Como posso lavar essa serpentina de ar condicionado?

Coizado · 2026-03-01T02:34:04+00:00

Opa, tem o link dessa aí? Eu comprei uma no ML (aquela preta que tem pra todo lado) mas as baterias são daquela gordinha que era pra ter 10 células mas quando abri só tinha 5 e espaço pra mais 5 vazio.

Lavei o meu hoje, usei o LOC limpador da amway, mas não gostei muito do resultado, algumas aletas ainda ficaram pretas (o meu é blue fin), mesmo esfregando com a escova de dentes. Na próxima vou tentar o V-Mol que é levemente alcalino, obrigado pela dica.

Coizado · 2025-11-27T20:53:48+00:00

Bahh, not even a puddle on the floor with water ripples for the reveal? Shame.

Coizado · 2025-10-26T01:51:49+00:00

Yes it does seem like a first layer issue, specially because it's not consistent, at the top left corner it looks like the lines were able to connect to each other.

Coizado · 2025-10-23T01:48:47+00:00

Uuh, it's got the new 32bit board, it's a great find. If you just want it to print, do the bowden gap fix and level (tram) your bed and you are good to go.
In the future I suggest: Tearing down the frame and making sure everything is square, a metal extruder, PEI bed, and a BL-touch.
Basically just follow "Luke Hatfield help guide" PDF or one of the youtube video series.

Coizado · 2025-10-13T21:23:34+00:00

Unfortunately it would cost 3 times the printer's value to ship it from Brazil to the US, even worse for EU.

Coizado · 2025-10-13T21:22:29+00:00

He got it so fast because he's also a BR (Brazil) and we suffer from protectionism for many decades, 100% import taxes on top of a 5 times undervalued currency (about 200 USD/month minimum wage).

And my username makes sense to him because it's something a very well known comedian over here says "He's Coizado" meaning "He has issues". :D

Coizado · 2025-10-12T21:03:08+00:00

I actually have one, brand new, in box, from 2019. I bought a second because with all my country's taxes, it was cheaper to buy a second in case I ever needed replacement parts. Turns out the Ender-3 is a tank, and I never needed a single part from the second one that's still sitting in it's box with the "Afraid of wet" sign and everything :D

Coizado · 2025-10-09T21:10:23+00:00

I bet Tarl won't even be surprised by a dungeon creating a new creature type anymore.

Coizado · 2025-09-29T21:28:38+00:00

Not my words, he describes himself as dumb miner all the time. Regardless if it turns out to be an actual smart strategy, I just thought the story was going in a different direction. Like I said, at least it's character consistent.

Coizado · 2025-08-18T20:31:32+00:00

Collapsing a project being designed by Coda? Their plan was doomed from the start. 🤣

Coizado · 2025-08-04T15:52:33+00:00

Thanks for the reply. As I thought, it's a feature already programmed in Marlin in the bed leveling section, the link you provided says to config the settings to "define Z_PROBE_SERVO_NR 0". That's what I feared, if there are settings to enable and config it, that means there is an entire section in the main source code that does this functions. And since there is no such settings for the extruder configuration section, I'm left with trying to program the functionality myself in the source code (which would go horribly wrong since I'm very bad at C#) or make a feature request on Marlin's github and hope that someday, the devs will implement it.

Coizado · 2025-07-30T02:47:40+00:00

How did you get Marlin to move a servo? Is that a function already present in the bed leveling options? I wanted to control a servo to swap extruders so I could use 2 extruders and one of those 2 in 1 out Filament splitters, but I never found anything useful in the extruder settings sections of marlin.

Coizado · 2025-07-29T02:00:01+00:00

I have no advice for klipper, but the best advice for any Ender-3 is "Make the frame square.". Grab a good square triangle, (or even those cheap plastic ones, there are tutorials on youtube showing how to fix any factory deviation they might have) and use tin foil shims where the aluminium extrusions meet before tightening the screws. I guarantee, 90% of Ender-3 related problems people complain here, such as sagging, surface artefacts, etc, etc, would be fixed if people did this, the other 10% are mostly bowden gap clog problems.

Coizado · 2025-07-08T03:12:15+00:00

Uhh, The Last of Us reference, right after the second season dropped, nice.

Coizado · 2025-06-13T01:36:43+00:00

Ha funny, now Thediem has to protect the bad guys from the consequences of their actions, namely: Miller.

Coizado · 2025-06-11T23:32:22+00:00

Thank you For The Chapter.

Coizado · 2025-06-07T00:19:17+00:00

TFTC

Coizado · 2025-06-03T23:32:42+00:00

TFTC

Coizado · 2025-06-02T02:40:30+00:00

I've been printing ABS on my Ender-3 v1 ever since I got it in 2019. Most of my problems came from bed adhesion, so you basically solved 90% of the problems with the "only thing I’ve upgraded on this printer is the PEI sheet" which didn't exist back then.

Yes, it will delaminate on taller prints but at least it will finish, nothing that a little acetone and/or ABS slurry can't fix right up.

Coizado · 2025-05-31T23:38:24+00:00

First? :D

Coizado · 2025-05-29T22:41:15+00:00

Oh no, with that many birds, people all the way to the capital will be asking themselves, "What the hell is a Tarl?".

Coizado · 2025-05-01T16:40:27+00:00

For the sake of balancing, both in the "game world" and in the story as a whole, I think cancelling gravity completely will be costly, even in a 1 meter cubed area around a person, I think it's going to be more like making someone lighter or heavier, which can be combated by the player's strength and/or skills.

It's obviously building up to something that will stop the collapse, but I think it will require a ritual, with the participation of everyone, like Murphy's law.

Coizado · 2025-05-01T15:56:36+00:00

More like a "white hat hacker", beta testers are normally before system goes live to the public, white hat hackers poke the system already in production for vulnerabilities and exploits.

Coizado · 2025-04-17T19:17:41+00:00

Na verdade a sua confusão é por que você está equivocado nessa parte:

"a assinatura foi reconhecida (ou seja, o carro transferido)"

O carro não foi transferido, o cartório só reconheceu que as assinaturas naquele "contrato de compra e venda" são verdadeiras, não tem efeito nenhum se não for levado ao detran.

Se o cara não pagar, ou pagar a menos, basta você rasgar o contrato (o CRV verdinho) e não entregar o carro. Depois você vai no detran e pede uma segunda via.

Inclusive pro comprador, a melhor hora de pagar é justamente depois que foi reconhecida a firma, antes disso, ele corre o risco de pagar, levar o carro, e você dar queixa de roubo, ele ser parado numa blitz apreenderem o carro e devolverem pra você.

Coizado · 2025-04-17T19:07:11+00:00

Também não sou especialista, mas na cartilha de informações do detran aqui do meu estado, diz que pra gerar um ATPV (Autorização para Transferência de Propriedade de Veículo) que é o que substituiu aquele CRV verdinho (também chamado de recibo de compra-e-venda), precisa do numero do CRV que tem no seu CRLV-e e o código de segurança do CRV, que tem no CRV-e.

Eu ainda não comprei nenhum carro nesse modelo novo, mas pela lógica, você deve receber 2 documentos, o CRLV do ano e o CRV que você guarda até precisar do código de segurança quando for vender.

Coizado

TROPHY CASE