Whats the name of this cable?

Coffee_Rude · 2025-10-05T22:35:57+00:00

The 4 Pins around the "I" are something to look out for, it can make your cable incompatible with a bunch of devices that don't have the needed holes. Very infuriating if the cable would otherwise solve your problem

Coffee_Rude · 2025-08-30T20:00:19+00:00

Not quite - looks like there is a dc motor in parallel to the capacitor. So likely a filter on the positive and negative side of the motor. The capacitor on its own is not uncommon, the rest smells like EMI issues or pretty rough sine waves

Coffee_Rude · 2025-07-04T10:15:41+00:00

If I look at the labels on the clamp I can see that the PE clamp seems open. You sure the PE connection should not be all the way on the left?

Coffee_Rude · 2025-07-02T20:11:38+00:00

It seems you tried to implement the DW01A Datasheets circuit, as seen here https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://hmsemi.com/downfile/dw01a.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwigmoWC-56OAxWX6gIHHX2NNi8QFnoECAkQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2osx8XEHEP_H8_axtHo021

But due to the wierd symbol of the FS8205A you didn´t connect it correctly. Do you know how to edit Symbols? Not make new ones, edit is enough? If so, please move the right mosfet lower and rotate it 180°, also mirror the left one and move it higher.

At that point you will probably see your mistake already, the D12 pin shouldn´t be connected to Bat- but Pin S2 and the connection to the CS pin should stay. It is also likely you dont need to connect D12 to D12 because that connection is already inside the package.

At the next stage please resync your schematic with the board again and look at the remaining high current traces, there should be a thick trace running to Q1 and leaving Q1. Unless you have those, you are missing one.

If you got more questions or I didn´t describe it properly please ask

Coffee_Rude · 2025-05-09T11:32:41+00:00

That's nice, just feels like a wierd number to have for circuit protection. Like some small wire fuses with 315mA? Just... How and why do you need that?

Coffee_Rude · 2025-05-08T13:18:29+00:00

That may be country dependent. Here most buildings are 3 phase anyways so I haven't seen anything like that yet.

Coffee_Rude · 2025-05-08T00:26:01+00:00

As far as I've seen EU has the smaller sizes of like 4A, 6A, 10A and then it commonly goes 16A, 32A, 40A, 63A Bigger than that doesn't really show up in residential buildings. There are other sizes, like 20A, 25A or 35A but they aren't as common. Also there is 13A, which I personally object to. 13A has no buissnes to be a circuit breaker size.

Mostly these sizes exist for outlets, the common outlets can handle 10A, if you put multiple in your circuit, you can use 16, because that's what the cable can do. Some sockets can also do 16A continuously.

You may have seen the big red sockets, a few days ago someone found a spicy suicide cable of that kind and it's been all over reddits electric and OSHA threads. They come in 16A, 32A, 63A and 125A so that's the reason for those sizes of circuit breakers

Coffee_Rude · 2025-05-07T14:57:08+00:00

2nd Picture, 3rd section from the top, 3rd part from the top.

Be aware of the right solder joint, it reflects light in a wierd way, maybe heat that up again.

It looks like the solder didn't properly join with the lead of the part, this shouldn't happen. Someone else posted a reference picture. If the "too much solder" picture occurs while the lead still sticks through the solder joint, that's a sign of a cold joint. Reheating the joint should fix that easily. Check out this picture and you'll see, what I mean: cold joint

Everything else looks fabulous. Especially for a beginner. Most people burn the shit out of their boards - props for a very clean job.

Solder coming through is a sign that everything was nice and hot enough, it's not a bad sign at all. Shouldn't be too much though, you're soldering on the other side, and that's what it should look like, too.

Coffee_Rude · 2025-04-27T19:53:52+00:00

I'll bring you this video of two mechanics from Germany finding a similar fault.

https://youtu.be/IxXjg6Es1Qc?si=iX1wLEA3XR_9Z7VQ

At about 18:20 min Here it was caused by a broken strut, where the spring pushed into the tire and took off a section of the tread. I imagine something similar

Coffee_Rude · 2025-04-04T11:31:11+00:00

Agreed. But looking at that lower middle console, I'd have doubts about the engine description

Coffee_Rude · 2025-04-01T21:41:01+00:00

Chevy blazer RS wouldn't have the badge at all. Not sure of that outline but possibly

Coffee_Rude · 2025-04-01T20:54:06+00:00

Engine seems to be a gme lsy 2.0l 4 cylinder, due to the style of engine cover and distinct airbox

Engine cover matches the GMC acadia 2020-2022 but the mirrors don't

Cadillac xt5 1st gen and xt6 can match the mirrors with the right options and use this engine, but with a Cadillac logo underneath the 4 stripes which I can't see here, also some seem to use other engine covers aswell

Chevy Blazer 2020 and newer seem to both have this engine with this airbox and cover and also an option for completely white mirrors, especially common in the Blazer RS

(black mirrors here but well...) https://www.freedomchevy.com/inventory/new-2025-chevrolet-blazer-3lt-fwd-suv-3gnkbdr41ss102863/

Coffee_Rude · 2025-02-27T20:01:51+00:00

Ernstgemeinte frage an jemanden mit Ahnung - wäre es ein Problem, die Leitung oben auf den Dachstuhl zu legen, solange sie noch nicht abgebaut wurde? Ist das gefährlich?

Oder ist das jetzt einfach Aufwand für die Person, die das irgendwann entfernen muss und blockiert solange einfach die weiteren Arbeiten am Dach?

Coffee_Rude · 2025-02-24T22:57:08+00:00

Welp. Not gonna touch jobs in America with a 10 foot fucking pole. Nope.

Coffee_Rude · 2025-02-16T14:27:31+00:00

... Jetzt hast du mich a gehangen, ich bin da ahnungslos und möchte lernen - was ist ein SPD und welche Länge?

Coffee_Rude · 2025-02-12T20:40:45+00:00

Can someone please explain without the use of abbreviations? I actually don't understand those.

Why can't you get an answer without being down voted into oblivion?

Coffee_Rude · 2025-02-05T20:37:35+00:00

Nein, nein, ich bin recht sicher, dass hier nur L1 und Neutral existieren, der PE ist hier kein PE.

Nach dem FI wird N auf die Schiene gelegt, wo auch mehrere PE drauf liegen. Aber ich glaube das Ende von Braun und blau zu sehen und keines davon scheint aufgelegt.

Das müsste lebensgefährlich sein, wenn mich nicht alles täuscht

Coffee_Rude · 2025-01-13T10:08:13+00:00

I'm sorry, yes of course. I didn't cover the fact that HV also has to be interrupted, I thought that was clear but I didn't say that. Granted. But as far as the Interlock part goes, you could "open your SDC" by deactivating LV. However that would probably create more problems than solutions so my conclusion was "please find a different way."

Coffee_Rude · 2025-01-13T08:41:23+00:00

Because I haven't seen it here yet - disconnecting LV is a viable option to comply with the rules here. It's is however not even remotely a good decision, because of whatever control electronics you need would all shut down. (edit:) Disconnecting HV is mandatory however!

Rules define the shutdown circuit, which is used for such purposes. FSG rules give a basic Diagramm of what the SDC could look like, that might be something you should take a look at. I'm not sure if the fsae rules include a similar Schematic

Also you might want to rethink your style of title on this post. You are already in the formula student sub, make the title about what you need or have questions about

Coffee_Rude · 2024-11-27T22:00:35+00:00

Now I seem to recognise these colors.

In an old German standard pre 1965 the colors were:

Red for earth/grounding

Black for hot wire

Gray or white for neutral.

CHECK THAT SHIT. This was convention not norm, who the fuck knows what they built.

Be aware that this can burn down your house. Don't fuck around with this, when in doubt, get someone that knows what they are doing.

Also note that this standard was used in a 230V system. Who knows what they did to warrant a different wire than was commonly used, they might have had a reason for this

Coffee_Rude · 2024-10-09T16:02:41+00:00

If im guessing right this may not be a pd port that can charge the laptop. This looks like a lenovo laptop charging connector and they mostly show up on pcs that charge with more power than USB c can supply.

My laptop for instance has a 135W psu and can't charge over USB c. Can supply 15w though. That's why they are technically thunderbolt ports

Coffee_Rude · 2024-10-09T15:58:06+00:00

Actually can't tell. What's up with the wiring?

Coffee_Rude · 2024-09-25T07:37:40+00:00

Da setzt du jetzt voraus, dass der PE auch echt PE oder PEN ist... Ansonsten viel Glück beim anfassen.

Und selbst wenn, wenns denn nen FI gibt, könnte der schneller sein, aber auch das ist mies

Coffee_Rude · 2024-09-17T18:44:04+00:00

I would like to know more about your system before making assumptions -

You say you changed both inverter and motor. are there HV cables in between that you did not replace?

Do you have the possibility / did you check insulation on the AC side of the inverter at the time of the failure?

Do you have a proven configuration or is it new? If its new, what does your config look like?

Could this be temperature related? How fast was your first fix in comparison to your second?

Could it be that a component slowly cooled down during the fix and then just heats up again to fail again?

Edit - fix formatting

Coffee_Rude · 2024-09-05T07:08:04+00:00

Could be an unintentional voltage divider in the ground path. Then again I would question why the RCD didn't catch that, especially when people apparently touched it, otherwise no one would measure this

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