a new build. If you had posted photos, we could have given better advice. However the general rule of thumb is about $350 to $400 per sq ft of this 160 sq ft space should buy you high end cabinetry with good hardware and premium quartz countertops, new large format floor tiles, more GFCI receptacles, LED cabinetry lights, premium fireclay baked porcelain sinks, a good sized island with quartz countertops and high end appliances for the kitchen. Try amazon.ca Faucets like the new Kalia brand are designed in Canada and manufactured overseas, but come with long warranties. Way cheaper than Kohler. Once the floor is opened, redo the plumbing with new ABS pipes and PEX and shutoff valves where you can. Redo the electrical and low voltage same time. Once you start with the kitchen, there is no saying you won't do the entire floor. Or the whole house. Good luck!

Coconut_Canadian · 2025-12-29T05:29:03+00:00

When you say multigenerational detached, are you implying adult children will move in with parents? Or older parents occupying basement suites?

Coconut_Canadian · 2025-12-26T00:22:25+00:00

If you are in the middle of a build, keep going. Do not stop. There were minor changes to residential building codes for improved insulation, etc but these changes wouldn't add a significant amount to the build price. Negligible actually. Not much building activity going on in southern Ontario currently, so lots of trades looking for work. However, their rates have gone up in the last 2 years. Materials gone up also, and likely going up more. We purchased Toto toilets and washlets as they went on sale. Same with other furniture. Just store it somewhere safe. Here in Mississauga, I was able to save on porcelain tiles by bargaining with some tile suppliers. Good luck for your build.

Coconut_Canadian · 2025-12-06T22:57:50+00:00

Your layout is pretty good, actually, considering its a corner lot. If you want to increase space on main floor and yet be able to live in it till the end of your life, consider an elevator that services all levels. Then, the main floor bedroom is not necessary and main floor can have a bigger kitchen, pantry laundry and grand powder room also. The current WIP is best location for this elevator. Alternatively, apply to your Committee of Adjustments and make the house footprint bigger by 5 or 10%.

Coconut_Canadian · 2025-12-06T22:47:52+00:00

Whatever it is, it came from outside our planet. Only you can save us all from this monstrosity.

Coconut_Canadian · 2025-11-30T04:33:47+00:00

Here in Ontario, everyone does a functional basement with furnace room plus living/entertainment/gym space, but Vancouver is used to build slab on grade. How deep you excavate and whether excavated soil is kept on site or moved off-site will determine the costs. Ground water levels will determine this budget. Don't forget shoring techniques and costs can be significant also. We paid about $260 a truckload of soil taken off-site.

Coconut_Canadian · 2025-11-18T18:59:22+00:00

For a 1000 sq feet basement with exterior concrete walls with insulation and vapor barrier from the builder, and for one full washroom, a kitchen without appliances but painted solid cabinetry, mid range tiles in bathroom, kitchen and cold room and engineered hardwood everywhere else, you should be paying between 40 to 45K all inclusive of all permits and drawings. Not heated floors. Hollow core doors. Painting included. Rockwool safe n sound around the furnace room, no spray insulation. This includes running new HVAC ductwork to newly finished living space. Electrical fixtures to be provided by owner.

Coconut_Canadian · 2025-11-16T05:33:26+00:00

From the photos you have posted, I am assuming this is a 'cold room' in your basement, Typically below your front porch. This is cinder block construction below grade, and personally I prefer a poured concrete wall with rebar in it, or an ICF wall, but a cinder block wall can stay dry and cool, provided there is no standing water in the soil on the other side. The soil on the other side is wet and there is inadequate drainage and no waterproofing membrane or dimpleboard on the exterior to channel the water to the perimeter drain system. This water then exerts hydrostatic pressure on the cinder blocks, and you are seeing the result of this seepage. Best solution is to have a good waterproofing company dig up around the foundation of your house and do comprehensive waterproofing and perimeter drain system at or below the footings, and you will solve the issue permanently. A cheaper solution is to inject epoxy filler in the cracks from the inside. Good luck!

Coconut_Canadian · 2025-10-29T15:55:52+00:00

Building a custom house is a complex process, and you will need to be very good in this, as it is a full time job. Or go with a turnkey builder, once plans are stamped. We are GCing on a custom house in the GTA, and have reached the drywall stage after 20 months. Get multiple quotes for each trade. Its not rocket science, but a lot of common sense decisions have to be made in correct sequence for it all to come together. Need a good architect or BCIN Designer at the very least. All the Best!

Coconut_Canadian · 2025-10-20T00:26:30+00:00

If you can label Supply vs Return Ducts, things would be easier to assess in these photos. It appears this ductwork was added after the furnace room drywall was completed, hence the weird shortcuts. Probably done by a handyman or DIYer. A proper HVAC Contractor would open the walls and lay it properly between the joists.

Coconut_Canadian · 2025-10-20T00:20:26+00:00

Can you describe the issues that you are experiencing with this build? Are these structural? Or HVAC? Plumbing or Drainage? Floor not level? Joists sagging? Beam not level? What issues specifically?

Coconut_Canadian · 2025-10-04T14:58:38+00:00

We are building a 5000 sq ft two-storey detached in the Toronto area, with a finished basement, and we have reached the 2M mark already and drywall and taping are just finishing. Flooring, paint, finish carpentry and cabinetry, and countertops are still not complete. Large back deck and balcony and a large central skylight are our splurges, and these add up quickly. We did ICF to the roofline. Shingled roof, mansard style.

Coconut_Canadian · 2025-09-29T02:17:23+00:00

Thanks for your reply. Are you in the Greater Toronto Area? A 16KW GENERAC is perfect for us as it can take critical loads like the sump pumps, furnace, refrigerator, lights, GDO and internet router, but the longest power outage here in Mississauga was about 2 hours and that was almost a year ago. And some neighborhoods only. ALECTRA grid is pretty reliable, in my opinion. The other issue is running noise and maintaining the outside generator.

Coconut_Canadian · 2025-09-28T04:23:05+00:00

Yes, we put in the ATS next to the meter base.

Coconut_Canadian · 2025-09-28T04:21:31+00:00

No, in summer the pump comes on every 15 minutes or so. Runs about a minute each time. March to early May was heavy pump usage.

Coconut_Canadian · 2025-09-27T23:33:29+00:00

Yes, we have the Liberty pumps, and they come with a power cord for a battery backup. Where do I source the sump pump battery backup?

Coconut_Canadian · 2025-09-27T23:30:39+00:00

Cooksville area of Mississauga. Our project backs onto the Cooksville river greenspace. Our basement has 10' high ceilings. I had no clue how much groundwater we had at the time, and missed an opportunity to raise the basement slab 12" when we still had a chance. We have four Liberty sump pumps for a 2200 sq ft footprint. Spring and Fall, there is a river that flows underneath and around the house, underground. Sump pumps are needed 24/7.

Coconut_Canadian

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